Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Need Advice|
That seems to happen too often doesn't it Dave? Someone asks a question then disappears. Blooming rude in my opinion, not even a thanks for trying to help.
Of course there may be a good reason, illness etc, but not every time this happens surely.
Choosing a first model can be tricky, a model not too big, but attractive and simple to build has often been a good start. Does anything on this web page appeal?
I'm not sure that link has copied properly, if not Google slec uk and go to vintage model boat kits page 2
If you really want to start with a ship, have a look at the web page for Cornwall model boats, then go through the ship kits, just to narrow down what you're looking for. Don't buy anything until you've asked on here about suitability for a beginner, many are anything but that.
|Thread: "EeZeBilt 50+" Sea Princess build|
Me too Ray, I haven't built a cabin cruiser for years, and the Sea Queen always stood out. I remember years ago seeing an Australian built one in the magazine that had used lots of great veneers, a real thing of beauty.
Dodgey Geezer is certainly an unsung hero, he and Tony Hadley who compiled most, possibly all of Vic Smeeds boat plans have done so much to preserve early boat modeling. D.Gs Taycol site is the go to place for anyone wanting to use these great early motors with today's radio gear.
I suspect a great many models have been made from D Gs plans that we never hear about on this site. Anyone who wants to make simple good looking models, and beginners wanting to learn basic modeling skills need look no further. They also put the fun element into model making.
Wouldn't it be great if there was a link to his site on our home page?
Edited By Charles Oates on 04/04/2020 12:21:41
|Thread: My Time Media. Model Boats Magazine.|
I don't see a problem with the announcement, after all, it's almost the same text as the editorial in May's model boat magazine.
I suspect the problem is any useless speculation, what if's, doom mongering etc in a very unpredictable time.
We'll just have to wait and see. The magazine exists to make money for the owners, so be can be sure that if they can do so again, they will.
|Thread: "EeZeBilt 50+" Sea Princess build|
Hi David, the Sea Princess is a plan and model made to very closely resemble the old Aerokits Sea Queen, and it's smaller cousin the sea commander. This is a great model still in production marketed by Jotika.
If you Google model sea queen you'll see some nice models and a link to the Jotika web site.
A search on this forum will produce some interesting results, including a thread with a photograph of the plan.
Any help you need with the restoration can be had on here, I'm willing to bet that an awful lot of us have made that model over the years.
My way of starting a job like this is to sit down with a pen and paper, and list out the tasks, then you can put them in some sort of order.
You'll almost certainly have questions about powering the model, so I recommend you begin by reading Dave's article on model electrics.
Clicking on the features tab on this web site will also give you several interesting articles worth a read to help you.
I hope that gets you started, keep the forum informed, we like to hear about classic models coming back to life.
|Thread: Mtronik Viper 20 - No reverse|
Unplug everything, then swap over the connections into the receiver for the ESC, and the servo. The stick for the throttle and the servo are now exchanged. Plug it all back in and repeat the set up.
This will test whether it's a channel / stick centering problem or something else. Come back to us on here after you've tried it.
|Thread: Digimac VI transmitter|
Yes, 99.9% certain it was AM
I had a MacGregor back in 19???. I do remember that it worked with a mates Futaba equipped model perfectly.
I suspect you'll have no problem finding a 6 channel receiver, probably plenty of people still have one lying around in the workshop.
|Thread: Reinforcing layer on unsound hull|
Thanks for posting the pictures Paul, now I can see the problem, I agree with Ashley, do it properly from the inside. I know you don't want to take the deck off, it seems like a massive job, but compared with repeated failed attempts to do it with filler etc, it will be worth it. It will also allow you to get the paint right as well and there's a lot less risk of damaging the superstructure and fittings while you work on the hull.
PS, it will also give you chance to put in some bulkheads that will lessen the flexing and strain on the hull sides.
Edited By Charles Oates on 18/03/2020 13:46:22
A sort of armored belt, why not. Cut whatever size, offer it up to the hull, mark around it. Then rub down the area it will bond to and epoxy it on. There's only a bit of time and cash to lose and everything to gain.
I'm not sure my idea of epoxy for plastic to fibreglass is the best way, hopefully others will have some ideas.
Hi Paul, what a horrible but interesting problem. If I can add my twopenny worth, I think your only option is to strip the model down. The amount of handling the ship will get in rubbing down the hull, repairing, sanding and painting is likely to cause a lot of damage otherwise. Any repairs to the outside only are likely to be unsightly, and may not last.
Real strength will only come from having a sound structure and reinforcement on the inside. That's a lot of work, but not difficult, it's more a matter of biting the bullet and getting on with it. You might also find that when you can properly see what's been done to the hull you would be better off with a new hull from Deans, as has been said.
Whatever you decide, why not create a picture album on here and share some photos of the work, we would all be interested.
|Thread: Help needed.|
Hi ken, you'll probably get slightly different answers to this, just because preferences and opinions vary. Here's mine.
Scale, I'm not sure but around 1/20 I think
Motors, I had a quick look at the instructions on Billings site, and was surprised to see that they show mabuchi 380 motors. Those would not be my choice for a 35 inch model. I would use 540 LN motors, the LN bit is important as these are quite different to standard ones. Low current high torque.
Speed controller, I like both component shop and Viper speed controllers. I've never had a problem with either, as long as you use them properly they just work. The 15 amp version will just do, but I recommend a safety margin and get a 25 amp type.
Battery, For normal, is not high performance models like this I suggest a NiMH pack from component shop or other trusted supplier.
You'll need matching couplings and props.
Consider putting in line fuses in the motor wires. I would.
Hope that helps a bit.
|Thread: Help tracking down information|
Hi Aidan and welcome. If you can't find a copy from people on here, try emailing Graupner, they have had many changes over the years, but you might be lucky. Second idea, there are some great modelers in Germany and this was a popular model there, try asking on one of the German forums, I'm sure there will be some kind person who'll help. If, like me your German language skill is bad or non existent, just use Google translate. Modelers always like to help each other, wherever they live.
|Thread: Help finding the right brushless motor|
If you put aerokits 46. Into the search box, you'll find a post from a couple of years ago where Harry Smith put a brushless into the same model. He mentions his choice of motors and props and they seem spot on to me. He posted
The brushless motors I have in stock are a D3548/4-1100kv 910 watts or the 3648-1450kv 1600 watts.
The post is worth a read.
|Thread: BILLINGS BOATS FLEVO MS PROGRESS 5|
Hi again Andy, that's the kit I remember. It was reviewed and built in the old Model boat magazine, and I think I still have some scans of the build somewhere. If these are any use let me know and I'll forward them to you.
Hi Andy, I don't recognise your model from the recent Billing kits but I do remember a progress kit from a long time ago, is it an old kit? I ask this because the wood for planking may be old and prone to splintering.
If you put planking in this sites search box you'll get some help by reading the various replies. You will also find that sometimes opinions vary as to the best sequence, here is mine for this type of hull.
Soak or steam planks to make them pliable 2 at a time, one for each side of the hull.
Ensure the keel stays straight and true as you apply the planks or you'll get a twisted hull.
Put first rows of planks on, starting at deck level so you'll have a neat top to the hull.
Then put planks along the keel, working up the hull row by row.
You'll now have an odd shaped gap to plank between the rows, shape planks as you go, you'll also have odd size planks, these are called stealers. Work steadily and methodically, it's a lot easier than it sounds.
That should get you started, ask again with any problems.
|Thread: Three motors, three ESCs, on one channel using one battery|
Hi QQ, I've seen threads before where It helps so much if all the information is there. I'd suggest you tell us what the model is, what the motors are, the prop sizes, the make and model of the ESCs and the battery type and capacity you're using. All these things will bear on you getting the best answers to your installation.
|Thread: Merry Christmas!|
Merry Christmas everyone, may your couplings never come loose!
|Thread: Brushless Motor Drivelines and Couplings|
Hi Colin, I had a similar problem with my first brushless model, a lightweight vosper fire float. I partially cured the problem with a home made coupling using Hugo ends and silicon tubing between them. On my second brushless model, a RTTL , I used a 5 mm shaft instead of the 4mm used previously with a home made centre bearing, and the same home made coupling. This was pretty good from the start, but after I balanced the propeller it runs as sweet as silk. The motors in both are conventionally mounted except for a thin piece of neoprene between the mounting plate and the plywood base, something I've been doing for a very long time.
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