Here is a list of all the postings Charles Oates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
The 400 brushless covers quite a range of motors with different kv values and current draw. That said, we can guestimate a bit, typically 6 to 10 amps drawn for many of these motors. Your 3 amp hour battery, presumably a nimh pack would run approximately 30 mins at 6 amps, and 17 mins at 9 amps. This is only ball park, it will vary if you change the running speed, as most of us do, and vary with the efficiency of the pack, as well as other more subtle electrical issues.
I presume you're just trying to get some idea of what to expect from the model, so maybe that will help a bit. In practice, running a quick model with nimh batteries is more forgiving than lipos, just come straight in to the bank as soon as the model starts to slow down a bit. Never run the model untill it's going a lot slower than normal, it knxxxxs the battery.
I hope you enjoy the model, it's a great looking boat.
To calculate that, readers will need to know the battery type and capacity, and the current drawn by the motor. If you haven't a way to measure the current, tell us the battery, motor and prop type and size.
Many people buy a low voltage alarm, this is ( in my view) essential with lipo batteries, and useful for other types.
|Thread: KeilKraft Mermaid|
Someone educate me please. I thought I had a reasonable grasp of the common brushed motors, but the model in the video has me wondering. I haven't seen a 180 motor for a long time, but I don't remember them as anything special, so I thought he meant a 280. The problem is that he's using 7.4 volts, and the only 280s I've used were either 6 volts max or 24 volts max. I presume there are variants I've never seen, or have I got something wrong?
|Thread: Tank steering|
Hi Joe, to boil this down to the basics, and ignoring the tank control, I think you're saying that the esc,s won't set up for normal centre off, up for forward and back for reverse.
I'm assuming that you're following the basics, stick and trim in the centre before switching the tx on, and then powering up the receiver and esc.
Occasionally I've seen escs that don't recognize 'standard' stick centre, it's worth trying the above with the trims a little each way before switching on the equipment.
I notice that the instructions are on the web, do these manuals corespond with the one you're using for the set up?
There's a youtube video about setting up flycolour escs in a boat, have you seen it and did it help?
I don't know if any of that will help you, good luck with them.
|Thread: Advice regarding repairing a crack on a wooden hull|
Hi Paul, it's great that you are restoring the Hanseat, it's a great looking model, one I always admired back in the day.
As has been said, shrinkage like this isn't unusual in an old boat, it's a repair I've done more than once myself, and not difficult to get right. In the old days I would have cleaned out the gap, cut strip wood to size and glued it in, then sanded and re finished the hull. Luckily we have much better materials today, acrylic filler is one of them. I suggest you follow Tims advice, the repair will be sound and it will last. Like Ray, I wouldn't go near resin/ fibreglass for this job, it's not what the stuff is best at.
Another thought for you to consider, as you have the hull stripped down,, it was normal to use a centre punch on the nails so they sat bellow the surface, then fill the recess before sanding and painting. The trick is not to send then right through the wood. It's no big deal, and you might prefer to have it as your dad made it.
Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck.
|Thread: flexible propeller shafts|
Perhaps this will help.
|Thread: Sea rider|
That was a popular first build at the time, and in my view, would still be a great first model today.
Images of the plan can be seen on google, and some of the tv series with the wonderful Bob Symes, are on you tube. Have fun with your model.
|Thread: Digital Archive Not Accessible|
Ray, got the message😁😁😁.
That doesn't seem very fair Chris. I've just re read the reply you got, it said they were doing everything they could to get it up and running, not a promise. Also note that flash support doesn't finish untill 12 January, source for that is adobe themselves. My magazines are still working perfectly this morning. I think we need to cut them some slack, not be over ready to berate a small number of people doing their best in difficult times.
|Thread: flexible propeller shafts|
Hi again, as you can see, people on here would all like to help. I suggest you post some pictures, this might make a big difference to the advice you get. If you haven't posted pictures before, go to all topics, and look at the item on posting pictures.
Hi Jeffrey, yes the korts need to be horizontal, but there is no practical reason why the props and shafts cant be angled, it's what I and hundreds of others do. Normally we just adjust the motor and shaft layout in the hull to give as flat an angle as is practical, remembering to position the motor and coupling where they can be easily accessed for maintenance.
Like Ashley, I've never heard of flexies being used in a sedate model, all that messing about in a delicate scale model wouldn't be for me.
|Thread: Paul Freshney R.I.P|
That's awful news. I never met Paul in the flesh, but had many chats online. He encouraged and tutored me to produce the occasional article and helped me in my modeling. My sincere condolences to his family, to Colin and all his many other friends,.
|Thread: New RC modeller|
That's saved me a search. I forgot to say, the L N motor is the same physical size as the motor you have, so no problems with installing it.
Hi Stephen,, not all that long ago that motor was a popular choice in a fast electric model. Even if you used the throttle gently your narrow boat would be horrible to sail. Follow Dave's advice and you'll be fine, the motor is very inexpensive. Narrow boats need very little power to sail well. Re the fuse, I would still fit one, but It's not essential with the LN motor. A car type blade fuse is the simplest to use, they can be connected with slip on connector's. 10 amp would be my first choice, but I'm guessing about the voltage you're using, 7.2 volts? you could change to a 15 amp one needed.
There was a picture posted recently of a very neat installation with a similar fuse used, one of Colin's I think, I'll have a look for you.
Yes, perfectly normal. The noise is coming from the motor, it's working a bit like a loudspeaker. The electrical pulses that change the motor speed are what you are hearing from the motor. Don't worry about it, the Viper is an excellent piece of kit.
One extra item of advice, many of us fit a fuse between the motor and the esc to protect it if the motor stalls, perhaps from weeding up. Whether you need to depends on your motor and it's stall current.
If any of that doesn't make sense, just ask.
|Thread: Digital Archive Not Accessible|
Chris, thanks for raising this issue, the access to back issues is an important part of the digital subscription for me.
I think the clear reply that the problem is being sorted out, that you copied on here is reassuring, although I don't envy the person who has to convert all those magazines. I'm patient enough to not worry if they aren't all done by January 1st, as long as it's being done.
|Thread: red empress|
Agreed, that should be a stable model, obviously the c of g is too high, the question is why? As Niel said, is the superstructure too heavy or are the internals, especially the battery not low enough. I once saw a model with a lead acid battery stood vertically, that was a nightmare. If nothing seems obvious, take some pictures of the internals, and some showing the outside and inside of the superstructure so we can all give some informed help.
|Thread: ac75 Ineos yacht|
I've just had a look, expecting just a fancy yacht, how wrong could I be. That is the most fantastic thing I've ever seen on the water. The speed, turns, sails/ wings, foils, control etc etc defy belief, it's phenomenal. Big thanks Ashley for posting that.
|Thread: Will Everard - Billings kit|
Great job Steve, it's a pretty boat. I don't see why you can't use 1/72 scale figures, the difference between those and your 1/67 scale only represents a fraction of an inch in height on a 6 foot tall person.
|Thread: Identification of early steam ship|
Eureka. A friend asked me if I knew I could use a picture to google instead of text, I didn't know that. I had a quick look online to find out how to do it, It turns out the photo is of a model built in the Czech Republic. Mr google kindly supplied details of the builder, his club and a link to some drawings, not a lot of information but enough for me to work from.
That takes care of my spare time for at least a year.
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