Here is a list of all the postings Seaspray has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: how do I work out Ballast|
Mark the boat with a pencil line of the water line / level. Get some lead shot and put it in the small sealable bags. Place in boat in the bath and put sealable bags in your boat to right levels. Some trial and error will happen these bags are in the correct positions. Note you may have to alter the weights if you have to put the superstructure/ cabin back on to the boat. You can then with a little touch of glue attack bags to hull. inside.
|Thread: old but not vintage|
hi Harry check your messages have sent a personal one
|Thread: Battleship by H.P. Wilmott|
Just started to read this book. Not being a great reader of books, I am now on the 5th page and it is becoming an interesting read. It contains loads of information that I didn't realise was there. Thanks M.B.s
|Thread: Summer 2009 Photographic Competition|
|Here is my old model of 30 years
Edited By Seaspray on 26/05/2009 15:25:40
|Thread: Electric Motor Overheating|
Sorry i don't like grease in the propshaft it becomes a drag on the engine. I would strip it and clean it out throughly. Put in an oiler in the shaft so you can oil it pre running. Check you have a little backlash on your shaft by catching the prop and moving it back and forward. on the outer shaft coupled up to the engine You'll see it move or make a small clicking as it hits it's end movements. Also have washers that the nuts run up to on tighten Find you correct backlash and run the prop up to the nut then tighten the prop up to the nut trying not to move the nut upsetting the back lash you have got.
I've seen grease in a prop knock down a O.S. 20 Marine to constant stalling when put in the water.
|Thread: Tinted windows|
Yes any knowledge base is handy. Spent many a hour looking for this and that. Will look up there no, give them a ring. Cheers
|Thread: what battery|
More info needed. sizes off prop(s) motors,and boats What is the motor in her and do you know the current it was using. or if you were happy with 12v 7amps just replace them there only about £13./14
|Thread: Veron Kits|
Ebay would be good ,mind and add postage & packing. Can take a chance and start of at a low bid. Should do well sounds good and all there. You can put a reserve on it if you have a price you want for it.
|Thread: Thoughts Please.|
Have a good look and read the kit reviews in various magazines (including Model Boats ) I am sure the standard of kits and plans has come a long way from those dark ages.
Alternatively if you fancy a certain kit ask on our forum as well as other model boat forums, what that kit quality is like and any building problems.
|Thread: Veron Kits|
I have a Veron Tarpon cruiser from the late 70. I tried to put a link but it didn't work so a search of this forum will find the picture.
Had a hell of a time with it over the years ..my fault due to inexperience. First it was under powered using i.c. engines thinking that the shafts were all misaligned. Over the last few year have refitted the running gear except the original water scoop and rudder, and just yesterday after many many trails and testing she is now ready for the water.
Running a Graupner 600 ECKO on a 8.4 v (J perkings) 2100 mah pack with a (J Perkings) 35 mm 2 blade S type prop. Pulling 7.2 amps in the bath with a good wash behind her. It will drop an amp when moving through the water. Any 20amp ESC will do.
I've had a look at your kit and see that you have the props included as part of the fittings. So you should have the correct props.. Check the build manual to see the fitting of these props are correct.
Try servo reversing on the speed stick its a little switch somewhere on the Tx. see your radio manual.
Try and find the actual problem first it may be on going even with the new props.
Do you have set up your ESC for forward and reverse on the Tx stick (if required).
Is there a R and L prop and are they turning in the right directions. (Contra rotating) or do they turn the same way ?
Is the leading edge of the prop on the blade facing the bow of the boat ? . This direction / not this \
Finally got round to installing iSpell and it is very good easy to use and on the tools tab.
Also use to use the email spell ckecker then copy and paste this is o.k. too.
I would look at running the motors seperately on ESCs. I beleive the cotrollers can be operated together using a Y lead.But find the voltage draw that your 600 requires to make sure your choice of ESCs are high enough rated for the 600 as it draws a good few amps and with two motors twice as much. You can also use two packs together giving you a longer running time but ask how to connect them up as I am not too sure on this.
I use a 8.4v 2100mah J.Perkins pack bought from Westbourne Models gives me 10-15 minutes as s with the 600 ECKO motor.
Lots of controllers out there Mtronics, Action,Astec, and ofcoure Electronize. All good controllers.
You might try and see if you can use lead acids (Gell Cells) instead of stick packs. just a thought as the new Graupner Moonraker uses 3 x700 motors on 2x 6v acids wired in series giving 12 volts with the same amps.
|Thread: Electronic speed controller|
Must agree the choice of ESC is good. Have been looking at Mtronics for sometime now.
There is the MFA site too and a dealer called Model Motors Direct I also bought some motors off Wingertaz on ebay I believe he has a model shop in Blackpool but don't quote me on that.
From hearsay its best to buy electronize products from a model shop if in stock.
Been with the boats for years and even I have to ask and do trails to find a suitable motor for the model being built. I am now a brand man ie I buy Gruapner motors as through the years I tried non branded motors.Theres more than one brand on the market so there is a great choice and with that comes the headaches. there is not a formula for motors/model.Try the 350 sounds good for a balsa hull use a mfa motor mount or robbe so if you have to change the motors it is 2 screws off 2 on. Your club members will offer their ideas on the motor needed and it really is a trail and error thou you could be lucky 1st time. Have a look at the electronize site www.electronize.co.uk they have motor spec/prop/amps and small motors on their site
Update on the motor choice. I have fitted a Graupner Speed 500 Ecko in the Hull. It only draws 2 amps or less on load ( in the bath) doesn't heat up and gives me enough revs to push her through the water.
Ethan Hunt 2
Try Ebay lots of choice there and some model shops now are on it. Might even be your local shop on it.
|Thread: Electronic speed controller|
I get my model boats and fittings and ESC from Westbourne Model Centre,Bournemouth 01202763480 . I ask for Barry he seems to be the boat man there.
Or any good model shop will have a stock of Electronize Speed Controllers
After years of working in assembly of electronics I am prone to buy the ready made unit not the kit. l.o.l
As I said do have a look at the site
I use LRP ESC in the cars
Check out the spec of your motor at the MFA site. Spec might be on the motor label.
The MFA motor drawing 5.3 amps seems to be the Torpedo 800 (12V) rpm 5167 typical current draw.
You can control each motor by its own ESC which needs to cover the 5.1 amps draw on each motor. You can use a larger ESC to run both motors together .But most models I've seen use two ESC running one motor each. You can also use this system to help turn as the motors are indepenant of each other.
Also one fails the other will bring you back to shore. Also look into a ESC with B.E.C I prefer it.
You can also look at these ESCs www.electronize.co.uk site. I've got 4 and they have been no trouble.
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