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Member postings for Dave Cooper 6

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Adhesives for an ABS hull
01/08/2022 21:15:34

I'm currently using "De Luxe" 2-pack stuff for most jobs. It is pricey (at c.£19).

On the bottles it says 4 mins working /setting time but you can stretch this to 10-15 mins on a good day.

My 'metal-to-wood' test pieces are given a good clout with a hammer after 24 hours. Usually, the wood lets go first.

Definitely abrade /clean ABS first as sometimes the mould release chemicals are still present.....

Good luck,


Thread: Returning modeller
31/07/2022 17:28:12

Space, space, we all need more space.....

I have a feeling that if I had an aircraft hangar for a workshop it wouldn't take long before it was full - perhaps a hangar with a workshop attached then.....?


Thread: Hello from Bury Lancashire
27/07/2022 10:30:51

Hi there, and welcome to the forum.

I'm not a tug man myself but I do know that many people have built them as an introduction to the hobby.

I assume you're going electric as opposed to IC or steam ? My initial advice would be to read the instructions twice over and try to match the kit contents to the instructions....before starting work.

No, it's not too early to be thinking about colours especially if you want a scale-looking craft / working boat etc.

Usually, further questions will fall out as you progress - motors, radio, props, rudders and the various control linkages etc. Just ask away there will be a tug expert somewhere on here to help.

Happy modelling,


Thread: Returning modeller
23/07/2022 12:43:49

Hi Jim,

Richard's 'step-by-step' approach is the one to go for.

Funnily enough, I usually start at the motor and work backwards ! What type of motor do you have brushed or, brushless ? For brushed, you can just apply the correct voltage to the two motor terminals.

For brushless, you'll need an ESC known to be good. Generally, they're pretty reliable but, I have had one go down last year when it dropped a phase out...

Also, I quite often take the radio out of the loop and prove all the circuitry out first. Blowing a 35 amp fuse suggests something is seriously amiss - check for shorts /faulty wiring etc.

Good hunting,


Thread: Scratch-build advice
22/07/2022 10:17:31

Just picking up on Colin's point, I think it can be possible to run flat decks and introduce an 'optical shear' with gunwhales, deck angles and other fittings to give a good approximation of the real thing.

I plan to do this on the Pilot Cutter as a simplification. However, mine's 'semi-scale'. Exact scale may call for something closer to reality.

Will your model be just for display or is it intended to be sailed on water etc. I think pure display models tend to get closer scrutiny ?

Anyway enjoy your project,


Thread: Scale speed
18/07/2022 12:39:29

Moving from Test Tank to computers is an interesting one. I believe most of the measuring kit at Teddington used to be analogue (reading from the tests performed by Barnes Wallis in the '40's). They've probably gone "digital" now like most other things.

For computer software, there is Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD). The models (mathematical) can be set up for both air (wind) and water (liquids /fluids). However, if you can understand partial differential equations (PDE's) you need no further help from me ! You'll need a very powerful machine though and be prepared for the 'solvers' to run for seems to be able to cope with laminar (smooth) flow quite well, but, if there's any turbulence or vortex involved then results can be not very reliable.

Let's keep it simple folks and just try moving the throttle stick and see what happens - that's the one that matters surely.

Regards to all,


16/07/2022 10:31:44

Strictly speaking, we should be using "waterline length" in the maths (ask a naval architect), but, for a barge /narrow boat this closely equates to length overall I should think.

The answer, I feel, lies in the throttle stick (not the soil !) - waggle it about a bit and see what happens...

At the end of the day, it's your model and so it's whatever pleases you.

Happy modelling,


Thread: Power Issues
14/07/2022 10:39:16

Hello James,

Just to add to Richard's very sound advice, I think that bringing an old model 'back-to-life' can be fun , but, can also be quite expensive....

This is OK if you want to continue with the hobby as what you will acquire along the way can be used on other models as well. An alternative approach may be just to clean this one up, perhaps give it a coat of new paint /varnish and let the children play /learn with it - basic electrical components and circuitry etc. one step on from the battery and lamp thing we all did in school ?

If they take a real interest, then you could perhaps help them build a simple kit or two.

Just a thought,


Thread: Relay that will work with 2s lipo
12/07/2022 14:15:12

Hi Neil,

Rather than go with relays (electro-mechanical), it may be better to use some 'solid-state' devices eg Thyristors for your switching requirements.

To make the correct selection you need to measure (or, estimate) the min' and max' of current, voltage and resistance you want to use.

A company such as "Switch Electronics" has a good selection of these devices at very reasonable prices. They will also have a 'data sheet' for each device that you can match your estimates with. You may also need a simple circuit to make all this up into a working system - try Youtube for a video explaining how to do this.

Happy Fishing !


Thread: Returning modeller
24/06/2022 09:48:38

Hi Jim,

There are a number of different ways of doing a 'mass transfer' from one machine to another. However, I usually use the opportunity to do some clearing out along the way (old folders, corrupt files etc.).

If you have "CD" (Compact Disc) drives on both machines this makes life easier. This has the advantage of making a 'back-up' (safety) copy of all your important stuff as you go.....

The alternative is to use a large capacity 'memory stick' and take everything across in one fell swoop. You can then do your housekeeping on the new machine. This will also make a back-up, but, memory sticks often get miss-laid or over-written I find.

Hope this helps,


Thread: SLEC Mr Tom
21/06/2022 16:18:54

Just to echo what Ray says - steaming does work as does making shallow 'nicks' every few mil's along the length of the strip. (More than one way to skin a cat !).

If in doubt, make a test piece first...



19/06/2022 10:19:17

Hi Andy,

I think it depends on the degree of curvature and the pliability of the wood. (Balsa comes in various densities, so it really depends on what they've supplied in the kit).

A good test is to hold one end of a length and see how 'whippy' it is....

On the Pilot Cutter - they are 42" long with a scarf joint around 'mid-span'. I made a test piece and this curved quite nicely in the dry state, so, I didn't bother with soaking.

For a smaller hull, you may find that especially around the bow area, with tighter curvature, you need to give it some extra 'persuasion'.

Happy modelling,



Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 19/06/2022 10:23:28

Thread: Semi-scale
18/06/2022 10:50:11

Just a quick legal point :

A colleague of mine who, generally, is regarded as a very good 'scale modeller' was advised to refer to his (I think for insurance purposes mainly) models as "semi-scale".

I think the main reason given was possible infringement of copyright /patent etc.of the original designs....We live in litigious times !

Coming back to common-sense practicality, it must be almost impossible to make an exact scale model right down to the thickness of handrails, nail heads etc. Perhaps the term "Near Scale" might be a safer bet, say, if offering a model for sale.



(ps I'm not a lawyer !)

Thread: Issues with RC model yacht winch servo
01/06/2022 13:07:04

Let us know how you get on James. A photo or two of the yacht in operation would be nice...



24/05/2022 15:42:44

George, you may need to define some nautical terms for him eg tack, clew, boom etc. otherwise, he won't have a 'clue'.

Some folk even get mixed up with port and starboard !



22/05/2022 19:27:40

Hello James,

Like you I'm a novice in this area. I think there are two basic types :-

1. The servo winds a sort of miniature drum. The cords (sheets) wrap around the drum and, effectively, pull the sails in in one direction, and let the sails out in the other direction. From what I've been told, it can end in a big tangle if the lines are not correctly 'tensioned' (using springs etc).

2. The second type operates a sort of long lever. The cords are attached to the end of this and the sails are pulled in /let out as the lever moves from side-to-side. This type is supposed to be more straight forward for the novice.

Try posting a few photos (of the inside of the hull especially) - you'll need to set up an 'album' first. There are quite a few sailing experts on the forum that can help you further...

Good luck,


ps to get to "Albums" use the grey bar at the head of the forum page. It also has the little camera icon alongside it


Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 22/05/2022 19:30:25

Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 22/05/2022 19:35:31

Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
08/05/2022 16:47:00

Thanks Rob,

Just started to plank some of the stern section. The rudder servo bearers are in and I've fitted a temporary rudder to work out the control runs etc.

I'll post some pic's when things are a little more advanced....



ps We've got the builders in next week, I've had to do some quick catch-up work on the model railway to make extra room in the workshop. So, there will now be 'a short intermission' !

Thread: Returning modeller
05/05/2022 10:14:10

Yes, great work Jim - looks lovely in the sunshine .

I'm slowly plodding ahead with the BC Pilot cutter. Rudder servo bearers in with a temporary rudder. Just started aft planking - stern to bow (seems easiest, rather than diagonal, as you say).

Will post some pic's soon. Remember to do a float test on yours !



Thread: Pins for construction
27/04/2022 10:27:44

I do use the coloured glass-headed pins from time-to-time, but, always insert them with a pair of long-nose pliers.

Green for starboard and red for port.....A much safer option is the 'T' top pins available from model suppliers. These you can insert with your fingers.

Yes, weights, clamps, clothes pegs, tape etc. all have their uses too. Not to forget a very small drop of Cyano (Super Glue) gives a useful temporary hold pending something more permanent.

Happy (and safe) modelling,


Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
13/04/2022 10:51:55

Part way through the rudder servo mountings when the dreaded C19 bug struck.

I've managed a 1/2 hour session in the workshop this week. It was enough to determine that if I put the closed-loop horn as high as possible (per Ray's suggestion) it should work.

The servo can then go just under the cockpit floor, probably with a removable hatch for access and adjustments.

I seem to remember from my model aircraft geometry, that the horn 'off-set' should match the servo actuator off-set. With a closed-loop, 'pull-pull' system, this means that the cords shouldn't go slack and /or solid rods shouldn't bind.

I'm sure a photo, or two, will make this clearer (in due course...),


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