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Member postings for Charles Oates

Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Leander class frigate
15/03/2008 08:05:00

 no problem Andy, I have a day off tomorrow so I can do a copy then. I'll let you know when it's sent.

 Chas

14/03/2008 08:18:00

Hi Andy,

               The program was by Bob Symes, He was quite a modeler. He introduced the model ship which was designed and built for the program by Vic Smeed. It was intended as an introduction to model making and is very easy to make. The program shows the main stages in the build.  I have a copy of the program on a dvd which I copied from an old tape recorded at the time. If you want it I can run off a copy of the disk and post it to you.

 Chas

Thread: Prop tube grease
04/03/2008 09:53:00

I've been using silicoln grease for years, and it works very well, no water up the shaft. I'm told it's more eco friendly too. You can buy a small tub from a plumbers merchant and it will last for many years, I've had mine for 15 years plus and still some left.

chas

Thread: Cost nothing boats?
18/01/2008 10:18:00

 HI Len,

         Sorry for the duf link, I left my brain somewhere. The plan is found by  clicking the xlist link, plans catagories, model boats, semi scale.

 That should do it.  I'm off to find my brain now, I must have left it in the shed.

 Chas

Thread: 1940's Customs Launch
18/01/2008 09:57:00

Hi David,

            I've uploaded a picture of Guardsman into my pictures, just click on photo by my name etc.  The model is not mine, I found it on the web some time ago, and kept it to help me build mine. The model is a credit to it's builder. I've not found much info about Guardsman, or about any of the customs cutters, but they did have some nice boats.

     I think Guardsman was quite a bit earlier than 1940, it looks reminisant of the steam tugs of around 1900.  There was an earlier and equaly pretty boat called Dolphin, I saw drawings for this in an old Model Boats mag from the 1960s, when I was a lad, I'm glad I kept all my old magazines.

 R Carpenter used to have a wonderful series of historic craft drawings, great for anyone looking for a prototype. Perhaps I should ask Vini if these can be re printed.

 Chas

17/01/2008 11:33:00

Hi David,

             I think the plan you are looking for may be Guardsman, a pretty customs launch given free in Model Boats in the 80s. The link below will take you to a page with a picture of a model of this called Lady Sarah.

   I've recently pulled out my plan of this and have just started building it myself, It's got lots of character. The plan is I think still available from model boats plans.

 If this is the model let me know.

 Chas

http://www.north-cheshire-marine.org.uk/mmbc.htm

Thread: Cost nothing boats?
15/01/2008 12:46:00

This is a great idea, anything that gets us all actualy making something different is good, it stretches (ha ha) the brain cells too.

   Rubber power was popular many years ago, I found this model still in the x list plans of models from ancient model maker and model boats magazines.

[b]MM317 Queen Mary[/b] 22.5in oal. Employs rubber drive. Normal cruise 200 yards in 3.5 mins. Simple construction. ** Price £9.00 <!--mstheme--><!--msnavigation-->

<!--msnavigation--><!--msnavigation-->http://www.xlistplans.demon.co.uk/ <!--mstheme-->

     If we were to use the elastic from the wifes nicker drawers,  might we get some interesting model names? any suggestions?

  The Great egg race and the spin off programs were great were'nt they, remember the swiming machines? It's such a pity nothing like this is on now. Heinz Wolf was exactly what a boffin should be like.

 Chas

Thread: Twin Prop question?
15/01/2008 12:27:00

The effects of twin props are more obvious on a short beamy boat than on a long hull. i.e a pilot boat and a destroyer. Twin props are more scale, and appropriate to some boats, especialy if the prototype is  very manouverable. If you want your model to turn on a sixpence, useing two props, motors,and speed controls will enable you to have one motor ahead and one astern, and the model will spin round. Obviously this only looks right on certain protptypes, such as some lifeboats.

To do this properly one favoured contol method is to use two cannels and a mixer for the motors, so costs will rise quite a lot. There are some other ways of doing it but they all add to the cost.

   If your model is of a tug that had twin screws, using a twin arangement on the model wil give more 'grab' on the water, usefull if you are going to tow.

 Me? I usualy go for one prop so much easyer, and I'm a Yorkshireman with a Scottish mum so costs matter. My only exceptions have been a pilot boat and model of Sri Perlis a Malaysian patrol craft. Neither looked right with one prop.

 I hope this helps

chas

Thread: taycol motor
02/01/2008 16:02:00

Hi David,

             The taycol motors were thought ok for a huntsman 30 years ago, but are now just lovely collectors items. As Paul says, reversing and speed controling wound field motors is tricky with todays esc,s and would need a wealth of experience. Also it wouldn't normaly go very quickly, the only exceptions I know of were some experiments done long ago.  Use a modern motor and esc, advice is best coming from your local club, or by chatting to a supplier such as Westbourne models, model motors direct, or a GOOD local model shop. ( some shops know cars and planes better than boats)

  Happy new year, let us all know how you get on.

 Charlie.

Thread: What do I do now?
26/12/2007 13:12:00

Have a look at the plans from this website, plenty to choose from. Vic Smeed plans are very well regarded.

 Chas

Thread: One metre yachts, Spain
25/10/2007 10:57:00

Hi Ray,

     he will probably find lots of help at the Torrevieja or Santa Pola model boat clubs. Both within easy distance of the Mar Menor. Details are in the article below.

http://www.costablancaleader.com/news/article.php?article_id=12944&article_section_id=1

 The club seems to have made a start, this article was published last week.

http://www.costablancaleader.com/general/article.php?article_id=13172

 Chas

Thread: What do I do now?
21/10/2007 09:49:00

Hi John,

            when you plate with plasticard, what glue do you use to bond it to the balsa / resin? I've tried this in the past and had trouble with the card buckleing, and coming unstuck.  The compound curves were a pig too. I was useing superglue, but i'm glad no-one had a camera when I had the boat hanging from my finger!

Chas

Thread: Taycol Motors
10/09/2007 09:24:00

Malcolms right about the interferance, I tried all manor of the usual supression methods, and ended up making a metal mesh cage for the motor, Mr Faraday to the rescue. Was it worth it? At the time yes, I hate to be beaten by a motor, especialy in a vintage boat, but I now use a modern motor.

 Charlie

03/09/2007 11:32:00

It's not easy to use an esc with a wound field motor to get forward and reverse, though you may be able to use one for speed control only. This is because to reverse a motor such as the taycol you have to change the polarity of just one of the fields, hence the two +ve terminals. You could do it by useing a third channel to operate a change over relay or switcher. This must go between the speed control and the motor, not before the speed control or you may get an expensive phut. It's also worth remembering that these motors have a high surge current when starting, something you need to bear in mind when selecting a unit. For expert advice why not contact the manufacturers direct. Action electronics and electronise are respected makers.

Chas

Thread: Silent Power!
23/08/2007 08:48:00

Malcolm is dead right about the how to pages, well worth a look, and I bet he's right about the shaft, a short time running with miss-alignment will spoil it. As to hot glue for the motor bed, I'm not keen, if the motor stars to get warm it can move quite easily. Is the shaft properly suported? a short length without suport can 'whip' that would give you a lot of noise.

22/08/2007 10:15:00

You could try bedding the motor in silicon sealant, that stuff you put around the bath edge. It works for me  and stops the sound conducting to the hull. The hull act as a kind of resonator for motor noise. Also you need to align motor and shaft as accuratly as possible to keep noise and power loss down, that makes the bearings last a lot longer too. Bedding into silicon helps here too.

 Gearboxes are fine but usualy very noisy, belt drives are better, but still not as quiet as a direct drive.

Thread: DigiFleet Mixer
11/08/2007 09:11:00
Hi Stuart, I doubt a ready made lead is available, however you could give component shop a ring or email, they are the most likely people I know of who might make something up for you. Always assuming that they are electronicly compatable.
Charles




address.

www.component-shop.co.uk

Ordering questions: orders@component-shop.co.uk

Technical Support: technical@component-shop.co.uk


Thread: Electrics?
31/07/2007 22:08:00
Hi again john, the Bangarth is a great boat, lots of presence on the water. As to what to run it with, everyone you ask could have a different answer and they could all be right, I can only say what I would try.
For swinging a large prop some use a geared or belt drive, it's kind on the motor and you might get more torque at the prop. A direct drive will be quieter, which is important if you later buy a sound module to mimic the sound of the original engines, these are great as long as it isn't in a duet with the drive motor, gear whine sorta spoils the effect. If you go for a direct drive get a good low speed high torque motor with a matching speed control. I would use a sun 550 and a condor 20/2 controler. If you are interested in these look at the website http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ for action products, and VERY importantly give them a ring before ordering and check what I've been saying is correct, I'm only human. Action are very highly regarded with great customer service. No I have no conection with them, it's just what other modelers say.
The model will carry loads of balast so you can put a good size battery in there, but make sure whatever you buy will go through the hatch.
I hope that helps a bit, happy modelling, let us know how you get on.

Charlie.
19/07/2007 16:02:00
Hi John,frustrating isn't it, you would expect the gear bought like that to be fine, now to the cure. you have 3 courses open to you. Firstly why not join a club if there is one local to you, lots of people who have been through this sort of thing, and are always ready to help. What area are you in?
Secondly you could try to work this through. The prop is quite large for a direct drive, this puts a large load on the motor, and in response the motor will suck more amps from the battery, that would blow the fuse.
what you need to do is connect an ameater into the circuit to see how much current is being taken, you will need one that goes to 10 - 15 amps. This MUST be conected directly between the battery and the motor, take out the speed control, you do not want to fry that. Test the current drawn while the boat is in the test tank, (bath) so you can see the results under load.As your speed control is rated to a maximum of 10 amps, you will need to change either the motor or prop to arive at a load of not more than 7 amps, leaving 3 amps a a safty margin, because when a motor first starts there will be a surge of current.
Lastly, you could just go to a good model shop, tell them what you have and ask for a suitable motor. Ringing Westbourne models, or model motors direct will produce the same kind of help, both are excellent.
Let me know how you get on.
Charlie.
19/07/2007 09:15:00
Need more details John. What motor, prop,speed control, and fuse rating are you useing.
Fuses usualy blow because you are taking more current ( amps ) than the fuse is rated for, however you can't just use a larger fuse as it's there to protect the rest of your gear.
When the fuse blew was the prop fouled with weed etc?
Is the driveline,( propshaft and coupling ) running freely.
Chas
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