Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
My current diorama ("High Water" has a canal, narrow boat and lock in progress.
It also features a rope-worked incline to take the boat's cargo up to an adjoining goods yard. Plans are afoot to get the incline working - DPDT switch installed, pulleys and motors tested. Drive mechanism yet to do...
I'll organise a photo or two when things are a little more advanced.
Thanks for the video on the sub' - a very talented modeller indeed. I note from the box art that the scale is 1/700. From memory, I think the Revell "Nimitz" a/c carrier is to this scale. Another diorama idea perhaps.
Your crane and load looks really impressive. I think Airfix (of old) did some tank engine kits which should give a 'bare framework' that is without motor /chassis but with wheels etc. which may be of use on your diorama. Another possibility is to pick up a 'non-runner' at one of the model shows or auction sites. I picked up several of mine this way (one for £5). Sometimes all they need is a new set of brushes and a clean up of the commutator.
Yes, I agree - space is an important consideration. My current 'diorama' is a working railway based on a mix of standard and narrow gauge scales (00 and 009) ie 4mm: foot or, 1/76. It's approx. 4' by 18" in size and spends most of its time propped up against a garage wall when not in use.
The actual detail work - making buildings, kits etc. is done indoors where it's nice and warm ! This is on a table-top about 3' 6" x 2' 0". So, I think this will probably fix the outer limits of my first ship-borne attempt.
Will let you know how the ideas develop...
Very inspirational photos and ideas created in your work...
Would that be the Airfix dockside crane by any chance ? If so, I expect the loco, wagon and lorry are '00 gauge' - 1/76 or similar ?
I think, so far, I may have two ways to go :-
1. Sub' + 'Mother ship' (eg Hospital /Supply etc). In this case, they would both have to be in similar scales to "look right". I'll look at the Revell U-boat as you suggest.
2. Mixed scene of railway and marine rather like yours. One idea could be the lake ferry /railway as in the WW2 film (Heroes of Telemark ?) where the wagons are actually run onto the boat - docked so as to hold the rails in alignment. More scope here I feel as scale matching not so important.
Good luck with your competition.
It seems that (kit-wise) most of the 'big stuff' falls in the 1/400, 1/500 or 1/600 scale areas.
I haven't researched the subs yet, but, I think a ship model of around 12-15" length overall would make a nice diorama size.
Cheers for now,
In these cold winter days, I'm mainly reduced to indoor pursuits. I was just thinking about a possible model boat diorama though...
Available supporting pieces are in the following scales : 1/72, 1/43 and 4mm:1 foot (model railway).
I'd be interested to hear of any other scenes being modelled.
I'm wondering about a sub' just surfacing - perhaps nearing a supply or hospital ship.
Merry Christmas all
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I used Rustins sanding sealer and 'standard' model aircraft (clear) dope from the model shop - both were past their 'sell-by' date but it didn't seem to matter.
I also used a little P38 in places without problems. As mine is a fast launch, I was trying to keep the weight down where possible. (Filler can get quite heavy if used in excess).
This is probably one of those areas where everyone has their own favourite methods....if in doubt, make up some test pieces and try out different combinations...
Regarding the glue - I've not tried "Gorilla" myself but have heard good things about it - particularly strength-wise.
My personal favourite wood glue is "Tightbond Original". There may have to be some additional hull water-proofing (I used sanding sealer followed by model aircraft 'dope', then aerosol paint . So far, no leak problems despite the inevitable beginner's crashes !
Do a good float test in the bath /pool before going to big water. I also used 2-pack epoxy where the prop shaft and rudder post penetrates the hull (inside and out).
Coming back to your planking - I used a mix of 1/64 and 1/32 ply on my little RAF launch.
When used as a 'double-biax' - that is an "X" lamination with a good quality glue - it is massively strong. (It's how they made the full-size 70 foot launches after all).
Ray's glassing suggestion is well worth considering though as this makes the whole hull much more 'ding-proof'.
|Thread: help - 1/250 scale Yamato|
Just a few thoughts :
For a beginner to RC boats (like me), it may be best to keep things simple eg single motor /ESC /single commercial rudder.
I don't know how you're planning to operate the model, but at 'harbour' speeds the rudder(s) may not be all that effective - so, going "multi-motor" gives extra steering assistance.
Build a simple balsa kit boat first to gain RC experience before going scale ???
Most importantly, have fun !
ps For suitable kits, I'm sure the experts on the forum can advise you better then me
|Thread: 1:24 RRS Discovery|
When trying to trace leaks, I have in the past used the old trick of a drop of washing-up liquid placed, selectively, and one at a time inside the hull. Then a little warm water and, perhaps, gentle heat from a hair dryer along the outside of the test area. Watch for soap bubbles inside...
I think in your case, I would start with the prop' shaft and rudder areas first, then move onto the hull planking. This is if you want to preserve the structure "as is". Failing this, then re-glassing looks like the best bet as the experts have already suggested.
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Just sent you a pm (thanks for any help !)
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I've not used a twin rudder set-up myself, but, the way I've seen others do it is to couple them together using an adjustable linkage - a threaded rod with ball links (or similar), to allow for them to be aligned. This linkage spans the two cranks at the top of each rudder post.
The steering servo then moves one rudder (via the same crank arm as above) then the other rudder will move in unison.
You can adjust the relative movement 'gearing' (servo-to-rudder) by choosing the appropriate holes on the two crank arms.
I expect one of the others will have a photo of this as the mechanism is really simple once seen.
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Sounds great Neil - I'll certainly look out for one.
Neil : That tool looks very useful indeed - I'll look out for one. I bet you need a good pair of protective gloves just in case...
Ray : Yes, a Myford would be great. I don't have space for a free-standing one, but, a bench model could work if they do one. I'll do a bit more research on the Warco's and Clarke's as well.
Shame we can't get to shows and auction houses at present to gauge wear etc on used equipment....roll on the C19 vaccine !
Thanks for the reply David.
For the T45 tube, the 'critical' dimension is the i/d. It's actually 5mm wall as supplied from the stockholders. Inside this will be the EN14 (for the bearing registers), so I have a bit of wiggle room there.
The question is really relating to the capability of the mini-lathe type chuck's capacity. I have a feeling I will have to buy the next size up of lathe though to be able to machine this lot. Ideally, I'd like to stay with a bench-size model as workshop space is tight..
Good point about the tube o/d and i/d not being concentric - I hadn't thought of that ! Currently, I'm leaning toward the "Warco" range (on the recommendation of a friend), so will try to get some info' on mandrels etc. from their tech support desk.
Some parts I need to machine :-
1. T45 tube 60.3mm with the i/d turned to about 52mm
2. EN14 bar 55mm with the o/d an interference fit in 1. above and bored to take deep-groove bearings with tolerance 0 to -0.01mm
3. 300M bar - diamond (or similar) tipped tooling required ?
Hardly model boat stuff but relevant for lathe /chuck sizes that I need to buy soon. The lathe will also be used for model boat /engineering as well. Any guidance on chucks, faceplates, mandrels etc will be helpful...
Ray, (and other engineers) are you there ?
You could do a lot worse than have a look at Jerry Rosa's videos on Youtube. (Rosa String Works).
He's a guitar /Mandolin /Violin /Double-bass etc luthier and uses a lot of wood cut from his own farm using a variety of power saws, sanding and thicknessing kit that he's built and modified himself.
Although he's based in the 'States you can email him with sensible questions and I know he works with very thin wood sections during his day-to-day life. This will include all types of soft and hard woods...
Good luck with your projects,
|Thread: Caldercraft PCF Swift boat|
If you want to sell /trade your boats I would post up a few photos - there may just be a market for them.
You'll need to setup an "Album" first then, upload the photos to the album. After that, you can include them in the normal 'posting' windows (such as this) using the little camera icon - next to the "Smiley".
I'm sure the others will help with setting up the album if you get stuck...
|Thread: wood breaking|
There is a bit of a fight going on here with the wood on the inside of the bend being in compression (squeezing) and that on the outside being in tension (stretching).
Guitar makers (aka Luthiers) use something called "Kerfing". If you look on the inside of an acoustic guitar this forms the 'shelf' that the top and bottom pieces are mounted on. It consists of partially sawn through slots that allow the wood to follow quite tight curves. Bob Abell's photo gives the general idea.
With 0.8mm thickness though the cuts would have to be very shallow. I would practice getting the depth and spacing right on a piece of scrap wood first. Then try heat /steam possibly with a weight on one end to ease the ply into shape. Patience is needed with Ashley's boiling saucepan approach but it does work (at least, I've used this method with hard(ish) balsa thicker than 0.8mm.
Good luck with your project.
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