Here is a list of all the postings Dave Milbourn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
See photos 3 and 4 of the article on model boat electrics.
|Thread: Motors / esc|
Yes, Harry - I found that out when looking for the webpage for the one I fitted into Huntress. I'm told by Chris Fellows that the Overlander ones are very good, and the website certainly shows them as In Stock.
|Thread: Returning modeller|
It would be nice to know as boat electrics at the present time are something I`m trying to catch up on and understand.
This article was written with folk such as yourself in mind Model Boat electrics Since it was written I've been told by others that it's actually rather useful
An updated version of the article 'Radio GaGa, first published a few years ago and now entitled 'The Naming of Parts' was in the pipeline when MB had to close down. It should appear in the near future and describes the nature and functions of transmitter, receiver, servos and battery as well as a few assorted add-ons and some suggestions about what type of radio you should look for.
Do take care when ordering your speed controller - there are TWO Hobbywing 60A Marine Speed Controllers. The one you require is the brushed-motor version. I think the Viper 15A might be a bit borderline for that motor. For batteries, cable, connectors, chargers and all that sort of equipment you won't find a better UK supplier than this company Component Shop
BTW your Futaba Attack is compatible with all current R/C electronic devices such as speed controllers, so you'll not need to change any plugs.
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 06/07/2020 14:21:29
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 06/07/2020 14:27:33
|Thread: Motors / esc|
That's likely quite a heavy boat and will require some serious oomph to get it onto the plane. I might suggest something like two of these Overlander Motors Although I've not used this manufacturer's stuff before, I gather they are a reliable supplier of good equipment and they've been around for ages - that's usually a good sign.
I have one similar spec Turnigy motor in a 36" Fairey Huntress. It runs a 40mm 3-blade prop on a 3S pack but it's a very light model and planes like the big 'un.
I would say that none of the motors mentioned is suitable, being much too fast for the props you propose - 11.1 x 3100 = >34,000 RPM. If you want to make use of the 3S LiPo packs then the motors need to be more like 750kv - 1000kv outrunners. You will need one ESC for each motor and it makes sense then to have a separate battery for each, connecting the ESCs to the receiver with a Y-lead. Do make sure that you disconnect the red wire in the 3-wire Rx lead from one of them to avoid the receiver being fed two different voltages from the BEC circuits.
BTW the photo isn't vey informative but that hull doesn't look like it will plane very easily. Is it a hard-chine hull?
|Thread: One ESC, or two|
PM sent. I think we shoud continue this privately.
|Thread: Question for anyone who's built Vic Smeeds Guardsman|
Yep! 154 miles.
Vic was a genius but nobody's perfect, so if it feels right to make the shaft angle shallower and there's no obstruction preventing it then do it. The "angle" arguement breaks down when it comes to displacement hulls with high stern counters. Like Vic, John Elsy knows what he's doing - or he's had me fooled for over 20 years!
Incidentally, Tony Hadley's build is here Guardsman build
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 03/07/2020 19:19:01
|Thread: BRUTUS MK 11|
I didn't post the drawings as a suggestion for Bob's model - just by way of an explanation and an example of what has already been done on one model. Bob - as always - will make his own choice for his own reasons and I wouldn't presume to offer him any advice unless asked directly.
Regarding the increase in efficiency, that would be much easier to achieve by fitting brushless motors and not those horrible MFA throwbacks to the Dark Ages. If you posess one of these 850 motors then, to quote the sleeve notes on Tubular Bells, "you should hand it in at the nearest police station". While you're there you can also hand in any resistive-board/coil speed controllers and any devices contrived from a servo and microswitches. The rozzers might also appreciate any SLA batteries which they can use either as doorstops or "restraints"...... Come on, people - we're already into the third decade of the 21st century.
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 03/07/2020 18:43:35
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 03/07/2020 18:51:36
These are screen grabs from the plans I drew of Vliestroom, a kit by Model Slipway which was designed in 2002. The twin props are fixed but have thrust tubes (or nozzles, if you prefer) with a rudder fixed vertically to the rear edge. The centre-line of the nozzle shaft coincides with the middle of the prop so that when the nozzle rotates the clearance between it and the prop remains more or less constant. In this case the props were 30mm diameter and the ID of the nozzle was a tad shy of 32mm. The model was very manouverable.
|Thread: One ESC, or two|
You can connect the P63 plug (which would normally go into the receiver) to the pins H2 on P94, so you won't need a special lead. It won't be vey loud.
|Thread: Keel clamps|
I think I might just forget to read any more of your posts, Mr Beeney.
|Thread: Covid update|
You seem to have bucked the lockdown trend and lost weight, Doc - and blue is SOOOOOO you, ducky!
I'm going to the hairdressers on 10th July! I'm counting the days down until then. To think that when I was 18 I couldn't wait for school to end and I could grow my hair.....
|Thread: Yacht Ardent|
SLEC replied (eventually) but want to see the plans first, plus a list of required parts - I would have thought they could work that out from the plans !
The staff at SLEC are great people. I've worked with some of them for nearly 50 years. They are, however, not modellers - they run a manufacturing business which revolves around a wood-mill and an injection-moulding shop. I imagine they would prefer you to submit finished CAD drawings of any parts you require. Tracing plans into CAD software and working them up for use on a CNC router or laser takes time and expertise, and you'd be charged accordingly. Frankly you'd be better off making your own with a decent scroll-saw; it would be a lot cheaper!
|Thread: Wiring a boat for beginner|
This is it. The ESC shown is an MTroniks type and a suitable fuseholder and 15A fuses can be obtained here Fuse Holder You could omit the 15A switch and simply remove and replace the fuse to turn the main power off and on.
I'm afraid I know nothing about the Hobby King ESC but they're all pretty much the same format. The SLA battery I've drawn is only for the purposes of illustration - in practice you should use a NiMH pack.
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 23/06/2020 11:59:53
Edited By Dave Milbourn on 23/06/2020 12:01:13
|Thread: Spektrum radio|
Thanks for that, Gareth. I've not heard of that feature on any other brand of radio, but Spektrum always did things their own way. It does make sense when you think about it, but it means that if you move a receiver from one model to a new one then you need to rebind it with the Tx. It won't affect Brian's choice - he still only needs the one transmitter.
As regards failsafe it's a royal PITA for a model boat - unless it's powered with an I/C engine. It doesn't help that manufacturers all seem to have a slightly different way of settling into failsafe mode. Some will revert to a preset position for every servo; some will freeze all the servos at their present position except the throttle, which is returned to dead-slow or stop; some will centre all the servos before setting the failsafe position of the throttle. The only way to find out is to switch off your Tx and see what happens. It would be useful if one could simply turn it off. After all, modern electronic speed controllers invariably stop the motor if no valid signal is received.
I have to confess that my explanation took a lot longer to write than I thought it might - and I wasn't very happy with it at the end of the process. If it made some sort of sense then I'm content.
"So many toys - so little time...."
I'm glad to have been of some help. I had a Spektrum set once. I bought it for compatibility testing with ACTion stuff but I didn't like it much and sold it on. I'm now standardised on Hitec but that's become increasingly hard to get hold of. At least Spektrum has a UK service agent.
I also try to set my models up with the rudders in the same "sense" and the throttles all the correct way round. The throttle fwd/rev is easy but it's not always possible with the rudder, though. I've found that some models are better "tamed" by reducing the rudder servo end-points while others are OK at 100% each way. That's where the model memory really helps.
Very true but, as my late friend Craig Talbot said, "there's nothing you can realistically do to prevent the damage that can be caused by a truly determined idiot".
There seems to be some confusion over the use of the model memory function. Please can I explain it - at least as far as I know it from practical experience of my Hitec and Futaba sets?
The required parameters for a given model [e.g. servo directions, throws, differentials etc] are programmed into the transmitter and then given a model name. You can set up as many as ten or more different sets of parameters on the same transmitter and give them all different names.
When you wish to operate a particular model you select the corresponding name on the transmitter when you switch it on. The receiver in the model will then respond to those settings. If you were then to select a different model memory on the Tx then that same receiver would follow the new settings i.e. the memory is set up in the transmitter, and any receiver whose frequency has been bound to that Tx will respond. No model memory data is 'held' in the receiver.
In practice then you would set up Yachts 1 - 3 [assuming that they all require different settings] and Locos 1 and 2 as model names on the transmitter and then select whichever model-memory name corresponds to the model you've chosen to run.
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