Here is a list of all the postings Paul T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tug s rus|
Great photos, as you work from photos how do you manage to get the scale so exact, its a skill that I could never master.
Most of my boats are scratch built (except the lifeboat)I find it more of a challange to scratch build.
Thanks for the e mail.
|Thread: Site Content (Good or Bad)|
I find myself spending more and more time on this site and I have to say I am enjoying it very much as it is becoming a superb window onto the boat modeling world.
The site gives me a broard and unbaised view of what is happening out in the real world with comments from real "hands on" model makers.
I have had on line conversations with some very nice people and picked up some very good advice.
I think this site is very good and I have no doubt that it will get even better as it develops.
So, as far as I am concerned, its a big well done and thanks to Vinnie and his team
|Thread: I have always scratch built my models|
No problem with helping I just don't want to "overkill" with to much information as I do enjoy writing about model boating.
My wife and I are currently building two tugs, both are scratch built, one from plans and one straight out of my head.
As this is Janes first build she chose a TID tug (tiddler) for which we had a Vic Smeed plan on CD but when we looked on the internet we found lots of information including full plans.
Jane decided that the model should be 3ft long and so with a little messing about on the computer we produced a 1:1 plan (36 sheets of A4 that had to be glued together) which gave all the templates required to start building.
As I said this is Janes first build and neither of us are computer experts but so far she has managed to produce a very decent set of plans and building has begun and apart from a little guidance she has done it all on her own.
As Jane said if she can do it then anybody could.
Sorry I seem to have banged on a little and I hope I've not put you off, If I can help any further please let me know.
All the best
The Fat Controller
There is lots of advice to be had on scratch building but a lot of it depends upon what type of boat you wish to build and how complicated (or not) you want the build to be.
So the first thing to do is decide what type of boat you want to build then decide what scale to wish to work in (or have a rough idea of how big you want the model to be)and finally decide on which material you would prefer to work with i.e. timber, card, plastic.
These are the first steps in my scratch build process.
|Thread: Find out about a boat|
I am not at all sure what this model is, in some respects it looks like a copy of an early chris craft constellation especially if the hatch on the foredeck if scaled from full size.
But then again I am probably miles off.
I have found that using brass rod for the rails and split pins for the posts can make great railings, as the rod and pins come in different guages you can cover most scales.
You can solder the joints if you wish but you can also use superglue,the brass is easy to bend especially if you use a former such as a coin,a piece of tube or even the shaft of a house key.
|Thread: Now what?|
I know what it is like to see a grandsons face light up it's the best feeling in the world.
I have a simple question, what do you want from a hobby in model boating?
Do you want the challange of the build or the joy of sailing with your grandson, the answer to this question will dictate what sort of model you buy.
Paul is right about joining a club it could be good fun for both you and your grandson
|Thread: Find out about a boat|
This is a mystery and I wonder exactly what model you do have, it would be very helpful to see some photos or if you bought it off e bay then the listing number so that we can all have a look.
Once identified it should be no problem to locate some plans so that you can finish it off.
As for engines I agree with Tomo and would advise that you fit electric, again once we know what the model is we will be able to advise which motor/battery combo would be best.
|Thread: Painting Problems|
This sounds like a glue problem and I would say that Peters(HS 93)diagnosis is perfect and his advice on painting is well worth following.
My only other thought is to look at the vac forming itself within the plastic parts, has this process produced "dishing" in the mouldings which might only become to light when painted.
|Thread: Huntsman 31|
Thanks for the kind words,
Tigger is quite a sight when she is on the water but I have to thank my wife for the paint job as Jane is far more artistic than I am.
The engine was a squeeze and is actually fitted backwards (the drive shaft points to the bow)and the propshaft is belt driven.
A problem is that the increased weight of this large engine means that the model sits lower in the water than it should and only looks good when moving forward so I am thinking of building a 6ft version to put this engine into.
Try www.faireyowners.co.uk this site is full of great information from how the full size boats were built to photos of members boats, and better still photos of the boats in their racing heyday.
This should give you lots of ideas.
You could also try looking for Fairey Huntsman images on google or another search engine.
Just watch the spelling as I have written Fairy in the past and got some very odd results.
I have a few photos of my Huntsmen but I have a problem with my files so I can't extract them yet but when I have it sorted I will post a few on the Gallery section.
How is your boat powered?
|During the heyday of the Huntsman (1960s) they came in mainly blue and white with varnished decks and transoms but quite a few that were entered in off shore races were painted all white although as we entered the 70s colours became much more "individual".|
I have 2 huntsmen one is a 3ft version which is finished in traditional white & blue, but the second one is a 4ft all timber version which is finished in the long forgotten racing colours of Tigger 2 which are orange, black and white and it looks just like a leaping tiger (it looks great blasting down the lake)
So finishing colours are very much upto the individual and it all depends upon what you want.
Hope this helps.
Gosh what an honour, I will do my best.
|Thread: Trent Class Lifeboat|
I also thought of making the trent with a removable roof as I had seen one done like this at a show, however it makes the cabin weaker (on an already very fragile model) so I decided against it.
I did fully fit and detail the interior to the daft point of putting LEDs in the computer/radar monitor as its quite nice to look through the windows and see the complete detail.
I had to tidy up the parts that were supplied before painting and fitting.
The Titanic is something that I have wanted to do since I was a boy, I might post some photos if the model comes up to scratch (if you will pardon the pun)
All the best
|To the oddball e mailer who asked where the crane is, Perhaps a little more understanding about RNLI boats might help, this is a Trent and not a Severn class lifeboat and yes the rivet count is correct and the orange colour is exactly the right shade.|
|Thread: Trent Class Lifeboat|
Bend it around some standard size formers (like washers or ten pence pieces or even rivets for tight bends)
Most brass rod will bend quite tight without heating, but if you have to heat it just warm it a little bit dont let it get bright red or it will melt as soon as you have heated it quench it straight away in cold water then it will bend better.
I am building a scratch built 18ft model of the titanic, I know it sounds daft but the bigger you go the more easy the build (but my shed is full)
|I also had the same problem so I changed to brass rod which is easy to bend when heated and won't snap like the alloy. Hope this is of some help|
|I never expected to be asked any questions about my models and I really appreciate all the kind words.|
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