Here is a list of all the postings Guido Sambucetti has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Royal Navy uniforms|
Hello everyone! I´m considereing building a diorama to include a waterline model of HMS Beagle during one of her trips to South America in the 1830´s. Of course being a diorama it should include some crew, but how should they be dressed? Can someone suggest a source of information about Royal Navy uniforms for that period?
|Thread: John Lambert plans|
Thank you, Colin. It was sad news indeed, from the humane point of view. I had the pleasure of corresponding with him several times and he was always very polite and glad to help. As you say it's wait and see now, and hope for the best.
|Thread: Robbe F14 accessory replacement|
As simple as that? Really?? Well, I think It's worth the risk of burning my fingers after all!
Just a couple of questions, out of sheer ignorance and due not living int he UK (so I can buy the right components): what's the meaning of "SPCO" relay? And I assume the diode code should also be in accordance withe the coil voltage?
|Thread: John Lambert plans|
Good evening, everyone!
I'Ve just found out that prolific draughtsman John Lambert passed away early this year. I've used his plans on many an occasion before, and have baught most of his books too.
Does anybody know if the plans are still selling? His webpage says the familiy don't, but maybe some company bought the rights.
|Thread: Robbe F14 accessory replacement|
Many thanks for both your quick replies!
Tim: that's what I want to do, but as the Robbe devices are no longer available I need to find a replacement.
Dave: you're right, surely there's no need for original Robbe parts, but I'm at loss as what to buy, as compatibility issues may arise.
On the Tx side I've a Multi-Switch Module (3x on-off, 2 fwd-off-rev and one momentary switch). On the receiver side there's a Decoder (F1513). For the specific case of the depth charge throwers I only need the motor to turn in one direction (it will turne two drums much like in a music box, the pins on the drums acting like triggers for sping-loaded pins that in turn will shoot the charges overboard).
There's no need for end-switches either, as in case of "too much turn" it would simply trigger empty throwers.
The two-direction turn with end switches sound very intereting too, but that would be for the following project.
I have an old F14 Navy radio bought many years ago in preparation for a model -yet to come- that would feature a lot of functional marvels. I also have a Matchbox Flower Class I would like to make RC, adding a mechanism to fire the depth charge throwers. The F14 would be too much for this but it would be better in the Flower than rusting in its box. But I found a problem.
The said mechanism will be driven by a 1.5v motor. This, in turn, I planned to connect to the Multiswitch Decoder (a device that expands one channel from the receiver into six functions). But I found that I can't wire the motor directly to the Decoder. I need a relay unit. But Robbe is out of business and this product in particular has proved impossible to find.
Can any of you advise me on finding a replacement? Something easy to connect and use? I don't have the eyesight nor the steady pulse to solder wires into tiny connectors, nor the knowledge to understand the technicla lingo I ran into while trying to find one myself.
Thank you very much!
|Thread: 1/72 LST|
Great build! Really nice! So you say this is a 1/72 model? Were did you get the Carleys? I´ve been trying to find some commercial supplier but what I´ve seen is too expensive... One detail only I would point out, if I may... the pictures showing the deckload of lorries and halftracks... they´re pointing the wrong way!! You should correct that in your games, or you´ll be giving the enemy lots of time before you can unload them!!
|Thread: formula for figuring out hull/pennant number height?|
This may come a little late, though I hope not. Following Paul´s advice about looking at Fairmile Ds, their hull numbers were 375mm high and 300mm wide, according to John Lambert´s book.
I suppose it would be quite hard to paint them individually, so you may want to try Becc Flags. They make self adhesive lettering (they have Royal Navy pennant numbers) to different sizes. Just google them and you´ll get the link.
|Thread: Painting water|
Wow, that´s a lot of information on Vallejo! I´ve followed the link you sent and it´s quite interesting, I hope to find some retailer here, although there aren´t many in all.
I´ve made some sample painting and hadn´t any mayor problems, probably the key is to leave the coats to dry for a day before covering with a different paint. I´m in no hurry so I can perfectly afford that. I was more concerned with long-term issues, as you say. Initially I thought about using tinted polyester resin, which when dry assumes a nice softly waved pattern, with a gloss finish. But I checked an old sample (about three years old) and found that it was now yellowish. Ok, the sample was about 1" deep, and what I would use now would hardly be deeper than a couple of millimiters so that effect might not be noticeable.
As you mentioned also I have searched several model railroad sites and found there are several products available, but those are very difficult to import (by individuals). Books and magazines are no problem so I bought several and they form the basis of my research. I may be lucky with the Vallejo range, though. The importer is not far from my home and once Carnival holidays are over I´ll pay them a visit and see what I can find.
Cheers, and thanks for the info!
Thanks for your responses.
The reason why I´m alternating coats of paint and varnish is that several articles I read say that this technique adds "depth" to the final effect. Just yesterday I found another articel that used just one shade of paint, like painting a model, and then polyurethane varnish on top. The photos looked good enough, so maybe I´ll give that method a try next time.
The Vallejo range I have never used before. I´ll see if I can find a stockist, Royal Mail shipping restrictions and my onw country´s import restrictions make it almost impossible to buy overseas.
I´m building a static model of SS Earl Sigurd, a small Orkney steam ferry, to be displayed moored to a pier.
This is my first attempt at modelling water, so I tried to look in as many places as I could to find out about different techniques for sculpting the surface and, mainly, for painting it.
I chose the method of painting with acrylics, alternating coats of diluted blues and greens with acrylic varnish. However, I´m not satisfied with the "shine". I thought about replacing the acrylic varnish with Humbrol Gloss Cote, but I´m not sure if can again paint with acrylics on top of it. Are they compatible or they shouldn´t be used in the same scheme?
Thank you all!
|Thread: Interesting link|
Probably this post would be of interest to static modellers, but I decided to place it here to give it a wider broadcast.
I found this link to a Spanish site, it contains a scan of the Signal Book belonging to HMS Medusa, of 1796. Unfortunately it´s only a black and white scan, but probably some of you will know where to find out what the colours were.
I hope it will be useful.
Cheers, and happy modelling!
|Thread: Plastic magic and LiPo batteries, chargers, etc...|
Well, thanks a lot for your advice. As you say, it´s not always indispensable to spend a lot of money for a modification so I´ll stick to good old NiMhs. I´ve soldered bateries before with good -albeit not too tidy- results and they are really efficient. I suppose I´ve let myself being dazzled by new hi-tech, haha!
But I still have to find the courage to dismember a servo for its components, though! I´ll try it one of these days and let you know what comes of it.
Many years ago I transitioned into this hobby from my youth´s kit model building. I still have several unassembled kits with which I loathed to depart, somehow expecting to find one day a way of installing some form of RC in them and see them sailing as I dreamed to in bygone years...
And after reading Tony Dalton´s article on his experience in motorizing a Baby Bismarck I saw a way of finally turning my old fantasies into realities and, after a few seconds of running in circles like that cartoon bear that didn´t know what to do next, I sat down and read the article over again, with greater attention to details and my notebook at hand to find out more information on the components needed and (being a NiMh guy) several doubts sprang to my mind, as follows:
LiPo´s seem to have much more capacity than NiMh but in one post I read that someone kept them in a fire-proof bag while charging and someone else installing alarm lights for low battery in his ships. Are they really that dangerous?
What special abilities are needed when soldering battery tabs to their wire?
Will a NiMh charger suit them or do they need a specific one?
I´d really thank any advice on these, as I have the impression that LiPos mean, maybe, too big a change.
|Thread: LULONGA RIVER BOAT|
I don´t know if you are still building Lulonga or if you´ve finished her, but I found this information that may be useful: somewhere I found a someone´s comment about having used rc tank gearboxes to drive his own Lulonga, and suggested the Mato Toys company. Under the link "Metal upgrade tank parts" you will find twin drive gearboxes for most of the models they sell. This is an example:
**LINK** version 3:1 Brass gearbox for 1/16 Henglong Tiger 1 tank (short shaft)&cate1=1:16 German Tiger 1 tank&pid=54&cid=&search=
Tamiya also manufactures one, but it´s rather expensive. You can find it on ebay.
I hope this is of help. Cheers!!
|Thread: Artilleriefaehrprahm Plans needed|
Never say never! I`ve been on the same quest for a long time with similar dissapointing results, but maybe by combining efforts we can get somewhere! Try these:
They may be not cheap, but as far as I see the hull is the same, and the grafics pointed by Francis provide excellent deck arrangementes. Maybe we can fill in the details with some educated guesses.
Some time ago I also found the Bundesarchiv Koblenz have a website and a few pictures uploaded. Follow this link and browse the 42 pages, I recall having seen one or two pics of fahrprahms (not artillerträger, though) which may be of some help.
Cheers, maybe I´ll dig out my old project too!!
|Thread: OO scale figures|
Oh, forgot to say, they also do some O gauge figures (1/32nd?)
I´m not sure if this post is ok with the forum rules so I hope the Moderator doesn´t need to delete it. If so, I appologize! It´s just about another source of scale figures (to which I´m not related!)
I´ve been building model ships in 1/72 for some time and, as I like to crew them, I have always resorted to Preiser, Revell and recast Matchbox or Airfix figures. When I needed civilian people Dapol or Langley sometimes where of some help, but I found the range rather sparse... Some time ago I noticed a new (to me) firm in a model railroad magazine and gave it a try.
It´s called Dart Castings. Figures are sold individually (so you don´t have to buy a box of 40 to use maybe 10), poses are very natural (though a little railroad-biased, of course) and quality is excellent. The only con is that, being a family owned company, they are sometimes overwhelmed by demand so your order may take some time to be fulfilled, but you will by advised if so. In may case I have always got my orders within the month,usually in 10 days (I live in Argentina).
So, if you´re looking for some variety in your model´s crew or passengers, I suggest you visit their website and check what´s on offer.
Cheers, and happy modelling!
|Thread: 1:128 scale etched brass railing|
You can also try James Lane. His address is 30 Broadway, Blyth, Northumberland NE24 2PP. No website, sadly. He makes round stanchions in 1/128. Though I never tried this scale, I´ve used his 1/72 ones and I´m very happy with the result.
|Thread: ship's guns|
Phil´s right, John Lambert has probably the largest selection of naval weapons. His drawings L/O/04 (2pdr single) and L/O/48 (among many things, the 2" rocket projector) may be just what you are looking for. If you have difficulty in identifying the pom pom mark you can always contact him and send him a copy of the actual photo you are using, and he will know.
Best of luck!
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