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Member postings for Tim Rowe

Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: applying epoxy to hull
17/06/2020 11:17:09

Hi George

If you leave coating too long the epoxy will have cured and it is better to rub down to provide a key. This only needs to roughen the surface and not change the profile.

The other thing to watch out for is "amine bloom". You will know if you have got it as the surface will feel slightly greasy and this will come off on your finger. This does not mean the epoxy hasn't cured but any bloom must be removed before re-coating. The bloom is water soluble so the prescribed way of removing it is with water with a little detergent. Some people use solvents but be careful.

If in doubt - sand lightly I would say because the best way to obtain thickness with epoxy (solventless varieties) is to apply wet on wet.

Tim R

Thread: Mintanic
17/06/2020 07:56:42

The story on the Union Flag goes something like this:

Private - Which way up does it go Sarge?

Sarge - Idiot, it is symmetrical so doesn't matter.

Major - We can't have some idiot put the flag upside down

King - Make a broader white stripe at the top near the pole so we know which way is up.

Extraordinarily British!

Tim R

16/06/2020 16:15:31

Ashley

You have the Union Flag upside down. Most flags when flown upside down are a recognised distress signal ( which I suppose on this subject could be quite apt) Others could view it as treasonable in which case I hope the moat is flooded around the Tower of London so you won't get too bored! wink

Or maybe you are testing us?smiley

Tim R

Thread: Comanche 32
14/06/2020 12:46:49

Hi Ray

Every time I see your post come up I think whoopee! It must be in the water by now.

Can't wait to see how it goes.

I've said it before but I'll say it again, very interesting project and very nicely carried out.

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
11/06/2020 17:02:13

I Like what we call Cartoon Scale in model aircraft. The occasional rivet is great and it looks the part from social distancing!

Mind you Ray does seem to have time on his hands.

Tim R

Thread: Huntsman 31
09/06/2020 12:45:50

And he uses super quick-drying paint. Amazed at the velocity!!

Brilliant

Tim R

Thread: Developing frame profiles from plans
09/06/2020 12:44:05

Hi Bill

Welcome. To develop the frames you will need what's called a Body Plan. This is normally incorporated into a Lines Plan that has three views:

Profile - Which is the view looking from the side. This shows the waterlines and stations (frames) as straight lines.

Plan - Which shows the stations as straight lines and the waterlines as curves.

Body Plan - Which show the waterlines as straight lines and the stations as curves (your frames)

The three views interpolate and effectively determine points on the hull in 3D. If you change any one view it will affect the other. There is not enough information to build a boat just using outline and you would have to "design" the intermediate shapes.

Your best bet is to buy a plan that has ll that hard work done for you and has all the frame shapes drawn out in full (or at least half a frame on the centreline so you can mirror image the other half)

Building from plans would still be a scratch build. But maybe you are suggesting a scratch design. That is a whole lot harder although considerably simplified if you opt for a hard chine boat.

Great to have another build brewing up.

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
06/06/2020 09:55:05

Hi Ray

You'll be glad when you have done it - And glad that you have done it.

I can't see that a multi-modeller like you is going to have any real trouble.

Looking very good and that bluff bow that you were concerned about is now lending character.

Itching to get started on a TB.

Tim R

Thread: Rhythm by Graham Bantock
05/06/2020 16:55:27

Hi Steve and welcome

I am a big IOM fan and I have a Topiko. I have great yearning s to build a wooden one so hopefully you will post here with your build progress. I will be watching with interest.

Tim R

Thread: Galileo - A resurrection
04/06/2020 06:46:05

I was in the boatyard for big boats yesterday and saw something that made me a bit more relaxed about the keel tang on Galileo.

p1160895.jpg

This keel is about 4 metres deep and look at the tiny amount that gets plugged into the hull! Amazing!

The fin is high tensile steel CNC milled from a billet and the bulb is of course lead although there are a few yachts around using depleted uranium. I don't know where the boat is that it belongs to.

Tim R

 

Edited By Tim Rowe on 04/06/2020 06:47:03

Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
04/06/2020 06:39:54

That makes a lot more sense Neil

Tim R

Thread: Aerial positioning
02/06/2020 22:27:55

HI George

The aerial can stay inside the boat unless it is metal hulled or carbon. It is only the last bit that is "active" as supped to the "old" aerials where the whole length was part of the tuning.

I think getting the aerial as high as possible in the hull is good and as far away as possible from motors, ESCs batteries as possible given the limitations and again above them if possible. 1.4gig does not have the penetrating power as the 40meg sets so driving a model behind a large boat runs the risk of losing contact so I avoid ding that.

Much simpler really.

Tim R

PS Colin types faster.  Some receivers have a short aerial and a longer one like you have.  These should be orientated at 90 degrees to each other but it doesn't matter in which plane.  In these cases I use the plastic tube method to keep them correctly orientated.

Edited By Tim Rowe on 02/06/2020 22:31:06

Edited By Tim Rowe on 02/06/2020 22:31:55

Thread: model boats issue august2016 required
02/06/2020 19:38:02

Another very tempting one Ray.

Tim R

Thread: Galileo - A resurrection
02/06/2020 18:51:26

Chris - You are going to continue to be an inspiration to a lot of builders, old and new.

The question arose early on whether I was going to be happy with a plastic screw top on the deck.

p1130834.jpg

Quite ugly I think you'll agree so it got some treatment.

Going back a bit I had my disaster moment when I put the contact adhesive on the wrong side of the veneer. Pretty stupid thing to do but after sulking for a suitable period I got back on my horse and bought a new sheet.

I have to cut a hole in the veneer so why not use the scrap piece on the top and give it a go.

p1130830.jpg

Here is the piece of veneer but it is very, very thin and the grain (which is the special feature) is all over the place. It would never be possible to sand it perfectly round so it had to be stuck to a temporary backing pad to give it some beef. Here I am marking out a piece of balsa which is stuck to the veneer with Pritt Stick. This is quite strong but releases easily when dampened.

p1130833.jpg

This is the disk (upside down) that I can handle easily and will stop the edge from breaking away while I sand it perfectly round on the Proxxon Dustmaker.

p1130835.jpg

The temporary backing was taken off and the veneer stuck permanently to a piece of 1/64 birch ply which is the permanent backing. The veneer now gets a border that has to be fitted in segments. That's why the backing is marked and number so that when I make the "petals" I can make sure they go in their correct places.

p1130836.jpg

Here are the petals and you can see that numbers 1 and 2 have been sanded at a radius to match the round veneer. Each petal is numbered for it's corresponding place.

p1130837.jpg

Petal number 1 is hiding under the red plastic strip which spreads the force, protects the petals and doesn't stick to anything. I am using Aliphatic.

p1130838.jpg

The petals are now all on and the joints line up with the sectors marked on the backing. The orientation of the joints and the veneer is important because when fitted, the veneer pattern will match the main piece it was taken from with the grain lining up.

p1130839.jpg

The whole disc it then cut to size using a compass cutter so that it fits in the shallow recess of the screw top.

p1130842.jpg

Like this.

The lid still sticks up like before but it has lost some of its ugliness.

Tim R

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Tim Rowe on 02/06/2020 18:51:53

Thread: Fairey Huntsman 28
02/06/2020 13:32:43

Even worse is that 1/2 ton of water has to be lifted from the inlets on the hull bottom to where the jets exit on the transom. That is another effective increase in displacement and what's worse, the displacement increases as the boat goes faster.

Great system for jetskis and boats that can't have anything sticking out the bottom but very hard on impellers, expensive to maintain. A lot of super-fast ferries use jets.

Tim R

Thread: Huntsman 31
01/06/2020 20:15:28

You running a night shift as well Eddie?

Tim R

Thread: Comanche 32
01/06/2020 19:52:38

Some interesting theory here Ray. On a monohull the boat has to heel in order the increase the righting moment and the more the boat heels, the greater the righting moment and at the same time the projected area of the sails and their efficiency reduces and so equilibrium is reached.

A catamaran sails at very small angles of heel (if all is going well) so the leeward keel will not be producing any heel correction and the windward keel has its righting moment mainly influenced by the distance of its centre of gravity from the leeward hull. So for half the time, one of your keels is doing nothing except providing its share of lateral resistance. I wonder therefore if a central keel would be more efficient but of course a lot harder to construct.

Most full size catamarans are unballasted and the stability governed by their relatively enormous beam.

I will be fascinated to see the boat sailing and wonder if it could take a substantially larger rig for lighter conditions and I have been wracking my brains to think of an unloading mechanism to take care of gusts. Fast cats transfer gusts into acceleration to absorb the energy but cruising cats don't have that luxury. Interested on your thoughts.

Tim R

Thread: Galileo - A resurrection
01/06/2020 19:04:49

Ray asked me some while ago if I was going to fit a cabin and cockpit. The answer was no then, and it's still going to be ostensibly a flush deck. Although the hull is scale, it is a fully functioning RC yacht so I like the simplicity besides which the original model was flush deck.

I will describe the hatches later but they are flush too and when sailing will be sealed with tape or ring patches. A better solution for keeping the water out. This leaves the problem of changing the battery and accessing the switch. Before the advent of 2.4 ghz radios there was also the need to change crystals as well. The solution is a screw top plastic container again available from SailsEtc and other sources. Inevitably this breaks up the line a bit but this is a practical model and so I have to make provision for the pot. I kept it as far inboard as possible but this was limited by the swing of the lever arm winch. It is close to the main hatch for easy of making the electrical connections.

p1020788.jpg

Here is a reminder of the deck layout with the main hatch, hole for the pot off to starboard, the hatch over the rudder stock and on the starboard quarter, the hard point for the mounting pole for the GoPro camera.

p1110396.jpg

Here is the pot with three layers of balsa wrapped around it. The elastic is the clamp.

The pot is slightly tapered so I made the balsa ring slightly low on the taper to give me some sanding allowance on the inside. The ides being that the pot will ultimately seal on the taper when the flange is at deck level.

p1110398.jpg

The ring is now on the deck for marking out.

p1110407.jpg

The finished ring sealed with tissue and paper like the deck itself and the pot.

p1110408.jpg

The ring was made oversize for ease of construction but I don't need all that width. Just enough to stabilise the cut edge of the deck and to provide a reasonable sealing area.

p1110409.jpg

A couple of minutes with the razor saw and job done. O how I like reinforced balsa!

p1110659.jpg

Easing out the hole with the curved Permagrit which by complete coincidence was just the right size.

p1110660.jpg

Trial fit before gluing with epoxy.

p1110667.jpg

Just a little bit more sanding to do to bring it flush with the deck and something else to tick off the list.

Tim R


Thread: Comanche 32
01/06/2020 18:36:01

Some disgustingly clean baths being shown.

Another great moment Ray and for sure that boat will have some stability - BOTH WAYS UPlaugh

Tim R

Thread: TYNE Class Lifeboat build
01/06/2020 10:36:45

Hi Bob

The Tyne Class lifeboats have all been withdrawn. Some were then sold to China. Your picture is a later version, faster and with better self-righting properties.

Tim R

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