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Member postings for Chris Fellows

Here is a list of all the postings Chris Fellows has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
24/11/2020 17:13:06

Thanks Ray

Yes, as well as stopping the wet stuff it's needed for fitting the superstructure against. But I did actually think ahead this time smiley as it made it easier to fit the planking pieces first and sand the internal edges flush and get the height of the upstand right.


24/11/2020 10:43:01

Thanks George for your kind comments, worth the effort in the end.

My plan to varnish the planking and edgings before gluing the planking down in case glue got on the surface backfired a bit. Good idea on the planking as so thin but not really necessary on the mahogany and I had to sand it off along each side to glue the toe rails on! And I've done all three hulls! To be fair I hadn't decided whether I was going to fit them or not at the time. Another lesson learnt.


Thread: Returning modeller
23/11/2020 18:45:57


I did read on another forum that he is very busy. Having said that, it is now a long time since you ordered.


Thread: Fittings For 1/12 RNLI Arun
22/11/2020 19:28:46

That's an easy one Mark. Call the full-size one 72 feet and that gives a scale of 1:12 and therefore the width is 18 inches.

That will be a big heavy model!


Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
22/11/2020 18:58:01

I'd decided early on that I was going to do the transom area separately and that was what I did today. First job was to fit a piece of 0.8mm ply as used for the previous planking as a sub-base to match the construction and give the correct overall thickness. In fact it was done in two pieces as I'm really scraping the barrel now with the offcuts. This was glued down with A/resin. No CA today, hooray!

Once that was dry I carried out the planking. To be honest this is the only part of the whole planking process that I've really enjoyed though I have had satisfaction as various stages have been completed like the mahogany edging. It's been a bit of a slog and quite a lot of work, even though it might not look it, not helped by doing three at once!

But it's a means to an end and I guess that most of us have aspects of builds that we don't enjoy that much but have to be done?

I shall do the transom area to the Huntsman 31 tomorrow, which should be a breeze with her petite derriere compared with the lardy ar*e of the Swordsman!


planking 8

planking 9

planking 10

planking 11

planking 12

22/11/2020 18:37:56

Well, the day of reckoning came for gluing the planking down, which as I said previously I was itching to do but on the other hand wasn't looking forward to! Reason being that the 0.5mm and 0.8mm ply laminate was quite stiff after gluing together and I wasn't able to clamp the bow area. Even along the sides it was difficult to get the clamps near the edge. In addition I'd used some P38 to fill hollows in the bow area which I doubt A/resin will stick very well to.

So I used contact adhesive to the bow area which I held in place by hand. Once this had gripped I lifted the side piece carefully and applied A/resin all the way to the transom. Started to panic a bit as I was clamping in place as you don't have too long before the glue starts going off and have to ensure that the pieces are in the correct position as you clamp. Once this was done I noticed that the edges were lifting in places as the clamps couldn't quite reach so I used some thin CA to hold them down.

planking 6

planking 7

Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
16/11/2020 18:21:40

I've left the easiest hull to fit the rubbing strips to until last. Flat deck, smaller section mahogany and no rounded bow. Preliminary sanding carried out.


rubbing strips 1

rubbing strips 2

Thread: My Time Media. Model Boats Magazine.
14/11/2020 22:15:25

NZ yeah! Spent 5 weeks touring there 3.5 years ago and despite having boring hire cars absolutely loved it. Wished I'd got the TT or a bike there though. Also loved the sense of freedom.




Edited By Chris Fellows on 14/11/2020 22:23:45

14/11/2020 21:06:46

Whilst I'm a newcomer to model boats, well any RC, I can fully understand what you are saying about the best days being over. I'm interested in cars and motorbikes as well and have said many times that I've been lucky to have lived through the time of the best IC engines before they have been strangled by increasingly stricter emissions regulations and I understand their need.

My Triumph motorbikes have lovely twin and triple engines, some with carbs and my Audi TT a gem of a 2.0 turbo petrol engine and these machines aren't going anywhere as I shall enjoy them for as long as I can. After a succession of diesels which I liked for their effortless performance our practical car now also has a 2.0 turbo petrol engine as I was determined to have a last one before being forced into a hybrid or electric.

As Ray says, electric is souless (though boats are impressive and do have a sound to them) - I went to a hill climb once where some electric bikes were going up, it was completely wrong with no exhaust noise and gear changes, totally boring! Don't get me started on Formula E car racing!

And my BIL has a Tesla. Fantastic acceleration, but that's it. Can't imagine car meets and rallies in the future!

Dinosaur Chris


Edited By Chris Fellows on 14/11/2020 21:10:23

Thread: Fairey Huntsman 31
14/11/2020 17:22:56

Next job was fitting the rubbing strips. Having joined those at the bow on the Swordsman I thought I'd make it easier for myself by having the curve of the bow in the middle of a strip rather than at the ends of two strips with a scarf joint to boot.

It was easier but I didn't get the strip as tight to the bow as I did with the Swordsman so am going to have to resort to a bit of filler. Just need some more sanding to remove glue marks and round off the edges and they will be ready for a coat of varnish before gluing down the planking.


rubbing strip 1.jpg

rubbing strip 2.jpg

rubbing strip 4.jpg

rubbing strip 5.jpg

Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
14/11/2020 15:46:56

Yes, my wife, now retired, used to say that to me! blush


Thread: Tempted by a big Fairey
13/11/2020 10:47:55

Hi George

Precedent also did a 1:11 scale at 34" version which would be ideal, in both timber and GRP hulls, which come up from time to time.

Or do as I'm doing, scratch build one at 1:12, 31". There are plans available though I drew my own to suit my method of building.


Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
13/11/2020 10:31:27

Thanks Tim.

Before gluing the planking in place (even though I'm itching to do so!) I've given it 2 coats of varnish and the edgings 1 coat to give it protection from glue marks. The planking being only 0.5mm, well less now after a couple of sandings, doesn't have enough meat for more if glue gets on it.

I did buy some Ronseal Interior Matt varnish for the planking - I know it says Interior but also that it resists household chemicals so I reasoned that water wouldn't be a problem! But having read that gloss varnish can be made more matt by brushing on and then wiping off I decided to use my favourite International Paints Schooner tung oil which definitely resists water. It has a nice honey colour to it when used on light timber. Only downside it does take awhile to dry completely and whilst dry overnight I shall leave for a couple of days before gluing as I need to hold/clamp it down to the sub-deck.

I've got the rubbing strips to fit to the other 2 hulls anyway.


planking 4

planking 5

Thread: Tempted by a big Fairey
12/11/2020 10:14:27

Hi George

I wondered about the filler as well. Some around the bow would be acceptable if balsa blocks had been used (though not part of the Precedent build instructions) and so would be wary of it being used elsewhere unless it's for filling grain.

I found mine too big, particularly moving around the house, up and down stairs etc. and sold it to a fellow club member who already has one. They look good on the water (and smaller!) and it goes very well now having been fitted with a brushless motor.



Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
11/11/2020 18:27:58

Gave the planking another sand and it didn't look too bad and thought I could hide the defects on the port side with some deck furniture. But I then filled a couple of depressions and after sanding noticed I'd gone through to the ply on the edge. sad

Gave it a coat of varnish and the overall effect looks good but I don't think I can live with where I've sanded through in addition to the other defects. I'll set it to one side for the time being but I think I'm going to have to give it another go.

Trouble is I don't have enough 0.8mm ply now and don't want to use anymore of the planks as I need them for the Swordsman rear cabin roof.

At least I've got the other builds to carry on with.



Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
10/11/2020 18:09:30

First job to do with the benefit of the stand was to fit the mahogany rubbing strips. They took some steaming with the kettle, especially to the bow and the transom, the latter having a quite pronounced compound curve.

I had to bring out the big guns for holding the rubbing strip in place at the bow! First time I've used them I think but glad I bought them.

I've used slow cure CA in the past but have had problems with the strips moving slightly whilst being held in place and not being level with the top of the deck. And you don't really want to sand the top down level unless it's a very small amount because with it being a small timber section it looks uneven, well it is! I was so unhappy on a previous build that I took the rubbing strips off, which was not easy, and replaced them.

Method I used here was to clamp in place dry and then use thin CA which by capillary action wicks into the joint. It looks a mess, as you can see at the bow, but it doesn't soak very far into the surface of the mahogany and sands off just fine. For good measure I did run some slow cure CA along the joint on the underside.


rubbing strips 1

rubbing strips 2

Edited By Chris Fellows on 10/11/2020 18:15:56

Thread: John Cobb's Crusader
08/11/2020 22:50:06

There's a good book on Ebay at the moment.


Thread: Todays Boating
08/11/2020 14:07:54

I use an old 27 meg Tx with my Club 500 and I'm going to hang a line and hook off the aerial, there are plenty of fish in our club lake! wink


Big Fish



Edited By Chris Fellows on 08/11/2020 14:10:21

Thread: Solent Spear - A Fairey, but not a Fairey
07/11/2020 18:05:42

It wouldn't be too difficult to produce drawings as I think the Spear, as with the Spearfish, used a hull design based on the Huntsman 31.

So then just a case of producing them for the superstructure and deciding how to go about building it. Some good photos around to help with that. The windows particularly and roof will be a challenge!


Edited By Chris Fellows on 07/11/2020 18:15:55

Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33
07/11/2020 17:54:06

Can't really do much more on the builds until the stands are made and so I set to. I went out and bought a sheet of 9mm MDF (these are only build stands) earlier in the week in case the new lockdown stopped me getting some locally.

I then knocked up a quick drawing using using the bulkhead templates for each end of the stand.

I'd be waiting for dry weather to avoid cutting in the house and so got my Workmate from the shed and jig saw from the garage and cut out the ends and drilled the hole for the prop shaft for the 3 stands and sanded the edges with the good old PermaGrit block.

I didn't have enough dowel for all the stands but then remembered that I'd got an old curtain pole in the garage - I knew it would come in useful one day! I had to retrieve my big DeWalt mitre saw from under the worktop in my workroom/bedroom and carry it downstairs and outside, blimey it's heavy, to cut the dowel to length. I'd tried with a tenon saw and it wasn't bad but you just can't beat the accuracy and squareness of a mitre saw.

Then, being watched by a row of pigeons on the roof, hoping for some seed, I drilled the ends of the dowel and through the end pieces for the fixing screws. Then back to the warmth of the house for assembly. After that I gave the top edges of the stands two coats of Eze-Kote to seal and then applied adhesive backed foam rubber.





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