Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ouch - Biff on the nose|
My NitroHammer has been a shelf queen since a bath test run maybe 5 years ago. It has a 12 size glow engine with a neat little pull start. The test was successful in that the motor started easily. It was unsuccessful in terms of the amount of bath water emptied onto the floor. Fortunately for the sake of my continued existence my better half found it very funny.
Wind forward to a couple of weeks ago and I had the opportunity to run the boat in a large open water cistern. Large in terms of about 50m long and 35m wide. You might say predictably the nose of the boat ended up like this:
The result of a head-on collision with the stone walls of the cistern. My pals, once they had picked themselves off the floor suggested a bit of tape would be fine and we should keep going to run in the engine. Fortunately my better instinct told me it would be better to pack up for the day.
Drastic cut required to get back to sound material.
As I am using epoxy the bow was masked up. Taping also helps to stop the gelcoat breaking away while sanding the edges true.
Here the top piece is being fitted. You can't do it with one piece because of the taper at the bow.
I don't mind sanding polyester filler whereas I don't much like sanding epoxy unless it has a very high ratio of micro-balloons.
Nest stage to make the pattern.
|Thread: HMS Belfast plans|
I know you from the model flying forum and welcome here. My avatar over there is Levanter.
For everyone else who follows here, Roo makes the most superb composite gliders. I am certain anything Roo builds here will be fascinating and I will be following closely.
As gliding has so many similarities with sailing maybe we can tempt you with a performance model yacht.
|Thread: Todays Boating|
If they are small cracks and you say you can't see them them I would recommend Captain Tolley Creeping Crack Cure.
There is a thread on the model engineering forum at the moment where there were all sorts of bizarre suggestions. It was a model submarine with leak problems. Click here to see the thread.
I described the properties of Captain Tolley. The advantage to you is that it stays slightly flexible and therefore will accommodate movement. You boat will have localised heat, maybe some steam and clinker hulls are usually built with quite light scantlings. Some movement is quite likely and not in itself a bad thing. Epoxy is great if you can encapsulate everything but retrospectively that is nigh on impossible. If (when) some moisture gets into the planks and they will swell. If parts are tied together randomly with epoxy the movement will translate elsewhere in new cracks.
If small weeps appear later, just a touch more Tolley's.
|Thread: Futaba RX power & battery type|
It could simply mean don't use the old style "dry cell". Often it is stated to use alkaline batteries (which seem to be more or less standard) if you are not using rechargeables.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Thank you Chris and Eddie
My Proxxon mini drill was my first significant purchase when I got back into modelling. It will take a 1/4" which is fine in wood but even at the slowest speed it is far to fast for drilling metal. I can just about manage 4mm. Now I am building more boats than aircraft I should probably look out for a less dainty device. I wouldn't be without it though.
Here is my Proxxon cross slide mounted on the drill doing exactly what Eddie describes. These are at 5mm intervals dialled in on the handwheel.
To make this lines of holes in an IOM jib boom
|Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33|
You nailed it Chris!!
Looks mighty fine
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
I don't keep 1/4" or 6mm ply other than just a few offcuts so Kimberley's frames are cut from 3mm Liteply. Litelply as we all know is rarely very flat but that is quite easy to solve by jigging during assembly. 3mm doesn't give a huge amount of material for the planks to stick to but most of the tension will be at the plank ends at the bow and stern. The ply will take pins which is an advantage and putting the bevels on is a doddle compared with doing the same at 1/4" . It is also much easier to cut and above all I have plenty!
My usual method is to cut out the paper sections direct from the plan and then photo copy them. I then have the originals just in case and if everything is copied then any slight reduction or enlargement will be consistent and will not matter.
The section templates are stuck to the ply using Pritt Stick. I tried branded copies but they never worked quite so well and would leave residues whatever I tried.
Using Ray's method of building upside down on sacrificial "legs" the frame were cut out and the edges sanded back to the line. The centre-pop marks were an idea to give me a reference when the paper is removed but as you can see they slipped a bit and it was easier and more accurate to put a small starter cut either side to pick up on later. I shall follow those cuts when the hull is removed from the biding board.
With the genuine Pritt Stick I find that is the paper is moistened with clean water and a brush it will release from the wood with the glue coming away on the paper. Not enough water or time to soak into the ply and distort it. Sometimes there are a few remnants like in the photo and these sand off easily.
Frames more or less ready and put to one side for the "kit"
Thoughts on the centreline keel now.
This is the Veronica version that has two balsa strips either side to land the planks on. I suppose it is balsa to take pins. This would have a single 6mm hole going through to take the keel but mine is having a 6mm slot so losing a considerable amount of material.
The solution for me is to make the keelson the same width as the original including the balsa and to fill in the corners. This is closer to the arrangement of the keelson on the real thing. The lower section (false keel) is a separate piece of wood and makes up the thickness of planking which will be balsa first and then a second layer of mahogany planking following as much as possible the planking regime of the real thing. The keelson and false keel are mahogany which having all its grain going longitudinally, is stronger than a plywood alternative. You can now see that the fin keel will be well supported where it exits the hull because there is much more material and also sufficient width when later I have to fix the sides of the keel box.
I know I won't be able to stick pins into the mahogany but I will cross that bridge when I come to it.
Here are the two parts of the keel. I don't want to stick them together yet and I will explain later. I do want then to stay in exactly the right place when I cut the slot so the two are dowelled so I can split them at will.
I do have a mill attachment on my lathe but it is a pain to set up for small jobs. The easiest way was to set the keels on a set of cross slides and then chain drill the slots. I would be very unfair on the little bench drill's spindle to mill the slot in mahogany.
Lots of holes later and as many intermediate passes and I have a slot that is truly vertical and also parallel to the keel. The slot is much longer than the chord of the fin but that allows me to adjust the position as Ray warned me balance was a problem with the Big Rig (it is big).
These are the first bits of the kit of parts I am making. Nothing glued just yet,
Thanks Ray and Chris.
I know barges have a reputation for sliding around on flat mud so you have to take care mooring alongside them unless of course you are in another barge.
I have a theory (totally un-proven) that the leeboards provide some resistance to leeway (lift) but the bulk of the resistance comes from the chines. You only have to heel slightly and all of a sudden you have a huge long keel as the chine digs in. My much slimmed down keel is still hugely bigger than the amount of leeboard that sticks out below the chine and that is the only bit that is doing any extra work other than the hull?????
|Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33|
I have spray rails to look forward to on the Cigarettes.
I find following your builds quite Zen Chris. I can't say the same for Ray's stuff because blink and he is onto the next thing!
By the way Chris, where do you get your shiny wood from ?
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Been doing a bit of barge building but first of all a good look at the drawings and there are lots of them with some great detail. There has been lots of barge stuff here so this is not a complete blog but just highlights some of the changes I made and some of the tricky bits.
First up I wanted to replicate the keel system that I used for Galileo including the lead bulb because I already have the mould. The lead however is at the light end of the range compared with the notes on the drawing which is OK as long as the draft is a bit deeper. I sail in the harbour so a bit of extra draft is not a problem. The keel options on the drawing are a bit of a fat section for my liking but with the single bolt system for fixing I can see why.
The first job was to draw the existing fin and bulb on the profile, the red lines and calculate the Centre of Lateral Resistance (CLR). This is quite easy with simple geometry and is a line passing through the centroid. I have marked this line in blue. Obviously my new keel profile should have the same CLR or I will be changing the characteristics of the designed balance. For the purpose of this exercise I have ignored the CLR of the bulb on the basis that the difference should be marginal.
The new fin is drawn in green and is much higher aspect ratio and will bring the draft to approximately 300mm.
The high aspect ratio will be more susceptible to stalling if I get stuck in irons but overall it will be significantly more efficient and has about 70% less wetted surface area than the original which may be cutting the side area a bit fine but we will see.
This is the fin blank made from high tensile aluminium at 6mm thick. When faired it will be about 8mm and the tapered section fits into a slot in the hull. The taper is a non-locking angle but when the retaining bolt is tight, the keel will be well supported and very secure.
I have now superimposed a template of Galileo's bulb. With the front of the bulb lined up with the leading edge of the new fin there is only a 5mm shift of centre of gravity of the ballast which given the length of the hull and the displacement is insignificant. I was expecting this to be close but 5mm was a very happy accident.
|Thread: The Cigarette|
Clearly is was very important to have had a miss-spent yoof!
I think I will ask my doctor to put the magazine on prescription! Reckon it should relieve all my aches and pains very nicely!
It's a free plan Cary 32 sports boat famously called The Cigarette by Ray Wood. I don't have the magazine but I think it is the current issue. If Ray sees this he might post a picture because I haven't got that far yet.
Ashley has already suggested that one of mine should be called Vape but I haven't made up my mind yet.
By the way, I am building 2 so there are 3 for sure.
Aaah! The days of standing on tip-toe and asking for 10 No6
Something the millenials won't have appreciated.
Is anyone building Ray's The Cigarette? Enough to make a pack would be great!
|Thread: Chez-When - 34" Sailing Cruiser|
Just a quick nudge. The DH60 is a biplane but a lovely subject anyway and should be a treat to fly. I know Ray will keep the weight down and we were have a discussion about whether his ASP 90 four stroke would do the job. We reckoned it would if flown like the real thing on the wing and conserving energy with smooth manoeuvres. I like to watch the big models like your Piper but I don't have the room to own one.
Watching the slipper by the way.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
Is the paint raised in the "cracks" or are they definitely cracks. If you can tell me I may have some ideas.
I like Ray's Cigarette so much I am building two. Boys games for my grown up son and me.
Frames and keel cut out, brushless, esc and servos sorted out and waiting no to go to the model shop to buy shaft, prop and coupling.
|Thread: IOM Boxkite|
Nearly there. The radio and battery pot to glue in.
The glue of choice for this is clear silicone but I don't need much and I don't want it everywhere. The pot was masked up just leaving a narrow band for the silicone. This was wiped into the band and the tape removed taking with it all the excess.
Sliding into place with a good seal and no mess.
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