|Thread: Spider J|
Really nice work on that tiller (and the rest of course!!)
You could always attach the crewman to the tiller then he will always be in the right place.
|Thread: An old pond yacht|
I think Ray is correct that the boat is overpowered and when the wind gets up you might need to fit a smaller rig. I imagine that the heel could have been quite large particularly as not all your ballast is at the lowest part of the keel. When a yacht heels excessively this also tends to make the boat screw up into the wind. Almost certainly your mast step is too far aft and you found an improvement when you moved the mast further forward. I would suggest that the mast step needs to go at least 3/4 its length further forward to give you some further adjustment.
If you do decide to increase the size of the rudder make it deeper not wider as that will also increase the efficiency (higher aspect ratio).
You have a lovely garden. Something I miss very much hear in Mallorca - Spain
|Thread: Navigation lights in shrouds|
A 1930 cabin cruiser would probably have galvanised wire for the rigging and although tying on is quite likely, another method would be to use wire rope clips to stop the board from sliding up and down.
Commonly used is this type of arrangement where the U passes around the wire and the bolts pass through the wooden board to provide the clamping force.
|Thread: Building Ardent|
That's a really good looking boat Eddie. Congratulations.
The advice to lower the sails was good in my opinion.
What is next on your slipway?
|Thread: Elliott Bay Steamer|
I did start with good intentions but got distracted building a twin engine RC aircraft in the 2018 Mass Build. There is some planking and other techniques that might be of interest. If you want to take a peek click here
Having a good study of the plans and instructions is always a good idea. By doing this I made some early decisions about the build and what I would like to change. I also did some checking around on the internet and some very useful pointers came up and I have cribbed some of those. I will confess when they crop up.
The little oscillating engine is shown connected to the prop shaft with a length of silicone tubing. For one thing the prop shaft and the engine shaft are slightly different sizes with the engine being smaller. The tubing could probably cope with this but the real problem is the alignment.
These little engines are fun to watch and operate but have very little power. The engine is shown mounted flat in the cockpit floor and the prop shaft is at quite a different angle. This will soak up a lot of power and may even stop the engine working properly.
Engine bearers were made in mahogany to bring the engine at the right height and angle to match the propeller shaft. The "bolts" are M3 stainless steel cheese head machine screws inserted from below.
The cut-outs in the coaming sides were cut out after having built them according to the plan. On the internet there was a note about how close the firebox of the boiler came to the woodwork and I am sure they were correct. This was the fix and completed it looks very nice.
This is the underside of the cockpit sole and show duplicate sections of the bearers glued in place so that the heads of the machine screws have a parallel surface to work on. The slots of the machine screws are lined up to take a short length of piano wire. Don't use soft wire as it is not nearly so strong. The wires were held in place with dollops of epoxy.
The three pads (not on the plan) are to take the pins to locate the boiler. The holes for the pins can now be blind which will stop water leaking through.
This is what the scalloped out area looked like after re-sheeting and no there is a decent amount of clearance around the firebox.
|Thread: Building Ardent|
You are right to try to keep the water out. Once in it is much harder to get out!
If you pour the lead shot in first, the resin is not necessarily going to find its way past everything. You will only be able to thin it to a small degree without trapping the solvent.
If you put the resin in first you wont know how much to put in and you are not likely to get as much lead in as desired.
The best way is to pre-mix the shot and the resin into a mixture that will just pour and may sure your filling hole is as large as you can make it. OK you may waste a little bit to be sure of a complete fill but you are less likely to get any voids and the density will be as good as you can make it.
Not wanting to bang on about it but filling with lead shot is not very efficient. It a perfect world the lead balls would weigh about 75% of the same volume but solid. As the balls will be going in random this reduces to a more likely 65% and if you add in the resin (which you can't leave out!) the density will start to get close to 50% of what you would achieve with solid material. On motor boats where one is simply adding weight and probably low down to aid stability it doesn't often matter too much if it takes up more space. On a sailing boat needing to resist wind heeling forces it does help to concentrate the weight where it works best.
You are building to a design without scaling so I am not suggesting you should be worried by my remarks.
A couple of questions:
Is that open end of your keel at the bottom of the keel?
How are you fixing the lead shot in the keel?
Absolutely no offence taken and I was just using my IOM as an example of extreme leverage. I have other boats with shallow keels and some with no keel at all.
Why don't you start your own thread and then we don't have to worry about hijacking others. I will follow it with interest and if I get too annoying you can always press the "ignore member" button!
What to us is a light breeze will be like a roaring gale to a model yacht. Lengthening the keel as you are planning to do is not very efficient in achieving a good righting moment and neither is it particularly efficient hydro-dynamically. I understand why you are wanting to compromise on the draft and I would get the tallest wellies you can, but it is now going to be especially important to get the weight down a low as possible.
Here is a picture of my International One Metre (IOM) and these boats are highly efficient. The weight is concentrated very low and the foil has a high aspect ratio.
Mine is the red one on a medium rig in what would scale to storm conditions.
I would suggest, if you can, make a lead bulb that is attached externally. Easily done by casting in two halves and bolting through the keel. It is easy to estimate the volume (size) required to get the 3.6 kg suggested by Eddie. You could always aim to be slightly on the heavy side with the bulb as you can reduce its weight by shaving off material or drilling holes and filling with a lightweight material. A hollow keel is going to be a bit more difficult to construct and if not completely filled, water has a habit of finding its way in somehow.
Another important factor when limited by draft is to keep the weight of the rig as low as possible. Every gram saved will count.
|Thread: An old pond yacht|
Might be too late this time but if the glass tissue won't wrap around in one go you can always cut a few slits and overlap the material. If it really is tissue, the thickness at the overlaps can be blended out easily. Also there are plenty of lightweight glass cloths that allow the material to drape over quite tight curves. One of the classic demos was to mould a top hat with a single uncut layer.
I am slightly concerned about your epoxy and micro balloons as it will have no strength in tension. I see that the construction is "bread and butter" and if the wood swell through moisture getting in through the tiniest of holes it is likely to crack the filler and possibly the paintwork as well.
Sheathing is always going to give the most stable surface and the best result.
A credit to you Mattias.
|Thread: Detailing and Building Aesthetic Parts|
I have seen your thread on the build and very good work it is too.
Painting the cockpit sole the same colour as the deck would be perfect as in real life both would have a non-slip surface. Varnish great on the other bits like you suggest would look very good and clearly the quality of your joinery is up to it! Filler, even if well matched kills a highly polished varnish surface.
Subscribed to your build.
|Thread: Salt water|
I have only ever had models in the sea or estuarine rivers. Ron's advice about the annual strip-down is very good whether you sail in salt or fresh water and will help greatly in general reliability.
You can buy waterproof servos and although I haven't used them I can see applications where they could be very useful.
It helps to remember that sea / salt water conducts electricity and damp salty conditions can cause equipment to behave erratically on its way to failing and that could be dangerous. Another way of protecting receivers, battery packs is to put them inside balloons with the ends tied off maybe with a bit of silicone grease or similar.
Keep wires and connectors routed away from hatches and openings and do not let wires rest in the bottom of the hull where they are sure to get wet.
The red boat is my International One Metre (IOM) racing in a harbour using the medium rig. It was top end conditions for that rig but nobody changed for the smallest.
Here we are this time impersonating a submarine.
Here is the open sea and at the moment the boat is dismantled having its annual refit and a few mods.
|Thread: Detailing and Building Aesthetic Parts|
You mention waterproofing so I imagine it is a working model. If this is the case then keeping it simple will probably be best. Reefing for instance will be fiddly and it would be more usual to have different sized sails or even different rigs for the wind conditions. I have an International One Metre (IOM) and that has three separate rigs.
After holding my screen upside down the hull looks quite like a Star class which is certainly a traditional design.
My suggestion would be the ubiquitous white hull above the waterline. In real life there are not so many red or yellow boats and green is considered unlucky in some circles. Dark blue (royal or flag blue) is probably the next most popular after white.
Antifouling used to be universally red coloured and creates a traditional look. Racing yachts often use white as it is easy to see when it needs cleaning. There are many choices however but the most common are blue, green and black. If you choose white you may want to put a contrasting stripe at the waterline either with paint or tape.
The grain on the deck just looks like varnished plywood which is normally only seen on dinghies but in this cases the grain would treated very differently. A traditional yacht may have a canvass deck covering placed over planks or plywood and painted with a non-slip paint. Light blue or light buff would set the model off nicely using eggshell or matt paint. I just don't like shiny decks.
As Paul T suggests there is lots to see on the internet or pop into your local newsagent where you will find magazines on all types of boat.
A simple scheme but done well is the way to go I think.
|Thread: Bending Deck Planks|
Deck planks are rarely if ever steamed but normally follow the line of the deck edge until the curve becomes too great at which point they are either joggled or tapered.
I am building a Midwest kit Elliott Bat Steamer and decided to throw away the vacuum formed deck and make my own. The sub-deck is medium hard balsa that creates a nice fair surface and something to glue onto. The covering boards and the king plank are mahogany.
As it happens the planks are 3 x 1.5 mm Lime bought as standard from a model shop. Most of them were slightly bent so I used that in my favour. I cut the planks to length and shaped the ends having decided at which point there had to be a taper. (I discounted joggling at this scale as being to fussy and would horrid unless perfect)
Starting from the deck edge, each plank was sprung into place and secured with a dab of thin / rapid cyano. The balsa was very effective at wicking the glue under the plank. There was no problem at all springing the planks over most of the length but the stern has a fairly tight radius so the planks were run out in a taper.
The seams are painted and you can see the planks run right up to the bow.
At the stern I got most of the way but you can see how the taper works. This section was not quite finished with a couple of very short sections to fit. You can see the traces of the cyano forward of the hatch coaming and the cyano also made the acrylic black paint run slightly but a light sanding sorted that out.
I wouldn't steam deck planks as any curve that tight would look unnatural.
|Thread: Todays Boating|
It didn't register at first but your foils have got anhedral similar to the wings of a Harrier jump jet. This will make the boat unstable when foil-borne. The more it heels, the more it will want to heel. They are also fully immersed which would normally mean they would have to be dynamic rather than fixed.
Interesting experiment nonetheless.
You will have to set the foils at a positive angle of incidence (ie the water flow needs to meet the foils from the underside). How much incidence depends on the weight of the boat and the design speed. Too much and there will be a lot of drag that might even prevent the boat getting foil-borne and it would be skittish at high speed. Too little and there won't be enough lift resulting in the same thing. The angle is fairly critical.
Once the boat gets going you have to have some means of keeping the incidence positive because if it goes negative you will have a very spectacular nose dive. Remember also that your thrust line is high compared with a conventional prop. The foil on the rudder will have to control the incidence, support a good proportion of the weight and do the steering so it will be quite busy.
The best of luck and don't forget to take a video. It will be useful anyway for some fine tuning!
|Thread: Bilge keel on Titanic|
I think at that scale you are right they would be far too small to have any effect. Any larger and they would spoil that lovely look you have achieved.
Bilge keels of the type fitted to ships do not have any effect on stability but are primarily there for roll damping. Sometimes also used for keeping ships upright if they are intentional grounded or dried out.
|Thread: Elliott Bay Steamer|
I also have a little Midwest (Apprentice) dinghy kit and I would agree with you. The cutting and the wood selection was perfect. I think it only has a brass spit pin for the painter so I would agree with you completely.
A lucky moment on Ebay secured a Midwest kit of the Elliott Bay Steamer including the engine and boiler package.
Something fairly quick and easy or so I imagined but I did get a bit carried away. It comes in quite a large box to house the vacuum moulded hull and deck plus all the bits and pieces except glue and paint.
The moulded hull was reasonably fair but the deep narrow draw at the bow had left the material a bit thin and flexible. Elsewhere it was reasonably strong helped by the curvy sections. The quality of the wood was good and there was plenty of it. The same could not be said for the fittings but more of that later. The instructions were OK up to a point but followed to the letter would leave a weak hull to deck join and the placing of the battery switch on the foredeck is frankly daft.
This is not a build blog but a snapshot version concentrating on the variations I decided to do and the reasons why.