Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Motor /Controller /Prop upgrade|
Hi Dave, try the 380 as Ashley said, but as he also says, that motor can vary according to manufacturer, I have 1 rated at 6 volts maximum. Try it with a 30 mm prop first, if it burns out, nothing lost. ( in the bath so you don't lose the boat.) If it works, that's great, if not get a better motor. If you have an ammeter, you can test it all properly, if not stick to the above.
Ditch the bobs board, not up to the job at all.
Sorry, I missed part of your question. Pulley drives are great for plodding models, forget about them for a quick one. Twin drive is possible in a quick 16 inch boat, but will need care, skill, experience and luck. Forget about that too.
I was about to post suggesting a 400 motor but Ashley has beaten me to it. Would I be correct in assuming that the model has a relatively narrow beam, I.e. not built like a racing model. If so too much power will be bad idea. To get some idea about small fast boats look on YouTube at club 500 boats. These are a little bigger than yours, but using not much more power than we are suggesting go very quickly. They were also designed to be stable, yours might not be.
A modest brushless set up will go much faster, is that a good idea?
Hope that helps a bit.
|Thread: Bardic Ferry, special thanks to Tony Hadley|
Thanks all, it was a very enjoyable build. Ray, I'm very tempted by the Cossack build, I've been following the thread with interest and the hull method is nearly identical to Bardic. Vic Smeeds trademark methods I expect, where would model making be without his legacy.
Anyway, whilst the paint was drying on Bardic, I made a decent start on one of Gar Woods boats ( the many times water speed record holder) so that will keep me busy for a while.
I might join in anyway, making 2 at once will give a bit of relief from 100 plus planks of mahogany, but probably to the original size, I've too many large models.
Almost exactly a year ago Tony very kindly forwarded me the discontinued plans for Vic Smeeds Bardic Ferry. It was one of those models I never quite got around to building but had always wanted to make. At last I got it on the water today for first test and ballasting.
I had better say from the start I don't call myself a scale modeler, and no way is this a true scale model, it's close but the windows, crane etc etc are different. Why? because failing eyesight, arthritis in the hands and a complete lack of willpower to go the extra mile are beyond me.
I set out to make a rugged fun to sail model so details like stantions are just soldered up brass wire. Not accurate but very strong, The same is true with most of the fittings, made to stand up to my clumsyness.
I've also broken the rules by fitting steerable kort rudders and a bow thruster made from a car washer pump. They aren't on the original but I wanted them.
Anyway today was the first time out, it all worked and it was a joy to sail, the pump will spin the model on the spot surprisingly quickly, and the korts make it very manouverable. Two 385 motors on 7.2 volts can make it go well above scale speed, but that's what the throttle stick is for.
I'm looking forward to taking it to the club lake soon for a proper day out.
Thanks again Tony, I wouldn't have done this without your help.
|Thread: British brig|
Bob, you've made many great models, but this Brig is outstanding, it captures to poise beautifully. Congrats.
|Thread: Unknown model|
Nick, it's not instantly recognisable so please give some idea of size, construction etc. Wood? Fibreglass? Family heirloom? internet purchase? Any clues to age? Motor installed? Coupling type? Any electronics inside?
I'm not being picky, it's just that all those things give us some pointers.
|Thread: GoPro on boat|
Hi John, you don't say where you are based, but there's probably a model boat club somewhere near you. It's worth approaching then for some help and advice. You might also find some members happy to give your camera a 'trial run' on their models so you can see what to expect from large and small models of different types.
Every club I've been in over the years has had some members who'll jump at the chance to try something different and interesting.
|Thread: Another Rudder/Prop question.|
Ahhh, another can of worms. I've read posts in the past saying "do it this way, or do it that way" Full size practice is xxxxxx. Like many ordinary time served modellers, I've tried all the permutations. Guess what, there was no difference in the performance in any of the models I've made.
I'm quite sure there are modelers out there who have noticed something, but after 55 years and too many boats to count I never worry about it. I'm far more concerned with deteriorating eyesight, co-ordination, and glueing myself to the blasted model........Again.
Me too, like Ashley I've been making my own rudders since I was a youngster. It also allows you to use a shape that will suit the twin prop one rudder set up.
I forgot to ask what size props you were expecting to use, it might make a difference to what I posted earlier. Ashleys post reminded me of something, I presume you know about having the props turning in opposite directions, it helps keep the boat going straight, just buy / make a left and right hand prop.
There are advantages to each way of doing the installation. A single motor is easier and cheaper, but if the real thing has 2 shafts, you'll probably regret doing it that way later.
Each person has their own way of doing things, my way would be to install 2 shafts, 2 motors ( 385 motors should be perfect) As the original has 1 rudder, stick with that and use a mixer to the speed controllers. That will give you excellent maneuverability. You could also consider the excellent combined ESC and mixer that Action electronics make.
Forgot to say that the 385 motors can be run on 6 to 15 volts, for this model a 7.2 volt NiMH battery will be more than enough, you'll spend most of the time throttled back.
Don't mix up the 385 motors with the 380 ones, they look the same but are completely different.
|Thread: New old new modeller needs help|
OK Andrew, September the 8th should suit you, same times and location. We're also organising our night sailing and picnic in September, but no date for a while. Some of our club are in hospital and we're waiting for news before setting a date.
Hi Andrew, you will be very welcome. Our next sailing session is 14 of July starting at around 10.30. The heat at the moment means most of us have had enough by midday. We sail at the top of the lake on the right hand side ( looking down the lake).
Yes, I'm aware of that gearbox, but I cant imagine that it would cope with the power needed to make a sea commander hull go properly. I think it's aimed at ship models, especially with a 3 to one ratio. Then there's the problem of getting the centres to align properly with the already installed shafts. Also it would shriek like a banshee with a high revving motor. I've got the tee-shirt on that one, another failed experiment.
Edited By Charles Oates on 20/06/2019 12:31:23
I have to a agree that a gearbox whilst possible is very impractical. It would be noisy, difficult to find, and expensive.
Your comments about enough water coming up the shafts makes me very suspicious about their quality, even ungreased shafts shouldn't let that much water in.
You will find proponents on here for different motors/ batteries/ESC,s. Each of us has our favourites, judge for yourself which will give the best performance and run time.
If you decide to remove the old tubes, let us know, again there are different approaches. I took one out of an old model about 9 months ago, it was held into the keel with araldite. It took me about 5 mins to get out with no damage to the model except for the hole it left.
Hi Andrew, there must be more posts on here about 540 motors than any other type. Strictly speaking, the 540 is just the physical size, there are many, probably over 100 permutations of motor in this can size. For reference, most model boaters would use a 540 from a company called MFA, or an electrically identical motor from another trusted supplier.
Now for my personal view, 2 motors in one hull won't make it go much faster than 1 motor, but they will use twice as much power ( amps) there are other benefits, like acceleration and it looks better too. If you wish to go ahead with two, rather than convert the hull to 1 drive ( not difficult) be prepared to double the cost of batteries and speed controller etc. I would closely examine the condition of the shafts and bearings before doing anything. If they are anything but perfect, ditch them because the problems will come back to bite you later, probably after you've finished repainting.
I also still suggest you keep reading and asking about brushless motors, they really are very much better than ordinary ones for a quick boat and don't have to cost much either. My single brushless in a 40 inch asrl cost about 18 quid and the ESC around 25. I run for 30 mins plus on 3300 NiMH pack at at mixed speeds, including well over scale speed for the fun.
Ask away with whatever confuses you, there are some people much better than me to help with any electrical confusion you have.
Hi Andrew, welcome back to boating. The technical stuff may have moved on but all the underlying principals are just the same.
I recommend you have a look at some of the feature articles on this site to help refresh you on where technology is now. Look for the features tab, it opens some categories, then look in hints tips and technical. I recommend reading Dave's article on electrics, and the article on brushless motors.
For that hull I would certainly choose a modern brush less motor with either NiMH or lipo batteries.
When you get around to asking about specific motors etc, listen to advice given about installations in models similar to yours, there is a lot of very high speed info which is interesting but not always relevent to quick scale models.
One personal observation, not many people quote the weight of their models when recommending an installation, I find that it can make a huge difference in the best choice.
|Thread: SS Torrey Canyon|
|Thread: Crane on ferry|
Thanks chaps, Colin, that last picture is a big help. Paul, thanks for the info, I googled 20 ton deck crane after reading your post and got some decent images of how these things are put together. I'm not an exact scale builder so armed with these pictures I can enjoy myself making something fit for the job. I'm going to start from the image below, and work from there.
|Thread: Images uploading upside down|
I'm assuming you've used a 'phone camera for the photos. Some phones have a correct orientation for taking pictures, and they can get a bit weird if that isn't adhered to.
You can correct this with whatever your favourite photo software is.
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