Here is a list of all the postings Paul Freshney has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: airbrush question|
There was some useful guidance here
|Thread: Peter Miles - RIP|
Forum users from North London may remember Peter Miles previously of Broomfield MBC and more recently of Fishers Green SC Model Boat Section.
He sadly passed away just before Christmas after a short illness. He had been active in my club (FGSC) until the Spring of 2019. He built some interesting model boats including a working r/c stern-wheeler and was a regular at our pond. He liked to include figures where possible on his models. In spite of walking with the aid of a stick, he preferred to manage putting his models into, and out of the the water, on his own and was always cheerful even when it became clear he was no longer well.
Rip - Peter.
|Thread: Three motors, three ESCs, on one channel using one battery|
You did not say if you are intending using BRUSHED or BRUSHLESS motors, a question Ashley has asked.
If using BRUSHED:
Then, as a thought, if all 3 escs are being controlled by one channel and supplied by one battery, why not use just one esc to control all 3 motors? Obviously the esc needs to be rated such that it can cope with all 3 motors at maximum power drain, but that simplifies it all. All you need to do is split the esc's output leads to the three motors.
I have always, with twin BRUSHED motors used just one esc, the advantage being that both motors stop and start at the same time. With two (or three) esc's, inevitably because of micro electronic manufacturing differences, they will all perform slightly differently, usually at low speed.
With BRUSHLESS motors:
You are into a different ball-game but as the other guys have said you can do it - My Aveley on another thread on this forum has a photo of its insides with two BRUSHLESS controllers connected to one channel and both supplied by the same battery. If it had three shafts I would have done the same.
Hope this helps
Happy Boxing Day and New Year!
|Thread: Airbrush Kit|
The link to the Bambi compressor in my earlier posting does not seem to work.
It is not cheap at around £400, but mine has run faultlessly for 6 years now and for many, many hours and it is easy to drain the tank. As it can 'compress' easily to 115psi safely, that means there is plenty of air for blowing away dust and pumping up car tyres!
For what it is worth:
I use, and have used for many years, A Badger Crescendo 175 Double Action Airbrush fitted with the largest nozzle/jet and needle it comes with. That is the only needle/jet/nozzle I have ever used with Humbrol paints. For a compressor I currently use a Bambi Oil Free Piston Compressor:
Actually, my version is the previous example but it has been 100% reliable for 6 years and I do a lot of spray painting. It is not totally silent, but very, very quiet. There are alternatives in the range which are based around the refrigerator silent type. This compressor sits in the corner of my workshop. It does not run continuously as the tank holds enough pressurised air for up to 5 mins or so of continuous painting.
The compressor outlet is connected via a hose under my workbench to a second regulator and water trap on the right side of the bench (I am right handed) which has a Y outlet. This enables a ‘blow gun’ to be attached as well as the airbrush. Pressure at this regulator is normally set to 30psi, which drops to around 25psi when the airbrush is in use. The blow gun clears any dust away.
There is a high-volume extractor to the outside fitted in the ceiling similar to what you would have in a shower room. I am fortunate, in that Bedroom 4 and its adjacent shower room sit behind my garage and of course this bedroom is actually my 10 x 8ft workshop.
The extractor is of this type:
Humbrol Enamels are sprayed at 1:1, using standard white spirit. The synthetic quick drying thinners are ok, but on large items, e.g. a hull, the paint at one end will be dry before you get to the other, whereas with white spirit the drying process is a bit slower. Ideally one wants everything ‘wet’ at the same time for a decent even finish.
A face mask is essential, as is a jacket of some sort. For the jacket I use a white pharmacist type coat and for a mask I use a Gerson-9000E-Series-Respirator.
I use Halfords aerosol Plastic Primer for priming everything except fine metal parts.
I replace the mask’s pre-filters after each major spraying project – such as my recent HMS Aveley.
When in ‘painting’ mode the benches are covered with newspaper, and a vertical board put behind the spray area on the bench. I ‘water’ the paper before spraying as this ‘lays’ any residual dust or overspray that is not extracted.
When the job is done, I clean the tools and exit the workshop. If the painting job has gone wrong which sometimes it does, it is fatal to try to remedy it whilst the paint is wet.
Anyway, this is what I do, it works for me and has worked well for many years as others may testify who know my models.
I wish you well.
|Thread: HMS Aveley|
Here are three photos of HMS Aveley on the water on Sunday 1st December. It is built as in the 1950's.
The two 300KV brushless motors running on a 7.4v LiPo give a slightly over-scale top speed at full throttle which is fine by me and they are controllable down to watching the propellers literally just slowly 'clicking' over,
Only 13% of the 4000mAh 7.4v LiPo capacity was used during 80 mins of constant sailing.
Apart from some sundry ex-military tyres to be added to the deck as ready-use fenders, that is it. These tyres are being 3D printed by Shapeways from their stock range just now. The over the counter rubber versions tend to be a bit toy-like once you get down to around 1 inch diameter (= 35 inches in full-size).
A fellow club member queried the size of the rowing boat - it is 14 feet long in scale terms and near-enough matches the one on the plan size for size. It is a slightly modified resin casting from Quaycraft via Cornwall Model Boats. I have discovered on Shapeways there are some 3D printed rowing boats in various scales inc. 1/35, but they are somewhat more expensive.
The obvious compromise is the cable supports for the two derricks behind the superstructure. On full-size they were rigid tubular beams set into the top of the superstructure. Mine are thin cord and hooks as access to the interior is needed for charging and general checking of the mechanics and therefore the superstructure needs to come-off from time to time.
On the whole I am pleased with it and HMS Aveley makes a change from HDML's and torpedo boats and at just under 36 inches long it is a handy and manageable size, something we all have to think about if we are getting older....
Next project will be a workboat catamaran.
|Thread: Ton class minesweeper|
Yes, Colin is 100% correct.
Humbrol Satin Grey No.127 is a very good match for post-WW2 RN warships. HMS Aveley in another thread on this forum is painted in that colour and she was of course of the same era as the Ton Class which likewise had wooden hulls, except HMS Wilton built later of GRP.
HMS Aveley''s grey is actually dry-brushed over the base colour with Grey No. 27 to highlight edges/wear etc plus the rear portion either side was usually part-covered with soot but i didn't have the nerve to do that. That is why some of these inshore craft had black hulls later in their service lives.
The only snag is you cannot buy large tins of the Humbrol colour but I buy mine in boxes of six direct from Humbrol (Hornby) so you receive them all of the same batch.
|Thread: HMS Aveley|
As mentioned earlier -
Andy Pardew has a website.
He will take commissions but does have another job. i understand he is 3D printing (for himself) a scale r/c model battleship's superstructure.
He uses a different plastic from that of Shapeways, although the end result when painted is much the same.
Mark Hawkins has a huge range via Shapeways and if you go into their website, provided you choose the right search words, other designer's products can be found.
For example, obtaining RB Models miniature shackles is virtually impossible at the moment even from model military vehicle manufacturers, but via Shapeways you can obtain 3D printed tiny versions. Okay, not load-bearing like brass ones, but if just being featured on a model for effect they are perfectly okay and relatively inexpensive.
Ron Rees had a 3D article in MB some years ago - I am not sure when but 4<5 years ago is about right I think.
I use Mark Hawkins, an experienced and excellent model boat builder in his own right to create the necessary files for Shapeways to print. HJe is able to do what would take me weeks of fiddling about in a matter of days.
All the Aveley (and my previous model (HMS Bicester) 3D parts are on his website in various scales.
In my club is a guy, Alan Pardew of Waypoint Models, who also does 3D printing of fittings, but he has a full-time job so is not able to undertake major design work quickly, but his Carley Floats are excellent.
Edited By Colin Bishop on 14/11/2019 10:36:55
And a bit more to add to what Colin put up. The deck is single diagonal planked over a sub-deck and is correct according to photos of the original. The davits are also 3D printed, the drawings and my measurements being converted by Mark Hawkins into a 3D printable file for Shapeways.The rubber dinghies are 3D printed by Waypoint who adjusted the size to match my requirements. They could equally have been Carley Floats, but these look better.
HMS Aveley still needs a ‘canvas’ windbreak around the stanchions on top of the superstructure – I have bought the material for this on my way home from Eastbourne this afternoon after visiting mum. The material purchased is similar to that used for BECC flags.
The Bofors 40mm is correctly scaled – photos of the full-size vessel show that it was indeed somewhat large for the hull. Handrails through the deck edge stanchions are 0.4mm clear fishing line, painted with a black permanent marker before installation. The motors are Cosmo – bought via Engel Submarines more than a year ago but are ‘360’ size (28mm dia.), about 30 Euros each, three times more powerful than the old huge geared Decaperms of year’s past and minute in size comparison. The figures are from an Italeri 1:35 Vosper accessory pack, slightly modified. They are ok as this warship was in service in the mid-1950’s when duffel coats and woolly hats were still in vogue. In summary, you don’t see these 1950’s Ley and Ham Class Mine Sweepers and Hunters on the water very often, the only other one I have seen was HMS Portchester with a black hull a few years’ ago.
Dave – you ask about telemetry.
The telemetry facility is built into the Spektrum DX8 transmitter and the ‘Orange’ receiver from Hobby King has all the required ports. You can buy the necessary leads/electronic gizmos for rpm measuring and current drawn from the same source or Spektrum itself (but much more expensive). The battery voltage is measured via a simple lead in parallel with the battery power leads connected direct to the receiver. The Orange full-range receivers and sundries all work 100% okay with Spektrum in my experience.
|Thread: Resin or not to resin, that is the question?|
Personally I don't like any totally sealed compartment, be it in a hull or superstructure unit. You can guarantee that sooner or later damp or even oil will get into it, even though it is 'sealed' from the outside. Then you have the annoying 'slosh' of liquid inside and no obvious way out. Therefore, there are no totally sealed compartments anywhere on my models, and if of wood, the interior is painted or 'resined'. Having said that, Glynn Guest always leaves his balsa hulls unpainted on their insides, but leaves the hulls 'open' with the superstructures off after a sailing session to dry out if needs be.
Even full-size ships can have problem. Do you remember when HMS illustrious had to be emergency dry-docked because the sealed chamber that allowed filtered seawater into the hull for drawing up into the cooling system was itself leaking into the engine room because the welds had failed. This was a 'sealed' chamber working in reverse.
Buoyancy? Yes polystyrene foam within a hull is a good idea, or even balloons and cut-up swimming floats, if you sail on rough water or there are kamikaze skippers also sailing on your lake! On the other hand, if you build hulls from foam covered resin as does Ron Rees, then the model will float regardless of which way up it is!
|Thread: New Edda Flora full kit from Germany|
It is rare nowadays for really unusual but superlative kits to come on to the market, but this should be one, albeit not cheap, but there again quality never is and Edda Flora is an unusual subject.
Total cost with drive units etc, is likely to be of the order of 2000 Euros, but I know one of my Fishers Green MBC members has already ordered one - not me I hasten to add!
Judging by their Police Boat Hecht WSP 30/V20 which has stainless steel etched parts and (only!) costs 425 Euros without the extras and which another Fishers Green member has already, the quality will be outstanding.
Edited By Colin Bishop on 24/09/2018 21:17:39
|Thread: Naval Museum Madrid|
Yes, we thought Cartagena was one of those vastly under-estimated destinations. Our cruise ship only went there because there had been a cock-up with going to Cagliari when Cunard discovered the proposed berth was too shallow for the limits of the ship!
The town centre is nice and the cafes very, very reasonable and there is lots of Civil War history with the citadel and underground facilities etc. Tom Sheridan's Port Guide is/was far more useful than any official guide. He does guides for lots of other port
The Naval and Submarine Museum in Cartagena (Spain) is good as well. Free, at least when we went 2 years ago, well laid out with information in English as well as Spanish. The submarine section has models from the inception of the Spanish Submarine Service to present day and numerous artefacts.
Decent toilets as well and all positioned just by the harbour at the foot of the main shopping street and close to the cruise terminal. Adjacent is the naval base just round the corner.
Cartagena was one of the main bases for the anti-Franco faction in the 1930’s Civil War.
|Thread: Binding Orange to Spektrum|
I did not mention that babysitting for our daughter and her partner (they went to a pop concert at the Eden Project last night) for Mrs F and myself, involves a 276 mile drive to Plymouth from Essex and the same to come back....
WRT Spektrum - my DX8 and Dx7 date from late-2010 and mid-2012 respectively. The price now is near enough the same as it was then, which says something about the cost of electronics.The benefit of their having a screen, is that if the binding fails, it says so on that screen and you can also visually see the binding process. Anyway, they have been fine for me, and both had LiPo packs installed early in 2017 to replace the old NiMH packs.
Cheers & good luck (!)
I am currently not at home, away at our daughter’s, but I think your description of how you see your Orange Rx is correct.
With regard to a receiver, obviously a Spektrum original branded one should always work, but the cheapest is now c£30 or so.
If all else fails, then Al’s Hobbies are now the UK agent for Spektrum and offer a service facility I understand.
A couple of other thoughts:
The Tx and Rx actually will sometimes NOT bind if too close together on the bench. A metre or so apart is best, and the same applies when switching on at the pond side, that is assuming you have got it all working ok at home!
Batteries? If you have flashing lights on the Tx and Rx, then I would guess they are okay.
Finally, I stopped using the oblong orange receivers with a very short aerial (I only paid £4!) because they were/are park flyer, ie relatively short range. Currently I am using the orange 6 channel telemetry enabled receivers in two hulls because at £17.70 each from HobbyKing they are a third of the price of the genuine Spektrum version, one of which came with the Dx8 Tx, These Orange £17.70 receivers have two quite long aerials and are described as ‘full range’.
Very finally, my experience with r/c is that it is handy either to have two of everything, OR to have a friend with the same brand of system, because you can then compare the two to find the fault. For example, you currently don’t know for sure if the Tx or Rx is at fault, even though as you say, the Tx is making all the right light signals/noises and it is probably therefore a receiver problem.
Cheers for now - back to baby sittting...
I have had no problems whatsover binding a current manufactured Orange receiver to a Spektrum dx6, dx7 or dx8 Tx and have 3 in current use.
I stress the word ‘current’. The current Orange receivers will only work with DSM2 & DSMX protocols, which is the current operating system for Spektrum radios. Older radios, perhaps 5+ years old, were DSM and the newer (current) receivers will not work with the older system and vice-versa.
So, I would suggest you first check that both the receiver and Tx are the same protocol and that will be clear from the specification label on the receiver and the Tx manual/ front/rear cover.
I would also assume you have plugged in the binding plug to the receiver as nothing will happen if that is missing. It has to go in the bind socket and I had one really cheap orange receiver bought from the back of van (yes!) that had the label on back to front.
Finally, if I remember correctly, some early version 1 orange receivers had a button you needed to push, to also facilitate the binding process,
If the answers to the above bring no luck, then I have no idea what is wrong - sorry.
|Thread: Futaba 6ex|
One other thought and that is that perhaps the previous owner physically fiddled around inside the Tx and plugged one of the dual axis stick pots into a different socket. Most current Tx’s inside have the stick pots physically plugged into their relevant sockets on the main board inside the Tx body. Thiinking back, I deliberately ‘confused’ a Multiplex Cockpit Tx by physically moving a stick pot connection - this was (for me) much easier than fiddling around with mixes etc to achieve what I wanted some years ago. So maybe, just maybe, it is a physical problem and not electronic, particularly as you have already ‘reset’.
Anyway, just a thought.
If you have the instructions, there will almost certainly somewhere be a reset facility that puts it back to ex-factory.
Then you can start from scratch with setting it up as you want.
If you do not have the printed instructions, then they will almost certainly be online somewhere.
Edited By Paul Freshney on 07/06/2018 21:50:28
Edited By Paul Freshney on 07/06/2018 21:51:44
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