Here is a list of all the postings James Hill 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Thank you for your reply,
I understand what you mean by shrouding the wiring and not having things moving around. I put the pictures up to see if things would work the way I`d done it, ( and it has ), so , not having any experience of this, I`m quite pleased. I can progress further when the new prop arrives and am interested to see what the figures will be on a test in the bath. Once satisfied, I can then look to making things properly secure before going on the water.
Thank you for your suggestions which are duly noted,
Having looked at my set up again and looking at suggested connections in the meter leaflet I`m thinking , If I put a male spade connector on the Red wires of the meter and bullet connectors on the black wires, leaving out the fuse ( for test purposes ) , the esc is still in use. To me, that seems ok., or is there a simpler way?
I`ve arrived at the stage where I now have a watt meter to do some checking with, but I have a couple of questions to ask. In the lower picture I`ve shown the wires as they are in the boat. Having never used a watt meter before would I be right in thinking that the section with the fuse and switch in it is removed and replaced with the meter using Tamiya connectors? The other thing that occured is by doing that, I remove the switch to the ESC or does that not matter.? The two sets of wires on the meter are12 AWG. Would that need different connectors at all when coupling to the existing setup?
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction,
I`ve put three pictures on the album showing how things are situated in the model. As I said before, it needs tidying up, but at least I`ve had the prop turning, even though not for long. Still waiting the new one.
I had a look on google at Bushey Park. Looks very nice. At the moment a visit is a while away due to things being rather hectic at home at present.
Spending time knocking up a launch cradle to save bending the back!
Thanks for that Ashley. I think I`ve seen on videos that some of those meters were on board which was why I was unsure.
If I can ever manage to get your way I would certainly pay a visit.
Thank you Dave and Colin,
Dave , I`ve had a look at that link and that looks a nice piece of kit. I`ve downloaded the instructions as well. I take it this would be a permanent fixture in the boat or can it be swopped around? Sorry , I ask as I haven`t used one before. I need to do some tidying up of wires inside the hull. I left everything long at the moment to see how things went but it`s beginning to look like a vipers nest in there!
Colin, thank you for the mileage check. I`ll have look at the route.
Good morning Ashley and thank you for your reply,
Being away from modelling boats for so long meant I hadn`t realised all these bits and pieces for prop conversions could be had.
At the moment I`m waiting for a prop to arrive from the Prop Shop. I`ve dropped from 45mm to 37mm dia. as that was the smallest they did with a 3/16" dog drive that matched my system, so we`ll see how that fits.
The fuse that`s fitted is the same way you suggested and by Mtroniks. A bit cumbersome, but it`s all in there.
The next step is the bath test again and in the meantime I`ll look out for a wattmeter. I realise I`m going about things in a rather long winded way, simply step by step.
I live at Fleet and Basingstoke is about 10 miles or so from me, but if I end up in a real mess, I might take you up on your kind offer.
I`ve managed to post a few pictures of my T I D Tug that is now basically finished. I`ve finished hanging the tyres on the side and I`ve started to try and weather the boat.
As I said in an earlier blog, it`s powered by a 540 motor off a 6 volt lead acid battery. The gearbox I made myself (sorry, offhand I can`t remember the ratio ) .The prop is one I made and is 60mm, four blade but not sure of the pitch. The rudder and associated parts are all scratch built.
I built the boat from an MM plan and an article that was in a Model Boat magazine from 1974 but I`m not certain which month.
There was an article inside about the Tid Tug called " Cheap but not nasty " in which the author described how he built the model from various scrap bits and offcuts for a sum of six pounds if I remember correctly.
I`d love to find the magazine but so far no luck.
The original model was designed to take a 3.5cc diesel and I I`m sure that`s why the boat never got on the water as there was nowhere close I could sail it.
I then bought the prop with the intention of going electric ( possibly ). The problem I`ve now given myself is that the shaft is 3/16`` dia and I`ve made it with a dog drive which means there`s a lot of plain shaft at the stern. I`ve looked at carefully trying to cut a 4mm thread into it but I just think I`d end up with a bigger problem.
My next thought is to leave things as they are but get in touch with Mtroniks for a suggested change of ESC. If it runs like a canal barge then, as you say, I`ll have to start studying info on a brushless setup and that`s a whole new ball game for me. I`ll have another read of Mr Milbourn`s article.
The cockpit detail came from scaled down model aircraft decals, glued inside the rings and coated in varnish. The actual layout I copied as best I could from the boat itself.
Getting on the water is going to take longer than I thought and I`m certain I`ll be asking more questions if gets to brushless.
Forgot to mention. The model is 36ins long.
Sorry for the delay in answering, I had to go out this morning.
Malcolm, I understand what you were saying and I think the simplest thing to do, as you and Ray have suggested, is to reduce the prop size as a starting point and see how things progress.
Ray, thank you also for your similar suggestion. I weighed the boat just now with everything on board and it weighs in at 7.5 lbs, so it`s not quite a light weight. Apart from the boat itself, the next heavy bit is the battery, which is a 9.6 volt 5000mAh pack. The motor is a brushed Graupner 700Speed. I`ll have a look on the SLEC site for a prop. The prop I`ve just tried is a 43 mm plastic one by Octura. I`ve no idea what the pitch is. I bought it from a magazine advert back in the day without knowing anything about performance or power consumpton etc.
Your Cigarette looks the part. We used to go down to Swanage, on the cliff tops in the 1970`s, and watch the full size ones in the Cowes _Torquay- Cowes offshore races and they were impressive boats. Never saw Surfury race though, as it had stopped racing by then . I did go to the boat museum at Pitsea where it was on view , and took a load of photographs which I used when building the model.
Hi Ray, I put the fuse in on the advice of the Mtroniks advice sheet that came with the ESC.. In my ignorance would the 35X prop relate to diameter.? ( the current prop being the only one I`ve bought so far ) and I`m still learning things in that department as I go along.
Thanks for your suggestion,
I gave the boat a water test this evening with some success and some failure. Couldn`t see any leaks so that was the success.
The failure was under power, it managed to blow a ten amp fuse.... twice! so that terminated any more running.
Mtroniks suggested the fuse size so I am now looking at reducing the size of the prop.
Is there a way of working out an ideal size or is it a case of buying a smaller one and seeing what happens?
I have had the misfortune to break one of the battery connectors in my Acoms transmitter.. It`s one of the flat sprung tabs for the negative end of the battery. With a bit of luck, I`ve managed to solder a piece of nickel silver strip as a replacement which appears to working.
My question is, can you get replacement tabs anywhere or would that mean binning the controller for a new one.? I ask in case my repair doesn`t last very long!
I`ve not taken the transmitter apart so I don`t know how things are connected inside. Just thought I`d ask the question,
I`ve put the last three pictures in the album that I didn`t manage before.
In case anyone`s interested, the three crew members were originally from Tamiya formula one car kits from way back. The driver came from the J P S car , the navigator from the Tyrell kit and the engineer was given to me by a friend who knew I was looking for the one last figure. I don`t know his origins though.
Each of them has had major surgery on hands, legs, arms and in the case of the standing engineer, cut in half and re-shaped and stitched back together!!. I`m just finishing off his safety gear and deciding how I`m going to fix him down when we finally get to the water.
Thanks to a lot of help I finally managed to upload pictures. The error was totally my fault.
There are some patient people on this forum,
Thank you so much Colin for your time and patience and also Chris for your guidance.
I`m going to write those instructions down and keep them and then see what happens when I add the others.
I always thought it was me not getting it right,
Many thanks once again
OK, this is Colin posting as Jim. It is possible that the problem is that Jim has not made his album public for general viewing.. I have corrected this
To make the album public you can either tick the box when creating it or do so later by accessing the album for editing and clicking on Edit Info. Hope all is OK now.
The three images in Jims album are as follows:
Just had another go at uploading the pictures. I tried three this time.
I can get each to load in the browse box ok. I click upload pictures and the pictures are then in a vertical column with relative information to the right hand side. I then go to save changes and the album comes up showing as having three pictures. On clicking on the album picture it says , album can`t be found.
Could it be that I`m on windows 10 on my laptop? I`ve also checked to make sure there are no updates getting in the way.
Sorry this is becoming a bit of a saga.
I think the glitch is me! Your blog on how to upload pictures is easy enough to follow, I just think I`m being drawn into making the same mistake each time.
I`m going to try the suggestion made by Chris Fellows and see if that works.
Thank you for your message,
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