Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vic Smeed's model designs|
My mistake, so he did. He didn't respond to the reply to it though. A response and a conversation would have kept the post going.
Hi Jon, how about the kit made by slec of the aerokits police boat? Very similar to Bobby, and a great price.
You will probably get more responses by starting a new thread, than tacking onto the end of an old unrelated one.
Edited By Charles Oates on 20/10/2021 21:06:57
|Thread: Mental blockage etc|
Hi Bob, yes, many of us have the same problems remembering how we wired up our models. I ended up putting little labels on many of the leads so I could identify them.
If your rudder is giving a kick when the model is switched on, then the problem is that it isn't getting a signal from the transmitter. Postpone other checks until you've done the transmitter checks already suggested. I.e. correct transmitter, transmitter batteries ok?, Crystals if it uses them.
One easy stage at a time, I have to make notes as I go so I don't get lost doing it.
On the plus side of getting forgetful, I sometimes get a nice surprise that I was able to make the model in the first place.
|Thread: Robbe receiver|
If I've guessed correctly, the receiver is the old kompakt one, it pre dates the kind of connections that have been used for decades. The receiver has sockets, and the servo plugs have pins, a system that dates, I think from the 1970s. Trying to use that today with adaptors or changing plugs seems far from wise to me.
I was wondering how an esc could work with only 2 wires. I can't help wondering if Trevor wouldn't be better off ditching the 27 meg gear, some of the components must be at least 40 years old. A new 2.4 gig outfit could cost less than 30 quid. No interference worries, no problems plugging modern servos and escs in and little chance of failure.
It's something to consider.
|Thread: Model Boats - Current Issue|
Even if someone doesn't want to do a full blown article, the readers models section would be a great place for some photos and a bit of text.
Another thing about the content, my interests have changed over the years, and I now look back at old issues to read articles I probably skipped first time around.
|Thread: Which propshaft?|
Hi Harry, I use those too, powerfull but not as much torque, I stand by my 5 mm choice.
I use M5 every time, for any model with significant power like your Spearfish.
|Thread: Esc for twin motors|
Hi Chris, like Ashley says, the old motors are probably some type of 540 ones. Over the last couple of years I've replaced 4 of these in my models with brushless motors. My lightweight crash tender/ fire float has a 28mm outrunner, as has my rtll. Both are faster and run longer with no heating, water cooling would be silly in models like these that are running well within the motors limits. I've also a large heavy Garr Wood Speedster, with a 35 mm outrunner that runs fast and cool.
The point is that I would recommend outrunners for normal models, no cooling needed. I just chose a kv rating to match the battery voltage in each model, it's that simple.
I'm afraid you won't find one, brushless motors exchange information with the esc so 2 motors would give conflicting signals. There are exceptions to this, but not worth considering.
The answer to your problem is simple, use 2 esc s connected to the receiver with a Y lead so they both plug into the same socket on the receiver. As long as the motors and esc s are the same you'll be ok.
Another option is if you have a computerised transmitter that will let you have 2 receiver sockets respond to one stick movement, that sometimes allows other options like mixing. Personally I like to keep things simple and just use a Y lead.
An image I lifted from the web.
I'm surprised your search didn't turn anything up, there are quite a few images and plans on the web.
An American site, the wooden boat store has some very useful stuff, and there are many others.
You could try using the term blueprint instead of plans, and after searching click images. I've used this stuff myself for a recently finished Gar Wood speedster special, which has turned out quite nicely.
I'm also assuming you're a builder of some experience, it takes a while to make a decent model from these drawings, but it's well worth the effort.
I know you said you wanted plans, but there also some kits for similar models from Dumas,. Opinions seem to vary about them.
Edited By Charles Oates on 02/09/2021 10:29:10
|Thread: Help desperately needed.|
Matty, I presume the main battery is fully charged, if you're not sure, can you tell us what kind of battery it is, or describe it. Is there any chance that the battery is old or neglected ie not been charged for a long time.
If all this stuff is new to you, we can talk you through the basics. A picture or two of the insides of the model will help as well. Touch the 'all topics' button on this web site, and you'll see a section at the top about how to post pictures.
It might save you a lot of heartache if we can confirm or eleminate what we think of as the basics, before you go to a lot of trouble.
|Thread: Dual prop question|
I totally agree with Paul, keep it simple. Once you're sailing the model you can't see any difference and no one could care less which way your props turn.
|Thread: LCT Ramp Mechanism|
I made the rear ramp open and close on a ferry, it's much the same idea as your model. Because I'm a believer in keeping it simple and robust, I abandoned the idea of scale fidelity, and just made it work. I used control snakes, like the aircraft boys use to small control horns on the door. The other ends want to extended servo arms and the two servos connected via an action servo morph and a y lead to the receiver. Dead simple and cheap, the servo morph is a brilliant piece of kit for setting up things like this. I made one mistake at first, I didn't allow for fine adjustment of the servos in their mounts for setting up. I suppose it's obvious, but make sure the two servos are the same type.
|Thread: Motor+prop advice|
Hi Richard, I think you are spot on, it uses gps positioning. Great for research purposes, under informed aware and considered conditions. I have no idea what level of experience and knowledge the poster has, for all I know he may be a very experienced developer, with full knowledge and back up to prevent accidents. If not,....... Then the project could be an accident waiting to happen.
Hi Ashley, all good points. My main concern is the idea of a model not under the control of the operator, there is too much that can go wrong. I'm sure the technology works just fine, but it can't tell if someone or something gets in the way. If the model had a system to over ride the gps using radio control, and was under constant scrutiny, that would be fine, but what would be the point of doing it?
I hope you don't mind me asking joao, how do you address the safety aspects of this model? A 1 kw boat, massing maybe3 to 4 kilos could be very dangerous under autonomous control. Do you need special insurance? It's on its own in a seaway or river, you're not in control. If a swimmer or wildlife got in the way, it could be lethal. What would the law say, would you be liable? There's a good reason most of us use radio control, we can see risks and stop the boat when needed.
Personally I've no time for ardurover type systems in modeling, especially with a quick model.
Josh, the advice related by Kev is very good, and I believe is plenty for your model. 1.2 meters isn't particularly big, and the drawing you put a link to shows a narrow hull, too large a motor would be a very bad idea in that model. As long as it's made properly, and not too heavy, the overlander motor will have plenty of power.
|Thread: Revell 1:72 HMCS Snowberry|
I'm puzzled by that Paul, it looks like one of their geared motors in the picture, or have I missed something,....again.
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