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Member postings for Chris Fellows

Here is a list of all the postings Chris Fellows has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: JIF 65
08/03/2021 16:12:06
Posted by Malcolm Frary on 08/03/2021 11:12:46:

A pre-made fin will likely be easier to mount than a home build. It will* come with a moulded in fixing rod that goes far enough down the length of the blade to spread its load, and long enough to go through the deck of its DF65, again, spreading the load. With home made, either there is the problem of fixing the rod down the inside of the blade, or extending the blade upwards into a fin box far enough.

I have been tempted in the past to try a helicopter blade, since some have spoken well of them, but haven't plucked up the will to try. Not knowing if they are, or are not, symmetrical or if they vary between types, is one off-put. Understanding the strange techno-babble of heli-folk is another.

* just looked on the ripmax spares page - the fin says "complete with screws" but I take that to mean the ones that fit the weight to the bottom end. No way can a fin just bolt to the boat bottom, it needs more support, either a rod going far enough down the inside of the fin and up through the deck, or a substantial tab at the top sitting in a fin box, with a screw bolt holding it in place from above.

Hi Malcolm

The method that the Dragonforce uses is that the fin is taken up to deck level and is bolted to a combined mast and fin box so the fixing screws are only short.

Chris

07/03/2021 16:59:04

Hi Carl

Another solution, and one I'm probably going to use on a future build, is that you can buy the keel and bulb for the Dragonforce 65 yacht and it strong and smooth.

Last time I looked they were a reasonable price. I suppose it depends on how much you want to build yourself? For me, who generally likes to build as much as I can, I'm not precious about the keel and would be happy to use something much better than I could manage!

Chris

Edit: Just had a look at the RC Yachts web-site and the fin is £6.50 and the weight is £22.20 which might preclude that option.

 

 

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 07/03/2021 17:03:46

Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
07/03/2021 11:30:28

Thanks Neil. I'm sure he won't.

Chris

06/03/2021 20:35:33

To enable the superstructure to be built I first fitted the upstand around the inside of the deck. Drawings were then completed and printed out for the various parts, transferred to birch ply and cut out with the scroll saw.

Edges were then sanded to ensure a good fit between the rear of the cabin and the cabin sides/coamings. A 3 x 12mm timber was glued to the forward face of the rear of the cabin for it to sit on the bulkhead to hold it at the correct height and position whilst it was glued to the sides with Slo Zap.

Chris

superstructure2

superstructure3

superstructure4

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 06/03/2021 20:46:19

06/03/2021 20:22:37

I'm dedicating this build to our dear friend Dave. Not only because it's a Fairey but because Dave was one of the reasons I built it. He and Paul were having some of their usual banter on one of the threads which went along the lines of Paul saying that stern-drives were the best method for providing propulsion for boats and Dave replied that putting a stern-drive on a Fairey would be like putting a moustache on it!

Reading that and wanting to wind Dave up I had a look in my Fairey Marine book and found the perfect boat, a Huntress with a stern-drive. I wanted to build a Huntress anyway and one a bit different, with it's longer cabin and the stern-drive it had to be done. And so drawings were produced and the build began.

I guess it sort of backfired though as Dave never mentioned it, even in our email exchanges and I wasn't going to mention it!!

Chris

Thread: Dave Milbourn RIP
05/03/2021 12:07:39

I was only thinking about him yesterday when working on one of my Fairey builds. Very sad news.

Dave has been a great inspiration to me over the last 3 years or so since I took up the hobby and Faireys in particular and has freely given me advice via the forum and emails and we became friends when myself and my wife visited him and Liz when I bought one of his Huntress prototypes.

As Ray says his contribution to model boats and aircraft over the years has been significant, as has been his articles on building, finishing and electrical. And of course his skills as a model builder.

A great loss and will be sorely missed.

Chris

Thread: Newbie
04/03/2021 22:59:59

There's a guy on the Model Boats web-site who is building the very same boats. He may be able to help! wink

Thread: Chez-When - 34" Sailing Cruiser
04/03/2021 12:55:03

Progressing well (as usual!) Ray.

I might even start the Fisherman soon! blush

Chris

Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer
02/03/2021 13:20:43
Posted by gecon on 25/02/2021 06:53:41:

Thanks gents for the kind words. I must admit that I am pleasantly surprised with overall impression of the Fisher. I hope the last finishing touches will make it a good SOS (stand-off-scale) yacht.

There's been a couple of days delay due to Admiralty ordering a colour change to the sittingroom bulkheads, but I'm still planning for 1st April launch and -I hope- flotation tests...it's displacement is becoming rather significant" (yacht, not Admiralty).

George

You're sailing rather close to the wind there George! smiley

Chris

Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
02/03/2021 11:09:37

Thanks Will.

The deck took some time to glue down and as usual I was filled with trepidation - it's not a job I like at all! Previously I've glued the bow area down with a/resin or contact adhesive if I've used some filler, then the side pieces with a/resin. This means that you can spend time making sure the bow area is bonded down properly, held with parcel tape, and then clamp the side pieces. This time, as I'd bought some Titebond III recently and the instructions said it took 30 minutes to bond I thought I'd use that and do the whole of the deck in one go. Big mistake, after about 10 minutes (warm bedroom/work room) the glue began drying before I could clamp it down properly. There was no going back though so I just had to clamp it as best as I could and leave it.

Next morning I found that it was pretty well bonded over most of the area but the rear edge of the bow and parts of the edges to the sides hadn't taken and had significant gaps and in some places were filled with hardened glue. So I then spent some time getting the glue out with a Stanley knife to get the deck to sit down as tightly as I could get it. Slo Zap was then run into the gaps and clamped in position. The result was pretty good, though in a few places the decking was sitting slightly above the mahogany edging, due to the hardened Titebond, and there was nothing I could do about it - the planks are only 0.5mm thick so there is a limit to the amount of sanding you can do!

The area of deck adjacent to the transom was then carried out by first cutting out some 0.8mm ply to fit the space and gluing with a/resin. Once dry this was then covered in planks fixed with Super Phatic. Having left to dry for some time I then fitted the mahogany toe rails - these were steamed to the curves (kettle) and glued with thin CA wicked into the joints. The sharp eyed amongst you will notice that I haven't left any gaps at the rear corners for any water on the deck to run out of. This is because this is where the deck stood proud the most and the toe rail disguises it nicely!

Time was also spent in making the battery box, to ensure there is sufficient clearance for the stern drive linkage, opening up the holes in the transom a bit more to provide smooth unhindered operation and making supports for the snake - I've decided to use the inner and outer parts now.

Before I go any further with the installation though I'm going to build the superstructure after which I can do a bath test and see how the battery position looks.

Chris

planking8

Thread: Fairey Huntsman - with a difference.
01/03/2021 22:56:21

Most of us are happy amateurs on here Joe!

Lovely build and you have added some nice detailing. Of course we'd like to see more photos and information! It's always interesting and useful for other builders.

What size is it? And what's the hole near the bow?

Chris

 

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 01/03/2021 23:02:24

Thread: Todays Boating
01/03/2021 17:39:15
Posted by Richard Simpson on 01/03/2021 08:59:13:

Ashley I have four outside 500w lights and a total of 11 coach lamps. I’ve changed the floods and most of the coach lights but just can’t quite get my hand in one of the ‘street light’ type units and it’s all rusted up! A project I’ve put off for a number of years now!

Thanks for the link Colin, some very useful stuff there and a lot to take in. I need to do some measuring up and give them a ring, when I get home.

11 coach lamps - blimey Richard you must live in a mansion!

I must replace my sensor operated light at the side of the house that covers the dustbin. Not having a convenient power supply I fitted a solar powered one but it's started playing up. But now that I've replaced the vented tumble drier with a condensing one I have a nice big hole in which to run a cable outside.

Chris

Thread: outlet pipe?
28/02/2021 12:31:27

Yes, that's what I'm aiming to achieve with my builds as far as not requiring cooling is concerned. Also going to use ESCs rated higher than strictly required. Apart from my race boats (two of which are water cooled) I don't tend to run at high speeds continually and the speed is varied so I should be Ok.

Chris

27/02/2021 21:40:11

Would it work under water anyway?

Thread: IOM Boxkite
26/02/2021 16:24:44

Thanks Ian, I'll look at a set when the time comes. Trouble with our lake is that quite often the water level drops and you need taller sails to catch the wind. There is also a line of trees and a hedge nearby so the wind is often all over the place. You can be almost submarining in one place and in the doldrums in another!

Chris

Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
25/02/2021 20:48:28

Hi

I meant Riva builders in my post!

I gave the deck a coat of Schooner varnish this morning and that is now ready for gluing in place.

After doing a bit in the garden I started doing what I've been looking forward to and that's sorting out the steering. Having a good look there's more room than I initially thought and I thought I may be able to use 2mm steel rod linkages so first job was to drill two holes through the transom for them to pass through. I started off small and increased in size so that I didn't cause any damage.

Thoughts of using the brass screw connectors were soon dispelled as they wouldn't fit in. I then tried swivel ball connectors, having opened up the holes even more, which fitted and I like them, but the shoulders were catching on the holes and I didn't really want to make them any larger. So I turned to the nylon snake and thought I'd attach a small length (enough to deal with passing through the hole) to the swivel ball connector with screwed rod and then attaching the linkage rod to the other end. This has the advantage of providing some flexibility where passing through the transom to take account of the arc of the stern drive arms. I've actually left the inner nylon part of the snake quite long at the moment and may even use it all the way to the pivot arm. As I'm using a push pull system I don't really need the outer part of the snake but may use some anyway.

I had thought about putting the pivot arm and servo in the bay in front of the motor but that will be in the way of the battery, which even with the added weight of the stern drive and motor at the rear, will I think need to go in around the usual place but probably a little further forwards. So with that in mind I will position the pivot arm and servo in the cabin area.

Chris

planking7

stern drive 14

stern drive 15

stern drive 16

stern drive 17

Edited By Chris Fellows on 25/02/2021 20:49:44

Thread: IOM Boxkite
25/02/2021 17:17:39

Hi Tim

Good to see some of your work again even if it's not your boat. Bit of a b*gg*r with the paint as it makes more work you hadn't bargained for. It will be as fresh as a daisy once you have finished!

Was going to say nice slippers!

I've got an RG65 class yacht that I use for club racing. Our lake's not that big so doubt I will go for anything bigger. Will probably buy a DF65 and fit an A rig for lighter winds so that I don't have to change suits.

Chris

Thread: A couple of IOM yachts
24/02/2021 21:28:57

Hi Eddie

The hull will look great once it has its final finish as it looks pretty good now!

Chris

Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version
24/02/2021 21:23:23

Thanks Eddie. It's worth the effort in the end!

Chris

24/02/2021 18:37:57

Thanks.

Yes you are right, I'm doing it to please myself and knowing that I could do a better job of it I just had to have another go. Not trying to achieve the perfection that the Diva builders aim for though as that is a whole different ball game!

Well it's not perfect but is better than the first attempt so I'm going to leave it at that as I want to get on with the build now. It's been sanded and is ready for varnishing and gluing down.

No reason why you can't do it Will. Huntress was more difficult as the planks bend all the way to the bow and as I found out is stretching things with this method. With the Huntsman 31 and Swordsman type bows with their mahogany details you can stop the planking short with less bending and using the Super Phatic glue with plenty of clamps it will be pretty straightforward if you take your time. I used thin CA on those decks and the first Huntress one which made it harder. The Super Phatic is ideal as it gives you plenty of working time but then sets in 10 to 20 minutes, cleans off with water but is then waterproof once dry.

The good thing with this method is that you can use clamps, even to the bow area, and if the first attempt isn't good enough then you can have another go as you are doing it off boat.

Chris

Plenty of clamps required!

planking5

planking6

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