Here is a list of all the postings James Hill 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Thanks for posting the pictures. The LED`s certainly show the interior very well and that`s a very nice model. As a railway modeller yourself, you would know all about small lighting systems for buildings etc, which is where I was going to look. Just a case of rigging something up.
Thanks for the information. It`s early days for me to try Lipo`s and brushless. I need to learn to walk with the current model set up before I start to run with the quicker things!
It`ll be interesting to see how the Cigarette goes with a brushless setup. I`m certain your grandsons will love it. If I put lights inside then I need to make a bit more detail as best I can, to make it more interesting. I can only see so much in the photo and the video.
Not an easy job deciding what to lose and what to keep especially after the effort made building them. A bit like sorting out a garage, then finding a week later you shouldn`t have got rid of this or that as you now need it.
I was thinking of trying to fit a light in the cabin as my photo shows one fairly large central light, so If I can, it would be worth trying to make something up and working it off a separate battery. Certainly worth looking into.
I`m looking forward to having a go at the Cigarette. You mentioned using a brushless motor ( which I don`t have at the moment ) just a couple of spare 540`s. Do you think that would work? ( obviously not as quick as a brushless )
If you read this, I just wanted to say that that is an impressive view of your loft. What a collection
I`m having enough trouble trying to find room for things in the garage with all the extra boat stuff. Maybe I need to down size the railway!
Boatwise , things are a bit fiddly at the moment. Because the cabin is fairly large I need to put things inside so I`ve been trying to make some of the equipment you can see in a photo I have. All unpainted just now. I then need to make four seats, possibly from mdf as they have a shape to them.Still looking for figures.
|Thread: Model Railways|
My dad started to build a 5" gauge GWR 0 6 0 tank called Speedy if I remember correctly' He got as far as a rolling chassis but then moved house and had to sell it as he had nowhere to be able to carry on with it. A great shame , as it would have been a nice model
I don`t know about you , but there`s something about working with metal.. Is Tich a runner?
Having had a long interest in railway modelling it was good to see some pictures of other people`s modelling., My first encounter with the hobby was in the late 1940`s when I saw a family friends tinplate ( probably O gauge ) layout on their drive outside. The noise when it ran was something I always remember.
There are some nice pictures on here. I thought the bonfires on the snow scene very effective.I have to agree that that is a great winter scene.
Like Richard, I`ve done a bit of weathering as well on some of my locos, but not all of them yet.
I have a layout based loosely on Camden shed (1B ) but it`s a fair way from completion. A couple of pictures of locos. The blue Duchess is 90% scratchbuilt in Nicklel Silver and brass. The streamline Duchess is a much modified Eames kit and is now works grey. The O gauge tender is part of a DJH Black Five kit.
Now I know there are others with a railway interest I `ll keep looking
|Thread: Returning modeller|
As you say, Toys `R` Us would have been a good source for figures, but, like many other things, no longer around.
I was lucky with the Surfury crew, they were originally F1 drivers in 1/12th Tamiya kits. Much modified people!
I`ve been following your current build. Coming along nicely..
We`ve got a few charity shops here in Fleet so I`ll be having a look through those to see if I can find some suitable figures.
The Pilot boat is 1/12th scale. Not a great deal left to build on it and then it`s a paint job. I need to source the correct orange for the cabin etc. I`ve got spraying equipment but I`m wondering about possibly brush painting. As a working boat it wouldn`t need a super yacht finish.
I f you read this, can I ask where you got your crew from in one of your gallery pictures? At the moment I`m just trying to work out what I can fit inside the cabin and I`d like put a couple of crew in there If possible. That`s a real assortment of loco`s in your picture, from early days to up to date with Tornado. It`s going to be interesting to see the next build from the Tornado builders when it is completed..... the P2.
Thank you gentlemen for your answers.
I`m afraid I confused the issue in the way I worded my question. The only wires I was to change were the two from the esc to the motor, basically to reverse direction. Sorry for the mix up.
I`m just pleased that with my lack of electrical knowledge I`ve managed to get things turning!
Many thanks once again,
After finally getting power on ( and answering my own question in the previous blog! ), I still have a question to ask.
Both motors are rotating the opposite way to the direction I wanted. I have the esc`s set up as master on the starboard one and slave on the port .
If I re wire the motors the other way round to get them rotating correctly, can I leave the lead with the red wire removed in the same place or would I have to swop that round as well?
I have to say ,I`m surprised at the motor speeds ( M Troniks 600`s ) and at themoment, it`s easy to get one motor running before the other on a small movement of the stick. Maybe a re check on motor /shaft alignment. If that turns out to be ok then I`ll wait until the boat finally gets in the water
I haven`t weighed the model yet but it seems quite heavy me.
I was looking through your gallery pictures the other day and saw the one of your Auster Arrow. A lot of the older prop models do make into great fliers.
The nearest suitable flying site for gliders for me would be the top of Butser hill, just off the A3 ( M ) on the way to Portsmouth, about a 45 min drive from my place.
You`re right. I can imagine that 1/16" X 1/16" does test your patience now and again, but it all looks good when it all comes together.
I`m just finishing off wiring the boat up at the moment. Am I right in thinking that when you switch things on, you are in effect programming the master esc and the slave basically follows instructions, (after wiring everything up correctly ) or have i got that wrong? As a two motor system is new to me I just thought I`d ask while I was on here.
Hope the Arrow goes well when it`s finished.
As we `ve deviated slightly from the norm and people spoke about aircraft models, this is mine, not yet built.
Now back to the boats.
Nice looking models. Will they be electric power? It`s a long time since I built a flying model. My first attempt was a Hawker Hunter made from 1/8th and 1/16th balsa sheet, silhouette body and drawing pins for balance weights at the nose!! It flew very well and I had a lot of fun with it.
Hi Richard and Ray, Thank you for the information.
Certainly some of the pieces of equipment are getting much smaller these days.
In my inexperience Ray, I went for two motors and two esc`s ( more costly I know ) simply for power control rather than steering as some do.
I realise the need to remove the Red wire on the slave esc. Everything is on a dry run at the moment to see where it fits and works!
Still detailing ( as best I can ) . Making the handrails are the next challenge.Need to make some jigs to get the bends right.
I`d like to put some simple detail in the cabin if I can , so need to look out for figures and make a couple of seats for them plus the helm and a few things to represent some of the equipment inside the cabin.
Which aircraft are you building Ray? It`s good to have a change now and again.
While I`ve been trying to sort out the positioning of the electrics in the current build, a couple of questions regarding positioning of the ESC`s and the receiver have me wondering.
Is there a hard and fast rule regarding where the ESC`s go in relation to the motors or other bits of kit with regards to possible interference?
I notice on the receiver that it has a very short aerial. Is it required to have the end of the aerial above the deck line or will it still perform down in the hull?
i`ve not used a 2.4Ghz system before so thought i`d ask the questions before going too far.
I`m using two M troniks motors and ESC`s so I want to get the layout as neat as I can.
I`ve still got my copy of Vic Smeeds book from way back when I first started looking at modelling a boat Another one was by Phillip Connolly.
My first attempt was a kit called Sea Commander if I remember rightly. It ended up a bit of a disaster owing to total lack of experience in working with wood. I remember instructions saying, to get the curve on the hull you could steam the wood. With modern adhesives etc , how things have changed
It did get completed but I never managed to find suitable electrics.
Further to the question I asked in my last post, as the hull is already covered with glass cloth ( and was rubbed down before the cloth went on ) I take it I can still use a sealer over the cloth without damaging anything. All this is asked as I`ve never used glass cloth before. I haven`t done so yet, but I assume you cloth the deck as well?
Thanks for your help,
Thankyou gentlemen for your suggestions.
A couple of the pictures of the boat that I have were taken when it was out of the water on props which helps.
My question was about wether to paint the hull first or mark out before painting and you`ve answered that. Any marking would only be done with everything on board. Be interesting to see how it compares to the real thing.
Ray, your use of balsa wood is tempting me to try it in the future.
I`ve not yet quite reached the point of painting the boat but a thought occured regarding marking the waterline on the hull.
Would it be normal practice to float in the bath before painting to get an idea as to where the line would be, or do you wait till the hull is painted? The other two boats I have were fairly easy to mark but I think this one needs a bit more care taken.
Just a thought,
They look a decent connector and I noticed they have pos and neg markings on them as well so will give them a go.
Thanks once again,
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