|Thread: Todays Boating|
It didn't register at first but your foils have got anhedral similar to the wings of a Harrier jump jet. This will make the boat unstable when foil-borne. The more it heels, the more it will want to heel. They are also fully immersed which would normally mean they would have to be dynamic rather than fixed.
Interesting experiment nonetheless.
You will have to set the foils at a positive angle of incidence (ie the water flow needs to meet the foils from the underside). How much incidence depends on the weight of the boat and the design speed. Too much and there will be a lot of drag that might even prevent the boat getting foil-borne and it would be skittish at high speed. Too little and there won't be enough lift resulting in the same thing. The angle is fairly critical.
Once the boat gets going you have to have some means of keeping the incidence positive because if it goes negative you will have a very spectacular nose dive. Remember also that your thrust line is high compared with a conventional prop. The foil on the rudder will have to control the incidence, support a good proportion of the weight and do the steering so it will be quite busy.
The best of luck and don't forget to take a video. It will be useful anyway for some fine tuning!
|Thread: Bilge keel on Titanic|
I think at that scale you are right they would be far too small to have any effect. Any larger and they would spoil that lovely look you have achieved.
Bilge keels of the type fitted to ships do not have any effect on stability but are primarily there for roll damping. Sometimes also used for keeping ships upright if they are intentional grounded or dried out.
|Thread: Elliott Bay Steamer|
I also have a little Midwest (Apprentice) dinghy kit and I would agree with you. The cutting and the wood selection was perfect. I think it only has a brass spit pin for the painter so I would agree with you completely.
A lucky moment on Ebay secured a Midwest kit of the Elliott Bay Steamer including the engine and boiler package.
Something fairly quick and easy or so I imagined but I did get a bit carried away. It comes in quite a large box to house the vacuum moulded hull and deck plus all the bits and pieces except glue and paint.
The moulded hull was reasonably fair but the deep narrow draw at the bow had left the material a bit thin and flexible. Elsewhere it was reasonably strong helped by the curvy sections. The quality of the wood was good and there was plenty of it. The same could not be said for the fittings but more of that later. The instructions were OK up to a point but followed to the letter would leave a weak hull to deck join and the placing of the battery switch on the foredeck is frankly daft.
This is not a build blog but a snapshot version concentrating on the variations I decided to do and the reasons why.
|Thread: Cascamite glue|
That's a kind offer Trevor.
I am not sure I can PM you if you don't have a public profile which reminds me I must do mine!
Ahhhh! I would love to get hold of some only for the wonderful smell!!
We used it a lot for making full sized spars in spruce where the red / brown glue line of Aerolite would be unacceptable.
Also used for dinghies and light boats or canoes not normally kept in the water as it was not rated as fully waterproof.
It may have filled gaps but the best joints were really close fitting and securely clamped while drying. With a properly thin glue line it is very reliable if kept properly protected as demonstrated by a 50ft mast built in 1973 and still doing fine.
|Thread: How to sell?|
Hang on a minute Christopher. Those look like very nicely made models with various clues like the closeness of the frame spacing, two fastenings on each plank, the detailing and the general form. For modelling purposes there are generally much easier woods to use than teak so your grandad was certainly a craftsman of some ability.
I would say they are not run of the mill and may well attract some attention on the auction site especially with a good selection of photos. Buyer collect is perfectly normal although will put off some buyers so they could be sent by courier and the buyer pays for that too. Occasionally one sees this sort of thing in antique shops.
Living in Mallorca creates a bit more of a problem for me but if I was in the UK I would be interested.
Don't give up on then too easily.
|Thread: How do I calculate the keel weight for the model Star 45 I'm building?|
Lots of good information coming your way particularly around the scaling effect that does not work in your favour. Malcolm was certainly pointing you in the right direction and I am sure he won't mind me pointing out that when he described making the keel longer he really meant deeper. On a yacht, long keel has a meaning of its own and the important thing is to get the keel weight (and therefore the centre of gravity) as deep as possible.
As to the weight required on your model it is very easy to find out by practical testing in a bath. On the plan it will show the designed waterline and you can mark this on the hull. You now add weight making an allowance for mast, sails, fittings, radio, batteries etc and when the model is floating on that waterline you can measure the added weight and that is the amount of lead you have to add to the keel. The link from Telstar is a very useful way of getting the dimensions of a bulb shape that is the weight you want. Lead is not very strong so although a narrow shape creates less drag it will get bent easily if it overhangs the keel. A model yacht for just pottering about will be fine with something a bit stubbier.
Finally and due to the scale effect and not having to comply with any rule I would keep the depth of the keel only a bit less than the original and not in proportion. Remember, the wind doesn't know what size the boat is.
As to ways of casting the lead you will find lots of ideas (and precautions) on U Tube.