Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Hi Mike and Malcolm
Mike : Yes, the transverse x-members were used on the 50% mock-up to good effect, Surprisingly, at 100% I can't budge the frames except for a little fore and aft flex . This is probably due to the multi-laminations used on the gunwales I suspect. However, I'll review it when there are a few planks in place either side. A motor on-board is part of the plan. I'd not thought of using lime but I'll try and source some strip wood and do a few experiments...
Malcolm : Tom Cunliffe says in his book on Pilot Cutters that he had an engine on board "Hirta" when he owned her. This has since been re-named "Cornubia" (see photo at the beginning of the thread) her original name post- restoration. Mine is loosely based on "Kindly Light" from Barry, South Wales and built by Coopers near Bristol.
I'll look out for the book you mention (not sure if my local library is back in service yet !).
|Thread: John Longford 'Barbara'|
You mention that you have loads of old radio gear from cars and aircraft. Just as a note, you can use 27MHz in boats but not 35 MHz (this is reserved for aircraft). However, you may still have to change crystals if someone else is on your frequency...
A better bet these days would be to plump for the new 2.4 GHz technology where there is virtually no risk of interference from other modellers. Prices for these sets have come tumbling down in recent years and are now very affordable.
I still use my 'old' gear for bench testing and prototyping new ideas, so, there's no need to throw it away.
Why not give us a list of what you've got, including ESC's, Motors, Batteries etc and we can go from there ?
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Just finished running a rubbing strip from frame 5 (mid-ships) to the stern blocks and the curve looks quite nice. I'll do the same from F5 forward to the bows and then post a photo or two.
Looks like a little fairing-in will be needed here and there but nothing too dramatic...
Hi Both - thanks for the advice - yes, I think action now is the answer....running some bent card strips around the hull it seems she is 90% fair - a small hollow at the bows and another at the stern, but otherwise looks OK.
I think I'm looking at 3/16 by 3/8 balsa planking as a 'starter-for-ten', I'll run a couple of planks up from the gunwales, checking both sides are the same, and see how it shapes up.
Ray: the structure is secured to building board by masking tape which I've drawn the layout dimensions on (see last photo). The tape will come up with the hull (I hope !) and be sanded off together with any surplus packing pieces I put in to get the deck 'rocker' right.
Adding in the gunwales /inwales has produced some reflex curvature (plan view) into the topsides. It's all still very rough at present but I'm not sure whether to remove it now, or, wait until the frames are faired in ? Any thoughts welcome...
I have some 'gunwale' blocks in place - bow and stern at present to give the structure more stability. Thinking of continuing this all the way around 'top-sides'.
I'm feeling my way into planking and will probably start top-sides (with carvel) and then move "up" towards the keel whilst still inverted...
Shortly, I'll need to decide on mast step, steering and motor positioning.
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 12/06/2021 11:22:05
Think I'll be attempting some planking soon. I'll probably take Ray's advice and use Balsa strips as an initial step.
Yes, even with a removable keel I think it will weigh a bit - I'm already planning the launching trolley !
Little and Large - the 50% mock up (left of main structure) is still providing a useful reference...
A quick calculation reveals that a 3mm error in a hull of 42" LoA is rather insignificant. In fact, the Windows calculator jumped straight into 'Scientific' notation...
OK, I'll stop berating myself now !
Blast and Damnation ! : Wouldn't you know it - after setting up the keel, stempost and sternpost bang on datum, I installed the two Frame 5 halves to give the whole structure some stability...(largest frame mid-ships).
Despite 'pegging' the two halves whilst the glue went off, the frame halves slipped 3mm out of register. I think a fix will be a small amount of re-profiling to re-match the halves. Also, for the other frames, I think I'll join them first, prior to installation !
Oh well, lesson learned. Thinking back, as I was packing the rocker at Station 5, there might have been a small amount of 'out-of-flat' on one of the packers - I guess this could have set up some internal stress against the keel and then the slippage was the result.
Now I know why Ray does his frames as in the photo for the Cullamix
At last, a full kit of parts for the hull. Now where did I put that building board ?
|Thread: RAF rescue launch ASR HSL|
The step (as viewed from aft) :
This isn't the 'proper' scale shape for the bow and step, but, it's how I did it.... the 'V' section (forward of the step) is in fact a 'double-hull'.
What I call "fun scale" (and, started by my son and a friend when they were very young...)
Hello Phillip and welcome to the forum.
I struggled with this one too. My boat is just 16" overall and, I couldn't find any commercial parts for the turret. In the end, I made one out of a car rear light bulb (which seemed to be the right size and shape).
The 'gunner' came from a 1/48 German aircrew set (Revell, I think). I had to do a bit of 'surgery' to get him inside the bulb once the base was removed ("ship-in-a-bottle" style !). I wrecked a few bulbs though in the process... The guns are also scratch built in balsa /dowel etc. The turret rotates, but, the gun barrels don't articulate. I have a long-term plan to use an "Arduino Uno" to rotate the turret in a randomly selected fashion...
Hope this helps - photo(s) below,
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 11/05/2021 08:45:23
|Thread: Newbie question about lube|
I think you can go with the lube ideas previously mentioned. Depending on access, a lubrication tube would be worth considering as Richard suggests. I think "Model Boat Bits" do a kit which you may be able to 'retro-fit'.
As for determining the waterline, I think I would start by weighing everything you are planning to put inside the hull - motors, batteries, radio etc.- the lot. Then, plug up all the leaks (Blue-Tack /whatever's to hand) and find some water -.kiddies paddling pool, garden pond, friend with a pool (you should be so lucky !).
Initially, I would float it empty, being a steel (?) hull it should sink to a 'natural' level but may be a bit 'wobbly'. Note the waterline and the boat's trim - eg bow low /stern low and any side-to-side list.
Now add ballast equivalent to the weight of the planned internal equipment. Move it around until a satisfactory trim is found.
You may find the level is higher than you thought acceptable. Come back to us with some photos. I'm sure the experts will be able to say what's safe. Then you can draught out your lines...
Cheers for now,
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 09/05/2021 22:11:20
Inner shaft with outer tube :I use a smear of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) at both ends of the shaft. Lightly pack nylon bobbins /inner shaft just at the extremities. No problems with leaks or shaft drag so far. Clean and replace every 1 to 2 years dependant on use.
For a larger hull, I would use either 'SIF' bronze bearings (no lubrication needed), or, Oilite bushings with just a few drops of light machine oil (eg "3-in-1" every so often.
Do you have exposed shafts running in plain bushings or, something more sophisticated ?
Is the motor end of the shaft(s) above or below the waterline ?
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 08/05/2021 10:11:17
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