Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Question for anyone who's built Vic Smeeds Guardsman|
Our long lockdown has made me very busy in the workshop. I've re built and re finished many older models. Inevitably, when I had finished all that I wanted to start a new build. Out came the old plan for Vic's Guardsman, a build I've been putting of for 40 years. I scaled it up to 29 inches instead of 22.5. I use a very scientific method to choose a scale, it has to fit on a vacant shelf.
Anyway, my question. Vic's plan shows the stern tube and motor at quite a steep angle, and I can't see any reason for that. There is plenty of room to set the motor lower in the hull, plus I'm going to use a geared 385 I have spare, with a low set output shaft so I can put the tube and shaft nearly horizontal. I presume the original would have been like that.
Am I missing something? Did Vic have a good reason for installing the motor as he did, or was it just one of his quirks?
|Thread: My Time Media. Model Boats Magazine.|
Thank goodness for this excellent news, it's what we've all been waiting for. I also want to wish Lindsey all the best as the new editor. Old modelers like me that have been reading the magazine since it was Model Maker will remember that some of the editors and assistant editors came from a variety of backgrounds, and that never affected the quality or variety of the magazine.
The content is partially up to anyone who wants to make a contribution, so in some ways it's up to us to seek a little advice then tap a few keys.
|Thread: Wiring a boat for beginner|
Hi Rob, I notice this is your first post, and I'm guessing you're new to installing radio gear. It's possible that the answer you need has got a bit confused in this 7 year old post so feel free to ask for any help or clarification you need. It's all quite simple when you get used to it. I also have a Hobbyking x car ESC among others, the wiring is identical to Dave's diagram.
|Thread: What boat is this?|
Hi Tim, if you have a look at the plan in Rodgers album, it sets out the cables etc for the mast. The pictures of the build in the old magazine shows some detail, rather blury though when you enlarge it. It appears that shackles were used which makes sense.
|Thread: Spektrum radio|
This is one of those questions where if you ask 10 people, you can get 10 different but valid answers. I've been unlucky with Spectrum, and would never have another, others love them. The cheap Turnigy sets and clones have a remarkable variety, but the simple and cheap set has never failed me. For better gear, I'm a Futaba fan.
Edited By Charles Oates on 21/06/2020 10:58:16
|Thread: Diesel fuel|
I'm going back around 45 to 50 years and my memory might be suspect. But my one and only taps was not at all fussy about fuel, an easy starter and a delight to run. It was a well worn second hand engine as well. An old 7 cc job in a modified Catchalot, went like stink, happy days.
55 years ago I used to make my own fuel, the simple instructions were printed in a popular modeling book of the time, and the main ingredient could be bought at the local chemist.
That might sound like an endorsement to go ahead and do the same, it isn't. Frankly its a miracle I'm still here, the things that could have gone wrong, and nearly did would have finished me. I was behaving exactly as kids of that time did, it was a time when we made our own fireworks too, but to get through it you needed to be lucky, which I was. My motors never performed as well with the home made stuff as with the commercial fuel anyway.
There's another reason not to do it, chemistry had advanced, and I think I'm right in saying that the commercial fuel now contains something particularly hazardous.
It is perhaps one of those subjects where if you are sufficiently qualified and knowledgeable to do it, you wouldn't need to ask the question.
|Thread: Model motor listing|
Whilst looking online for something slightly different, I stumbled across this list of model motors. The information is basic, but still can be useful. I don't know how many are listed, but it must be over a thousand. List generated in 2017.
|Thread: Tx modify from dry cell to rechargeable battery pack|
Thanks for that helpful reply John. That was my suspicion based on problems with rechargeables with a different Futuba transmitter. I hate the idea of risking a model because of a dodgy power supply.
Hi Ian, I must have my stupid head on today. Can you explain that choice to me?
Decent AA cells = at least a year of running
NiMH cells, possibly needs an extra battery and regular topping up if they are the self discharging type. Or normal number of cells and being on the low voltage brink.
I'm not criticising, just interested in your reasons
|Thread: Fairmile D - help needed|
Hi David, I've read this thread with interest and kept quiet, as I couldn't offer any better advice than has been offered. If you are perceiving a bit of frustration, it's because it might seem that you are misunderstanding offers of help.
I'll try and clarify, in 2 parts.
1. A model with 4 motors isn't 4 times faster than the same model with 1 motor, my best estimate is that it will be around 30% faster. However, it will draw four times the power ( amps) from the batteries through the speed controller (s)
2 you can't escape from the amount of power needed to make this model go in a satisfactory manner, and that means having the right propellers, which then dictate the power drawn for whatever voltage you use. The advice offered you from other modelers is often given as a result of mistakes we made years ago and intended to save you money, frustration and damaged equipment. With that in mind you will understand if the need to steer you a better way is emphasised.
Lastly, my 2 pennyworth, the agm batteries, sealed lead acid I think? Absolutely the last type of battery I would use or recommend for your boat. They are not suitable for prolonged heavy current, the voltage will fall rapidly. 12 ah rating is only true with a mild load, if you try to take say 25 amps from them, they will fail very quickly. This isn't just an opinion, it's a long established bit of advice that might well have appeared on this forum 50 to 100 times.
Sorry if you don't like what I've said, it's meant to help not to upset you.
|Thread: sp610 getting warm/hot even|
No way would I use a forward only ESC in a boat. You can't brake or manoeuvre properly.
May I suggest you proceed as has been recommended, especially if money is tight, finding out if the motor or ESC or installation is at fault will reduce the need to spend extra money, then replace or repair as necessary. Trying to second guess yourself can lead to even more money being spent, I.e. changing the motor type will probably lead to needing a new coupling, and possibly the propeller as well. Be methodical, it works and saves time and money.
|Thread: Plans for a small, plank on frame jolly boat.|
If you are determined to make one yourself, there's an old tried and tested method not much used these days. You would use the casting as a plug, waxed first then overlay thin strips of gummed paper strip. After a thick enough moulding is made, finish it with shellac / varnish to stiffen it and remove from the plug.
I've done this years ago, it's fiddly and laborious, and takes a lot of effort with the last internal and external strips to simulate planks, but it is realistic and surprisingly strong.
|Thread: dedicated toolbox|
Ashley's right, so often you won't have just what you need, but there are some items I'd never be without.
A multimeter, a cheapo one will do. So often someone says my boat won't go, or it cuts out or the radios erratic. 99 times out of a hundred it's a duff or not charged battery.
Those little allen keys that fit huco and similar couplings, things become loose.( use threadlock to avoid this)
Superglue for fixing the mast, rigging etc you caught getting the model out of the car.
Oil for a quick fix of a dry motor, shaft etc.
Spare batteries...... See above.
Sware box, you'll make a fortune out of all the expletives when something unexpected goes wrong.
A magnet to find what you dropped at the pondside, and ancient eyesight can't find it.
Your sub's for the club, because you kept forgetting at the meetings😡
Spare boat to retrieve those that break down. Get someone else to take a spare too, to retrieve your broken rescue boat....... Don't laugh, I've seen it happen.
To avoid most of the above, maintain charge your batteries regularly, and test the model properly the night before, then remember to switch off. I've made that mistake too.
|Thread: aeronaut Pilot boat|
Just swap the wires from the esc to one of the motors over. One motor will then spin clockwise, and the other anticlockwise.
|Thread: Ideal prop angle through the hull|
Hi Joe, part of my learning curve with brush less motors included a high kV motor, just because it was a bargain.. Don't go there, I had a ridiculous amount of revs, the props kept cavitating, or whatever the correct term is, and the model was useless in the water. 12 to 1400 kV is about right based on my models. If you install them now, you'll just end up taking them out again with all the problems that entails.
If you want water coming from the exhausts, just fit a scoop and restrictor, they would look a bit silly with the amount of flow from a water cooled motor.
As to the prop angle, your choice, but leave room for playing with a larger prop so you can experiment. I recommend you settle on prop clearance after a rethink of the motor, because that might affect the prop size.
Never fit a coupling that might just do, follow the advice on here and get a butch one, the shock load on a drivetrain can be huge.
People on here mostly offer advice based on mistakes we've all made to try and help you avoid the same ones, 'nuff said.
|Thread: Liteply delamination|
Hi Ian, to give you a straight answer to your question. In my experience, no, de laminating is defiantly not normal, I'm guessing it could only be due to poor storage somewhere in the supply chain, or poor manufacture.
Sometimes with any wood, bad batches can occur, so if your model shop is a decent one, they will want to know about this so they can address the problem before their reputation suffers. If they aren't interested, they wouldn't be a decent shop in my view, so just move to another.
Lite ply is very useful stuff, it's allowed me to make lightweight builds of a vosper, and a Thornycroft that wouldn't have performed as I wanted them to otherwise.
|Thread: Advice on ESC and RC Equipment|
To give you a comparison, I've a 1.14 meter long cruiser. It runs on 2x 385 motors, 1 speed controller and 7.2 volts. That's about 15 watts drawn from the battery. Flat out it's well over scale speed, I run on about 2/3 throttle, the reserve gets me out of trouble when I steer badly. Long thin warships don't need much power, and over powered ones can look ridiculous.
|Thread: Need Advice|
That seems to happen too often doesn't it Dave? Someone asks a question then disappears. Blooming rude in my opinion, not even a thanks for trying to help.
Of course there may be a good reason, illness etc, but not every time this happens surely.
Choosing a first model can be tricky, a model not too big, but attractive and simple to build has often been a good start. Does anything on this web page appeal?
I'm not sure that link has copied properly, if not Google slec uk and go to vintage model boat kits page 2
If you really want to start with a ship, have a look at the web page for Cornwall model boats, then go through the ship kits, just to narrow down what you're looking for. Don't buy anything until you've asked on here about suitability for a beginner, many are anything but that.
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