Here is a list of all the postings Chris Fellows has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Building Ardent|
I bought a Record which is very similar. As you say fitting the blades is a little fiddly especially when putting through a pilot hole for cutting out internal shapes!
I have tried some pinless blades - Olson double tooth/crown tooth for less ripping - but found that they were a bit fine for cutting the 6 mm ply I was using for the keel etc. though well within their capabilities They will be better for thinner ply but to be honest the thicker pinned blades are fine, not much ripping and do the radii required no problem.
Whilst fitting the pinless blades into their mounting blocks wasn't difficult for using them for cutting along the axis of the saw it is more difficult when turning the blade sideways for cutting long lengths like for the keel. As I said not a problem though as the pinned blades are fine.
I'm at a similar stage and will soon be mounting the keel on a building board. I've added some "fingers" to the keel and spine for screwing to a substantial piece of timber which will be screwed to the mounting board. Likewise I've added the chine lines to the frames along with a horizontal datum line to help with accurate alignment.
Good to hear that you are making progress.
Funnily enough I recently bought a scroll saw which my wife said could be my Christmas present. This was fair enough as I've added a few other tools since as well!
Scroll saws are brilliant for cutting out the frames etc. Another "essential" is various Permagrit tools!
|Thread: Fairey 23 River Cruiser|
As building of my Swordsman and commencement of building of my Huntsman 28 has been curtailed for the time being, due to my workshop (smallest bedroom!) being temporarily out of action what with it being filled with boxes etc. from the spare bedroom so that it could be used for guests over the festive season and wanting to do something model boat related I thought I'd return to the drawing board or rather the PC.
Continuing with the Fairey theme but I wanted to do something a little different and so decided to start drawing up plans for the 23 foot river cruiser. Only one boat, the prototype, was built by Fairey and it never went into production.
The hull was based on the Huntress but with a less deep vee as a deep vee isn't required for the more sedate and calmer river cruising and will produce less wash.
I've attached a screen shot of the side view - I need to increase the freeboard though as it doesn't look quite right and realised that this needs to be done to compensate for the depth lost by reducing the vee as otherwise it would have been difficult to find room for the engine etc. in the full size boat.
Once this has been done I can crack on with producing the frames etc.
The river cruiser doesn't have the elegant lines of the seagoing Faireys due to the rather dumpy looking rear cabin but I like it because it is different and I have more of an affinity with cruisers having done quite a bit of river cruising and a trip on the Norfolk Broads in my younger days.
|Thread: Fairey Huntress Winter Special 2017|
Edited By Chris Fellows on 21/12/2017 20:35:28
Edited By Chris Fellows on 21/12/2017 20:38:48
Derek - You're making good progress and it's looking mighty fine.
Is the whole of the hull skinned in ply or have you used balsa block at the bow?
Edited By Chris Fellows on 20/12/2017 22:08:23
|Thread: Spanish Fishing Boat Designed by JP|
Eddie just an idea. Trace the half bulkheads/frames using tracing paper including a centre line. You can then just flip it over when tranferring to the ply. Might be quicker and easier than plotting onto the ply.
Ray, are you going to use doublers where the rudder tube coincides with one of the frames?
Edited By Chris Fellows on 18/12/2017 17:34:10
|Thread: Sea Queen Water Line|
Ray, I can see why Andy is asking for a dimension at the front though as the waterline isn't parallel to anything.
Obviousy it could be worked out by ratios vertically where the front of the cabin meets the deck.
|Thread: Running on|
Dave, thanks I'll bear that in mind. And you're right there!
Thanks Dave, I'll do that then.
That's one of the advantages of coming to this hobby late, all this great tech. and 2.4 GHz Tx etc!
Oh, and brushless motors.
Edited By Chris Fellows on 14/12/2017 13:45:28
That's an interesting piece of kit Dave. What do you do if you have an ESC like the Hawk ones where you set the number of cells? Do you still have to do that?
|Thread: Private messages|
There's not much else being posted!
|Thread: Tyne Class Lifeboat|
As per your other thread it sounds as though you have decided not to follow the designers instructions!
Fair enough that you have decided to add some timber frames but if these are not part of the design/plans how did you obtain the shapes?
How big are the gaps and are they symmetrical to both sides of the hull? If it was me I'd make some templates out of card first and once you've got a good fit then make them in timber.
By the way my Permagrit files arrived and I've given them a go. They certainly are good and make life much easier. Much better than wrapping sandpaper around bits of wood or using normal files.
Edited By Chris Fellows on 09/12/2017 23:12:09
|Thread: Todays Boating|
I doubt I will Tim. Yes, the rotary tools were calling me as well but I managed to resist!
I need to leave it for a little time as my wife has uttered "Another package has arrived for you today" quite a lot recently in that what have you bought now tone!
|Thread: What to build next?|
Edited By Chris Fellows on 30/11/2017 16:50:43
As a beginner it's easy for me.
The first boat I bought was a Fairey Huntsman 31 at 1:8 scale (already built) and like Dave, Faireys have drawn me in.
I currently have Swordsman 33 and Huntsman 28 builds under way (well just started!) and will then build a Huntsman 31.
That will keep me going for awhile but after that who knows?
|Thread: Fairey Huntress Winter Special 2017|
I picked mine up from SLEC as well, from the show on Friday.
You'd think, that being made from laminations that it would stay flat, though of course the thinner boards have less plies.
I have read of flattening the boards by using an iron and a damp cloth which I might try if required once I've cut out the bulkheads.
Be interested in seeing some photos as you progress.
Edited By Chris Fellows on 13/11/2017 23:17:55
Thanks Dave. The straight line was just me testing the saw by cutting off a length of ply. Obviously there are some straight lines to be cut but also many curved. I weighed up the pros and cons of a scroll saw versus a band saw and came down on the side of the scroll saw, certainly for now.
And for the straight lines I shall make one of your sanding tools.
Part of my leaning towards thicker ply is that my 4mm sheets are a bit bowed. I shall be selective as to which pieces I use!
Derek - out of interest what thickness of ply are you using for the bulkheads. My Swordsman at 1:12 is not far off the size of your Huntress. I was going to use 4mm but it seems a bit flimsy so will increase to 6mm as per my 46.5" Huntsman. I'm not too bothered about the weight as I have a powerful motor and don't want warp speeds like Harry.
Edited By Chris Fellows on 13/11/2017 19:28:46
|Thread: Todays Boating|
Edited By Chris Fellows on 11/11/2017 21:52:36
Edited By Chris Fellows on 11/11/2017 21:53:26
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