Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Windows 10|
Hi Bob, it's just the same as other windows systems, click the minus button in the top right hand corner, next to the box and x symbol.
|Thread: Tiny Type|
If you use the digital subscription, you can have whatever size you like. No need to abandon the magazine yet.
|Thread: twin motors, esc wiring|
If these are the standard 540/1 motors you are dangerously near the limit of the speed controller with 2 of them. I would fit a fuse between motor and ESC in case 1 or both the motors stalls through picking up weed or plastic in the pond. It could save your ESC.
I would recommend using 2 controllers , its safer that way.
Sounds like a bad idea to me.
The fans would look very odd on the back.
The rudders would be relatively infective with no prop wash over them
They won't be efficient compared with a normal drive, so less speed per amp used.
Can you reverse them? If not you'll have less control of a big heavy model. If they do reverse you'll need a huge breaking distance.
On the plus side, it would be a fun experiment, and many of us would like to see the results.
|Thread: twin motors, esc wiring|
I'm confused, the MFA 380 motors are rated at 7.2 volt maximum. Why aren't they burning out on 11 volts plus?
Or have I misunderstood something.
|Thread: HMS Aveley|
Fantastic model Paul, I'm quite envious of your skill level, but I will continue to blame arthritic hands for my falling short when I build my models😉.
I'm very interested in the whole 3 d printing thing, I've resisted getting into that area, although I'm fine with computers. I've taken the attitude of ' it's not normal modeling', but seeing the results I might be coming around to it.
Maybe an article sometime from you on the subject would help some of us.
|Thread: Nicad replacement|
Any NiMH battery that will physically fit the space and is the same 7.2 voltage. It will have a larger capacity ( mah) that will just give you a longer duration. If you're unsure ring or email component shop and tell them the size of the old battery, they will help you. Google component-shop.co.uk. they will need to know the type of connector / plug fitted to your old battery, so maybe be prepared with a photo of the old one. You can trust them to be fair and helpful.
I nearly forgot to say, please be careful disposing of the old battery, cadmium is nasty and shouldn't be put in the normal bins. Take it to a recycling centre.
Edited By Charles Oates on 13/11/2019 23:07:13
|Thread: R/C Tri-ang British Adventurer|
You've grown up in the era of radio affected models, so I'm sure you'll know the downfalls of old gear.
The transmitter was the radiomaster, here is a picture that should help.
Being an old school pulse system of the mark / space type, the four buttons are just left , right and motor control. The round knob is for control adjustment, the arial is sectional an should just slot together. and I think the rest is obvious.
Hi Robert, a while ago I wrote a piece for Model Boats about putting modern radio in one of these, with reference to the Tri-ang original. As far as I can remember without digging out my notes, the transmitter used 125 volts ( 2x 67.5) and 1.5 volt filament battery. The boat has 3 x 1.5 volt and a 22.5 volt hearing aid battery.
I'm hoping you just need the info for historical reasons, because there is no way an amateur should power that set up now. Some of the components are probably time damaged and with that voltage in a pond environment it would be unsafe and in my view foolish. There's also a problem with the kind of signal transmitted, the output was a called a super regenerative system, and put simply it covered all the 27 meg band with a signal swamping everything else that uses the band.
Sorry if I've preached a bit, maybe you grew up with equipment from those days and know the problems and dangers, I'm being ' better safe than sorry'
|Thread: Cigarette articles|
It might be worth contacting the offshore model racing association. They have a great website.
|Thread: Vic Smeed's Model Boat Designs|
Thanks Tony, I'll make a start this winter. It will be something I can do between laying rather a lot of planks on my current build.
Thanks for reviving a great memory, I built a Sparkler way back in the day. It had a D.C Sabre, and homemade simpletone / Supertone radio. I won a steering regatta with it, a joy to sail.
You've got me hankering after making another, it's an ideal candidate for a small cheap brushless set up. Fun boating at its best.
|Thread: Problem setting up receiver on RC boat|
Hi there, what type of speed controller are you using?
|Thread: exhibition in Spain|
Thanks for visiting Andrew, yes I'll pass that on for you. I hope you'll be able to pop down again sometime.
The night sailing and picnic has been pushed back to October, I should get the date on Sunday, but that's not much help to you I'm afraid.
We will be having our monthly sailing on Sunday morning ( 8 Sept) at the top of the lake in the Park of Nations from about 10.30 until 12 ish. You welcome to come along and say hello.
|Thread: Motor /Controller /Prop upgrade|
The system can behave oddly at times, I don't know if that's connected with the method used to re size pictures, I can't think why it should be, but this is quite old software I'm told.
Anyway, why not throw caution to the wind, put them in as best you can and see what happens when you post them.
Hi dave, the above is a link to a section on the forum homepage about how to post pictures.
Ask if you have any problems with it.
|Thread: Balsa sealing.|
Back in the 1950s some modelers would soak balsa with thinned varnish to stabilise it, but it added no strength and took ages to get a decent finish. You can still do things that way, and it will work, but why bother. This is another of those times to be glad of modern materials.
|Thread: Another Rudder/Prop question.|
I was forgetting about the finer pitch on 40 mm plastic props, so they're OK too. Brass ones tend to be coarser so 35 mm would still be my choice.
I like a scale looking rudder on a scale model, that's why I skin them, it only takes a few mins, on other models I don't bother either.
Really there aren't many wrongs or rights, it's a fun hobby, we just do what works for us.
Hi Stephen, a few things there. Firstly the props, start with 35 mm 3 blade, they're usually the best match for 385 motors. You can buy a few different size plastic ones to experiment with if you want to, they're cheap and effective.
Re the speed controller, why not start out with one, if the turning circle isn't what you want then you can spend more one a twin ESC and mixer.
Lastly the rudder, you don't say what you difficulty is, but hear is my and many other peoples way of doing them.
Find some rod and tube to make the assembly, slot one end of the rod about 5 mm to take a piece of brass sheet.
The brass sheet can be any old off cut, say about 1 x 2 cm, solder it into the slot.
Next cut 2 pieces of plasticard in the shape of the finished rudder, cut a tiny slot where the post will be.
Put the plastic in very hot water to soften them, then clamp them around the metal bits until they harden.
When dry use epoxy to join them and clamp again. You can do some final shaping with sandpaper when its all set.
It takes me about an hour to make a rudder, costs peanuts and is easy to change the design if I want to.
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