Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 4 or 5 motors|
Hi Q, over five and a half years and seven pages of ideas. Isn't it time to build something and make your dream come true? I've made the mistake of putting off a dream build too long, so I urge you to start building, just get on with it. Once you have started, and know the hoped for performance, and the number and size of the props, speculation about what to put in it will make a lot more sense.
|Thread: Tack cloths and finishing|
Hi all, I was about to order some more tack cloths before moving on to varnishing my model, when I noticed something new to me. Several furniture restoration people are now using microfiber cloths instead, Easyer, cheaper and re usable they say, and just as good. There were also a couple of posts saying they left some fibers behind. That seemed to spark a pro and anti argument.
My question here is have any of you tried microfiber cloths in this way, how did you get on?
|Thread: How to measure what motor I need.|
Blimey Florian, you do things the hard way. I presume that's a 55 turn motor, without any other spec, I don't know how it will perform so just try it as Ashley says. Why do you want to slow the servos?. If you want to move a rudder servo slowly, move the control stick on the transmitter slowly, the rudder copies what you do.
Is you water pump using an electronic switcher? What type.
Always make sure the transmitter is switched on before switching on the receiver, or things will misbehave.
An important tip, if Dave gives you advice on your installation, take note, you could have saved time and money by following his advice.
|Thread: Powered Billings "Danmark"?|
what a beautiful model the Danmark is, and an interesting project. I could be tempted to try this myself so I'll be interested to see how you get on.
I did find a video on youtube of one working, very nice it is too here is a link.
My only possible help is that anything built in and inaccessible invariably goes wrong, and that ballasting will be critical to keep it right way up.
Good luck with the project.
|Thread: How to measure what motor I need.|
Sometimes I feel sorry for posters needing advice, so many of us go about things differently. The methods each of us propose aren't wrong, just different. Anyway, here is my way.
This is a long narrow heavy model, it doesn't need much oomph to keep it going, but plenty to start and stop it. In other words, a version of torque.
For me this starts with the propeller, a large multi blade one moves a greater volume of water, which is needed to start and stop the model. The speed of the prop should be slow compared with , for example a fast cabin cruiser.. once the model has started it won't need much to keep is going nicely. It's all about overcoming inertia.
This boils down to needing a very low kv motor if using brushless, a gearbox / belt drive to drop the revs, or a brushed motor of the big slogger type. If starting from scratch, I'm certain Dave's suggestion in his post would do the job perfectly, not expensive either..
If you are going ahead with brushless, you are aiming for a propeller rpm of under 200 rpm to 2 or 3 thousand, so choose a motor etc accordingly.
In my view, the propeller should be around 70 mm minimum, three or four blade .
Good luck with the build, and keep the ballast very low and we'll spread in that hull, or you'll be sailing upside down.
Edited By Charles Oates on 27/07/2020 10:24:06
|Thread: End point question|
Hi Noel, I might have missed something, but if the model is being overpowered to such a drastic degree, why not just reduce the supply voltage from the 12volts you imply you are using, to 6volts?
|Thread: 3 Motors RC Boat|
Those are my thoughts too, it comes down to walking before you can run. Experience comes with time and practice, then most of the questions will have been answered on your learning curve.
I also notice that no one has mentioned 3rd party insurance, top performing boats can be dangerous if miss used, or something goes wrong. Imagine a 100 mph boat hitting the bank. Lots of bits of metal,, glass /carbon fibre shards, the motor and lipos going into onlookers.yuk. that's why a debris and wildfowl free water is ideal.
If speed is your thing then go for it,I used to love it, but tread carefully.
|Thread: Wanted - Veron Dolphin|
Just an idea, there's a model boat plans group on Facebook (I'm told) where old plans are shared, including requests. It might be worth a shot.
If your search fails, get together whatever dimensions, drawings, pictures you can and post again here. It's likely that an existing plan or model could be rebuilt to look like the old one, and you will probably get some suggestions for a starting point. A lot depends on your modelling experience, but it wont be too difficult.
|Thread: 3 Motors RC Boat|
Just to add my two Pennyworth, I totally agree with Ashley, a single motor and rudder is the way to go for speed. Twins are useful for scale appearance, torque, especially in large scale models and gobbling money. There's a good reason virtually all fast models do it this way......it works.
|Thread: MTB 49|
Hi Michael, if I'm understanding correctly, you're saying that the plan isn't accurate regarding the hull and superstructure size. This is not unusual, many plans, especially those drawn a long time ago were simplified. This was often to make building simpler or allow easier access to the inside. Vic dew plans for the average modeler and materials of the day, and darn good they were, but not always a perfect scale representation.
The superstructure won't take much altering, if you have some more accurate pictures etc, the hull will be more difficult, unless you have some experience with the knock on effects of changing a dimension on a curved structure. I've never worried if my hulls aren't fully accurate, but that's a personal choice.
Let us know what you decide, there's plenty of help to be had for the asking.
|Thread: Question for anyone who's built Vic Smeeds Guardsman|
Thanks to you all for the help. I'm going to lower the prop shaft as John did, it seems much more natural to have it like that. I presume Vic built it the way he did to suit whatever ancient motor he had at the time.
I'm not worried about water coming up the shaft, I overcame that problem a while ago, I make my own shafts and tubes with end bearings and a centre bearing. Each section has a tube soldered in to top up the grease. Simple and cheap and fine for low powered models like this.
The pictures are a great help and thanks for the notes Tony, they will be very useful and I'll take your advice re the tiller arm. I've made the mistake in the past with inaccessible rudder posts, I was swearing at myself last week whilst fixing up an old model, a 20 inch Zwarte Zee.
Hi Ray, I'l sort out a picture tomorrow, but it really is a simple installation, that's why I can't see why Vic drew it the way he did.
Ashley, I don't regard Vics plans as perfect, some are far from that, anyone who's built Mistral will know of a piece that's a couple of inches out. That said, he usually had a very good reason to do things the way he did, and age is making me question my own judgement, hence the question.
Flat Earth.................. It's elephants all the way down!
Our long lockdown has made me very busy in the workshop. I've re built and re finished many older models. Inevitably, when I had finished all that I wanted to start a new build. Out came the old plan for Vic's Guardsman, a build I've been putting of for 40 years. I scaled it up to 29 inches instead of 22.5. I use a very scientific method to choose a scale, it has to fit on a vacant shelf.
Anyway, my question. Vic's plan shows the stern tube and motor at quite a steep angle, and I can't see any reason for that. There is plenty of room to set the motor lower in the hull, plus I'm going to use a geared 385 I have spare, with a low set output shaft so I can put the tube and shaft nearly horizontal. I presume the original would have been like that.
Am I missing something? Did Vic have a good reason for installing the motor as he did, or was it just one of his quirks?
|Thread: My Time Media. Model Boats Magazine.|
Thank goodness for this excellent news, it's what we've all been waiting for. I also want to wish Lindsey all the best as the new editor. Old modelers like me that have been reading the magazine since it was Model Maker will remember that some of the editors and assistant editors came from a variety of backgrounds, and that never affected the quality or variety of the magazine.
The content is partially up to anyone who wants to make a contribution, so in some ways it's up to us to seek a little advice then tap a few keys.
|Thread: Wiring a boat for beginner|
Hi Rob, I notice this is your first post, and I'm guessing you're new to installing radio gear. It's possible that the answer you need has got a bit confused in this 7 year old post so feel free to ask for any help or clarification you need. It's all quite simple when you get used to it. I also have a Hobbyking x car ESC among others, the wiring is identical to Dave's diagram.
|Thread: What boat is this?|
Hi Tim, if you have a look at the plan in Rodgers album, it sets out the cables etc for the mast. The pictures of the build in the old magazine shows some detail, rather blury though when you enlarge it. It appears that shackles were used which makes sense.
|Thread: Spektrum radio|
This is one of those questions where if you ask 10 people, you can get 10 different but valid answers. I've been unlucky with Spectrum, and would never have another, others love them. The cheap Turnigy sets and clones have a remarkable variety, but the simple and cheap set has never failed me. For better gear, I'm a Futaba fan.
Edited By Charles Oates on 21/06/2020 10:58:16
|Thread: Diesel fuel|
I'm going back around 45 to 50 years and my memory might be suspect. But my one and only taps was not at all fussy about fuel, an easy starter and a delight to run. It was a well worn second hand engine as well. An old 7 cc job in a modified Catchalot, went like stink, happy days.
55 years ago I used to make my own fuel, the simple instructions were printed in a popular modeling book of the time, and the main ingredient could be bought at the local chemist.
That might sound like an endorsement to go ahead and do the same, it isn't. Frankly its a miracle I'm still here, the things that could have gone wrong, and nearly did would have finished me. I was behaving exactly as kids of that time did, it was a time when we made our own fireworks too, but to get through it you needed to be lucky, which I was. My motors never performed as well with the home made stuff as with the commercial fuel anyway.
There's another reason not to do it, chemistry had advanced, and I think I'm right in saying that the commercial fuel now contains something particularly hazardous.
It is perhaps one of those subjects where if you are sufficiently qualified and knowledgeable to do it, you wouldn't need to ask the question.
|Thread: Model motor listing|
Whilst looking online for something slightly different, I stumbled across this list of model motors. The information is basic, but still can be useful. I don't know how many are listed, but it must be over a thousand. List generated in 2017.
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