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Member postings for Dave Cooper 6

Here is a list of all the postings Dave Cooper 6 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: John Longford 'Barbara'
27/07/2021 23:08:55

Hi Stewart - looks like you have a good selection of kit and skills there - Have Myford will travel....! (I think Ray's got one of those).

Looking at the hull, it seems to be more of a 'planer' than displacement ? That being so, brushless with a good ESC and LiPo pack is probably the way to go. The experts on here will advise on motor size /Kv rating etc. as my experience is limited to small service craft with brushed motors and, electric gliders with brushless.

As you're into 'modding' radios, have you tried Hall-effect sticks - they are much smoother than the normal fare ?

On a final note - will it fit in the bath ? A floatation test should tell if any serious internal hull work is necessary before you fit it out with new equipment. Also, you can check out the trim fore-and-aft and any listing that may be present.

Have fun,

Dave

Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
23/07/2021 11:06:00

Hi Mike and Malcolm

Mike : Yes, the transverse x-members were used on the 50% mock-up to good effect, Surprisingly, at 100% I can't budge the frames except for a little fore and aft flex . This is probably due to the multi-laminations used on the gunwales I suspect. However, I'll review it when there are a few planks in place either side. A motor on-board is part of the plan. I'd not thought of using lime but I'll try and source some strip wood and do a few experiments...

Malcolm : Tom Cunliffe says in his book on Pilot Cutters that he had an engine on board "Hirta" when he owned her. This has since been re-named "Cornubia" (see photo at the beginning of the thread) her original name post- restoration. Mine is loosely based on "Kindly Light" from Barry, South Wales and built by Coopers near Bristol.

I'll look out for the book you mention (not sure if my local library is back in service yet !).

Regards both,

Dave

Thread: John Longford 'Barbara'
21/07/2021 23:09:24

Hi

You mention that you have loads of old radio gear from cars and aircraft. Just as a note, you can use 27MHz in boats but not 35 MHz (this is reserved for aircraft). However, you may still have to change crystals if someone else is on your frequency...

A better bet these days would be to plump for the new 2.4 GHz technology where there is virtually no risk of interference from other modellers. Prices for these sets have come tumbling down in recent years and are now very affordable.

I still use my 'old' gear for bench testing and prototyping new ideas, so, there's no need to throw it away.

Why not give us a list of what you've got, including ESC's, Motors, Batteries etc and we can go from there ?

Regards,

Dave

Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter
09/07/2021 15:54:12

Just finished running a rubbing strip from frame 5 (mid-ships) to the stern blocks and the curve looks quite nice. I'll do the same from F5 forward to the bows and then post a photo or two.

Looks like a little fairing-in will be needed here and there but nothing too dramatic...

Dave

24/06/2021 17:57:28

Hi Both - thanks for the advice - yes, I think action now is the answer....running some bent card strips around the hull it seems she is 90% fair - a small hollow at the bows and another at the stern, but otherwise looks OK.

I think I'm looking at 3/16 by 3/8 balsa planking as a 'starter-for-ten', I'll run a couple of planks up from the gunwales, checking both sides are the same, and see how it shapes up.

Ray: the structure is secured to building board by masking tape which I've drawn the layout dimensions on (see last photo). The tape will come up with the hull (I hope !) and be sanded off together with any surplus packing pieces I put in to get the deck 'rocker' right.

Dave

24/06/2021 12:41:05

Adding in the gunwales /inwales has produced some reflex curvature (plan view) into the topsides. It's all still very rough at present but I'm not sure whether to remove it now, or, wait until the frames are faired in ? Any thoughts welcome...

gunwales & inwales.jpg

12/06/2021 11:20:11

I have some 'gunwale' blocks in place - bow and stern at present to give the structure more stability. Thinking of continuing this all the way around 'top-sides'.

I'm feeling my way into planking and will probably start top-sides (with carvel) and then move "up" towards the keel whilst still inverted...

Shortly, I'll need to decide on mast step, steering and motor positioning.

Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 12/06/2021 11:22:05

11/06/2021 16:34:05

stern shot of frames.jpg

11/06/2021 16:32:56

Think I'll be attempting some planking soon. I'll probably take Ray's advice and use Balsa strips as an initial step.

bow shot of frames.jpg

30/05/2021 21:55:18

Hi Ray,

Yes, even with a removable keel I think it will weigh a bit - I'm already planning the launching trolley !

Regards,

Dave

30/05/2021 14:42:57

Little and Large - the 50% mock up (left of main structure) is still providing a useful reference...

little & large.jpg

27/05/2021 22:49:03

A quick calculation reveals that a 3mm error in a hull of 42" LoA is rather insignificant. In fact, the Windows calculator jumped straight into 'Scientific' notation...

OK, I'll stop berating myself now !

Photos soon...

Dave

27/05/2021 22:22:55

Blast and Damnation ! : Wouldn't you know it - after setting up the keel, stempost and sternpost bang on datum, I installed the two Frame 5 halves to give the whole structure some stability...(largest frame mid-ships).

Despite 'pegging' the two halves whilst the glue went off, the frame halves slipped 3mm out of register. I think a fix will be a small amount of re-profiling to re-match the halves. Also, for the other frames, I think I'll join them first, prior to installation !

Oh well, lesson learned. Thinking back, as I was packing the rocker at Station 5, there might have been a small amount of 'out-of-flat' on one of the packers - I guess this could have set up some internal stress against the keel and then the slippage was the result.

Now I know why Ray does his frames as in the photo for the Cullamix

22/05/2021 17:06:40

At last, a full kit of parts for the hull. Now where did I put that building board ?

100% kit of parts.jpg

Thread: RAF rescue launch ASR HSL
11/05/2021 23:15:07

The step (as viewed from aft) :

bowstep.jpg

11/05/2021 23:12:50

This isn't the 'proper' scale shape for the bow and step, but, it's how I did it.... the 'V' section (forward of the step) is in fact a 'double-hull'.

bow undercut.jpg

11/05/2021 17:09:07
Posted by Philip Hughes 1 on 11/05/2021 09:53:04:

thanks for tips guys - I'll be sure to feedback how this goes. Nice tip about the bulb - can I ask what bulb you used - looks good on the pictures @Dave Cooper 6

I think it was a rear stop /tail from a VW Golf Estate. We had to get a spare set to go touring around Europe. I think mine maybe a little 'over-scale' though. I sized the gunner from the wheel-house door and then the turret from the gunner, plus some photos on the internet.

My Dad was a skipper of one of these during WW2. From his memories (and stories) plus, some modeller's licence I finished the boat from where the boys left off. It planes quite nicely as it has a shallow 'V' just before a step, approx. 1/3 back from the bows. Aft of this is flat bottom.

11/05/2021 08:33:08

What I call "fun scale" (and, started by my son and a friend when they were very young...)

rear gunner and turret.jpg

launch side view 3.jpg

11/05/2021 08:26:13

Hello Phillip and welcome to the forum.

I struggled with this one too. My boat is just 16" overall and, I couldn't find any commercial parts for the turret. In the end, I made one out of a car rear light bulb (which seemed to be the right size and shape).

The 'gunner' came from a 1/48 German aircrew set (Revell, I think). I had to do a bit of 'surgery' to get him inside the bulb once the base was removed ("ship-in-a-bottle" style !). I wrecked a few bulbs though in the process... The guns are also scratch built in balsa /dowel etc. The turret rotates, but, the gun barrels don't articulate. I have a long-term plan to use an "Arduino Uno" to rotate the turret in a randomly selected fashion...

Hope this helps - photo(s) below,

Dave

Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 11/05/2021 08:45:23

Thread: Newbie question about lube
09/05/2021 22:03:57

Hi Michael

I think you can go with the lube ideas previously mentioned. Depending on access, a lubrication tube would be worth considering as Richard suggests. I think "Model Boat Bits" do a kit which you may be able to 'retro-fit'.

As for determining the waterline, I think I would start by weighing everything you are planning to put inside the hull - motors, batteries, radio etc.- the lot. Then, plug up all the leaks (Blue-Tack /whatever's to hand) and find some water -.kiddies paddling pool, garden pond, friend with a pool (you should be so lucky !).

Initially, I would float it empty, being a steel (?) hull it should sink to a 'natural' level but may be a bit 'wobbly'. Note the waterline and the boat's trim - eg bow low /stern low and any side-to-side list.

Now add ballast equivalent to the weight of the planned internal equipment. Move it around until a satisfactory trim is found.

You may find the level is higher than you thought acceptable. Come back to us with some photos. I'm sure the experts will be able to say what's safe. Then you can draught out your lines...

Cheers for now,

Dave

 

 

Edited By Dave Cooper 6 on 09/05/2021 22:11:20

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