Here is a list of all the postings James Hill 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Now I realise what`s involved before doing this I shall be looking at fitting the rubbing strips round the hull and anything else on the hull so will need to be ordering some wood strips to suit. Plenty to do before I get round to glass clothing. It might be a bit warmer by then as well. Not having a heated garage would delay any drying process a bit.
Thanks once again,
Hi Ray, thanks for that information, I`ll look it all up on line.
Always handy if you can find something that lets you wash your brushes in water!
I read somewhere that it was wise to resin the inside of a planked hull before the deck goes on so that fits in with what you`ve said. I`ll just rub the hull down until I can get it looking presentable and go from there.
Dumb question but I take it 4-5 coats is cloth and resin.? How many would you suggest on the inside?
As usual, many thanks for your help,
I know nothing about glass clothing other than things I`ve read on here so I would be a complete novice but certainly willing to give it a go.
Any suggestions on what type to use, and the adhesive? I know De Luxe do a glass cloth . Would that be suitable? You suggest glass now. Even with all the pitfalls there are? How many layers of cloth would go on or is that down to the individual?
Sorry to fire so many questions but this is something new to try.
Finally managed to get all the first layer of planking on the hull ( all108 each side )and have put some pictures on the album, warts and all!
I have to say, some of it went on very well and some of it was, frankly, horrible! At the moment it`s had a bit of a rub down to highlight all the pitfalls , and there are many, so it all looks pretty rough. The pencil lines are showing where the rubbing strips went so that should eventually hide the change in angle. The lines on the hull at the stern are to show where the prop shafts will come through. I do like the shape of the hull with it`s many changes of angles as you go from bow to stern and this is where my next problem is coming from.
My original plan was to double plank ( and that still might happen ) but where I am at present shows the hull to be sturdy, and apart from the thinning of places with the rubbing down, would almost be enough. There are quite a few peaks and troughs over the length that will need filling to smooth the shape out and I`m wondering if when doing that I could use filler on the whole hull. If I second plank I will change the angle to something more suited to the shape, especially near the stern where the curves are tight. At least there will be a good gluing surface to work with.
My thanks to everyone whose given me help and advice since I joined the forum in the summer.
Hoping we can all manage the best Christmas we can under the circumstances.
Take care, Merry Christmas and a good New Year,
Just had a look at the diorama on Dave Coopers albums.
Very nice modelling Dave. As a railway modeller as well, I always like the mix between canals and railways. It can always produce some interesting combinations to model.
Got to the point on the first layer of planking where the hull changes from round bilge into a chine at the bow.
Having never done this before it`s been a question of how I can model the different angles required and I`ve settled on the method shown in the two pictures in the album. The small gap along the top is supposed to be vertical, the next level is also flat but angled down to meet the curve of the lower hull. At present I`m gluing in scrap pieces to give a gluing surface for the smaller pieces of planking. Luckily there is a rubbing strip that goes along the length of the boat at roughly the point where these joins take place so that will cover the joint.
Whether the way I`m doing this is good practice or not I don`t know, but hopefully it will look much better when the second planking takes place. I`ve been using Gorilla Glue as the adhesive and did a test piece to see if it would stick to the filler I`ve tried. ( Ronseal wood filler ) which it did.
Thanks for that. We have a Wilkos not far away so will have a look .
We have a Robert Dyas in Fleet so next time I`m there I`ll have a look to see if they have any.
I`m a fair way off cleaning up the first planking layer so there`s plenty of time yet but thank you for the information.
I don`t really have a problem with anything that has a smell as I`m out in the garage. The only problem now is it`s getting a bit chilly in the evenings!
Funnily enough I`ve set up a test piece this morning. I have a new tin of Ronseal wood filler in the garage I`m just seeing how the filler and Gorilla glue work together and try other combinations.
I can understand you wanting to keep the weight down on your launch. My boat in real life had a max speed of 25knots I believe, so for me speed isn`t a great requirement but, like everyone else, weight is a consideration not to be ignored.
Thanks for your reply,
Hi Dave and Ray,
I`ve found the Gorilla works well as well. I must admit I`ve not tried the other glues you both mentioned as I certainly haven`t been building boats that regularly.
Epoxy will certainly be used to seal round the prop shafts when the time comes.
When it comes to sanding and sealing, if something like P38 filler or similar is used, is there one adhesive that sticks to any filler that`s exposed better than another? I know it might sound a bit picky but it would be a blow if planks started to come adrift because they hadn`t stuck down properly.
As usual, thanks for your help,
Hi Dave, thank you for your suggestion.
I tried the card suggestion by Ray but found some of the gaps between stringers rather large, so to maintain the curve I went back to the method I used on Surfury, which was diagonal planking using the ply that I had. I know it`s a bit ott but as I had it I thought I might as well use it. As before, there will be a lot of filling and sanding down before the second layer goes on. I cut the planks 7mm wide as this seemed to be laying resonably well over the hull shape at 45 deg so there`s a lot more to put on yet. When I can get out in the garage I manage to put 4 to 6 planks in total at a time. I`ve used Gorrilla glue this time. I don`t know how this meets with your suggestion of a quality glue? Last time I used Cascamite.
I won`t have enough wood at present do the second layer so will need to order some more shortly. The one benefit I see in a thicker planking is it gives more of a chance of ironing out any blemishes, and I`ll have plenty of those!.
I`ll stick a couple of pictures on the album to give you a laugh at the effort so far.
Thanks for that. If he`s busy, then that`s fine by me. I know props are made as orders come in so I`m probably well down the line.
I had wondered if the bug had affected his work load but now I know he`s busy I`ll wait my turn.
Asking the question , " Has anyone had any dealings with the prop shop recently?"
I put in an order in early September knowing their delivery time was usually 4 to 6 weeks , which was fine. The payment was taken but since then I`ve not heard anything. Obviously my hope is that they have so much work on that there is an obvious delay but I sent an e-mail over a week ago with just a general enquiry, with no reply.
I just wondered if anyone else might know something. I`m not complaining , just curious. .
Hi Ray, I thought you`d give me an answer. I was trying to be a bit of a miser as I`ve got two good sheets of ply I could use, but maybe not.
I`ve got some card in the garage so I`ll cut a few strips and experiment.
The glass cloth method would be totally new to me so I would certainly be asking more questions. I believe DeLuxe do glass cloth. Seen it somewhere when checking their website for railway stuff.
Thanks as always for your advice,
Now that I`ve managed to fit all the stringers in, I`ve been looking at the best way to plank the hull.
I said in an earlier blog that I was considering double diagonal planking. Having rough tested some strips to see how they would lay, I`m not so sure. there seems to be quite a degree of twisting going on which doesn`t allow a plank to sit well. It tends to give a raised edge.
My problem is, although I`ve double planked a hull before, I`ve not done one where the chine of the bow changes to the round bilge of the stern. I don`t want to loose the shape at the bow and therefore I`m still looking at planking vertically, overlapping the joins on the second layer, but I don`t know if this is good practice, or not worth looking at.
I wondered if anyone with more experience than me could advise. Perhaps a roller to aid the curvature might help. I`m using 1/16" ply so its quite stiff once cut to a suitable length.
Thank you for the picture. Funnily enough ,I came across another picture of yours showing a similar set up while I was mooching through different places looking for information last night. I like the use of the pins from the plugs and I`ve got plenty of those in the garage!
It certainly looks a fairly easy setup to construct so I shall certainly give it a go. I`m going to make a card template of the rudder ( don`t have any measurements to go on so it will be by mark one eyeball from my picture ) to give me an idea of positioning.
Thank you for that information. I`m quite a long way from that point at the moment but am thinking ahead as to how it could be made so what you`ve said is very helpful.
Half the fun of this hobby is overcoming something not tried before, with valuable help from others.
A couple of pictures of slow progress this week. ( Why they loaded this way I don`t know, they were taken in landscape ).
One showing the approximate position of prop shaft , coupling and motor. The other picture is a picture of the stern of the boat I`m trying to build.
I`m going to make a card or plastic dummy rudders to work out the size and position of the rudder and the posts and servo position. Also got work out how make some sort of linkage to get them to work together. ( Not something I`ve done before ).
All but the last two bulkheads are glued in place. Need to check wether to cut anymore out of the middle of them. None of the stringers are glued in yet as I need to find a way of holding things down when it`s turned up the other way for fitting the stringers and then the planking. A bit of a puzzle
Once again, sorry about the pictures,
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