Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: All my model boat builds history|
You are truly a man of many talents. Some wonderful treasures there.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Ray is perfectly correct. You may however find that a frame is high in which case you can shave a bit off so it could be a combination of the two processes. Trial and error it will be but you will get there. Just remember to do the same both sides!
In my experience it is always best to correct errors as soon as you find them. This helps to stop them compounding. Sod's Law means later errors never cancel out but double!
I am having to do quite a bit of fairing up on the Thames Barge Kimberley I am build to the Veronica plan. I was very careful to cute the frames out accurately. The deck line and the chine lines came out clean but there was a nasty hollow in the aft sections where the curves of the section transition into the chines.
Unwanted hollows are bad news for two reasons:
The first is that you cannot sand the hollow out. You have to sand down the high areas all around and very soon you will run out of hull thickness. Slightly high spots are easy to deal with as they can be sanded down. They often occur where the planks are bent around the frames and do not take a fair curve. Clearly there is always a limit to how much material you can remove.
The second is that when painted, hollows (concave) surfaces stand out like a sore thumb from the light reflections whereas slight variations in convexity are hardly likely to be noticeable.
My planking is balsa starting with 2 layers of 1.5mm balsa which gets around the curves very well. Some high spots have been taken off the first layer but the hollows were filled with a lightweight filler. The first layer is probably about 80% fair and the remaining 20% I can get by sanding the second layer. The final external planking is 1mm mahogany.
It is worth taking the time to get the fairing correct. The shipwrights of old would never let anything pass through that was wonky!
You will probably end up doing planking in your sleep.
|Thread: What's the foresail on a cutter-rigged ketch called?|
Yes Richard. Convention has it that all vessels, regardless of gender are referred to as she. A number of reasons have been hypothesised most of which would get me thrown off the forum if I were to elaborate. I don't use the convention when I am writing survey reports.
Peter is on the money but just to further complicate a simple question:
If there is no bowsprit the inner headsail is called the staysail and is usually associated with an inner forestay. The forward sail set on a stay going to the stem head fitting is a jib if it does not overlap the mast and a genoa if is does.
George is one of the few modellers I have seen using a genoa on a model yacht.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
It won't be long. Last night I finished bevelling the frames and there was quite a bit of fairing up to do. The transition from the bow to the forward end of the chine is looking OK. I am not so sure about the aft end and there may have to be a bit of packing to prevent an unwanted hollow. The first layer of planking will be 3mm balsa to give me a bit of a sanding allowance to get everything fully fair. If necessary I will add some more in the hollow. The outside planking will be mahogany which will give me a nice hard surface. If I don't fill the grain I hope to get an authentic aged look with the butts and seams all in the right scale place. Underwater however with be a smooth as the proverbial.........
The planking will be a long process so I will probably take some breaks to make leeboards, fittings and the rig. I have some lovely bits of bronze left over from a full sized project.
Investing how I can stain Mylar film a Tan colour - only joking!!
Are you starting your own model barge association Ray.
Must work harder on Kimberley, must work harder, must work harder, must work .......................
|Thread: Yachting Monthly Eventide|
Another gem Ray.
Chris. I think Ray is controlling the main only leaving the jib to self-tack. The main is much larger than the jib so shouldn't affect the downwind performance that much.
Looking forward to seeing your Faireys on the water.
|Thread: Commodores Challenge|
Looks like I should modify my suggest to "plug in and stand well back"
These are the words I found on the Wheelspin Models website for a J Perkins ESC with exactly the same part number and characteristics as yours:
Automatic set-up. Just ensure the trims on the transmitter are in the neutral position and the "travel adjust" or "end points" are set at 100%.
Usual disclaimer but looks a bit like plug and play.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Epoxy sheet is quite expensive here and not always available. I have the raw materials so making the keel box sides was very easy.
I have various random weights of woven and non-woven glass. I have no ide what the weights are so they are selected on the basis of the lightest material that I think will do the job. This saves on resin too as there is less to wet out. The sides of the keel box are birch ply as supposed to Liteply and so most of the required strength is in the wood and the epoxy provides the wear surface and the water resistance.
A piece of ply was cut sufficiently large to do the two sides with a bit of a margin and the epoxy and fabric laid up on the wood trying to get the amount of epoxy uniform over the entire surface.
The lay-up was then covered with a piece of waxed glass and then weighted down.
The work was then brought inside to slowly come back to room temperature before releasing it. This is important to maintain complete flatness through the temperature change. I sincerely hope it will never get as hot as 65 degrees again!
Here is the finished sheet and the epoxy is rock hard.
It was not quite as good as the bought-in stuff as the weave did not completely fill. It was however fully wetted out so it will perform fine. It would be nice to have vacuum bagging equipment (one day) and then the weave would have filled 100%. It would have been a lot more weights to match atmospheric pressure.
My version requires some modifications to the internal structure to support the keel which is being housed in a box and capable of being adjusted longitudinally. The idea is to end up with two positions in case I ever go for the big rig.
Here, 3 frames have been left as bulkheads but as yet I have no plan for the winches and rigging below decks to I am just cutting out reasonably sized apertures. The bulkheads are ganged up and taped together so everything lines up for sawing out in one hit. For those familiar with the drawings they are frames 4, 4 1/2 and 5.
|Thread: Tucker Silhouette Mk2 (see album)|
Simply wonderful Nigel
You have captured the essence of the Silhouette perfectly.
|Thread: JIF 65|
By the time you clean it up and drill a couple of fixing holes you won't be far off. You are not going to be breaking any rules so lead left on the keel will be more use than lead filings on the floor!
What is the weight incidentally?
|Thread: TEV Wahine 1/35 Build|
Like Colin, I re-read the entire thread yesterday evening and it is clear that everyone is rooting for you.
|Thread: Fairey Swordsman 33|
Quality Chris, Quality
Priceless and ultimately timeless.
|Thread: Ouch - Biff on the nose|
Thank you gents, one and all. It was fun doing it.
Thanks as always for your encouraging comments.
What happened was that as I set of for a second run, one of my pals stepped in front of me. For a moment I couldn't see a thing but knew that the wall was coming up so steered to port, or so I thought. When my view cleared it was heading straight for it. I only had time to cut the throttle but that made little difference. I just put it down to bad driving. When I found the disconnect later I realised that I had actually tried to turn but that wasn't happening!
I found a new bolt in my spares box and it is fixed with Loctite. The version that you need heat to disassemble.
Can't wait to try it again and get the engine fully run in and tuned. I made a few mods to make it faster and they worked!
Next to make the mould.
Bits of pine chopped up to make the mould case.
The mould is filled with liquid silicone catalysed at 5%. This particular silicone will give a Shore hardness around 25 which is nicely squidgy. This time is very very careful to mix the liquid and catalyst very gently to avoid trapped air. I was also very careful with the filling to bring it just to the edge. On the Boxkite bumper I underfilled one so it ended up with a thin wobbly edge. The second I overfilled and both gave me a really hard time trimming.
This one is as-poured and you can see, the top is nice and flat. Another observation is that there are tiny "ears" on the silicone. This is where there were tiny pinholes in the epoxy mould. If you look closely you will see some black dots and these are where more prominent pockets were filled with polyester and dressed to shape. Having female features in a mould (ie small recessed blemishes) is not the end of the world as they will be male features (bumps) in the product and can be easily trimmed out. Have male blemishes in a female mould is not good as it will leave hollows that are much harder to deal with. I am sure there is a metaphor in there somewhere!! When I was learning to be a pattern-maker we were taught a lot about genders!!
So here we have the faithfully reproduced product - another metaphor!! and complete with a little ear to be trimmed.
It is very bright white so I looked up to see if there where pigments for silicone imagining there had to be. I found an American company that do a fluorescent orange which would be perfect. Many full sized racing boat have day-glo orange bows because they are designed not to sink but float with only the bow sticking out above the water. Lots of photos on the internet.
Look out stone walls of cisterns as we can now drive it like a hooligan.
The pattern is made from softish balsa.
I do have some balsa blocks but for this tiny item is was less wasteful to stick two bits together.
Stuck onto the flat bow with double sided tape and roughly sawn to shape.
The tape is to protect the gelcoat from the sandpaper. When the tape gets roughed up a bit it is time to stop.
That's it and we have a new nose. The temptation is to leave it there and paint it. No, we have to stick to plan.
First coat of high build spray primer and a light rub down. Two more to go and then we have the pattern.|
I did try some rubbery foam but it was difficult to cut and carve to shape. The silicone bumpers I made for the the Boxkite were OK. Funnily enough the first one came out better than the second but that's often the case isn't it?
I need some more practice I decided and once you have the mould making spares is a doddle.
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