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Member postings for Tim Rowe

Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Huntsman 31
23/05/2020 13:20:19

Hi Eddie

The best results for epoxy are obtained on what's called "wet on wet". As soon as the first coat has gelled and is robust enough not to wipe off, you can put another coat on. This creates a homogenous chemical bond as if it is one layer. Technically if the epoxy fully cures it should be cleaned and abraded before extra coats. A bit academic for our purposes maybe because epoxy is such a good adhesive. It is more important if you are using polyester resins.

I think your twin build is fantastic. More Faireys this year than perhaps ever before.

Great progress

Tim R

Thread: SIG Sealane
22/05/2020 21:16:14

Yes Ray, we still have a water bomber station at Pollensa and I have a short kit for the Bombardier CL 415 which will be fun to build some time. We also use helicopters for precision water bombing and if you have a swimming pool they are allowed by law to take a dunk.

Building as light as possible is one of my aims on this kit and there is always considerable scope. Often individual parts are made strong because they are too floppy on their own. When in combination with other structures they can often be slimmed down. It say on the box weight 6 - 7 ibs which is quite a tolerance. I am aiming for well under six even though I am adding some features. I am using a new Irvine 40 which is at the bottom end of the scale but I do have a 46 which has exactly the same external dimensions and would be a straight swap if I do find myself underpowered.

The kit describes the main construction as Lite ply. Well it is certainly not the stuff I normally use and light, well that stretching it a bit. The whole fuselage / hull frame is made with this stuff so a good place to start shedding the ounces.


Here is one side and because there are mainly two of everything it is good to do what is possible in pairs. The brown patches are thin double sided tape so the two side can be temporarily held together while doing any work. This guarantees symmetry.


I like to jig things as much as possible and the little balsa blocks are pined to the board in various so I can take the piece on and off at will and it always goes back to the same register. This block act as guides when pacing the second half on the tapes and this method is also useful if using contact adhesive. I want the things to come apart so just a few patches of tape are fine.


More jigging and here I have marked out the windows because the kit leaves them solid and has black stickers on the outside instead. I am cutting out the windows on the basis that the clear plastic windows will be lighter than the ply and have some other uses.


So here is the aft end and as I don't have a fret saw, chain drilling is almost as quick and the edges then get tidied up with a Dremel. Only ounces and fractions of ounces but it all adds up. It is also important to build the aft end light. The eventual position of the cg is critical and if the aft end is heavy a lot of weight has to be added to the bow to get the balance. That of course upsets the goal of building as light as possible.


Here the pieces are nipped out with a scalpel and you get an idea of how much wood has come out. And both sides done at one time.


Here in in another jig the smoothed cut-outs can be seen (all the original holes were enlarged to some degree) and at the right lower corner the back end of the new window.

Tim R

Thread: Todays Boating
22/05/2020 20:41:24

NIce photos Chris

Tim R

Thread: SIG Sealane
21/05/2020 22:27:03

Here ismy other project while waiting for paint to dry on others.


I suppose it is a boat until the moment it flies at which point it becomes a flying boat. My definition is that is has a hull rather than being an aeroplane with floats in which case it would be a sea plane. As it won't be flying until after the blog I hope it will be accepted in good faith on this forum as supposed to t'other one.

The kit is all laser cut including some 1/4 " ply and impressively accurate. The "boat" will be much as supplied in the kit but weight saving wherever \I can. The only major mod I have planned is to fit flaps as well as the ailerons. Above all I am looking forward to doing some fast taxying on the step but not quite airborne.

The kit is set up for a 40 sized glow motor (Irvine 40) so that is exactly what it is going to get.

Tim R

Thread: Comanche 32
21/05/2020 17:49:08

I am very glad you got your MoJo back on this one. The result has been thoroughly worthwhile.

Some questions:

What is the all up weight?
Can you show us how you are working the sails and the rudders?

Tim R

Thread: Huntsman 31
20/05/2020 23:12:37

Looks like very satisfying progress Eddie. Sometimes instructions are useful for finding out where you went wrong!

Personally I don't think there is anything wrong with going freelance as long as one accepts the responsibility of doing so. I always respect the designer though because it is much easier to make tweaks and modifications (so called improvements) but much harder to do the original design. Dave makes it look easy and so does Ray but there's a lot more to it.

I have to fess up to being a compulsive kit tweaker.

Tim R

Thread: Comanche 32
20/05/2020 23:03:03

We too are looking forward to seeing it rigged and sailing. Another nice job Ray

Tim R

Thread: Hunstman 31 by Tim Rowe
20/05/2020 22:59:51

While on the topic of Eddie's thread about READING THE INSTRUCTIONS I spotted in mine that I should make sure the cockpit assembly fitted between bulkheads 6 and 7 so I thought it would be sensible to build the basic cockpit first so I could make sure. Besides which I had already spent far too much time pondering and was dying to stick some wood together.


The cockpit is a mixture of lite ply and birch ply and all parts were quite twisted. Twisting is fine because it is only single plane curvature. It was easy therefore to jig the parts while the glue set using a home made lead weight to hold one piece flat on a building board and my long Permagrit to hold the other part straight and at right angles.

For anyone interested, the weight is lead and cast into an old aluminium sardine tin. After pouring (and cooling of course) I peeled off the aluminium, filled the odd few bumps with polyester filler, filed some grooves in the side to make it easy to pick up, painted white to stop me being in direct contact with the lead and finally stuck some 3mm MDF on the bottom to stop it marking anything it was used for weighting down. I have a few of these and they are really useful and more stable and dense than old 12v alarm batteries.


Here is the basic cockpit that I can now use to get the frame spacing spot on.

The cockpit is glued with West System epoxy and both surfaces of every join were coated so that even if the joints were not perfect (and they are not), there would be no exposed ply edges to soak up water. This theme will be carried right through the build so eventually all the structure will be fully encapsulated and waterproof. The advantage of epoxy is that you can pre-coat parts and then stick then together with more epoxy. If the parts were sealed or pre-coated with sanding sealer or other similar products there would be a weakness at all the joins. Epoxy doesn't grab like PVA or Aliphatic so it is more important to get the jigging correct, effective clamping essential and plenty of patience like minimum overnight setting. This is one of the reasons I am running the flying boat kit at the same time and both get worked on while Galileo's paint gets to dry.

Tim R

20/05/2020 16:31:18

The other thing to remember is that when you are going fast you are dragging a high energy wave behind you. If you come off the throttles too quickly that wave will catch up lifting the stern or in the case of outboards possibly swamping them. Worst case you sink. Next worst case you have some people in the cockpit or sunbathing on the aft deck who you have just got wet!

Also not good for big engines. Throttle back slowly and non of this happens.

Tim R

20/05/2020 11:51:50

Hi Chris

The previous owner of the kit did do some collecting of parts. There is a shaft and tube (now too long), a couple of plastic propellers and a rudder assembly. Of everything I suspect I will only be able to use the rudder and I will need some advice on that when I get a bit more advanced.

Like you, I think the rudder(s) in their proper places look much better on display. It would be interesting to know the reason for the forward rudders. I wonder if it is because it means the whole assembly can be under the hatch. That is not a big problem as it is easy to arrange sufficient access through the aft bulkhead supplied in the kit and if the boat is nicely open framed like yours then there is no problem at all.

Tim R

19/05/2020 21:47:23

Just to prove I do read instructions I noticed that it was advised that this model sits a bit bow down and needs trimming ballast at the stern. I have also wondered why, in model boats the engines always seem to be so far forward and likewise the propellers and the rudders. Most full sized powerboats have the rudders very close to the transom or hanging from it and the props are as far aft as possible close to the rudders and with minimal down-angle on the shafts.

My first significant mod to the kit is intended to fix all these points so I made a sketch of the keel outline on some paper and marked in the frames stations.


This showed that I ought to be able to move the motor about 60mm further aft and this would be a useful transfer of weight. Reducing the shaft angle was a little bit more difficult due to the clearance need for the flywheel (useless piece of junk on an electric motor) and of course remembering to leave enough space for the starting cord. (another nostalgic piece of equipment) When it comes to final fitting I will had to consider the cockpit and this might limit the available change.


Here is the front end of the keel. I am unable to break my aircraft habit of removing wood wherever I think I can and that accounts for the big lightening hole at the bow. Again if I can reduced the build weigh at the bow, less to ballast at the stern and if I end up have to add weight to get to the waterline that can be my choice to experiment with and I can add the weight over the centre of buoyancy or close to.

There is another reason for opening up holes and that is that I don't like closed off voids. I prefer all areas of a boat to be able to ventilate and to be able to drain. This subject came up in another recent post. Another benefit is that it reduces the amount of sealing materials I will use and as everything will eventually be encapsulated in epoxy I should have a bit more left over for another model. Weight is any enemy of performance so if my waterline is not too far out I will be giving my slightly marginal motor a better chance.

Tim R

19/05/2020 21:20:08

Hi all

You've got to admire Ray's inventiveness in avoidance tactics. Going for a lunatic swim just to avoid building a Fairey!

You can't get away without posting a picture of your trunks (wearing them of course).

Anyway, enough frivolity and back to the serious business of boatbuilding and thank you Dave for the drawings.

Tim R

Thread: Huntsman 31
19/05/2020 19:05:25

So far so good all is going well looks about right to me Eddie.

Tim R

Thread: Help please! Inherited some boats!
19/05/2020 19:03:15

They are petrol racing engines and nicely installed. I am interested too but in Mallorca so a bit impractical.

Local club Corby Ray so in Northants.

Thinking cap on.

Tim R

Thread: Hunstman 31 by Tim Rowe
19/05/2020 17:24:22

Hello Chris

The engine is a little bit weedy for the boat with a decent prop and some tweaks here and there it will be good enough. It is the 34" wooden hull kit. The parts are die-cut and actually the cutting is quite good but the accuracy and symmetry is not the same as laser and cnc cut of course. The difference is particularly noticeable at the moment because the flying boat kit is all laser.

Dave Milbourn has very kindly sent me the plans so thank you for your offer but I am fixed up now.

Ray is feeling it. At the rate he builds he could design a Faireyesque model and have it in paint by the weekend.

Tim R

Thread: Osprey - Trip Boat 28'
18/05/2020 22:37:56

Hi Ray

The essence of a trip boat captured perfectly. I can small the fish n chips and hear the seagulls.

Well done!

Tim R

Thread: Hunstman 31 by Tim Rowe
18/05/2020 22:31:22

Just noticed the miss-spelling on my title. I should be forgiven because the instructions in the kit refer to a FAIRY Huntsman - eeek!

Thanks Eddie for your comments. I have some catching up to do with a few phases on Galileo and will post soon. It had its first top-coat colour yesterday.


This is what is going in. Not a particularly powerful engine being and old cross-flow design but Enyas had a good reputation for reliability and this is not a racing boat. It is New in Box from Ebay but without silencer or instructions. I too would like a water cooled 4 stroke but it is missing from my collection. I have over 150 engines of various sizes and types ranging from a 70cc radial to a tiny CO2 motor. This is the only marine one. I have less than twenty electric motors but I am getting to appreciate them better.



Oops - This shadow upside down

First job was to make a couple of 3mm MDF shadows so I can play around with clearances, access and alignment on a self drawn plan. This kit just has instructions and schematics now as the dropped the plan some time ago when they made the parts "self-jigging". The absence of a plan makes it very hard to position the equipment and there is no reference to a waterline except on the box. Dropping the plan was a shame in my opinion and a design waterline is probably the most important datum for establishing displacement and weight distribution.

I will also apologise in advance to all those good people at Balsacraft as already I have made some fairly significant changes. I am having lots of fun with it though.

Tim R

Thread: Huntsman 31
18/05/2020 22:04:04

Hi Eddie

An alternative for big flat surfaces could be contact adhesive but you need to make a jig so that the parts align in one hit.

Is you kit with laser and CNC cut parts?

Following you build with much interest.

Tim R

Thread: Hunstman 31 by Tim Rowe
18/05/2020 19:27:45

Here I am joing the flotilla of Fairey Marine yachts. In real lfe, one of my favourite powerboats and being a Hamble lad, part of my heritage.

This looks like a good attempt at a mass build but for me progress will be slow as I have a flying boat on the go and in the finishing stages of Galileo.


This is the one I am building. An Ebay purchase before I managed to get control of my addiction to bidding. It has been in its box for at least four years but a few weeks ago I decided to take the plunge.

I am fairly sure the photo was taken in the Solent looking East towards Portsmouth. The shore would then be Hill Head joining to Lee on Solent in which case the boat could well be on its way to Cowes from Hamble. A route I must have done hundreds of times.

This one is IC powered which I hope will please Ray.

Here goes

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
01/05/2020 20:54:10

Hi Ray

Difficult to be certain from photos but I think it would be highly likely that the steel barges would have external chainplates bolted or riveted through the bulwarks and the topside. This would be before welding and the advantage of having them externally would be not having to penetrate the decks.

Just a thought.

Tim R

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