Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help needed|
I think the late John Pritchard was a specialist in this type of craft (especially the RAF one's)...
Might be worth a Google search in and around his name to pick up some supplementary links etc.
|Thread: Motor /Controller /Prop upgrade|
Good point Malcolm.
On the box (outer) - 'Futaba Attack II 27MHz' - it just says "Battery Eliminator Circuitry". I think the original instructions (if there were any ) have been lost...
For the Arduino, I'll probably use the regulated 'on-board' 4.8 volt supply. This will do nav' lights, search light and gun turret etc. duties, together with in-series resistors as needed.
I think I will do some "low-voltage" bench testing though just to determine what the operational limits are. I have a feeling it will be 'jitter' (or, full throw) on the rudder servo and some erratic wiper movement on the BB - another good reason to exchange the BB for an ESC perhaps !
I'll have a go at getting them on Youtube then....
Sorry about the duplication above - don't quite know what I did there ! Please feel free to remove one (or, both ?) of them.
Hi Ray /Malcolm,
Yes, the Bob's Board does get in the way a bit, but, is part of the 'vintage' feel of the little craft. It does, however give a good progressive range of speeds if you keep the wiper /track clean... At the Tx end, the 'neutral' dead-spot is quite sensitive though and takes a bit of getting used to. I think this is where a programmable ESC would be nicer.
The Futaba packaging claim a BEC for the Rx and I power everything from the one Lipo. This may change when I have an Arduino on-board to control the gun turret ! (If I ever get that far...).
Yes Ray, the call of the wind is beckoning...
The boat does accelerate very quickly once 'up-on-the-plane' - probably near to what my reactions can keep up with at present !
In terms of the upgrade, (thanks for the tech' on this by the way), the shaft outer is 6mm diameter - hence, I felt I could safely drill out the bobbins at either end plus, the stern-end of the "Huco" coupling to take a 3mm inner. I'm wondering if 4mm would be pushing the clearances a bit ?. The boat is nice and water-tight now so, I'd rather not start to rip the insides out.
So, then, a motor upgrade, 3mm shaft (if I can find a suitable prop) and, possibly an ESC to replace the BB could be in order. The real essence of the project - as inherited from my son and his friend - is for a 'pocket money', fun-scale little boat. I think if I turn it into a 'cheque book project' the fun element will disappear...
Thanks again for your help,
Well folks, the first run of the little RAF launch took place this morning on the upper reaches of the river Avon.
I must say it looked a treat in the early morning sunshine ducking in and out of the various overhangs on the river...
Trim-wise, it was a little bow-heavy to start with but, when 3/4 to full power was applied she came up nicely onto the 'step' (I know Ashley had his doubts about this..) and, rode bows just clear. It may need a little 'church roof' in the stern just to assist slow speed running.
I think the hull can handle a little more power - at the moment I have a 380 /385s motor with a 3-blade prop running a 2mm shaft / 7.4v Lipo and a Bob's Board.
Suggestions welcome for the next upgrade: eg 2-blade racing prop /3mm inner shaft (any bigger and I'll have to change the outer as well - rather not !). Also, the Bob's Board may be sapping a little power and there did seem to be a slight power hesitation when crossing back over the wake ?
Thanks to all for the help so far...I think it will be a nice cruising yacht next with an auxiliary motor /folding prop' combo and much bigger so that I can get my poor old fingers inside.
I have a few nice videos of this morning's runs taken by my wife on her smart phone - are we able to upload /link from the forum ???
|Thread: Help please! Inherited some boats!|
There could be 'gold' in them-there hills ! (Wooden hills that is.....).
Would that be Corby, Northants ? My son lives nearby,
I imagine if they're racing boats the engines will be 2 strokes ? However, if there's a '4' amongst them...I could be interested.
Good luck with your sale,
|Thread: Rigging thread|
I've also used 'monofilament' fishing line before now.
It's near transparent, available in different gauges (strengths) and does have a bit of 'give' if that's what you want.
If roving through blocks /pulleys etc I put a small blob of 2-pack epoxy on the end to stop it running back through....also, you can "double-it-back" through some electrical sleeving to form a loop for securing to a bollard, cleat etc
I think it may take paint as well, but I haven't tried this. Most fishing shops will have some on a round reel for a few pounds.
|Thread: Wooden model|
I would consider Ray's words very carefully - he's got a lot of practical experience to share.
A model that looks 'large' in a display cabinet at home can 'shrink' alarmingly when out on the water ! The forces of nature - wind and water - are the same for full-size boats and models....hence, working models have to cheat a little (especially sailing craft I would think) to make them work well.
I think I would treat this model as a learning exercise, and, if you want to stay with this class of ship (Clipper ?) go much bigger for a working model.
Just my thoughts but Ray, Ashley, Dave M etc will give much better advice than I
Most importantly enjoy your build !
|Thread: Power and control|
Radio on rudder only ?
If it were me (and not wanting to risk being 'stranded' mid-lake), I would go for some form of motor control as well. Simple on/off perhaps, but definitely forward /reverse - to get out of reed banks etc.
I think Ashley carries a RC landing craft for such retrievals !!
|Thread: Need Advice|
I think we should continue to encourage "newcomers" to modelling, otherwise, in this age of 'instant gratification' we are all doomed to modelling extinction.
I suppose, though, being realistic, some newcomers will "sink without trace". Also, I think it's a fine line between giving them helpful, comprehensive starting advice and frightening them off !!
You can't win them all...
If I were you I would start with a simple balsa model - either working or static. Initially, you need to build up skills...
You also need to build up a tool kit. This can be quite basic to begin with but normal 'household' tools eg screw drivers, pliers, Stanley knife, hand-drill etc will take you a long way. You will also need some glues and adhesives eg 2-pack epoxy, superglue, PVA (aliphatic if possible).
Find out first if the hobby is for you ! You will learn important lessons on your first boat. Then, if you want to continue, spend some money on specialist tools, go to a few model shows and, maybe join a club (highly recommended for the help you'll receive)...
|Thread: Plans for modern yachts|
I think from a general modelling point-of-view a lot depends on the purpose of the model :
For instance, do you want an accurate scale model that will grace a display case, or, do you want something that will work well in its "natural environment"....water and air molecules being what they are won't 'scale' with our models !
Working models, therefore, are almost always a compromise between something that looks reasonable and something that performs well. You could say that this is the whole art of it and it applies to boats, cars, gliders and many other types of model.
I've found that a little thought up-front can save a lot of disappointment and wasted effort later on...
|Thread: Seeking Instructions|
An unusual scale....1/72 is more normal (at least in plastic).
If the wood is good quality eg lime, it could carve ok, otherwise, there may be some *&^%$£"! about...
Could be time to sharpen and hone those chisels !
Good luck with the project.
|Thread: RAF Launch accessories|
Ashley / Ray
Coming back to the 2-colour chequer on the fore deck - is it best to use a decal sheet for this ?
My masking tape always seems to leave a slightly ragged edge ? I read somewhere that if you prepare the surface first with something like banana oil /sanding sealer /dope etc. that this gives a flatter, 'anti-bleed' sort of surface for the tape to adhere to...
Thanks for any tips as usual.
|Thread: RAF Fireboat Figures|
For RAF crew, I used a mid-to-dark blue (not as far as "deadly nightshade" but perhaps a shade or two lighter).
Black boots /shoes and a bit of dirt on mechanics overalls etc. If they're traditional fire crew, there are a number of different cues eg in the Fleet Arm Arm we had guys with white overalls and orange or buff jackets....have a look at some photos on the net for further ideas.
An interesting scale issue this one: I always thought these 'fire' launches were around 60-70 feet in length....ie about the same length as the ASR launches based on British Power Boats and Vosper Thornycroft designs. (My Dad skippered one in WW2...).
My own little effort is 16" length and 1/48 Revell Airmen when held up against the wheelhouse door looked just bang on. Maybe my cabin is 'not quite right' but, as it's just fun scale, I tend to go on whether it just "looks right".
On the other hand, I know men who are 4' 8" tall and others who are nearly 7 feet ! What do we do with scale here ?
|Thread: RAF Launch accessories|
I've been busy doing a trial build of my sportscar's front suspension today, including making a 'dummy' damper (shock-absorber). Also, finishing a refurb' on a RC glider (Italian aerobatic team)...
When I feel like a change, yes, some deck fittings would be nice. I've seen yellow and black chequer on the foredeck too. Also, some boats have a number there (squadron no. ?) but, not necessarily the hull number...and, some have the hull number on the stern as well ! It's difficult to know where to stop with this 'accessories' thing.
Fairleads could be fun, with some coiled rope (probably string to keep the scale). However, that rotating gun turret thing is at the back of my mind....
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