Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Yes, it's the old linear-to-area-to-volume game.
I did suggest a removable keel to him (as he can't lift the boat without a car jack and ramps), but, he thinks they look "ugly".
I think they can be made to look acceptable - if properly engineered. (I intend using one as opposed to 100% on-board ballast). Anyway, it'll be underwater so, unless you're a scuba diver....!
Build progress :
Just finishing some amendments to the stern frames (7, 8, and 9). This has necessitated a revised transom /rudder on the 50% mock-up.
First five half-frames in progress at 100%. Mainly using the re-profiled 50% starboard side ones as templates.
Made contact with an on-line colleague in Oz who has nearly completed a 56" pilot cutter. He reported that he had far too much hull displacement and now wishes he'd gone for a lower displacement design...(he needs a trolley to move it around and to launch it !).
Hopefully, some progress photos tomorrow.
Regards to all,
I can't help thinking it looks a bit "J2" (ish) ?
Old school America's Cup anyone...
Welcome to the forum.
Maybe the emblem on the transom gives a clue ?
Some careful cleaning perhaps...
|Thread: How to calculate the scale of my model boat...?|
Yes, Ashley's scraping method sounds like the way to go.
You may need to go easy in places though as you could go straight through ! I would do a couple of test patches first, then come back to us with some more photos. (It may just be brass-plated steel or similar...)
Michael - do you know what metal the hull is made from - steel, aluminium, brass etc. - this should point you in the direction of a repair scheme...?
I would start looking at the more obvious areas eg prop shaft outlets, rudder posts etc. for leaks. Try slowly pouring water into the hull and see where it comes out. Tipping the hull fore and aft and across the beam could also help to localise the leak(s).
2-pack epoxy, and other modern adhesives, can work wonders once you've found the areas of leakage.
|Thread: Battery life|
I forgot to welcome you to the forum (talk about getting things backwards !).
Yes, Ashley has it in a nutshell. The BEC is just an electrical safety feature. Some of them are 'programmable' but, that's getting ahead of ourselves, and, as you quite correctly mention, this section is for beginners (that's me too !).
The alternative is to have a separate battery supply for the receiver (Rx). Not a bad idea actually although I think wiring etc. is best kept simple in the early stages...
One thing I would include is a suitable fuse in the main power lead. I think Dave M gives chapter and verse on this in his article.
Have fun and do ask about anything that's not understood,
Another good test would be to find out where the BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) cuts in - assuming you're planning to use one that is.
This is essential on RC aircraft to get them down safely after the motor(s) has been cut. On boats, less so perhaps, but, could save your boat hitting the bank /another boat etc. whilst it still has substantial way....
I think I would set a timer on the Tx to chime in about 10 minutes, or so, before the BEC is due.
The experts may disagree !
|Thread: Trying to identify my boat?|
Apologies if I insulted your website Michael, but, I do get a lot of broken links and non-working URL's sent to me (20-odd years in IT doesn't help !).
As for the boat - not a clue. I can only assume that as it's metal hulled it may be intended as some form of artistic piece ?
Have you got the correct URL ? This one looks like garbage to me...
Perhaps try and post a photo or two....you'll need to set-up an "Album" first (see the grey band above with the little camera icon alongside).
|Thread: Battery life|
That's quite a big boat - I don't know what your finished (water-ready) weight will be, but, I would also consider LiPo's.
I found when I first started messing with model boats (and aircraft) that my attention span was about 10 min's. After that, I needed to bring it back for a chat /drink etc...so, plenty of time to change batteries if necessary.
The only disadvantage I can think of is that LiPo's are lighter and you may need extra ballast. On the other hand, you can put that ballast where you want it for trim etc.
Properly looked after, LiPo's will last a long time (mine are now about 5-7 years old). The only safety thing I would recommend is that you place them in a fire-proof bag when charging. (My 'FP' bag cost about £3.50 I think).
Just a thought.....have fun.
One more safety item - choose connectors which don't allow the main power leads to short each other (I use "XT60's", mainly because they are compatible with my planes and trains and things !)
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 26/04/2021 15:55:03
|Thread: Size of a typical mast|
Carl, unless you are planning to sail your model yacht in a hurricane, I really wouldn't worry...
However, if you want to re-assure yourself further, you could always use the "Buckingham Pi" theorem to relate scale speeds /bending moments etc. to full-size wind speeds.
Could be fun on a wet, rainy day I suppose !
The experts say that CF does not suffer from 'fatigue'...
My belief is that all materials will fatigue given enough abuse. The CF test pieces I have are fine as long as there is no separation (anywhere) between the fibres and the resin.
For a solid rod - just watch for any fretting - top, bottom and sides.
For a tube - separation will most likely show first at the external surfaces.
If in doubt, I usually reinforce with Kevlar (an Aramid). I'd have thought that a 6mm o/d will be plenty strong enough. However, if you want the mast to flex - consult the others with sailing experience !
|Thread: Beginners RC fishing boat|
Welcome to the forum. There are many experts here who will be able to advise on motors, propellers, speed controllers etc. once you have chosen your model.
As for the radio side, these days it is more or less generalised to all boats (although there are some more specialised transmitters /receivers with special facilities...).
Also, when it comes to constructing the kit, you may find that there are some areas which need a fuller explanation. Often there are very knowledgeable modellers who have 'been there before'.
Good luck and have fun !
|Thread: JIF 65|
I think it's fair to say that most (all ?) projects go through their 'up' and 'down' phases and may seem over-whelming in complexity at the time.
Sometimes, it is better to put it aside for a while and then come back to it. I'm currently designing and building a full-size Le-Mans style sportscar. Many, many, times I've had to take a step back and approach a problem from a different angle....
That's why I have something like my Pilot Cutter running in parallel for 'light' relief !
Coming back to your project, if you're not going racing, does it matter if everything isn't optimal ? The main aim is to have fun after all. I would say firstly get something working and then worry about how to improve it. The learning will come as you go along.
|Thread: New chap here.|
The 1st one was for Action R/C Electronics (twin motor installation)
The 2nd, an installation for a "Tamar" class lifeboat
The other two (from memory) were for '540' type brushed motors . Last was Mtronics (I think) a much recommended supplier on this forum.
Hope this helps,
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Nice model Ray.
I'll give balsa and obechi a test on the mock-up.....glass also sounds promising - if only for it's 'ding-proof' protection.
Thanks for the comments Ray - yep it's the mock-up. Currently having a re-think on a few areas now (frames 6 to 10 especially).
There will probably be some extra buoyancy in the keel 'dead-drop' together with some revised frame profiles and heights. The mock-up is loosely based on "Kindly Light", I think I'm now leaning towards "Jolie Brise" or, "Cours - Apres" ie with fuller hull shape and volume.
With regards planking - do you have any recommendations ? ie Non-ply strip wood, Glass etc. ?
Hi All, a quick update on progress :
The first two 'full-size' frames are now in 3mm ply. Decided to stay with the 6mm pine keel for now.
Main waterline stringer line not quite flowing as well as I would like, so, I'll tweak the mid-station frames as I go along to correct this. (Will probably increase hull volume as a side benefit.).
Some good news is that the 42" hull length will fit my standard size building board (also used for model aircraft). Initial thoughts on hull planking are two layers of 1/32 resin-bonded ply strips ? Hoping someone like SLEC can supply these...not yet decided between carvel or double-diagonal planking - any thoughts welcome !
As I'm hand-fretting /shaping the frames, these will probably take about 2 weeks to complete all 10. Photos to follow.
From observations of full-size craft, they tend to 'sit' bows up and stern down. There is a 15% scale model of the "Jolie Brise" on Youtube which seems to follow this overall trend.
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