Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fisher 34 motorsailer|
Having the fin angled back would help. It acts through the centre of gravity of the combined fin and weight. The weight would have to be dropped at the aft end by the same angle. The advantage is that it does not increase the displacement and shifting weight is efficient as it lightens one end by the same amount it makes the other end heavy.
It would also change the centre of lateral resistance but I doubt that is a very critical feature of this arrangement.
Thanks for the photos George
To be honest I was worried about all that weight bolted onto a short section of your main keel. Now I have looked closely at your album I see that the whole inside of the keel is filled with lead shot and epoxy. I am less concerned now but remain just a teeny bit worried because a boat of that displacement can generate quite a lot of energy.
As for hanging it below the waterline, there is a balance between a reasonable and safe amount of stability and a boat that behaves like a lighthouse.
I have to be a bit blunt. For keeping the boat upright I am confident you have cracked it. As for efficiency however, I fear it will be disappointing. Those two flat plates will interact and with the holes and bolts will be very draggy. It will be interesting to know if it goes to windward and how well it might tack.
For me, the keel lacks the finesse you have achieved on the rest of the model.
I still can't work it out George.
Could you show a picture of it bolted in place. That looks like a lot of hardware to drag around.
I am intrigued about your keel. I couldn't work out how it is fixed to the hull?
A wonderfully successful project.
I think you are on the right tack installing separate Rx batteries. Winch servos can draw a lot of current.
It is not surprising that the set-up worked at home because when the winches are simply "on-line" they are hardly drawing any current. You were not necessarily replicating the conditions afloat.
I would be very wary of turning the Tx off and on. The convention is that you always turn the Tx on before the Rx. This means that the Rx can immediately receive normal instructions to send to the servos depending on the stick position. If you turn on the Rx first, the servos can overtravel and strong winch can do a lot of damage. As a further safeguard I always position the sheet stick to fully out (in may case away from me) before turning on so that if there is any twitching of the servos, nothing is going to get pulled tight. On the IOMs, the sheeted-in position is very close to the main sheet post and jib sheet guides and even a trim out of position could mean over sheeting.
|Thread: mystery boat - need to identify!|
I have my eye on the Ellipsis. Built down to weight it is a current and competitive design. I like his no-knuckle theory.
Helllo Rob and welcome
It has all the attributes of an International One Metre (IOM). Check the length including the soft bow bumper if it has one.
Your sails, masts, boom and fittings are identifiable as SailsEtc products and that company is owned by Graham and Lorna Bantock. It is a great company and very helpful. If you go to their website there are lots of downloadable instruction sheets and a comprehensive catalogue. I have often sent enquiries by email to Graham and he always responds quickly and clearly.
|Thread: Vitrex 1|
Have you been having a bit of a tidy up in your workshop Ray??
|Thread: What material is used to make yacht Sails.|
Google Nylet for a mine of information about model yacht rigs.
You will find loads of videos generally on the web if you hunt around.
Well here's mine:
Build two caissons.
Sink them behind and in front of the ship.
Seal around the edges (the hard part probably)
Pump water from the canal into the enclosed section containing the ship.
When water level high enough (probably doesn't need much) straighten out the ship)
Open the valves on the caissons to level the water.
Pump out caissons and move to one side.
Away goes the ship.
Hand the beer back to the captain and name your price
Apparently this is how it happened!!
First Officer: Do you think it is possible to turn around in the Suez?
Captain: Hold my beer!
From totally whacky to totally serious, and bearing in mind the billions of dollars that are being lost how would you unblock the canal?
|Thread: A couple of IOM yachts|
Well it passed the strength test Eddie!!
Ray and I are still intrigued about your method of producing the sunken aft deck.
|Thread: Inherited boat,big bugger,|
Not much information so I googled the model. If it's the kit I doubt it will be worth very much as it is unlikely to be a museum piece.
Old models can in my opinion be ruined by new painting so some photos would help. Static models don't have to have sails and often they look unrealistic unless done very cleverly. Furled sails are easier to do.
You will get more replies if you give more info.
|Thread: A couple of IOM yachts|
Even when you think they are dry, dry them out some more, and then some more. The slightest humidity in the mould will vaporise when you introduce the lead and not only will it spit at you like a very angry cat, you will have big lumps missing from the castings.
It is amazing how long it take the moisture to come out of the mould even when it appears dry.
Gentle clamping pressure is all that is needed to hold the two parts together and avoid point loads.
Pre-heat the mould as hot as you can in the oven before pouring. You will avoid short runs and get a better surface finish. The mould is less likely to crack from thermal shock.
Put the mould on a metal try on a suitable surface so that is the worse happens and the mould break you catch the lead before it does damage and you can use it again.
Edited By Tim Rowe on 12/03/2021 11:54:02
|Thread: Water is very dense|
Show us your bandsaw Ray!
|Thread: A couple of IOM yachts|
Very nice indeed Eddie.
The bar is rising.
How did you create the U section lowered aft deck. Nice touch.
|Thread: JIF 65|
I know the plan says 2mm aluminium but that is a bit like saying 2mm cheese. It could be parmesan or it could be a mature brie, Ordinary aluminium at 2mm is not going to be much use unless you can be certain of its grade. Ideally it should be in the 3 series or the 5 series.
For this reason and anyway, if I was building this boat for rough and tumble I would go to 3mm or 1/8" (3.12mm)
If you want, you have a bit more meat to file an aerofoil profile with a slightly rounded leading edge and a sharpish trailing edge. For good efficiency it is important that keel and rudder surfaces are very smooth. More important than the hull and lead bulb although it helps here too.
|Thread: Chez-When - 34" Sailing Cruiser|
That's one chunky boat. How much is it going to weigh all up when finished?
Will make a nice stable-mate for your other yachts.
Have you got the shadows yet for the Nimbus?
|Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build|
Lovely work Neil.
Just a quick question. Are the RNLI really that anal that they colour code the engine controls.
|Thread: Yachting Monthly Eventide|
Bags of character Ray. I like it a lot.
Are you the jigsaw fan or your dearly beloved.
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