Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fairey Huntsman|
I have wondered why that is Chris? Is it to keep the end of the stern tube above the normal waterline and therefore remove the risk of leaks.
Ray won't mind I am sure. I have moved the motor as far aft as I possibly can which is actually quite a lot. I made a cardboard cut-out of the motor profile to see where it will go. Another advantage to me is that I can now dispense with the forward hatch. I am happy to trade this off for a minor leak.
It would be good to know.
It is very hard to imagine a designer of a full size boat being happy with producing a bow down attitude at rest. I am not talking about about extreme or racing boats but boats that people buy to go cruising in. The normal datum for a boat is either the waterline or an arbitrary line parallel to the waterline but below the deepest part of the keel (the latter most common for motor boats). All the bulkheads, interior joinery and the cabin soles will relate to the datum either being at right angles (bulkheads) or parallel (cabin sole). If the weight distribution is wrong and the boat is bow down against it's designed waterline at rest it would be very noticeable inside and unnatural. It is very odd and slightly uncomfortable and would not be tolerated.
Fore and aft trim at rest is therefore important. Likewise it is not good to have a permanent list. Trim errors at the sort of angles we are talking about have very little effect stability. A boat can be significantly out of trim and still be perfectly stable. The extremes however can be quite dangerous and a classic example will probably be familiar to those who sail dinghies or use speedboats. If you climb onto the foredeck and the stern comes out of the water the boat becomes unstable. If you mate then joins you, you are very likely to capsize. This is because you have made the waterplane very narrow at the bow and useful waterplane is now in fresh air.
In my experience trim is a good word to describe how a vessel sits at rest and attitude best describes the position the boat adopts when the boat is moving. I think it is quite useful to make the distinction.
As far as adding weights is concerned if there if there is nothing left to move, it is almost always better to move a lighter weight as far away as possible from the longitudinal centre of buoyancy. The shorter the distance the more weight you have to add to shift the longitudinal centre of gravity.
I have the Precedent kit to be fitted with an Enya 35 marine glow engine. The instructions warn about the tendency for the complete boat to be bow down at rest (out of trim). For this reason I have worked to get the engine about 40mm back from where it was shown on the plan and everything else will have the possibility of going aft as far as possible. Let's see if that works.
|Thread: 540 Model Sails|
I get mine from SailsEtc.
Looking at your photos, there is reinforcement around the eyelets. Same sort of thing like I said is required at both ends of the join.
Ashely has it about right. I make sails, so clean off the old residue and use new double-sided tape. If it is Mylar you can use acetone to get rid of the old stuff. If not, use white spirit.
You could make the overlap of the joints a fraction wider. You will lose a small amount of luff length if you do. The most important thing is to reinforce the join at each end to stop the "peeling" effect. The best material to use is Mylar tape on films. On woven materials I use deck patch or sail number material. Cut out a disc or a diamond shape and fold it over the end of the join.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Hello Eddie and Stuart.
It took over a week but in the end the hard drive gave up its treasures and I have everything restored. I haven't lost any of the photos so I will be putting up some of the latest progress on Kimberley.
|Thread: Osprey - Trip Boat 28'|
You deserve to be pleased Ray. It's a cracking model that exudes character in spite of its simplicity. That's a hard act.
Free plan or have I missed something already?
|Thread: First Models|
Mine was a catamaran with the "hulls" made from a piece of pine ogee door frame material. The cross beams were the same and a dowel mast holding up something vaguely resembling sails.
The waterline ended up being about halfway up the cross beams and it was a complete failure (except that Dad later said it made great kindling).
I learned a lot however and have always liked model yachts. As an adult and yacht surveyor I have never liked catamarans and suppose there could be some connection.
Not long after I made a land yacht with the same materials and that did work - sort of.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Very interesting and great progress.
I had an IT calamity about 10 days ago when the hard drive simply vanished while online on a news feed. I tried re-starting and got the ominous message - hard drive not found!.
It is still at the computer repair shop and after a week of recovering nothing, they told me yesterday that they were starting to find some files. They are now my best friends as although I was quite well backed up, it is always a huge inconvenience and some of my recent photos (of Kimberley) did not get on the backup.
As a salutary footnote, when it happened I found the underside of the laptop to be far too hot despite the fan working. I can understand a hard drive failure through getting cooked but if it is a solid state hard drive like mine it can apparently self-destruct, vanish if the drive gets too full. I am told that once the memory gets to around 90% full it can become unstable and on some systems, fail without any warning. That could have happened to mine as the hard drive was about 90% full but I am inclined to think it was the high temperature - no hot electric smells however.
Sorry about thee diversion but if you have a solid state hard drive beware. They are great for speed but vulnerable in these aspects.
Hope to be back with photos soon.
|Thread: A couple of IOM yachts|
Spectacular job Eddie
Very well done.
|Thread: Todays Boating|
Your ratio of photos to posts needs some adjusting.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Thanks for the photos and yes I can use them. The area that really interests me is the round bilge to chine transitions. It is easy to cheat on the first layers but I would like the final planking to be as authentic as possible.
I know Ray. it will be underwater but I can't help it!
Recovering from a hard disk failure and the loss of a number of recent build photos
You are doing fine. I am going for three layers of planking. The first as a base like you to fill and fair where necessary. The second layer of balsa to give me some thickness and backing to work with and a final layer of mahogany planking arranged as close to scale as I can.
Good stuff with the tapered planking.
The Veronica plans and presumably wood pack lack frames where the shapes are the most radical. Your plans are better in that respect.
The thing is that Ray could make at least three models in the time it takes us to make 1/2 a model. Ray has talent that combines velocity and quality.
For scale planking it will be the garboard that is the most difficult and sets the scene for the rest of the planking and they always start from wider planks and have some edge shaping. I am actively searching for some drawings of a planking regime for a TSB if anyone can help.
|Thread: Triple Screw Boat|
I wonder if there is any particular reason that you want triple screw?
Your hull moulding is very clearly designed for twin screw and to add a third it looks like you would have to shorten the centreline skeg.
Going for three will add complication for no significant advantage if any. If something more complex is your aim however - go for it!
|Thread: All my model boat builds history|
And Bob you have a pond.
They are quite difficult in Mallorca but not impossible.
My grandad was a loco builder and had an up and down track in his garden in Claygate, Surrey. It was 7 1/4" and there was a bridge over a lovely established pond. I still have the scent of the water mint in my nose whenever I want to conjure it up. I always had my own pond for that reason until I left the UK in 2007.
Possibly the best smell in the world is hot working steam oil, fired by some genuine Welsh steam coal and garnished with a bit of mint.
Three cheers for this thread.
You are truly a man of many talents. Some wonderful treasures there.
|Thread: Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter|
Ray is perfectly correct. You may however find that a frame is high in which case you can shave a bit off so it could be a combination of the two processes. Trial and error it will be but you will get there. Just remember to do the same both sides!
In my experience it is always best to correct errors as soon as you find them. This helps to stop them compounding. Sod's Law means later errors never cancel out but double!
I am having to do quite a bit of fairing up on the Thames Barge Kimberley I am build to the Veronica plan. I was very careful to cute the frames out accurately. The deck line and the chine lines came out clean but there was a nasty hollow in the aft sections where the curves of the section transition into the chines.
Unwanted hollows are bad news for two reasons:
The first is that you cannot sand the hollow out. You have to sand down the high areas all around and very soon you will run out of hull thickness. Slightly high spots are easy to deal with as they can be sanded down. They often occur where the planks are bent around the frames and do not take a fair curve. Clearly there is always a limit to how much material you can remove.
The second is that when painted, hollows (concave) surfaces stand out like a sore thumb from the light reflections whereas slight variations in convexity are hardly likely to be noticeable.
My planking is balsa starting with 2 layers of 1.5mm balsa which gets around the curves very well. Some high spots have been taken off the first layer but the hollows were filled with a lightweight filler. The first layer is probably about 80% fair and the remaining 20% I can get by sanding the second layer. The final external planking is 1mm mahogany.
It is worth taking the time to get the fairing correct. The shipwrights of old would never let anything pass through that was wonky!
You will probably end up doing planking in your sleep.
|Thread: What's the foresail on a cutter-rigged ketch called?|
Yes Richard. Convention has it that all vessels, regardless of gender are referred to as she. A number of reasons have been hypothesised most of which would get me thrown off the forum if I were to elaborate. I don't use the convention when I am writing survey reports.
Peter is on the money but just to further complicate a simple question:
If there is no bowsprit the inner headsail is called the staysail and is usually associated with an inner forestay. The forward sail set on a stay going to the stem head fitting is a jib if it does not overlap the mast and a genoa if is does.
George is one of the few modellers I have seen using a genoa on a model yacht.
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
It won't be long. Last night I finished bevelling the frames and there was quite a bit of fairing up to do. The transition from the bow to the forward end of the chine is looking OK. I am not so sure about the aft end and there may have to be a bit of packing to prevent an unwanted hollow. The first layer of planking will be 3mm balsa to give me a bit of a sanding allowance to get everything fully fair. If necessary I will add some more in the hollow. The outside planking will be mahogany which will give me a nice hard surface. If I don't fill the grain I hope to get an authentic aged look with the butts and seams all in the right scale place. Underwater however with be a smooth as the proverbial.........
The planking will be a long process so I will probably take some breaks to make leeboards, fittings and the rig. I have some lovely bits of bronze left over from a full sized project.
Investing how I can stain Mylar film a Tan colour - only joking!!
Are you starting your own model barge association Ray.
Must work harder on Kimberley, must work harder, must work harder, must work .......................
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