Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: RAF rescue launch ASR HSL|
The step (as viewed from aft) :
This isn't the 'proper' scale shape for the bow and step, but, it's how I did it.... the 'V' section (forward of the step) is in fact a 'double-hull'.
What I call "fun scale" (and, started by my son and a friend when they were very young...)
Hello Phillip and welcome to the forum.
I struggled with this one too. My boat is just 16" overall and, I couldn't find any commercial parts for the turret. In the end, I made one out of a car rear light bulb (which seemed to be the right size and shape).
The 'gunner' came from a 1/48 German aircrew set (Revell, I think). I had to do a bit of 'surgery' to get him inside the bulb once the base was removed ("ship-in-a-bottle" style !). I wrecked a few bulbs though in the process... The guns are also scratch built in balsa /dowel etc. The turret rotates, but, the gun barrels don't articulate. I have a long-term plan to use an "Arduino Uno" to rotate the turret in a randomly selected fashion...
Hope this helps - photo(s) below,
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 11/05/2021 08:45:23
|Thread: Newbie question about lube|
I think you can go with the lube ideas previously mentioned. Depending on access, a lubrication tube would be worth considering as Richard suggests. I think "Model Boat Bits" do a kit which you may be able to 'retro-fit'.
As for determining the waterline, I think I would start by weighing everything you are planning to put inside the hull - motors, batteries, radio etc.- the lot. Then, plug up all the leaks (Blue-Tack /whatever's to hand) and find some water -.kiddies paddling pool, garden pond, friend with a pool (you should be so lucky !).
Initially, I would float it empty, being a steel (?) hull it should sink to a 'natural' level but may be a bit 'wobbly'. Note the waterline and the boat's trim - eg bow low /stern low and any side-to-side list.
Now add ballast equivalent to the weight of the planned internal equipment. Move it around until a satisfactory trim is found.
You may find the level is higher than you thought acceptable. Come back to us with some photos. I'm sure the experts will be able to say what's safe. Then you can draught out your lines...
Cheers for now,
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 09/05/2021 22:11:20
Inner shaft with outer tube :I use a smear of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) at both ends of the shaft. Lightly pack nylon bobbins /inner shaft just at the extremities. No problems with leaks or shaft drag so far. Clean and replace every 1 to 2 years dependant on use.
For a larger hull, I would use either 'SIF' bronze bearings (no lubrication needed), or, Oilite bushings with just a few drops of light machine oil (eg "3-in-1" every so often.
Do you have exposed shafts running in plain bushings or, something more sophisticated ?
Is the motor end of the shaft(s) above or below the waterline ?
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 08/05/2021 10:11:17
|Thread: Battery life|
As a matter of interest, what size fuse are you planning on using ?
Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 05/05/2021 22:49:11
Looks like you're on the right road ( / lake).
Keep on 'trucking'...and, enjoy your build,
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Work has begun on the 100% frames, 1 thro' 5. As I'm 'hand-fretting', have decided to bolt the frame halves together to shape identical port and starboard profiles.
Nearly there with the 50% mock-up. Frames 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 have been re-profiled and re-sized.
|Thread: Trying to identify my boat?|
A few further thoughts :
1. Aluminium does corrode, although it is different from 'ferrous' metal corrosion. My experience is based on Fleet Air Arm aircraft operating in salt water environments and on racing cars of the 60's and 70's era with aluminium monocoques (similar to a metal boat hull actually).
2. The corrosion is a sort of white-ish /grey appearance. In the navy, we used "yellow chromate" to treat and protect. Best to watch out for dissimilar metal corrosion (galvanic) too. You can use "Di-chromate Paste" to form a good separating layer. An application here would be a steel fitting passing through an aluminium plate for instance.
3. For a patch panel repair, have a look at "Lumiweld". It is rather like 'low-tech brazing' and has had very good reviews (although I've yet to use it....). If you Google the name, the UK supplier should come up and they do a hobby-style kit with instructions.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Yes, it's the old linear-to-area-to-volume game.
I did suggest a removable keel to him (as he can't lift the boat without a car jack and ramps), but, he thinks they look "ugly".
I think they can be made to look acceptable - if properly engineered. (I intend using one as opposed to 100% on-board ballast). Anyway, it'll be underwater so, unless you're a scuba diver....!
Build progress :
Just finishing some amendments to the stern frames (7, 8, and 9). This has necessitated a revised transom /rudder on the 50% mock-up.
First five half-frames in progress at 100%. Mainly using the re-profiled 50% starboard side ones as templates.
Made contact with an on-line colleague in Oz who has nearly completed a 56" pilot cutter. He reported that he had far too much hull displacement and now wishes he'd gone for a lower displacement design...(he needs a trolley to move it around and to launch it !).
Hopefully, some progress photos tomorrow.
Regards to all,
I can't help thinking it looks a bit "J2" (ish) ?
Old school America's Cup anyone...
Welcome to the forum.
Maybe the emblem on the transom gives a clue ?
Some careful cleaning perhaps...
|Thread: How to calculate the scale of my model boat...?|
Yes, Ashley's scraping method sounds like the way to go.
You may need to go easy in places though as you could go straight through ! I would do a couple of test patches first, then come back to us with some more photos. (It may just be brass-plated steel or similar...)
Michael - do you know what metal the hull is made from - steel, aluminium, brass etc. - this should point you in the direction of a repair scheme...?
I would start looking at the more obvious areas eg prop shaft outlets, rudder posts etc. for leaks. Try slowly pouring water into the hull and see where it comes out. Tipping the hull fore and aft and across the beam could also help to localise the leak(s).
2-pack epoxy, and other modern adhesives, can work wonders once you've found the areas of leakage.
|Thread: Battery life|
I forgot to welcome you to the forum (talk about getting things backwards !).
Yes, Ashley has it in a nutshell. The BEC is just an electrical safety feature. Some of them are 'programmable' but, that's getting ahead of ourselves, and, as you quite correctly mention, this section is for beginners (that's me too !).
The alternative is to have a separate battery supply for the receiver (Rx). Not a bad idea actually although I think wiring etc. is best kept simple in the early stages...
One thing I would include is a suitable fuse in the main power lead. I think Dave M gives chapter and verse on this in his article.
Have fun and do ask about anything that's not understood,
Another good test would be to find out where the BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit) cuts in - assuming you're planning to use one that is.
This is essential on RC aircraft to get them down safely after the motor(s) has been cut. On boats, less so perhaps, but, could save your boat hitting the bank /another boat etc. whilst it still has substantial way....
I think I would set a timer on the Tx to chime in about 10 minutes, or so, before the BEC is due.
The experts may disagree !
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