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Member postings for Eddie Lancaster

Here is a list of all the postings Eddie Lancaster has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
05/07/2021 19:03:44

The first layer of planks have now all been fitted to the frames.

img_1196.jpg

img_1197.jpg

A few places needed to be filled with some thin balsa and sanded back to give a level surface for the top layer of planks.

img_1198.jpg

Eddie.

Thread: MV Stability (1949) - F T Everard & Sons
30/06/2021 17:12:29

Hi. Ray, don’t get too high on that stuff, we don’t want it bannedsad.

See what I mean about different ideas when building?

Regards.

Eddie.

29/06/2021 17:47:50

Looking good Ray, please keep us informed, every build is different in some way.

Regards.

Eddie.

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
29/06/2021 17:28:41

Is it raining? Or have you got a sprinkler aimed at the window?wink.

I have allowed for a second layer at the bow, but I might cut the ends of the first layer back to the first frame, this frame is solid so would leave a cavity that if water got in there will be no way out for it, a balsa block there would fill the space and give a good base for the top layer of planks.

You are right I do like the challenge that planking presents, I am hoping that this one will be good enough not to have to cover up.

Regards.

Eddie, in sunny Northants.

29/06/2021 15:36:37

Hi.Ray, I hadn’t thought about a single layer, I will have to see how it looks when the first layer is finished.

I was thinking that a second 1.5mm. thick layer would make sure all the joints in the first layer were covered and I would have a good base for the second layer to fix to, and I am hoping to get a scale finish to the hull, with the planks and joints showing through the paint finish.

Regards.

Eddie.

29/06/2021 13:39:03

Hi,All, The first layer of planking is now coming along after I had considered the options. The first was to use 1/32" ply as the base for balsa planking, as I did when I built Veronica, but I had some 1mm. x 5mm. bass strips left over from deck planking, after trying this at the bow and stern, getting it around the quite sharp bend at the bow proved to be fairly easy, after wetting the ouside of the strip and tapering it so that it followed the shape set by the frames.

The stern is fairly gentle curve.

img_1188 jpg

The bow is consderably more rounded, but the dampened and tapered strips can be persauded to conform to the curve. Bass wood is close grained and doesn't split when pinned to the frames.

img_1192.jpg

img_1189.jpg

img_1190.jpg

The main length of the strip then lays easily across the frames.

The top layer of planking will be of 1.5mm. x 6mm. bass wood, I will have to make a couple of jigs to form the curve needed at the bow after boiling the plank ends for a couple of minutes and clamping to the jigs and allowed to dry over night.

Regards.,

Eddie.

29/06/2021 13:39:01

Hi,All, The first layer of planking is now coming along after I had considered the options. The first was to use 1/32" ply as the base for balsa planking, as I did when I built Veronica, but I had some 1mm. x 5mm. bass strips left over from deck planking, after trying this at the bow and stern, getting it around the quite sharp bend at the bow proved to be fairly easy, after wetting the ouside of the strip and tapering it so that it followed the shape set by the frames.

The stern is fairly gentle curve.

img_1188 jpg

The bow is consderably more rounded, but the dampened and tapered strips can be persauded to conform to the curve. Bass wood is close grained and doesn't split when pinned to the frames.

img_1192.jpg

img_1189.jpg

img_1190.jpg

The main length of the strip then lays easily across the frames.

The top layer of planking will be of 1.5mm. x 6mm. bass wood, I will have to make a couple of jigs to form the curve needed at the bow after boiling the plank ends for a couple of minutes and clamping to the jigs and allowed to dry over night.

Regards.,

Eddie.

Thread: MV Stability (1949) - F T Everard & Sons
28/06/2021 14:35:32

The on the water weight of my spruce planked IOM is 4500 grams, the bare hull of the balsa one is just on the 1000 grams, add the fin and keel bulb, another 2500 grams, 50 grams for the rudder, that totals 3550 grams giving me 450 grams for the radio, rigging and sails so it should be around the 4000 grams minimum weight.

Regards.

Eddie.

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
25/06/2021 20:02:55

All the frames are now fitted with the inwales and chines fitted.img_1183.jpgimg_1184.jpg

Everything appears to be fair and central to the keel, the next decision is the planking, what material and size to use, I will experiment with what I have in the ' I might need that one day ' box.

That left side chine is not really bent, it is just the angle of the photo.

Eddie.

Thread: MV Stability (1949) - F T Everard & Sons
25/06/2021 09:59:12

Hi.Ray, that’s a nice looking boat, I like Jim’s choice of boats to model and the simplicity of them, and at a size that you can add some detail and still have a boat you can handle.

BTW you say that I am fast out of the blocks😁.

Regards.

Eddie.

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
23/06/2021 17:37:37

Hi.Ray, the tug that I built a few years ago and the fishing boat that I built last year in lockdown were both built with half frames and both appear to be OK, they don’t just go round in circles.

I’m hoping for a bit more warm and dry weather as I have yet to finish painting the second IOM.

Regards.

Eddie.

23/06/2021 13:47:29

The first frame has now been fitted and glued in position, I have chosen one of the larger frames as it is easier to set it square across the keel, vertical and each side the same distance off the building board, I will use this frame to set all the others by sighting across the top and by measureing each one, so it has to be right.

img_1167.jpg

Eddie.

21/06/2021 21:24:19

I have now fitted the keel to the building board, using four triangular pieces of wood to support and keep the bow and stern posts vertical, as there are no details for building a model I have marked all the main points of the barge on the keel, the hatch ends, the mast and the projected C of G, this will let me move some of the frames to the best positions for the construction of the model. Most of the frames are concentrated at the bow and stern to get the correct profile, the centre of a barge is a large rectangular box.

img_1163.jpgimg_1166.jpg

The frames are just dry fitted at the moment so that I can see if they are fair.

img_1162.jpg

A thin spline shows that the sheer appears to be OK., with it touching the top of each frame under its own weight.

Eddie.

Edited By Eddie Lancaster on 21/06/2021 21:26:26

Thread: Moonbeam - a novice's attempt
21/06/2021 16:42:06

Sorry Ray, but not my idea, it came from Gary Webb of Bearospaceindustries with one of his designs.

Eddie.

21/06/2021 16:41:06

Sorry Ray, but not my idea, it came from Gary Webb of Bearospaceindustries with one of his designs.

Eddie.

21/06/2021 13:57:48

Hi.George, is this what you are looking for?

img_1169.jpgimg_1168.jpg

A little pull out tray for the reciever.

img_1170.jpg

And another for the battery.

Regards.

Eddie.

Edited By Eddie Lancaster on 21/06/2021 13:59:03

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
21/06/2021 10:44:21

Hi. Ray, thanks for that info, the fin that I am going to repurpose is 3 3/4" wide with a balsa core covered with two layers of carbon fibre set in epoxy resin, it was too flexible for the IOM that it was made for but should be fine for the barge when cut down by 5".

I have calculated the C of G from the Veronica drawings and the leading edge of the fin will be around 1" back from the mast, so hopefully about right .

How was your trip to Hastings, and did you get some photo's for future projects?

Regards.

Eddie

20/06/2021 08:48:03

Hi. Ray, you must be a mind reader, that was going to be my next question to you, I am going to use a spare fin that I have for an IOM, and then adjust the length and weight to suit, so the size that you are using will be a great help.

Dave, I am happy to continue with a build blog, as long as others don’t mind.

Regards.

Eddie.

19/06/2021 22:14:57

With the recent wet weather I have been able to make a start on Westmoreland sooner than planned, and I have just noticed my latest senior moment, when I called the TSB Moreland, this was the name Richard Chesney gave his modelfrown.

I now have a keel and a full set of frames, it's good to have the right tools to do each job,it makes life so much easier with a bandsaw and scroll saw.

img_1159.jpg

The frames are 1/8 thick ply that was in stock. Working from the enlarged plans I photocopied the frame drawings to give me one copy per frame, I cut the frame pattern out by folding the drawing in half on the centre line which ensured that both sides were the same, these were then glued to the ply using Pritt Stick glue.

The problem with enlarging a drawing is that you also enlarge the thickness of the lines, to more than 1/16" on my drawings,and you also enlarge any slight discrepancies in the original drawing, in this case by X3, I found this out by some of the frames not lying fair on the keel, checking them against the the side elevation drawing I was able to rectify the problem, and without having to make any new frames.

Next the keel will be set up on the buiding board and the frames glued in place.

Eddie.

17/06/2021 08:00:07

The drawings are for Eastwood’s Moreland.

Eddie.

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