Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I don't have plans, but there's an excellent build log on the web.
|Thread: Converting small scale plastic model kits to RC|
There's an article on this website about making your own miniature propellers. It's easy and they can perform better than some commercial ones.
Edited By Colin Bishop on 02/07/2022 08:23:57
|Thread: Guardsman build (but not as you know Jim)|
Returning to the subject of the wheelhouse, I think that when Vic drew the plans, he simplified the shape. This is just a personal opinion, but when I built my Guardsman, I had a long look at the picture of the Enterprise, enlarging the wheelhouse, and decided It wasn't rectangular, as on the plan. To me it seems to be a hexagon, with 2 angled panels between the sides and the front, one of which is the door. Looking at the roofline seems to confirm this, and it would make more sense and be more practical.
Of course, I might be completely wrong, and have misunderstood the picture, but it's how I built mine.
|Thread: Beginner advice on using old RC plane kit on an RC boat|
Hi Ashley, you did mention the 540/1 which is a high reving much hungrier motor than the 540LN. In ye olden days, I used them in fast electric models. I blame the numbering system for motors, for a newcomer it must be a nightmare trying to tell motors apart. Thank goodness for the much easier system on brushless motors.
Hi again George, if you're going for a smaller model, a 385 motor would be better, not a 380 which looks similar, but is very different.
Matching motor to esc to battery isn't difficult once you have an idea how many amps the motor will draw. An re 385 from MFA will run on a huge range of voltage from 4.5 to 15 volts, but typically on 7.2 volts it will only draw an amp or two, depending on the propeller. Even stalled it will not draw a huge current, so an esc rated up to 10amps like the mtronics viper 10 will be fine. Battery capacity for lipos and NiMH batteries are easy too, if a motor draws 2amps and the battery has capacity of 4 amp hours (4ah....4000mah) the model could run for nearly 2hours. Things are different for high amp draws, and with lead acid batteries, but that's not relevent with your model.
Hope that helps a little.
Ps if you're interested, look for an article buried on the model boats magazine web site about models and electricity by the late great guy, Dave Milbourn.
I can't ever remember disagreeing with Ashley before, so this is a first. I did mean the 540LN. It only revs to 6000 on 12 volts, so around 4000 on 7.2 volts, with lots of torque, I use a couple myself. I also use that brushless in a 26inch police boat, on 7.2 volts it's very nippy, and planes beautifully, not a bit like a canal boat. I know it could be throttled down, but I would prefer a better match to the model.
The motor would probably draw around 1.5to 2 amps, so whilst the existing battery will work, it won't have a long duration and the weight isn't a problem in a canal boat which will need plenty of low down ballast.
Above is a link to the motor data sheet, if you copy it and paste into your browser it will take you there.
Hi George, your instincts about the motor etc are all correct. it's the esc that gives reverse or forward only as in a plane. The motor you have is a high reving brushless one, great in a plane but unsuitable for a narrow boat. You need a slow reving motor that'll turn a decent size prop. I'm guessing that your model is about 1.1 meters long, and possibly a 40 mm prop. If this were my model I'd use a 540 ln motor from MFA and an mtronics viper esc. Please note that the ln suffix is important, 540 motors vary a lot and most are not right for your boat. A 7.2 volt nicad battery or 2s lipo of you prefer of above 3000 mah will be fine.
I hope that helps a bit.
|Thread: Tramp Steamer - 1929|
That's coming on nicely Bob. I can't really offer any comments apart from admiring your work, and I can only do that a few times or it becomes meaningless. Comments and feedback will be more plentiful if you show or describe some methods or actual work that opens a discussion.
I'll continue to enjoy your thread, but I can't offer anything meaningful to say at the moment.
Hi again Bob, it's nice to see the progress. I've been building models a long time, but never miniatures. I can work out your summary of the process, but do you think a bit more detail would help newcomers to modelling?
I fully appreciate that someone could read up on the methods, but I have my doubts that a passing reader of your build would do that. I don't mean a blow by blow account, just a bit more explanation of assembling the hatches, or facing a bulkhead would probably be appreciated by some readers.
Anyway, whatever you decide, it's great to see the work.
Hi Bob, let me add my thanks for showing so much of your excellent work on the model. I'm really enjoying seeing the ship progress, it makes great reading. I hope you'll continue to show work done on your models, and how you do it.
|Thread: Wave Princess Restoration|
That's odd Richard, it works for me. I found the lesro about 2 mins 40 in, sailing beautifully. Congrats Harry, that's an excellent model.
|Thread: Painting interior of a nitro boat|
It's a blooming long time since I ran glow and diesel powered boats, but I suppose the old way will still be ok. All we did was paint as needed, then add a coat or two of fuel proofer from the model shop. Some guys took real pride in the interior's of their Catchalots, Snappers etc, that's showing my age!
|Thread: Rudder query|
Hi Stephen, I had a similar problem with a RTTL, but I hated the idea of adding extra weight, it just dulls the performance. My radio has rate switches so I set one to give reduced rudder throw for normal running, and I can switch it out for slow running/ docking etc. It's a pretty common way to set things up.
With an older build, I didn't have that transmitter so I just reduced the rudder throw a little so the turns were a bit gentler. Easy to do using a different hole on the servo or tiller arm.
|Thread: Static Model Boats Built from Paper/Card|
That's a wonderful little model. It's made me think about my love of building models and a shortage of storage space.
I think I'll be having a go at this when I've cleared my bench, can you recommend some more sites for the downloads I can look at?
Edited By Charles Oates on 18/03/2022 12:21:32
|Thread: Radio Range on 2.4|
I don't think that's contentious Richard. Without a decent radio set all that money spent on the model and engine could all vanish. Perhaps it would be a good idea to see what radio is favoured by the OMRA racers, they have lots of experience.
|Thread: Battery size|
I'm glad we were able to help Cliff, good luck with your model. As you progress, we would like some pictures, Carriers aren't very common, so a new one is always of interest.
Feel free to ask about anything you need to.
Hi Cliff, I'll do a bit of informed guess work for you. I'm pretty sure your model is 54 inches long, not beam, as has been asked. The Hanpose motors can be 12 or 24 volts, so I'll presume you got the 12 volt versions, and that you fitted some reasonable propellers, perhaps 40 mm ones, or near that size.
If all that is near the mark, I would get 5 ah ( 5000 mah) nimh batteries, and 25 amp mtronics speed controllers, two sets, one for each motor. Lead acid batteries might be tempting, because the weight can be used as ballast, but wouldn't be my choice because the voltage can fall off with higher ampage motors.
There are many other ways of doing this, each of us has our preferences, but the above should give you some idea.
A last point, please respond to your replies, we often find that new posters forget to come back to us, and everyone on here would like your model to be a success.
|Thread: Corvette Flower Class Matchbox|
You'll need to say what motor is fitted, this dictates the battery voltage needed. Most of us would probably guess correctly, but it's best to be sure.
|Thread: Hobbies Handbook 2022|
My son gets me a new one every Christmas, there's always a lot of interesting stuff in there.
I'm also a firm believer in supporting such a long established hobby company. If they ever disappear there'll be nothing like them left. The catalogue even interests many people who're not normally interested in model making.
|Thread: Vic smeed plans for ic speed boats|
Cachalot is available from sarik plans. Click the shop tab on this site.
Both snapper and remora seem to have been withdrawn which is a surprise as they were both good boats.
Maybe the Facebook model plans section can help with them.
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