Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 1/48 Mountfleet Models Sir Lancelot|
All that lovely green stuff and the boat's pretty good too!
|Thread: Machine Tools|
Be careful with metal. An entirely different prospect from wood. That is not a very rigid set up and you need to watch the cutting tool does not grab in the metal. You also need to be careful that any vibration from the tool does not loosen the chuck. Proper mills hold the tools in collets.
In fact be careful with all materials.
|Thread: Model Boats October 2020|
I hope it gets to our local newsagent in Mallorca.
|Thread: Yachting Monthly Eventide|
Coming along very nicely indeed.
I have a fear of building movable things in permanently so I would have chickened out and made the skeg with a removeable heel fitting.
|Thread: Tack cloths and finishing|
Edited By Tim Rowe on 01/08/2020 12:59:38
I use both. Microfibre first and then tack cloths.
There is no way I would ditch the tack cloths.
|Thread: water jet boat|
There is some confusion creeping in here. Jets are nearly always underwater when the boat is on its static waterline but when a boat moves its waterline changes. On a planing boat the water break away from the transom so although the jets are still below the static waterline they are not now working underwater. That the difference and Chris was on the right track
In principle a jet is a precision pump whose function is to squirt water out the back. Some of the water going through the pump is due to suction especially at low speeds but the ram effect contribution increases with speed. Jets do not need to push against anything to make them work. They work on a reaction principle and in that way they are different from propellers, ducted propellers and thrusters. The impellers also operate at very high speeds as usually there is direct drive with no reduction gearboxes. The outlet nozzles are nearly always convergent as this accelerates the flow. This is important.
One of Newton's famous laws is that if you double the speed applied to any given mass the force is quadrupled. Velocity if the jet is therefore paramount to maximising the applied force (reaction). While jets do work under water, they coming into their own venting into atmosphere as this provides the least possible hindrance to the velocity.
Think of a fire hose. A plain hose will pump out lots of water but it won't travel very far. Add a normal tapered nozzle and you now have a very powerful jet that may require four firemen to control. The reaction has increased enormously. If you now stick the nozzle in water. The force will dramatically reduce. A simple experiment that you can do with a garden hose and a bucket.
This was discussed in Bob Abell's Brutus thread and Paul T did not agree with me. I did not want to hijack that thread and this one presented a better opportunity for a fuller explanation.
|Thread: Clinker built rowing boat|
You're a brave man Brian
Genuine Clinker construction is quite unforgiving and at the scale you are doing, very fiddly. I would be interested what book you have been referring to.
If you will pardon my comment on your design. You have drawn something more like a fishing boat hull but in any case a hull that will need serious amounts of ballast to be stable. Rowing boats have much flatter bottoms even if they have round bilges. Pram dinghies which have a transom at the bow and at the stern are much easier to build clinker style than dinghies that have a stem like yours. Maybe you can morph it into something else but at the moment it is going to be a strange rowing dinghy. Without ballast it will list one way or another and the correct term for that is loll. ie unstable when upright which when you think about it is a weird condition for a boat.
Following because I really like to see things a bit out of the ordinary.
|Thread: Yachting Monthly Eventide|
Another great subject Ray
|Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff|
Its a conundrum about the curves on the horse. In reality it is one curve that is shared between the radius and the camber.
I did the same thing some while ago and at first wondered how I was going to make two curves in the same piece of brass tube then it clicked. In the end I found that a radius only ned to be a fraction shorter to account for the camber.
I'd love to do some barge racing but first I have to build me a barge and it's a long way from Mallorca.
Perhaps I should make a mould and hack out a few one designs to see if I can drum up some local interest.
|Thread: Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version|
Great to see you back Chris
Few marques managed to equal or beat the Fairey range and all were hugely more expensive.
I will see if I can do justice to the Spearfish kit you kindly sold me.
Looking forward to the Fisherman and then you might need an Atlanta
|Thread: Boxkite IOM yacht|
That must have been hugely satisfying Eddie. Congratulations.
Well done Eddie
That's a great looking boat and being a Bantock, should be be a real performer.
It would be great to see some photos of the innards.
|Thread: BRUTUS MK 11|
You can have as much power as you like in a conventional bow thruster and as effectively they are ducted propellers, they are very efficient. If you were going to use jets they would have to exit above the water which would make some very interesting viewing if tugboats were to use them. The jet works on the principle of mass x velocity. If the jet is submerged you have no velocity so not much use. To use another analogy a jet can have very high power but not much torque so great when you want to achieve speed. A propeller can be configured to absorb much torque, large and slow.
As much as I admire experimentation I stand by my point that bow / stern thrusters are principally manoeuvring devices and the rudder is hear to stay Voigt Schneider and Azimut type propulsion units excepted but these are only ever used in displacement mode.
Bow thrusters don't work unless you are stopped or moving very slowly. Not a practical idea for steering I'm afraid.
|Thread: Comanche 32|
All lockdown restrictions ended today in Spain so I hope the same is for you soon. Looks fabulous on the water and looking forward to seeing you put her through the paces.
Edited By Tim Rowe on 22/06/2020 20:22:48
|Thread: BRUTUS MK 11|
I am watching Bob with considerable interest.
|Thread: Spektrum radio|
To DM and all
I didn't explain the feature very well and I am glad to see the record put straight. I think what I meant to say has been well described. My apologies.
The Spektrum DX6i is an entry level programmable radio for many aeromodellers and there are many more of those than there are model boating people. A 7th or 8th channel is useful when you start adding feature such as flaps and working undercarriage. Complicated gliders can soak up a lot of channels as well. We tend to use far less channels and probably most only need 2 basic channels like Ray suggests.
There is a lot of snobbery around concerning radio gear but Spektrum is the most used and a recent poll showed that there nearly as many Spektrum users as the rest of the brands put together.
The DX6i (there are quite a few versions over the years) is programmable. It has model memory so you can bind a particular Rx to a memory and all the setting for that model are retained and you can't operate the wrong model by mistake. This is useful if you have lots of models. You can also programme the end point of servo travels. Marginally useful for motor boats but very useful for sailing boats with winches or lever arm servos.
I have two second-hand bought from Ebay. Two because I gave one to a friend for his yacht. Make sure you know what mode you are buying as I don't think the DX6i has the option to change. Sonmeone may correct me on that.
Planet got good reviews if you only need a basic set.
|Thread: applying epoxy to hull|
Your model like you said is not going to be sitting in a marina staying wet all the time so what we do is probably a huge overkill. Except perhaps for Bob who bravely is using hardboard in his latest build. In industrial use there are comprehensive data sheets that tell you exactly when and how extra coats can be applied and cure times etc. Advice for modellers products is sometimes a bit thin.
However because your epoxy primer probably has solvents, to be on the safe side I would apply it to cured sub-coats to avoid the risk of the solvents softening or spoiling the cure. The other thing is that if you apply the primer to a rough surface you are going to sand most of it off so personally I would try to put it onto a relatively smooth base.
I absolutely agree with Colin and there are some excellent high build primers (not epoxy as it is not necessary) that come in aerosols and are very easy to sand. That is what they are designed for. Depending on the colour you can then often go straight to a top coat(s).
The epoxy you are using is the dog's danglies. Used on competition model gliders and precision work. I use it for special jobs and it doesn't bloom. The stuff I am having trouble with is industrial and I am beginning to wonder if it is a faulty batch or been on the shelf too long or something because I have used huge amounts in former jobs.
Hope this helps.
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