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Member postings for Dave Cooper 6

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Battery life
05/05/2021 22:40:04

Hi Brian

Looks like you're on the right road ( / lake).

Keep on 'trucking'...and, enjoy your build,


Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
04/05/2021 13:41:34

Work has begun on the 100% frames, 1 thro' 5. As I'm 'hand-fretting', have decided to bolt the frame halves together to shape identical port and starboard profiles.

100% half-frames in development.jpg

04/05/2021 13:37:05

Nearly there with the 50% mock-up. Frames 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 have been re-profiled and re-sized.

50% mock-up nearing completion.jpg

Thread: Trying to identify my boat?
03/05/2021 15:24:57

A few further thoughts :

1. Aluminium does corrode, although it is different from 'ferrous' metal corrosion. My experience is based on Fleet Air Arm aircraft operating in salt water environments and on racing cars of the 60's and 70's era with aluminium monocoques (similar to a metal boat hull actually).

2. The corrosion is a sort of white-ish /grey appearance. In the navy, we used "yellow chromate" to treat and protect. Best to watch out for dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic) too. You can use "Di-chromate Paste" to form a good separating layer. An application here would be a steel fitting passing through an aluminium plate for instance.

3. For a patch panel repair, have a look at "Lumiweld". It is rather like 'low-tech brazing' and has had very good reviews (although I've yet to use it....). If you Google the name, the UK supplier should come up and they do a hobby-style kit with instructions.


Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
02/05/2021 10:49:29

Hi Malcolm

Yes, it's the old linear-to-area-to-volume game.

I did suggest a removable keel to him (as he can't lift the boat without a car jack and ramps), but, he thinks they look "ugly".

I think they can be made to look acceptable - if properly engineered. (I intend using one as opposed to 100% on-board ballast). Anyway, it'll be underwater so, unless you're a scuba diver....!



01/05/2021 17:32:35

Build progress :

Just finishing some amendments to the stern frames (7, 8, and 9). This has necessitated a revised transom /rudder on the 50% mock-up.

First five half-frames in progress at 100%. Mainly using the re-profiled 50% starboard side ones as templates.

Made contact with an on-line colleague in Oz who has nearly completed a 56" pilot cutter. He reported that he had far too much hull displacement and now wishes he'd gone for a lower displacement design...(he needs a trolley to move it around and to launch it !).

Hopefully, some progress photos tomorrow.

Regards to all,

Dave C

Thread: Identification
01/05/2021 15:32:16

I can't help thinking it looks a bit "J2" (ish) ?

Old school America's Cup anyone...


01/05/2021 10:33:29


Welcome to the forum.

Maybe the emblem on the transom gives a clue ?

Some careful cleaning perhaps...


Thread: How to calculate the scale of my model boat...?
30/04/2021 16:38:45

Yes, Ashley's scraping method sounds like the way to go.

You may need to go easy in places though as you could go straight through ! I would do a couple of test patches first, then come back to us with some more photos. (It may just be brass-plated steel or similar...)


29/04/2021 19:14:29

Michael - do you know what metal the hull is made from - steel, aluminium, brass etc. - this should point you in the direction of a repair scheme...?

I would start looking at the more obvious areas eg prop shaft outlets, rudder posts etc. for leaks. Try slowly pouring water into the hull and see where it comes out. Tipping the hull fore and aft and across the beam could also help to localise the leak(s).

2-pack epoxy, and other modern adhesives, can work wonders once you've found the areas of leakage.

Good hunting,


Thread: Battery life
29/04/2021 17:23:01

Hi Brian,

I forgot to welcome you to the forum (talk about getting things backwards !).

Yes, Ashley has it in a nutshell. The BEC is just an electrical safety feature. Some of them are 'programmable' but, that's getting ahead of ourselves, and, as you quite correctly mention, this section is for beginners (that's me too !).

The alternative is to have a separate battery supply for the receiver (Rx). Not a bad idea actually although I think wiring etc. is best kept simple in the early stages...

One thing I would include is a suitable fuse in the main power lead. I think Dave M gives chapter and verse on this in his article.

Have fun and do ask about anything that's not understood,

Dave C

28/04/2021 22:53:08

Another good test would be to find out where the BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) cuts in - assuming you're planning to use one that is.

This is essential on RC aircraft to get them down safely after the motor(s) has been cut. On boats, less so perhaps, but, could save your boat hitting the bank /another boat etc. whilst it still has substantial way....

I think I would set a timer on the Tx to chime in about 10 minutes, or so, before the BEC is due.

The experts may disagree !

Thread: Trying to identify my boat?
28/04/2021 17:29:51

Apologies if I insulted your website Michael, but, I do get a lot of broken links and non-working URL's sent to me (20-odd years in IT doesn't help !).

As for the boat - not a clue. I can only assume that as it's metal hulled it may be intended as some form of artistic piece ?

Best regards,


28/04/2021 15:16:04

Have you got the correct URL ? This one looks like garbage to me...

Perhaps try and post a photo or'll need to set-up an "Album" first (see the grey band above with the little camera icon alongside).

Good hunting,

Dave C

Thread: Battery life
26/04/2021 15:39:43

That's quite a big boat - I don't know what your finished (water-ready) weight will be, but, I would also consider LiPo's.

I found when I first started messing with model boats (and aircraft) that my attention span was about 10 min's. After that, I needed to bring it back for a chat /drink, plenty of time to change batteries if necessary.

The only disadvantage I can think of is that LiPo's are lighter and you may need extra ballast. On the other hand, you can put that ballast where you want it for trim etc.

Properly looked after, LiPo's will last a long time (mine are now about 5-7 years old). The only safety thing I would recommend is that you place them in a fire-proof bag when charging. (My 'FP' bag cost about £3.50 I think).

Just a thought.....have fun.

Dave C

One more safety item - choose connectors which don't allow the main power leads to short each other (I use "XT60's", mainly because they are compatible with my planes and trains and things !) 


Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 26/04/2021 15:55:03

Thread: Size of a typical mast
21/04/2021 19:01:50

Carl, unless you are planning to sail your model yacht in a hurricane, I really wouldn't worry...

However, if you want to re-assure yourself further, you could always use the "Buckingham Pi" theorem to relate scale speeds /bending moments etc. to full-size wind speeds.

Could be fun on a wet, rainy day I suppose !



19/04/2021 13:52:52

The experts say that CF does not suffer from 'fatigue'...

My belief is that all materials will fatigue given enough abuse. The CF test pieces I have are fine as long as there is no separation (anywhere) between the fibres and the resin.

For a solid rod - just watch for any fretting - top, bottom and sides.

For a tube - separation will most likely show first at the external surfaces.

If in doubt, I usually reinforce with Kevlar (an Aramid). I'd have thought that a 6mm o/d will be plenty strong enough. However, if you want the mast to flex - consult the others with sailing experience !

Thread: Beginners RC fishing boat
16/04/2021 11:54:12

Hello Graham,

Welcome to the forum. There are many experts here who will be able to advise on motors, propellers, speed controllers etc. once you have chosen your model.

As for the radio side, these days it is more or less generalised to all boats (although there are some more specialised transmitters /receivers with special facilities...).

Also, when it comes to constructing the kit, you may find that there are some areas which need a fuller explanation. Often there are very knowledgeable modellers who have 'been there before'.

Just ask...

Good luck and have fun !


Thread: JIF 65
11/04/2021 12:12:35


I think it's fair to say that most (all ?) projects go through their 'up' and 'down' phases and may seem over-whelming in complexity at the time.

Sometimes, it is better to put it aside for a while and then come back to it. I'm currently designing and building a full-size Le-Mans style sportscar. Many, many, times I've had to take a step back and approach a problem from a different angle....

That's why I have something like my Pilot Cutter running in parallel for 'light' relief !

Coming back to your project, if you're not going racing, does it matter if everything isn't optimal ? The main aim is to have fun after all. I would say firstly get something working and then worry about how to improve it. The learning will come as you go along.

Best regards,


Thread: New chap here.
10/04/2021 22:03:29


The 1st one was for Action R/C Electronics (twin motor installation)

The 2nd, an installation for a "Tamar" class lifeboat

The other two (from memory) were for '540' type brushed motors . Last was Mtronics (I think) a much recommended supplier on this forum.

Hope this helps,


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