Here is a list of all the postings James Hill 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Not sure if they are are all Cigarette hulls or none of them. If they are, I just thought there was a different colour scheme.
Looking at the hull through a magnifying glass and a light,some of the paint is showing signs of slight crazing and the diagonal lines are where the plank edges are.
It could be that the paint across the plank joints has just separated and the joints are still ok. The boat was built in the 90`s so I don`t expect it to be perfect after all this time. I was just hoping to slow down any more movement before I manage to see how it runs.
I suppose I could re-paint over the Blue. I`d have to colour match it as the paint on there came from Woolworths household range! Midnight Blue I think.
I`ve taken some pictures of what I think are Cigarette boats from a 1990 Offshore Boat calender by Beken of Cowes and I`ll try and post them. I wish I`d kept the Daily Express newspapers of the time of the Cowes -Torquay races. Double center page spread with all the boat details. A big event at August bank holiday weekend.
Many thanks for your reply
I should also say, I enjoyed your article and plan on the Cigarette.
Tempting , if I manage to coplete the current one
Sorry , what I should have said was, I`m using the single part coating system from Bucks Composites and I wondered how long it would be before you could handle it again. ( A day or a week say )
I`ve encountered a bit of a problem on my Surfury as well. As it`s been in the garage for a while now, some of the planking joints are showing through the paint. Nothing really serious at the moment but my feeling is, that might change when it gets in the water. I was thinking maybe a couple of coats of varnish over the paint would seal it again but I don`t know if that`s good practice or not. I don`t really want to strip the old paint off if I can help it. I`ve taken a couple of pictures which I`ll put on later.
Better to try and rectify the problem now. Thanks for your reply.
Now that I`ve finally managed to sand my hull to a level I think might be acceptable for putting the glass cloth on, after application, what sort of drying time would I be looking at before handling and avoiding finger marks etc? The reason I ask is because room in the garage is a bit tight and I`d like to leave the hull to dry naturally without risk of being knocked.
I`ve bought the glass cloth from Bucks Composites with the one coat adhesive and they say , fully hardened in 4 weeks. I just wondered if it could be handled (with care ) before that? I`m going to wait until the weather warms up a bit before the cloth goes on and in the meantime am cutting the deck profile out and any other bits to fill in time, including a stand to sit it on.
Thanks for your answer. I remembered you telling me earlier about the water based resin and that will be my route, I just wasn`t sure about the sanding side of it all. There`s a fair bit of filler gone on already ( and a lot rubbed off ) so I`m pleased I`m heading in the right direction.
Thanks for the pointer on you-tube.I`ll look that up and see what I can learn. I take it I can glass cloth the inside of the hull but just leave it unpainted?
i`ve got Bucks Composites booked marked for when the time comes.
Many thanks once again,
Trying to plan ahead at present with the idea of using glass cloth on the hull, I`m interested in knowing how much sanding down needs to be done to get a smooth finish after applying it or does the cloth lay down fairly smoothly anyway?. At the moment I`m filling and sanding the hull to get as many blemishes out as I can before the cloth goes on but obviously they won`t all go so would it be correct to apply more than one layer of cloth?, having not attempted this before.
I realise it`s pretty thin material but just wondered how much lee way you had to use afterwards.
Hi Ray, nice to hear from you to.
The good thing about this hobby is most of it isn`t too heavy to manage although I wish I`d done some shifting of stuff in the garage before now, but there we go, It`ll get done in time.
I haven`t built a plastic kit for a long time, having spent years building ( or attempting to build ) the railway in the garage. Like most people, I`ve got kits still to build including an O gauge Black 5, so apart from the boat, there`s lots to do. But for now, the boat takes priority.
Best wishes , Jim.
Things have been a bit slow over the last month as,since last posting, I`ve been in hospital after having a heart attack.
At the moment I`m limited to nothing too strenuous so hopefully the modelling won`t be affected too much but I`m surprised at how much stamina is missing just now.
Anyway, trying to start catching up, I`ve made a couple of support posts for the end of the prop shafts. The base will be stuck to the hull with araldite and the uprights soldered to the prop shaft. On the actual boat the shafts were exposed and the uprights held the end bearing.
Hopefully when the weather warms up, I can get outside and carry on filling and sanding the hull.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
I`ve no experience of building a sailing boat so can`t help you but just wanted to say that that is a very nice looking boat which I think would make an excellent model.
The colours suit it as well.
Experts on here will tell you whether it`s a good choice.
|Thread: Cutting Plasticard Advice|
Chris- I agree with what David Marks has said and would add that you get yourself a cutting mat. They come in various sizes ,A4 for example and give you a good surface to cut on.
I`ve used Plasticard a lot when building structures on my railway and find it a very easy material to work with and I intend to use it on the boat I`m trying to build at the moment . The glue I use when gluing plasticard together is Slaters Mek Pak, but there are others,
Best of luck,
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I bought a pair of these props for the boat ( RH and LH ) and wondered if anyone has used this make before?
They are 35mm diameter, but I don`t know the pitch. It looks quite fine to me and I`m wondering how much thrust they would produce. They`re nicely made in brass coloured nylon.
|Thread: Steel hull|
There are model companies who do strips of rivet detail that can be used on steel bridges etc in the model railway world. I think they come on an adhesive backed strip. You might be able to adapt for your model. Try Google model rivet detail.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Good morning Ashley, Ray, Malcolm and Chris E,
Many thanks for your suggestions, each one very interesting. I`ll take a look to see if any can be adapted.
You`re correct when saying, the lower the shafts the better. I was just surprised when I saw how little room there was owing to the shape of the hull at that point. I thought of longer shafts but I don`t really want to go there.
When I get doing any filling on the hull, I`ll have to do it outside. I bought some p38 for later and forgot what a strong smell comes with it.
Thanks once again, I`m sure more questions will come,
Managed to put the holes through the hull today, (not very exciting I know ).
It looks like I`ll have to change the angle of the prop shafts slightly to be able to line up the motors accurately. The original angle left me with not being able to put something under the motors to hold them down, they were so close to the hull.
The only thing I might be able to do is find a different motor bracket, the ones I`m using are the quite heavy black plastic type.
Next job is to get some brass sheet to make the two rudders,settle on their position and then fit the shafts.
Thanks for that. I`ve studied your album quite a lot and noticed the single sheet over the hulls but thought I`d just ask about doing it in strips.
I thought the transom would have to be a separate piece so that`s clarified that.
I`ve had a look on line at different ways shown of using glass cloth but a lot seem to show mostly making a hull from a mold.
As usual, thank you for your help.
Just been reading the blog by Graham Jewitt regarding glass clothing a hull.
A question I`d like to ask is, can you cloth in strips or does it have to be layered as one sheet? My concern would be trying get round a shape that has varying curves in it and trying to avoid wrinkles or bubbles. Does layering in one sheet include the transom or is that best done separately? Should a wrinkle occur can they be sanded out very easily?
I ask all this as it`s something I`m considering at some point in the future and am just building information prior to eventually , possibly, trying. At the moment I have no experience.
I`d been studying your pictures of your Cullamix build and noticed the rubbing strakes on the hull. You`ve answered that thought now so I`ll leave them till later. I`ve been on line and found the Bucks Composite site so I`ll get in touch shortly.
My house is a mid terrace with an integral garage so warmth wise is not desperately cold unless it`s a really cold one outside. No heater, just me! It gets a lot warmer though if things go wrong!!
One thing I did notice on the resin, quite a long time hardening. Once coated, I`d need to find somewhere for things to dry.
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