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Member postings for Tim Rowe

Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Dragonforce 65 Ordered
15/04/2021 16:08:58

That's good Chris

Will you do a little unpacking and setting up blog? I would find that very interesting as I am half toying with the idea for a chuck-in-the-back-of-the-car boat. The IOMs and Galileo need a bit of planning.

Tim R

Thread: IOM Boxkite
14/04/2021 13:13:56

Thanks Eddie. I should have said the actual tab was twice as long in the cut state. I was then folded back on itself so it wouldn't stick to the deck.

By moving the winch to the middle section I did create a a bit of extra work.


The winch line originally came out through this break in the deck but now with the winch relocated to the mid section as shown I had to make arrangements to get the winch line back on deck.


I has to have a lead-out fitting and as Ray has commented on the price of commercial fittings (in this case around £15 and a long lead time) I decided to make one. The basis is a small aluminium plate with a slot in the middle. The slot houses a short length of alloy tube formed into a shallow S bend. As I don't yet have the facilities for aluminium soldering, the fitting was bulked up with epoxy and micro-balloons and sanded into the shape in the photo. The fitting is bolted through the deck just forward of the turning block that the boat was already fitted with. The new lead-out fitting takes the line from under the deck straight into the turning block and the closeness with hopefully prevent any tangling. It does mean that I have one less line on deck which is a little bit neater.

Tim R

Thread: A couple of IOM yachts
14/04/2021 12:57:54

Thanks George

Very helpful.

Tim R

14/04/2021 12:03:01


I haven't got the drawing yet so I am not sure. It is possible that I might double plank it first with balsa and then an external veneer of mahogany. I have various stocks of well seasoned wood that I can machine to the sizes I need.

I am quite sure balsa will figure prominently and I will be generous with the original thickness to give me a good sanding allowance to fair things up.

I would like to get into soldering and home anodising aluminium then I could make many of the fittings. I already have pre-bent mast sections from SailsEtc and I shall use their booms and boom fittings. It's a pity the Graupner Regatta sail winch does not seem to be available any more. I had one on my Topiko and it failed. Shame because it was strong and quite fast and not so expensive as the RMG. It also had an additional lead to bypass the supply via the Rx.

Tim R

13/04/2021 18:46:24

Hello Eddie

It is interesting to note that the closer you get to the front of a fleet the differences in tuning become minute. Good starts, light touches on the helm excellent tactics then make all the difference if applied consistently. Plus of course the hunger to win.

I think it was Malcolm who may have said if you have two yachts on the water you have a race. That's true even if it stays in your head.

Looking forward to comparing notes on the Ellipsis.

What made you choose that design. I am curious.

Tim R

Thread: IOM Boxkite
12/04/2021 22:38:48

Getting there with the hull. Deck patches are the next job.


To make the paper templates I marked the edges of the apertures with the side of a pencil lead in the style of church Brass Rubbings. I then added 8mm all around for the patches to overlap. I read somewhere that 6mm was the minimum but that looked a bit skinny and I had 8mm space available to keep them all the same so that decided it. These were then stuck to some ply we use for templates (similar to Lite Ply but a lower quality and the offcuts are generally free) with my favourite method with Pritt Stick.


Here we have the complete set with the forward two doubling up as mirror images.


This is the midship patch template as an example. I told a slight fib as I had to make a small scallop to clear the radio pot.
I am a big fan of making templates and jigs and furthermore have learnt the hard way to label them. I still have a small collections of things I have no idea what I made them for.


It is then dead easy to cut the patch around the ply using a very sharp scalpel. The patch material is woven, self adhesive and a selection of colours is available from SailsEtc where I got mine.

This centre patch is the one that is more likely to need removing periodically as that is where all the gubbins are. For that reason I made a tab to make it easier to start the peel. If you have to scratch away at an edge, the patch pretty soon becomes useless and the deck gets scratched.

Before painting the final spray coat on the deck I lightly scribed the corners of each patch. This shows up in the top coat and means that the position and orientation of the patches can be found easily.


While the ply templates were out I made some paint screens from some cereal box card. These protected the inside while the deck was being painted.

I can now get on with the rig.

Tim R

Thread: A couple of IOM yachts
12/04/2021 19:48:08

That must have been very satisfying Eddie.

It was for me, just looking at the photos.

There are lots of good tuning tips for IOMs on the web. Two really important features are to have sufficient twist in the mainsail and associated twist in the jib due to the wind gradient. A lot of people sail with two much vang. The second is the relative sheeting angles between the main and the jib. A good starting point for going to windward is the end of the main boom being about 10mm off the centreline and the jib sheeted further out. On the jib for the Nimbus the end of the jib boom will probably be roughly half way between the mast and the shroud. You can control the twist of the jib to adjust the slot using the jib boom topping lift. You will know when you are hitting the sweet spot when it feels like the turbo has cut in!

I must get the Boxkite on the water soon.

Tim R

11/04/2021 20:57:55

Congratulations Eddie

Tim R

10/04/2021 18:56:03

Very nice Eddie

The information I have is that you need 270mm of winch travel. The Hitec I have in the Boxkite delivers 3 1/2 turns which is far to much so as I have a Spektrum Tx I had to use the Travel Adjust function, Other makes call it End Point.

Can't weight to see them on the water.

Tim R

Thread: IOM Boxkite
10/04/2021 15:20:32

Hello Eddie

As long as the hull length doesn't exceed 1000mm I suppose it is not too critical how long the bumper is. I would not want to make it longer than 20mm on an IOM and think between 10mm and 11mm is ideal.

Tim R

10/04/2021 12:54:58

Hello Eddie

I think the idea is that the bumper has to be a minimum 10mm. On many dimensions there are tolerances of +/- 1mm so I reckon 11mm is fine. There would be no advantage or incentive to make a bumper any larger so I reckon Frank is just playing safe for the home builder. He is an experienced designer.

Mine has come out at 10.5 mm again as a tolerance because if you are less than 10 you are out of class.

Have you made a start on the Ellipsis. It is next on my IOM list.

Tim R

Thread: 2021 Builds during lockdowns
09/04/2021 17:47:05

A really nice collection there NIgel.

You have inspired me to have a go at my un-started Billing Dragon and make that RC too.

I like the Dolphin artwork!

Tim R

Thread: IOM Boxkite
09/04/2021 17:04:03

There has been a bit of talk on Carl's threads about bow bumpers.


This is a reminder of what the original foam version looked like and it had been used in anger with a permanent dent half-way down. It definitely had to go and this is what I did:


I carved and profiled a piece of medium hard balsa that was stuck temporarily to the bow with double sided tape. After fairing and painting, the pattern was stuck to a piece of glass plate (again with double sided tape) and then given multiple coats of wax.
The blue tape creates a trim line for the completed mould and facilitates releasing from the glass.

A fairly stiff mix of epoxy and micro-ballons was pasted over the pattern and glass and allowed to gel. The rest of the mould was then made up with odd bits of glass cloth and rovings inside a balsa frame. When the mould was finished and thoroughly cured, out came the pattern. Not in one piece however which was a bit too much to hope for. The mould surface though was good.


The mould was then filled with liquid silicone catalysed at 5%. Although I mixed carefully and gently I did manage to introduce some air and you can see some bubbles rising in the liquid mix. The lesson for next time is that there is no rush as the silicone is very slow curing. There were a few bubbles in the final moulding and I should have let the mix stand for probably 1/2 hour before pouring.


This time though, using a very light smear of Vaseline in the mould, the bumper release very easily. Before doing that however, the top (mating) surface was carefully trimmed with a brand new traditional razor blade.
Here you have a better view of the mould construction.
For the technically minded the Shore hardness for this silicone was stated at 25. On the IOM the hardness is not stated but usually is limited at 70 otherwise it starts to take on battering ram characteristics and you quickly lose popularity with your racing mates. 25 is quite nicely squidgy.


The bow area was then masked off to keep the bonding silicone off the paint.


And the bumper taped in places while the moisture curing bathroom type white silicone did its stuff. The bow bumper now matches the hull profile accurately and it now looks the part.

Just to note that the hull has now had its primary polish and the deep gloss is starting to develop.

Tim R

08/04/2021 18:48:19

Thanks Chris and Eddie

My friend has more or less decanted back to the UK. He never intended to become a Spanish resident and just enjoyed the freedom of movement. He tried to give the boat back to me but I just can't bring myself to take possession. I am now therefore the custodian and really I am the lucky chap.

It has been a bit of a change from building and in a way, a bit more of a challenge because it didn't start from where I would have done and tricky sometimes to know when to stop.

I am enjoying every bit.

Tim R

08/04/2021 12:09:26

Hello Eddie

We have a hardware shop right opposite and I try to find what I need there as it will be a lot cheaper than the model shop 35 kilometers away in Palma. Especially for standard stuff like paint. They can mix to a colour chart but this blue was of the shelf and very close to the original colour.

Right from the outset, the plan was to get all the weights concentrated as close as possible to the middle. In a racing yacht it is very important to keep weight out of the ends. It helps on all sailing boats, models and full size. A new tray was needed.


A top view of the tray made from 1.5mm ply.


A bottom view of the tray with some Liteply stiffeners.


Now painted and with the steering servo and sail winch fitted. The unit can be taken in and out of the hull by releasing four bolts and the servos are bolted through the tray. On final fitting I needed a fraction more clearance for the steering link rod under a deck beam so I underslung the servos.


Finally installed in the hull. The tray bolts to a cross piece glued to the remnants of the old mount for the steering servo and to a notched piece of ply glued around the aft end of the keel casing.

Everything important is now under one deck patch in the middle of the boat and the battery now goes in the base of the pot with the Rx sitting on top.

Tim R

07/04/2021 22:41:47

I have made some progress with the Boxkite so time to report in.


A suitable piece of ply was found for the hole and glued in place using epoxy. The same epoxy was used to seal the underside as it would be tricky to completely seal with paint or varnish afterwards. The brace across the top was a piece of soft balsa held with a couple of tiny spots of glue so it it be broken off easily when the patch had cured. The balsa keeps the patch in perfect alignment with the top of the deck.


When coated with the high build primer the patch disappeared. The paper scrunched up inside was to stop primer getting onto the keel box because I need to stick things on that later.


The paint stages are too boring for the interim stages but two coats of spray primer gave me a uniform base surface. Eight coats of enamel were then hand painted just sanding enough in between coats to remove dust and to get a good key. The penultimate coat was flatted right back so that the final coat would be as smooth as possible. This cuts down the work at polishing stage and creates a very fair surface.

In this photo you can see the final coat which has a good gloss but has the brush marks and the odd speckle here and there. The bottom has been prepared for final polishing using wet / dry paper used wet going from 400 to 800 to 1200 and finally 1500 grit. This leaves a perfectly matt surface and if you are lucky this can be done within the thickness of the last coat so you don't get any beach marks. It doesn't matter too much because on final polishing these tend to disappear.

The hull was left in this un-polished state while the rest of the work was completed. Two reason for this:
If the coatings got scratched I could repair before polishing . The other is that the paint will continue to harden over the 4 further weeks or so needed to complete. Fully hardened paint takes a much better polish.


The decks were self finished with a rattle can as they would be a nightmare to polish without breaking through and anyway, not really necessary as by the time the deck patches are fitted along with the hardware, not much of the deck is on show. There was one problem caused by a previous owner using a silicone based lubricant around the mainsheet turning block. The minutest trace of silicone contamination causes the paint to kick and produce fish eyes. I was able to improve it a bit but it still remains as a feature!

Tim R

Thread: Rigging
07/04/2021 21:59:07


Not just a deck mounted mast either. The mast is held forward by a stay that runs in the luff of the jib and connects down to the deck with a swivel.

The forestay and backstay don't just hold the mast up. Tension on the backstay keeps the luff of the jib nice and straight. That is a lot more efficient than a saggy luff.

I do use a temporary forestay (just a mirror image of the backstay) when setting up. This keeps the mast in the desired position while I fiddle about with the jib arrangements.

Tim R

Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
06/04/2021 17:06:56

Back again Neil

The SOLAS Convention rules for Lifesaving Appliances (LSA) are specific about the specification and equipment that goes with a lifebelt.

They are:

Self-igniting floating light.
Floating line.
In some cases a Self Activating Smoke Signal and a drogue (if the lifebelt is a lightweight type commonly used on yachts)

They are not fitted with EPIRBs. When an EPIRB is activated it sets off a chain reaction of coordinated search and rescue operations via Satellite bouncing to shore stations using a specific code that identifies the vessel. The lifeboat operator would not want to trigger all that every time the lifebelt is deployed. After all, the lifeboat already knows where is it and will be in radio contact with a number of agencies foremost the Coastguard. If the lifeboat itself was in danger of sinking then its own EPIRB would be deployed. Often fitted with hydrostatic releases that allow automatic deployment the are generally mounted fairly high up (RNLI's own words) to reduce the risk of snagging. It would be sensible to take the EPIRB with you if you were transferring to a life raft.

The other piece of tracking equipment that would often be used in abandonment is a SART (Search And Rescue Transponder). The basic principle of a SART is that it reacts to interrogation by a radar signal and re-transmits pulses on the same frequency thereby providing a bearing and range on that radar.

My day job is assessing vessels for SOLAS and MCGA compliance and I have never seen and EPIRB or SART on a lifebelt. I do accept that the RNLI go their own way on many items but for the reasons I have explained above, I don't think so on these items. I am always willing to stand corrected and hand the discussion back to you.

I repeat the admiration for the detailed postings and the excellent results.

Tim R

Thread: JIF 65
06/04/2021 16:36:42

As Malcolm says above. Another option, cheap and cheerful would be to carve some cork.

With your stated level of experience I am concerned you could have a nasty accident trying to cast that lead.

Lead fumes are poisonous

Molten lead is hot. Could cause nasty burns and can set fire to things very easily.

Unless that wood mould is completely dry. IE no moisture at all or the molten lead will flash it into steam and be propelled everywhere. Usually face, eyes, hands, arms and inside shoes.

It looks like you are using pine which is full of resin which will gas and at the very least blow holes in your casting. At worst it can have a similar effect to moisture.

If you are planning to cast two halves to bolt together, the mould might burn up and not last long enough for for the second pour.

Please be warned.

Tim R

Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
06/04/2021 09:12:14

Hello Neil

Fascinating stuff that merges the models with reality.

Just one point of detail. Those items hanging in the lifebelts are automatic lights not EPIRBs (Electronic Position Indicating Radio Beacons). EPIRBs are always connected with the vessel and get deployed if the vessel sinks or is abandoned at sea. They are not for use in a Man Overboard situation although pocket sized personal locating beacons are available and have been used with success.

The two main types of light. The one you have is stowed upside down (like you have done correctly) and when they go in the water they up-end tripping a switch turning the light on. The little button near the main body would be a clear lens which of course would be on top in the water.
The other type gets activated by immersion and it doesn't matter which way they are stowed although conventionally, this type is stowed the right way up.

Tim R

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