Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
It seems that (kit-wise) most of the 'big stuff' falls in the 1/400, 1/500 or 1/600 scale areas.
I haven't researched the subs yet, but, I think a ship model of around 12-15" length overall would make a nice diorama size.
Cheers for now,
In these cold winter days, I'm mainly reduced to indoor pursuits. I was just thinking about a possible model boat diorama though...
Available supporting pieces are in the following scales : 1/72, 1/43 and 4mm:1 foot (model railway).
I'd be interested to hear of any other scenes being modelled.
I'm wondering about a sub' just surfacing - perhaps nearing a supply or hospital ship.
Merry Christmas all
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I used Rustins sanding sealer and 'standard' model aircraft (clear) dope from the model shop - both were past their 'sell-by' date but it didn't seem to matter.
I also used a little P38 in places without problems. As mine is a fast launch, I was trying to keep the weight down where possible. (Filler can get quite heavy if used in excess).
This is probably one of those areas where everyone has their own favourite methods....if in doubt, make up some test pieces and try out different combinations...
Regarding the glue - I've not tried "Gorilla" myself but have heard good things about it - particularly strength-wise.
My personal favourite wood glue is "Tightbond Original". There may have to be some additional hull water-proofing (I used sanding sealer followed by model aircraft 'dope', then aerosol paint . So far, no leak problems despite the inevitable beginner's crashes !
Do a good float test in the bath /pool before going to big water. I also used 2-pack epoxy where the prop shaft and rudder post penetrates the hull (inside and out).
Coming back to your planking - I used a mix of 1/64 and 1/32 ply on my little RAF launch.
When used as a 'double-biax' - that is an "X" lamination with a good quality glue - it is massively strong. (It's how they made the full-size 70 foot launches after all).
Ray's glassing suggestion is well worth considering though as this makes the whole hull much more 'ding-proof'.
|Thread: help - 1/250 scale Yamato|
Just a few thoughts :
For a beginner to RC boats (like me), it may be best to keep things simple eg single motor /ESC /single commercial rudder.
I don't know how you're planning to operate the model, but at 'harbour' speeds the rudder(s) may not be all that effective - so, going "multi-motor" gives extra steering assistance.
Build a simple balsa kit boat first to gain RC experience before going scale ???
Most importantly, have fun !
ps For suitable kits, I'm sure the experts on the forum can advise you better then me
|Thread: 1:24 RRS Discovery|
When trying to trace leaks, I have in the past used the old trick of a drop of washing-up liquid placed, selectively, and one at a time inside the hull. Then a little warm water and, perhaps, gentle heat from a hair dryer along the outside of the test area. Watch for soap bubbles inside...
I think in your case, I would start with the prop' shaft and rudder areas first, then move onto the hull planking. This is if you want to preserve the structure "as is". Failing this, then re-glassing looks like the best bet as the experts have already suggested.
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Just sent you a pm (thanks for any help !)
|Thread: Returning modeller|
I've not used a twin rudder set-up myself, but, the way I've seen others do it is to couple them together using an adjustable linkage - a threaded rod with ball links (or similar), to allow for them to be aligned. This linkage spans the two cranks at the top of each rudder post.
The steering servo then moves one rudder (via the same crank arm as above) then the other rudder will move in unison.
You can adjust the relative movement 'gearing' (servo-to-rudder) by choosing the appropriate holes on the two crank arms.
I expect one of the others will have a photo of this as the mechanism is really simple once seen.
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Sounds great Neil - I'll certainly look out for one.
Neil : That tool looks very useful indeed - I'll look out for one. I bet you need a good pair of protective gloves just in case...
Ray : Yes, a Myford would be great. I don't have space for a free-standing one, but, a bench model could work if they do one. I'll do a bit more research on the Warco's and Clarke's as well.
Shame we can't get to shows and auction houses at present to gauge wear etc on used equipment....roll on the C19 vaccine !
Thanks for the reply David.
For the T45 tube, the 'critical' dimension is the i/d. It's actually 5mm wall as supplied from the stockholders. Inside this will be the EN14 (for the bearing registers), so I have a bit of wiggle room there.
The question is really relating to the capability of the mini-lathe type chuck's capacity. I have a feeling I will have to buy the next size up of lathe though to be able to machine this lot. Ideally, I'd like to stay with a bench-size model as workshop space is tight..
Good point about the tube o/d and i/d not being concentric - I hadn't thought of that ! Currently, I'm leaning toward the "Warco" range (on the recommendation of a friend), so will try to get some info' on mandrels etc. from their tech support desk.
Some parts I need to machine :-
1. T45 tube 60.3mm with the i/d turned to about 52mm
2. EN14 bar 55mm with the o/d an interference fit in 1. above and bored to take deep-groove bearings with tolerance 0 to -0.01mm
3. 300M bar - diamond (or similar) tipped tooling required ?
Hardly model boat stuff but relevant for lathe /chuck sizes that I need to buy soon. The lathe will also be used for model boat /engineering as well. Any guidance on chucks, faceplates, mandrels etc will be helpful...
Ray, (and other engineers) are you there ?
You could do a lot worse than have a look at Jerry Rosa's videos on Youtube. (Rosa String Works).
He's a guitar /Mandolin /Violin /Double-bass etc luthier and uses a lot of wood cut from his own farm using a variety of power saws, sanding and thicknessing kit that he's built and modified himself.
Although he's based in the 'States you can email him with sensible questions and I know he works with very thin wood sections during his day-to-day life. This will include all types of soft and hard woods...
Good luck with your projects,
|Thread: Caldercraft PCF Swift boat|
If you want to sell /trade your boats I would post up a few photos - there may just be a market for them.
You'll need to setup an "Album" first then, upload the photos to the album. After that, you can include them in the normal 'posting' windows (such as this) using the little camera icon - next to the "Smiley".
I'm sure the others will help with setting up the album if you get stuck...
|Thread: wood breaking|
There is a bit of a fight going on here with the wood on the inside of the bend being in compression (squeezing) and that on the outside being in tension (stretching).
Guitar makers (aka Luthiers) use something called "Kerfing". If you look on the inside of an acoustic guitar this forms the 'shelf' that the top and bottom pieces are mounted on. It consists of partially sawn through slots that allow the wood to follow quite tight curves. Bob Abell's photo gives the general idea.
With 0.8mm thickness though the cuts would have to be very shallow. I would practice getting the depth and spacing right on a piece of scrap wood first. Then try heat /steam possibly with a weight on one end to ease the ply into shape. Patience is needed with Ashley's boiling saucepan approach but it does work (at least, I've used this method with hard(ish) balsa thicker than 0.8mm.
Good luck with your project.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Jim - just catching up on the thread, and, a few extra items on the electrical /radio side :
Like you, I had a broken battery connector on my Futaba /Acoms Tx. Mine was a spiral wound one rather than a flat tab that you reported. (I was checking the audio by-pass filter at the time and caught my sleeve in it !). The wire quality to the main PCB is not great and doesn't really like solder - mine has failed twice. I would reinforce carefully with good quality wire and add some heat shrink sleeving for extra support on the repair.
Dave M recommended 4Max as a supplier for the wattmeter. Although they deal mainly in aircraft stuff they are a really good supplier and give good general advice on chargers, motors etc.
It's worth looking at the "XT60" type connectors. They are a really nice little unit especially for on-board battery use. There is a 'big brother' as well for carrying the larger currents...
|Thread: Motors/prop for model warship|
A few random thoughts :
I once saw a boxed set of "Model World" for sale on an internet auction site. Price was on the high side, but, I'm kicking myself now.
Hmm, 3" beam sounds narrow(ish). I suppose if the CG is low enough it should be all right.
I have a 385 in a fast, planing hull with a 30mm /3 blade prop. It doesn't seem to get hot at all - I expect this is breaking all the 'rules' though.
Nice choice of subject. I think I can visualise a rotating scanner and (randomly) moving turrets. Arduino maybe ?
(ps I did say they were random !)
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Hi Tim and Ray
Thanks for the warnings and comments. I should reiterate that the present set-up is just to see me through until I can find a lathe and a proper mill...
Some light grinding this afternoon on a piece of brass allowed working to about 5 thou" (hard to be exact without a DTI or digital calipers) - this with a rotary grinding wheel and brass work piece in the X-Y table.
There was some tool chatter, and so, I stop and check the chuck at regular intervals. Also, I let the Cub cool down in between runs, so, no need to report me to the RSPCA just yet Ray !
Incidentally, my local 'CNC' machine shop (who can work to 6 microns, so they say) charges £65 /hour. So, you don't actually have to do all that many hours to clock up the price of a good lathe.
Above photos show a trial set-up of the new X-Y Table with the venerable Wolf Cub.
The jury's still out on accuracy ! First test was to rout a block of medium balsa. - this went well with the grain but needed a little clean-up with an X-Acto chisel across the grain. Certainly good for bulk removal of material though using a ball-ended Dremel cutter.
Next tests will be in metal. Probably one milling job followed by a vertical turning in brass I expect.
I think it should be alright for small boat parts. Cost so far under £100...
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