Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Iím new to Model Boats and would appreciate some adviceÖ|
That goes for me too - perhaps someone can enlighten us ?
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Ray's method looks good providing you know where to put the line...
For commercial shipping this is an insurance requirement (Lloyd's Register ?). For leisure craft, it seems to mainly denote the anti-fouling line (I could be wrong there...).
The bath test, with ballast, would be a good starting point for a model backed up by real-life photos. Water-line markings are usually shown on designer's 'lines' drawings and /or the shipwrights experience of similar craft.
If the model's hull side is not dead smooth, it might be an idea to use sanding sealer (or similar) to fill in the 'dimples'. If this is not done paint can bleed under the masking tape and spoil the finished line.
Hope this helps,
|Thread: old hand but new to wooden boat building|
Hi George and welcome to the forum.
A quick Google search suggests that the kit is still available :-
They may be able to help with a photocopy or two ?
You've also posted here in the "Beginners Section" of the forum, so you could try broadening the search to other areas where folk may still have the original box /instructions 'on the shelf'.
Good hunting !
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Interesting thought Ray. I'm thinking of maybe using some "L" shaped pieces either side of the frames to attach the first layer of planking to.
Also, current plans are to install the prop' shaft, motor mount and maybe winch /rudder servo mounts too. Just measuring up for these now as, once planking has begun, it will be more fiddly to get inside the hull with 70+ year-old fingers !
I like the idea of using block balsa for bow and stern - that makes a lot of sense, and gives a nice interface for the planks to key into.
I'm currently thinking of 2-later planking. First 'skin' will be balsa - not sure about the outer skin yet - lime or mahogany maybe ?
I've now got someone to assist with the engine on the sportscar (hasn't been run for c.10 years !). Just working on the construction of the rear wing elements in between work on the cutter...
Cheers for now,
Some experiments with mast, bowsprit and boom positioning. The bowsprit will be shorter (over the hull), the mast taller and the boom longer (just overhanging the stern). All spars likely to be hardwood dowel - not really decided on the wood type yet but, open to ideas ?
|Thread: Help with Project for School Children|
As the various projects will be tested outdoors (pond at the back of the school), how about including a class for "Sail Power" ?
This brings in (STEM) aerodynamics as well as hydrodynamics.....let the kids decide ! The air is rarely completely stationary outside and sails could be made and chosen to suit the prevailing conditions.
The sails themselves could be made from waterproof paper eg grease-proof /parchment kitchen paper at very low cost. Masts can be made from a simple wooden dowel.
Points /Marks could be awarded for stability, speed, reaching the opposite bank etc along with other forms of propulsion. Perhaps a 'K' factor could be used for 'Light Airs' to make it more even !
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Sum'at's up lad !
As suggested you could either invest in a servo checker (recommended as, like a multi-meter, has all sorts of uses)..
Or, plug the suspect servo in to other channels /radios and see how it behaves. If it's the same everywhere, then I agree with Ray and you could either strip it for spares or bin it.
On the pilot cutter, I'm planning on putting sail control on the left-hand ('throttle' stick with a ratchet. So, fully back on the stick will be close-hauled (beating to windward), and fully forward will be sails right out (running before the wind). Centre, or thereabouts, will be for reaching. Later on, I'll probably go for individual sail control but that's getting more advanced ! This is just a personal preference of course...
Don't give up -there's an answer there somewhere,
A few possibilities :-
1. Search on-line for a manual /documentation for info' on your Tamco radio. See if there's anything specific to sail winches / continuous rotation servos.
2. Try the sail winch servo on your Futaba set - as shown on a previous photo (or any other radio for that matter).
The main idea is to prove if it's the servo that's the cause or, the radio. It could be that the Tx has to be set up in a specific way to achieve the desired results. I would certainly expect the feedback signal from the servo to the Rx to be different from a 'conventional' servo...
Good hunting, and perhaps one of the sailing experts has encountered this problem and can help.
|Thread: Westbourne project|
Hi Charlie and welcome to the forum.
£25 seems to be a very reasonable price for such a nice model. I wonder if there are any 'hidden' snags though ?
I think I would want to test out what works and what doesn't before tearing into it though - motor, prop, lights, batteries etc.
Also, might be worth giving it a float test in the bath as you may need to attend to internal leaks. This, assuming that you want it to be other than a static model of course....
Let us know how you get on,
|Thread: Dual prop question|
Speaking as a very inexperienced own-design /semi-scale builder there is a certain (perverse ?) pleasure in 'getting it right'. I'm sure the craftsmen of old - shipwrights /aircraft workers etc. all aimed high.
I think keeping it simple is a good road to this goal. The pilot cutter will have one motor, one rudder and one prop' to get me out of trouble when the sails fall limp...
I suppose that's the real beauty of semi-scale: no-one can say "That's not right" (I bet someone will though !).
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Off the building board for now. Just a small repair to one gunwale rubbing strip as it was lifted. Work continues strengthening the transom, bow and adding further gunwale in-fill pieces. Then it'll be back on the building board for planking to begin
Following on from work on the gunwale laminations, it looks like one of the frames nearest the bow needs correcting.
There is an 'inset' of about 3mm which will lead to some concavity of the profile. I'm thinking of packing this out as the planking rises up from the gunwale (hull inverted). I suppose filler could be used but I'd rather stick with 3mm marine ply which the rest of the frames are made from.
Don't really know how this error has crept in as port and starboard frames were cut and sanded as one !? (Possibly incorrect placement either side of the keel, or, a simple measurement mistake from the hull centreline to the outboard position).
Still, better to correct it now I think. I'll take some photos when the first few planks are in place showing the packing pieces.
|Thread: All New to me|
A good place to start maybe to think about what sort of boat appeals to you......eg. Tug, Warship, Racer, Sailing craft etc ?
I think there are beginners models in most of these categories.
My basic rules are :-
1. Keep it simple (at least to start with).
2. Do a float test in the bath /kiddies paddling pool.
3. Radio - go for 2.4 GHz so you don't have to worry about interference.
The experts on here (like Ray, Ashley, Malcolm & Co. ), will guide you through all the details and choices.
Forgot to mention Richard !
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 10/08/2021 17:26:13
|Thread: John Longford 'Barbara'|
A very interesting and informative article Richard.
I note that quite a few of the texts referred to were written before Aerodynamics and Downforce became the 'main /dominant' variable.
Also, many racing boats are now using aerofoils (in one form or another) to good effect.....I suppose if they were also using widely-spaced rudders / z-drives, or whatever, then Ackerman may have a role to play ?
Just a quick note :
By 'Ackerman effect' ( /geometry), I think Stewart is referring to the rudder on the inside of the turn moving through a greater angle than the rudder on the outside of the turn. This is usually used on road vehicles to reduce tyre scrub when cornering.
Stewart - this would be possible via a different type of adjustable linkage. I doubt there would be much benefit though. If you have a RC buggy in your stock of old models you could use this for inspiration if you wanted to experiment....
I'm not aware of any Ackermann effect on boats - after all, we're dealing with fluids not contact with solid surfaces like roads.... (I do, however, run some anti-Ackermann on my Le Mans-style sportscar but that's another story !).
For the rudder bushings I would use Sif bronze as it's self-lubricating, or, a good quality nylon bush (just a personal preference). The bronze should turn nicely on the lathe...
Geometry-wise, I'd go for a parallel linkage, about 30 deg's deflection either side of mid-ships. Fit control horns having a row of holes so you can fine-tune the throw. I think most people drive one rudder from the steering servo and 'slave' the other off it via an adjustable linkage rod. Use a little Vaseline (or, similar) top and bottom of the rudder posts to help with water-intrusion and lubrication.
Let the experts advise you on paint-cracking /hull preparation as I've no real experience here. (A few close-up photos would help here I expect).
Hi Stewart - looks like you have a good selection of kit and skills there - Have Myford will travel....! (I think Ray's got one of those).
Looking at the hull, it seems to be more of a 'planer' than displacement ? That being so, brushless with a good ESC and LiPo pack is probably the way to go. The experts on here will advise on motor size /Kv rating etc. as my experience is limited to small service craft with brushed motors and, electric gliders with brushless.
As you're into 'modding' radios, have you tried Hall-effect sticks - they are much smoother than the normal fare ?
On a final note - will it fit in the bath ? A floatation test should tell if any serious internal hull work is necessary before you fit it out with new equipment. Also, you can check out the trim fore-and-aft and any listing that may be present.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Hi Mike and Malcolm
Mike : Yes, the transverse x-members were used on the 50% mock-up to good effect, Surprisingly, at 100% I can't budge the frames except for a little fore and aft flex . This is probably due to the multi-laminations used on the gunwales I suspect. However, I'll review it when there are a few planks in place either side. A motor on-board is part of the plan. I'd not thought of using lime but I'll try and source some strip wood and do a few experiments...
Malcolm : Tom Cunliffe says in his book on Pilot Cutters that he had an engine on board "Hirta" when he owned her. This has since been re-named "Cornubia" (see photo at the beginning of the thread) her original name post- restoration. Mine is loosely based on "Kindly Light" from Barry, South Wales and built by Coopers near Bristol.
I'll look out for the book you mention (not sure if my local library is back in service yet !).
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