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Member postings for gecon

Here is a list of all the postings gecon has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Propeller shaft lubrication
12/12/2020 09:44:34

I've been thinking again, sorry.

In the 'hints & tips' section, Glynn Guest writes about prop-shaft lubrication. The article is not dated so I was wondering if perhaps oil -as opposed to grease- in the sterntube is no longer 'politically correct' ?

Oil will surely gradually leak out of the sterntube and cause a rainbow-coloured wake astern?

Last winter I bought (together with the Comtesse kit) a tube of dedicated sterntube grease from Krick Ro-Marin. The only boat I've had in the water in recent years is the Comtesse yacht launched this summer so -as usual- I have little experience with this.

When applying the grease to the feed tube with a syringe it does not seem to accept much grease. Perhaps it should be applied while the shaft is turning at low speed?

The drive line has been so little used that it's probably not even been slightly warm so I consider it impossible for any lubricant to have 'left the building'. The grease used is what was recommended in the kit instructions but obviously KRICK grease would be recommended in a KRICK kit. There no info about operating temperature.

In view of the low temperatures involved -low water temp and low speed/short periods of motor use, is it perhaps better to use a thick motoroil?

Or can just I forget about the lubrication issue -due to low temp and short periods of motoring etc and just use the grease as sterntube water-proofing?

Any (inuendo-freesmiley) tips/ideas appreciated. Replies need only be simple : Use the grease. Use the oil or even 'Get a life'! Thanks in advance,


Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
08/12/2020 17:26:57

Doing assorted 'dry run' assembling of cabin tops, masts and other parts. Quite time consuming but, necessary in order to get all the bits adjusted before painting and further assembly. Again, lack of experience reduces efficiency considerably. Masts have to unstepped each time as the yacht does not 'live' out in the hallway any more but in a store room where there is not sufficient height under the shelving to have the masts stepped! This will be remedied later on in the build when the rigging MUST be able to stay in place after the triatic back-stay is tensioned. New plan for the shelving is sent in to the Admiralty buildings dep't for approval.


Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
06/12/2020 07:55:25
Posted by neil howard-pritchard on 05/12/2020 13:17:18:

hi george,

i heat small items like that on my gas cooker hob.

heat the brass wire or rod depending on thickness to a cherry red, and as you progress along the wire just let it cool naturally.

if you quench it in cold water it goes brittle and could break when bent.

been called a lot worse than that lol

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 05/12/2020 13:22:45

Thanks Neil, I would probably have tried cooling it down quickly in watercrying. Then I would 'google it' to find out what went wrong! I'll have to find a safe way of getting it hot gas in the flat....camping stove maybe?

I wasn't suggesting that YOU were H-P sauce -just that your smart "modellers licence" could be refered to as such.

Anyway, I'll stop the sauce-chat before the 'inuendo police' get out of bed laugh

Thanks again,


05/12/2020 08:13:09

Nice loops Neil! I needed this info when bending a loop (almost round) for the helm/wheel on my Fisher.

A bit late now to fix that, but for future info' how hot does the brass wire need to be to anneal it? Does it need to be cooled quickly after heating?

We all need to 'apply' a bit of modellers licence now and then. Specially if we want to incorporate a bit of gear we like from a previous age. Or to find an excuse for an anomaly in the build.

You could perhaps call your own 'modellers licence' for H-P (Howard-Pritchard) sauce? Spices up your life -and boat.....sorry, I'll log out now... But will note with interest how to anneal brass wire if you wish to advise.


Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
05/12/2020 05:57:59

I've been 'logged out' -in more ways than one- recently. After a lay-off while getting my daughter's car through the MOT I've had trouble getting into a 'building rhythm'. Instead of building, I've been reading most of the threads and info' on the forum! Plus there's been a bit of Xmas planning and shopping with the bank-robber's mask in place.

My part of Norway has no 'lock-down' so we can get out and about a bit -but we steer out of everybody elses 'wake turbulance', 'bow wave' and 'frontal spray'. Usually a good idea even in non-viral times! 20201130_172535.jpg

Anyway, I've managed to cut the strange wonkey parallelogram -or is it trapezium?- type frames and openings for the wheelhouse forward windows. In the process I've noticed that the forward roof overhang 'brim' of the wheelhouse roof was not long enough. An extra 1cm has now been added to that and needs to be faired in and glued to the rest.

I hope to get the all three removeable roof panels sanded, sealed and painted before Xmas. Some kind of hatch-latch arrangement will be installed to hold them on board during 'fast cornering'!

While waiting for paint to dry, I hope to start on the wheelhouse interior 'furninshings'.

I won't get much done hanging around here though......stay safe!


Thread: Colin Archer 1:15 scale
25/11/2020 07:48:30

As mentioned on the 'soapbox' I've ended up with another Colin Archer model. Not because I think it's so great but merely that -for me- it seems to tick all the boxes. Now that I've done so much on the scratch build Fisher, I'm no longer afraid of a kit with scanty instructions. At least all parts are already there! -contra drawing them on a piece of wood and cutting them out.

Buying the same kit again when the first one has only just been started on as a bit 'nuts' but, after looking around for another build and considering the prices here in Norway buying an abandoned, not-started kit is value for money AND environmentally freindly! There are several different CA models in the RS1 size of 46' so there is room for variations in the next kit.

For me, the Colin Archer is the right size, can take a wave or two, can sail in a breeze, can motor in 'no breeze', fit's in the car (just) and is not too heavy to lug around.

This kit has existed for many years so I expect that there no members here who are interested in a build log on it. I intend to complete the Fisher 34 build log but I won't be 'nagging the forum' with the Colin Archer kit build. If anyone wants to ask, I am of course I'm keen to tell what I learn from the build...if I can remember!


Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
24/11/2020 06:44:06

Looking really beautifull Chris, very impressive indeed.

I think the oil and varnish combination you are using is the equivalant to the Norwegian treatments I applied to the Fisher decks....long time soaking in and drying but is repells water 100%.


Thread: What happened here?
23/11/2020 15:04:55

I'm not quite sure how it happened but, while browsing the web 2 days ago there was an old yacht kit for sale at £130. The new price of the equivalent kit here in Norway is £750. Should I have 'turned the page' and left well alone?

It was only 20 minutes drive from my flat so off I went. I could see from the photo on the web that the box had been stored for years -and maybe even been a bit 'damp' at some point.

I have bought another Colin Archer RS1 kit crook. It's a lifeboat damn-it, abandoned and left to it's own devices. I had to rescue it!

There is a little mildew on the sailcloth which I have treated with a good dose of 7% white vinegar. The paper drafts and the woodwork smell a bit 'fusty' so I have sprayed all with Cavicide which is a 'surface cleaning antibac'. It should kill the mildew causing the niffy smell.

The hull on this model is ready formed (ABS crook) so the problem of cutting/shaping/sanding 24 frames and then planking them is elliminated thumbs up. Nearly all the parts are laser cut. What's the problem?

I can hardly bare thinking about what I've done so I had to confess, sorry.

By the way, the Billing Boats kit Colin Archer is a model of 'RS1' = rescue ship nr.1 built in 1893. It was later named "Colin Archer" -after the designer.

This new (fusty/old) kit will be built as RS14 = rescue ship nr.14 built in 1901, which was named "Stavanger". RS14 is 1' longer than RS1. Don't know why yet, hope it' just the bowsprit!

The RS1 is still in comission as a training ship / tall ships races etc. The RS14 is on land at the Colin Archer museum in Larvik, eastern Norway.

I'll go away now...


Thread: FREE Bespoke Model of WWII HMS Diamond
20/11/2020 10:32:13

I think he's on his way allready.paddle battleship 48d035bae1b3e78554de708bb08fc094.jpg

Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
19/11/2020 15:35:15

Found out that the wheelhouse roof needs to be fitted (removeable) before shaping the wheelhouse forward window surrounds.

Note the clingfilm Ray!


Thread: FREE Bespoke Model of WWII HMS Diamond
15/11/2020 15:47:55

The Graupner HMS Prince of Wales looks low on the waterline on Youtube so bulb keel would be too much weight. Perhaps a transperent plastic fin would help. The PoW costs £1200 here so I doubt that it will be crossing the doorstep in my lifetime!

Back to the 'drawing bord'.


Thread: Tempted by a big Fairey
15/11/2020 15:39:02

Easy to understand his enthusiasm! The Swordsman and Huntsman hulls perform fantastically so no need to hold back on the superlatives there. I bought a used Swordsman 33" (?) with a 3.5cc diesel in Hong Kong (donkey's years ago!) and that was great fun. Very reponsive -especially with 'non-propo' OS reed R/C.

I was going to start talking about my old Sea Queen err, female head of UK , but decided not to go down that road again.

I'm on the lookout for something not too labour-intensive eg. the afore mentioned FairWAYS MarineTrawler 38.


Thread: FREE Bespoke Model of WWII HMS Diamond
15/11/2020 14:16:19

Hi Ashley, I have followed with interest your revitalisation of HMS Diamond. Very impressive work -and looks majestic on the water.

Now that you have sailed her, can I ask if there is much "rock & roll" under power?

I note that she's 6' long. What's the new displacement?

Most of the navy ships I see on YouTube seem to 'rock' quite a bit, making them look rather unrealistic. ie. The Graupner ready-mades... HMS Prince of Wales, HMS Hood, HMS Belfast and also the Billing Danish navy Absalon seem to rock a lot.

Maybe a bulb keel is called for?

As you have already noticed, I have started looking at "vessels without a sail". But I don't want a new 'labour-intensive' project.


Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
15/11/2020 07:49:10

The current collection of painted parts (sorry) have now been epoxied in place on deck. I feel that a period of relative calm will prevail over the build for some while -probably until after Xmas.

The production of the 3-section wheelhouse front windows and 2-section roof will slow down the build as will the 3-section cabin roof. Have not decided how to produce any of this yet. Rooftops need to be removeable and watertight.



Thread: Tempted by a big Fairey
15/11/2020 07:18:17

I thought "soapbox" was "for general chat about anything". Anyway, I hope I did not offend anyone. I've read worse (better) on this forum and it wasn't even on "soapbox".

To avoid any further problems with the written word, I have decided to stay with my 'brand', FairWAYS Marine.

FairWAYS built the original Fishers and they also produced the "Trawler 38". Built about a dozen of them I think. The Trawler 38 looked a bit like a Fisher but, with a sharper bow, square stern, very short mast and a small block of flats where the wheelhouse should be. Mine will be about 100cm X 30cm x 35cm.

No problems with trying to make it plane either. With a brushed 600 and 7.2v it probably won't even move.

Stepping down from my soapbox and wishing all a pleasant, fairLy innuendo-free, Sunday,


14/11/2020 07:26:29
Posted by Dave Milbourn on 13/11/2020 12:09:30:

I would avoid any and all kits which were produced after the Precedent brand was taken over by Anglian Models. They were terrible. In particular the ply parts were die-crunched from worn-out tooling and consequently nothing fitted - gaps of 6mm were not uncommon. If that example you've seen was smothered in filler then I'm not surprised. Naturally your sailing waters would be a bit too much for a 24" model so I would suggest you either buy a new 1/8 scale SLEC kit or wait until a better example comes onto the market. Frankly I wouldn't pay £100 for an old and shabby model unless it had at least £100-worth of useable radio/running gear in it which I could use elsewhere.

Dave M

Thanks Dave, I promise that I won't even look at the shabby Fairey again. I mean who needs a shabby Fairey? Or even a shabby fairy!smiley



Edited By gecon on 14/11/2020 07:26:57

14/11/2020 07:22:19
Posted by Chris Fellows on 13/11/2020 10:47:55:

Hi George

Precedent also did a 1:11 scale at 34" version which would be ideal, in both timber and GRP hulls, which come up from time to time.

Or do as I'm doing, scratch build one at 1:12, 31". There are plans available though I drew my own to suit my method of building.


Hi Chris,

Another scratch build will result in an eviction order from the Admiralty......and I don't think I would even want to live with myself in a 'scratch-building' flat. Too much mess! Ready-made fibreglass hull sounds OK though I could accept the rest of the building process. Still got a Colin Archer (plastic) hull in the cellar store to focus on though.


Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
14/11/2020 07:01:49

Hi Ray,

The short answer is a quote from the waiter 'Manuel' in Faulty Towers...."I know nauauthing".

The explanation is probably that the excessive pre-preparation of parts is due to NO experience at scratch building a boat. I have to make one part at a time in a sort-of logical sequence because I have little idea how the subsequent part/s are to be made in the first place!

The pre-painting is probably because I don't know which paint is going to give the required result. I had a lot of trouble earlier with the hull finish quality. The inexpensive full size boat paint I used did not flow out well at all so I ended up sanding it all down and airbrushing -which I also knew naught about!.

The components of the wheelhouse and cabin sides have now been painted using a well known quality Norwegian paint called 'Bengalack'. This idea came up when I saw that a chap in east Norway use it on his Colin Archer hull. It was smooth and (a bit too) glossy. It gives however the look of a fibreglass finish -even when brushed on- and that's what's needed on the Fisher.

I cannot see how this particular type of boat could be easily treated with sanding sealer, undercoat, sanding down all the surfaces -and corners- with all the 'boxes' ready assembled on deck. The required masking off would be a headache I suspect.

The next Fisher -which I will not be building- could have been a lot easiersmiley

I'm sorry, but I'm terrible with giving a short answer. I used to be able to say "Roger" and "Copied" but I'm over that now!



Edited By gecon on 14/11/2020 07:08:22

13/11/2020 13:23:53

20201113_133507.jpgIt seemed a good idea at the time but.... this morning I started having doubts about using the ready made Cap Maquettes plastic window frames on the cabin sides. Having strategically placed all the parts on deck I took some photos to help assess the 'look' of the finished article. Looks a bit cheesey with the Admiralty and I looking -simultaneously- out the windows on both sides of the yacht. I don't think the frames look TOO bad,20201113_133535.jpg but not too good either!

I liked however the idea of not making more hoIes than necessary in the cabin sides. Might just scrap this plan though and start again by cutting out the rectangles and 'framing' them in silver strip as with the wheelhouse. Maybe just recess the plastic frames (complete with cheesey photos) just inside the window cut-outs.

Deliberations will be completed before the Bristol Cream appetiser appears in early evening.

Wish all a peaceful and safe weekend,


Thread: Tempted by a big Fairey
13/11/2020 05:14:30

Hi Dave,

yes I did look at the SLEC "Fairey's" couple of days ago. 1/16 scale is a little small for my environment in Norway. There are no dedicated 'boating ponds' available -as there are natural lakes everywhere! These lakes have usually waves to the equivalent scale of a force 6 -except when they're frozen! Models need to be around the 1 metre size -and have a bit of displacement so they don't bob about like a champagne cork.

I do however acknowledge that boats around 120cm are not so easy to lug around. Particularily if there's also a 160cm mast -or two- on deck! I owned a 46" Sea Queen with a 22cc Ohlson petrol engine -donkey's years ago. But then I was young and keen AND living in the UK.

It may well be that 1-metre yachts with a lot of weight well below the waterline are best suited to my environment.


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