Here is a list of all the postings Gary Hill 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lipo batteries|
I had a 1s show 8.88v, it had been over discharged and it fooled the checker, I think I’d put the battery back on charge, it won’t matter leaving it on full charge for a few days. The charging read out will give you an idea of how much juice it used.
|Thread: 3D Printer|
Embarrassingly I’ve not made much progress, the hull is glassed/epoxied and looking tatty with its high build primer coats rubbed down. I got distracted when I started using the printer and couldn’t find the wood I’d cut to finish the hull. I want to get the hull finished before I start the superstructure, but I need to sort out the steering gear first.
I think as a BMFA member you are allowed to fly without the number until the end of January. That said I decided to just do the simple CAA test on line and get my number rather than wait as the club field is quite waterlogged at the moment and I’m flying smaller planes at home.
I too bought a 3D printer recently, a s/h one from a fellow aero club member in my case. They are a truly remarkable tools. Although mine does not have a heated bed so I’m limited to PLA, which is fine for most things, TPU for items needing to be flexible and PETG which is similar to using ABS without the awful smell.
|Thread: Lipo batteries|
the screen and layout look the same as my old sigma 2 which needs the output leads connected plus the balance lead if you want to balance charge a lipo. I charge my lipos at 1C rate so for a 3700 mah I would use 3.7 amps, remember to select the correct voltage 7.4v for 2s, 11.1v for 3s etc. The other difference is that the charger is ‘intelligent’ so if you over discharge a lipo it won’t attempt to recharge it, hence the need for a voltage checker.
|Thread: Problem setting up receiver on RC boat|
Hi, one other possibility is that the transmitter has had the throttle channel reversed. I think FlySky use a version of OpenTx so it should be possible to fix.
|Thread: Technological Progress - Is it getting too complicated?|
Interesting comments about modern cars, but I wouldn't want to go back to the days where I would seem to spend my weekends replacing brakes/exhausts/failed bulbs or getting punctures repaired. In my last 10 years at work I drove around 20k miles a year with no problems, just a normal service every 10k.
As a boy rc planes were an impossible dream it was either free flight rubber powered or saving up for a couple of years to buy a diesel motor for control line. Now I have half a dozen mostly foam aircraft that fly really well with telemetry on my £130 transmitter including a £13 vario that gives me vertical speed indication audibly just like the full size gliders I used to fly, a sub £10 battery sensor that tells me the state of each cell of the flight battery and a tiny gps unit in a flying wing just for fun to see how fast it's going and how high.
|Thread: Longest build?|
Hi everyone, last year I unpacked the remains of a boat I started 30 years ago. I had completed the hull and basic superstructure and had a go at painting it. Apart from putting it in the bath it never went any further. It was put in a dustbin liner and kept in the loft, six house moves later it was looking a little battered. I found the original magazines but not the plan.
Once I'd replaced the lost bits it was time to try it out.
Next up is to try and add most of the missing bits and maybe even take it to the local lake.
|Thread: Building the topsail schooner Julia|
Exquisite modelling Bob, it's a pity they are not appreciated as much as they should. I'd be really proud if I could make a model of that quality.
|Thread: lifepop4 batterys|
I too sruggled to charge my battery when it arrived, I have an old sigma 2 that I use and although it lists LiFe I couldn't find it as an option scrolling through the menus. I had to go into the setup menu and change the lithium voltage range and then the main menu listed LiFe. It changes the nominal voltage from 3.7 for LiPo to 3,3 for LiFe, and then the charger recognises it has LiFe.
Hi, I checked the spec of my transmitter battery and according to the Hobbyking website it is a LiFePo4. I think the 1c rating is due to the construction and its intended use. I believe the LiFePo4 chemistry doesn't support high discharge rates, the high C ratings are achieved by constructing cells in parallel. I use a lot of LiPo batteries for rc flying and don't feel they are inherently unsafe. I have a number of foam aircraft and these all fly with LiPo batteries. I always balance charge them at 1C and use a discharge rate well within the maximum.
I've just checked my LiFe transmitter battery, it's rated as 1500 mah and 1C discharge. Which explains the fine discharge cables as you can only expect 1.5 amp discharge rate, I guess it depends on your motor and boat size.
Dave, many many thanks for the spraymount tip. I can't imagine how dreadful a mess I would have made without that tip. I was a little short in my estimate of epoxy required but all being well I should get a second coat before the temperature returns to normal.
Thanks for responding Dave and Ron,
The 25gm fg was intended to repair a plane but I didn't bother in the end. Dave, using spray mount rather than laying the glass over a layer of epoxy resin, does this result in less chance of pulling the weave out or is it just an easier way to apply the cloth? I'll look out for the article, although I'd like to get it done while the weather is reasonably warm
|Thread: James Piper.|
Hi Nick, alternative names are linden or lime wood. I've seen it at SLES in the uk,
Hi, some progress on my first wooden boat build.which leads to my next newbie question. I'm about ready to apply some 24gm fibreglass using west epoxy. Do I remove part that would overlap on the bow or just slit it and overlap to give a bit of extra 'crash' protection? I guess I'll have the same issue at the stern. The skeg is ready to fit and I plan to slip that in place while the resin is still green and epoxy that in place.
Thanks for replying Malcolm, I thought it wasn't a new problem and I'm glad the obvious solution is the generally accepted one.
The second question relates to fitting the prop shaft. As it's as thick as the keel I'll need to split t keel, do I do it before fitting bulkheads or after stringers are in place. Presume I need to effectively box the shaft so the two halves of the keel are connected, any tips gratefully received.
I think the initial problems are quite generic, the first relates the position of the prop shaft, on the plan it is parallel to the waterline but being shallow draft it is almost resting on top of the keel it gives me the option of notching the keel to allow a gear/belt drive or tilting it at an angle to get the clearance. I'll set up an album to show what I mean.
Edited By Gary Hill 1 on 20/07/2018 10:29:20
H, I've just joined the forum having lurked for a couple of months. I'm a sometime aero modeller who built a boat in 1987 from a magazine plan from a mouldier hull and styrene sheet. It reached the bath stage then I realised I didn't know where to sail it so it got put in the loft and moved from home to home, but I recently repaired it ready to try again now I've retired. Having lurked her for a while I decided to build another, this time a TID tug from a Sarik plan and set of laser cut parts, having just received the parts I now have some queries. I'll take a couple of photos to illustrate by problems, should I post them here under beginners or elsewhere?
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