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Member postings for Tim Rowe

Here is a list of all the postings Tim Rowe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Blunders and Co-k ups
10/09/2021 17:40:08

Hello Paul

That would be fire and explosion proof from the outside.

One lights up and the rest go too.

Don't stand in the way of the door!!!

Tim R

Thread: 2021 Builds during lockdowns
03/08/2021 17:35:35

Hello Richard

Just a detail if you don't mind me pointing it out. You have added the engine bearers but in real life they would never rest directly on the planking. In the case of your clinker hull they would rest on the timbers / ribs whatever you like to call them and may or may not touch the planking. In your case, the weight of the engine is trying to push the planking off the timbers and it time it would.

A completely true to scale hull would have timbers spaced much closer together. At the moment you are resting on two. The longitudinal bearers on a full scale boat would probably rest on at least four and also extend at least one spacing past the front and rear of the engine to further spread the load.

Great hull and great project though. Watching with interest along with all these other builds.

Tim R

Thread: Great Eastern
01/08/2021 11:56:19

I served my apprenticeship with Appledore Shipyard in North Devon. It was twinned with Sunderland Shipbuilder and both were owned by Court Line who had travel and airline interests. Both yards were unique in the UK at the time because the ships were 95% completed under cover in a dry dock. Another first were the buildings that were built by Condor of Winchester and were the largest single span covered buildings in the UK.

At Appledore the high tidal range o the Bristol Channel allowed the ships to by floated out. The capacity at Appledore was up to 10,000 GT and slightly larger at Sunderland. Construction was completely modular.

There were up to 6 ships under construction at any one time in various stages:

The whole operation was geared to the Lunar cycle (tides) and on average we launched a ship every 8 weeks.

No operation in the UK could get anywhere close to that.

I came out as a fully qualified shipwright 1973 50 1977

Tim R

Thread: Returning modeller
30/07/2021 09:48:03

Note to myself

"Must but shares in Planet"

Tim R

Thread: Osprey - Trip Boat 28'
29/07/2021 11:54:59

Hello Ray

I let my subscription lapse after the articles had gone their cycle as they eventually do. I have more free plans than I know what to do with and the Minimoa would be too big for me. I get lots of enjoyment watching other people build such beauties.

Bated breath Ashley!

Tim R

28/07/2021 17:06:09

Hello Ray

I knew it would come good for a plan. I have a subscription now so I will get it.

Nice one.

Tim R

Thread: Fairey Huntsman
22/07/2021 21:52:50

I have wondered why that is Chris? Is it to keep the end of the stern tube above the normal waterline and therefore remove the risk of leaks.

Ray won't mind I am sure. I have moved the motor as far aft as I possibly can which is actually quite a lot. I made a cardboard cut-out of the motor profile to see where it will go. Another advantage to me is that I can now dispense with the forward hatch. I am happy to trade this off for a minor leak.

It would be good to know.

Tim R

22/07/2021 16:01:31

It is very hard to imagine a designer of a full size boat being happy with producing a bow down attitude at rest. I am not talking about about extreme or racing boats but boats that people buy to go cruising in. The normal datum for a boat is either the waterline or an arbitrary line parallel to the waterline but below the deepest part of the keel (the latter most common for motor boats). All the bulkheads, interior joinery and the cabin soles will relate to the datum either being at right angles (bulkheads) or parallel (cabin sole). If the weight distribution is wrong and the boat is bow down against it's designed waterline at rest it would be very noticeable inside and unnatural. It is very odd and slightly uncomfortable and would not be tolerated.

Fore and aft trim at rest is therefore important. Likewise it is not good to have a permanent list. Trim errors at the sort of angles we are talking about have very little effect stability. A boat can be significantly out of trim and still be perfectly stable. The extremes however can be quite dangerous and a classic example will probably be familiar to those who sail dinghies or use speedboats. If you climb onto the foredeck and the stern comes out of the water the boat becomes unstable. If you mate then joins you, you are very likely to capsize. This is because you have made the waterplane very narrow at the bow and useful waterplane is now in fresh air.

Richard is right when the subject moves to dynamic stability and that is very often optimised for a certain speed range. A planing hull can be quite tender at rest and considerably more stable when on the plane. Push it too hard though and there is not enough boat in the water to provide the stability and it may get very twitchy, either chine walking or porpoising or BOTH. Round hull semi-displacement boats that may be perfectly happy up to say 20 knots and can, and have been known become dynamically unstable if pushed to far. Very scary!

In my experience trim is a good word to describe how a vessel sits at rest and attitude best describes the position the boat adopts when the boat is moving. I think it is quite useful to make the distinction.

As far as adding weights is concerned if there if there is nothing left to move, it is almost always better to move a lighter weight as far away as possible from the longitudinal centre of buoyancy. The shorter the distance the more weight you have to add to shift the longitudinal centre of gravity.

I have the Precedent kit to be fitted with an Enya 35 marine glow engine. The instructions warn about the tendency for the complete boat to be bow down at rest (out of trim). For this reason I have worked to get the engine about 40mm back from where it was shown on the plan and everything else will have the possibility of going aft as far as possible. Let's see if that works.

Tim R

Thread: 540 Model Sails
22/07/2021 08:09:01

I get mine from SailsEtc.

Looking at your photos, there is reinforcement around the eyelets. Same sort of thing like I said is required at both ends of the join.

Tim R

21/07/2021 15:52:42

Ashely has it about right. I make sails, so clean off the old residue and use new double-sided tape. If it is Mylar you can use acetone to get rid of the old stuff. If not, use white spirit.

You could make the overlap of the joints a fraction wider. You will lose a small amount of luff length if you do. The most important thing is to reinforce the join at each end to stop the "peeling" effect. The best material to use is Mylar tape on films. On woven materials I use deck patch or sail number material. Cut out a disc or a diamond shape and fold it over the end of the join.

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
18/07/2021 07:21:49

Hello Eddie and Stuart.

It took over a week but in the end the hard drive gave up its treasures and I have everything restored. I haven't lost any of the photos so I will be putting up some of the latest progress on Kimberley.


Tim R

Thread: Osprey - Trip Boat 28'
18/07/2021 07:16:56

You deserve to be pleased Ray. It's a cracking model that exudes character in spite of its simplicity. That's a hard act.

Free plan or have I missed something already?

Tim R

Thread: First Models
10/07/2021 11:43:37

Mine was a catamaran with the "hulls" made from a piece of pine ogee door frame material. The cross beams were the same and a dowel mast holding up something vaguely resembling sails.

The waterline ended up being about halfway up the cross beams and it was a complete failure (except that Dad later said it made great kindling).

I learned a lot however and have always liked model yachts. As an adult and yacht surveyor I have never liked catamarans and suppose there could be some connection.

Not long after I made a land yacht with the same materials and that did work - sort of.

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
10/07/2021 09:30:40

Thanks Eddie

Very interesting and great progress.

I had an IT calamity about 10 days ago when the hard drive simply vanished while online on a news feed. I tried re-starting and got the ominous message - hard drive not found!.

It is still at the computer repair shop and after a week of recovering nothing, they told me yesterday that they were starting to find some files. They are now my best friends as although I was quite well backed up, it is always a huge inconvenience and some of my recent photos (of Kimberley) did not get on the backup.

As a salutary footnote, when it happened I found the underside of the laptop to be far too hot despite the fan working. I can understand a hard drive failure through getting cooked but if it is a solid state hard drive like mine it can apparently self-destruct, vanish if the drive gets too full. I am told that once the memory gets to around 90% full it can become unstable and on some systems, fail without any warning. That could have happened to mine as the hard drive was about 90% full but I am inclined to think it was the high temperature - no hot electric smells however.

Sorry about thee diversion but if you have a solid state hard drive beware. They are great for speed but vulnerable in these aspects.

Hope to be back with photos soon.

Tim R

Thread: A couple of IOM yachts
09/07/2021 17:42:28

Spectacular job Eddie

Very well done.

Tim R

Thread: Todays Boating
09/07/2021 10:25:30

Yes Ashley

Your ratio of photos to posts needs some adjusting. wink

Tim R

Thread: Thames Sailing Barge Stuff
06/07/2021 17:57:36

Hello Eddie

Thanks for the photos and yes I can use them. The area that really interests me is the round bilge to chine transitions. It is easy to cheat on the first layers but I would like the final planking to be as authentic as possible.

I know Ray. it will be underwater but I can't help it!

Tim R

Recovering from a hard disk failure and the loss of a number of recent build photos cryingcryingdont know

05/07/2021 20:42:00

Relax Eddie

You are doing fine. I am going for three layers of planking. The first as a base like you to fill and fair where necessary. The second layer of balsa to give me some thickness and backing to work with and a final layer of mahogany planking arranged as close to scale as I can.

Good stuff with the tapered planking.

The Veronica plans and presumably wood pack lack frames where the shapes are the most radical. Your plans are better in that respect.

The thing is that Ray could make at least three models in the time it takes us to make 1/2 a model. Ray has talent that combines velocity and quality.

For scale planking it will be the garboard that is the most difficult and sets the scene for the rest of the planking and they always start from wider planks and have some edge shaping. I am actively searching for some drawings of a planking regime for a TSB if anyone can help.

Best regards

Tim R

Thread: Triple Screw Boat
05/07/2021 08:43:45

Helllo QQ

I wonder if there is any particular reason that you want triple screw?

Your hull moulding is very clearly designed for twin screw and to add a third it looks like you would have to shorten the centreline skeg.

Going for three will add complication for no significant advantage if any. If something more complex is your aim however - go for it!

Tim R

Thread: All my model boat builds history
26/06/2021 19:36:15

And Bob you have a pond.

They are quite difficult in Mallorca but not impossible.

My grandad was a loco builder and had an up and down track in his garden in Claygate, Surrey. It was 7 1/4" and there was a bridge over a lovely established pond. I still have the scent of the water mint in my nose whenever I want to conjure it up. I always had my own pond for that reason until I left the UK in 2007.

Possibly the best smell in the world is hot working steam oil, fired by some genuine Welsh steam coal and garnished with a bit of mint.

Three cheers for this thread.

Tim R

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