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Member postings for Malcolm Frary

Here is a list of all the postings Malcolm Frary has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: leaning boat
27/09/2012 10:26:26

If its leaning in so far as to grab, the immediate answer is to slow down for corners. Assuming a multi chine hull, chine rails to square off the chines might reduce the tendency to grab at speed when turning.

Thread: speed controller?
23/09/2012 11:23:35

thanks tom, bit unclear on 1 point. if th esc is powered by the receiver battery why are there two pins for a main batery supply? i`m not up on electronics but i would think it works on the same principal as the hitech sp 6/10 esc.

Any ESC has two main parts. The control part, which runs off the same supply as the receiver, and the output part, which runs off the main power battery. Some ESCs have an extra part, the BEC, which takes the main battery supply and reduces it to a suitable voltage for the control part. Since this can also supply regulated power to the rest of the control components, it often gets used for that job.

From what I remember of the Hitech, it needed a separate supply for the receiver and its control part.

Enlarging on Tom's mention of the relay - always ensure that the relay only operates for reverse. If used for forward (i.e. with the TX N/R in "R" to give forward with stick forward), the relay will be operated and flattening your RX battery rapidly. After a while, when the RX battery voltage drops to a level when the relay won't operate, you wind up with a boat that will only run in reverse.

Thread: Motor for Revell Flower Class Corvette
30/08/2012 13:59:26

Have you found this **LINK** yet? Might not have the exact information you need, but a good read anyway.

Like Dave says, a 385 running on about 1/2 its rated voltage will do fine. Prop size is not really critical - just keep in mind that these were not racers. The kit prop is probably finer pitched than a store- bought one, but again, at the appropriate performance level, it is not likely to make a huge difference.

I have seen vids on the tube where a totally inappropriate motor had been fitted and the thing planed.

Thread: Help needed choosing pilot launch!
30/08/2012 13:44:55

Speedline had a nice looking kit on the end of their stand at Haydock. Might be the old HFM one brought back to life.

Thread: Drive Line Problem. Please help!
26/08/2012 19:56:24

I did once have a case where the bearing had seized to the shaft. Oiling it allowed the shaft to turn, but after a little while it became apparent that the bearing was still seized to the shaft, it was now the bearing rotating in its housing. This was in a prop shaft, but the idea still applies.

If the prop shaft has been partially seized as well as the geared shaft bearings, freeing the geared shaft bearings might have allowed the torque generated to make the prop shaft move, but needed more torque than the UJ could transmit. That way, the UJ could be in a state of being not quite broken, but very ready to be so if used to transmit serious power.

Thread: Mystery fault
26/08/2012 19:27:16

Cleaning (by a bit of light abrasion if the legs look at all tarnished) of the crystal legs might help. This must be done gently - while crystals are generally incredibly tough, the metal of the legs is brittle, and the hermetic seal can easily be damaged.

Check supply voltage under load, at the battery, at the RX end of the lead (remember that the switch, if fitted, and its associated joints can give problems). If its all playing dead, less likely canditates are the servos, but it is possible for both to go faulty at the same time. Unlikely, but still possible.

Check the RX aerial lead for any unexpectedly bendy bits in the area of it exit from the box. If the wire is broken inside the insulation this can give problems, but this can be eliminated if the servos dont twitch at power-on.

Thread: Distance
18/08/2012 22:02:11

To go for the second question first -

2/ How easily does the pro spin, with and without the motor connected? A hot motor is one that is working hard, either because its turning an unsuitable prop and/or running on the wrong voltage and/or there is friction in the shaft that it has to overcome.

Is the TX known to work OK with anything else?

1/ Although there is no interference, an overworked motor can produce its own, and reduce the effectiveness of the signal, either by generating radio frequency that the aerial picks up, or by injecting the signal into the power lines.

Thread: help with motor selection?
10/08/2012 14:20:58

"with gears you can move two propellers, the outrunner motors are very poweful!!"

I take it that this is a gearbox that allows for one of the shafts to reverse, and there would be some means of controlling this, to go towards the same level of control as 2 motors.

For simplicity, two direct drive motors, each with its own ESC. Again, Dave's suggestion of 700BB Turbo motors is valid for pushing that size of boat along at the speed wanted - I doubt that there is a 400 size equivalent brushless motor (incidentally, brushless motors are electric) than can do the same job as 2 of 700BBs, regardless of any theoretical increase in efficiency.

Thread: Yacht Sails
25/10/2007 16:23:00

http://www.nylet.co.uk/

http://www.housemartinsails.co.uk/

http://www.sailsetc.com/

and a google for "model sail making" should produce useful results. 

Thread: 27mhz or 40mhz what does it mean
04/10/2007 11:06:00

These are the bands that the radios work in.  Each band has several channels.  27MHz is a general purose band, we use one end, things like CB use the other.  40MHz is dedicated to surface model use.

27MHz channels are colour coded, 40MHz use the significant numbers from the actual broadcast frequency to identify the channel being used.  The channels are selected by the use of crystals in pairs, one for the transmitter, one for the receiver.  You cannot put a 40MHz crystal into a 27MHz set and expect it to work, and vice-versa. 

Many of the radios in RTR sets are designed with economy in mind, resulting in compromised performance.  They do not usually specify what channel in the band they use, because they use all of them at low power which usually results in them ceasing to work when a "proper" hobby quality set is switched on anywhere within range.

Thread: Propeller Question
21/09/2007 20:07:00

For Robert - the best known way is to ensure that the inner end is above the waterline.  Otherwise, follow the US convention of calling such tubes "stuffing boxes" - they get stuffed with grease.  On a model, light water resistant grease as too much heavy grease introduces drag.  

Another way is to make sure the bearings are a close fit, and that the end play is minimal.  I tend to favour using a small "O" ring as a washer at the prop end.

Thread: Straight pins - Model pins
15/09/2007 14:43:00

The pins are ordinary dressmakers/stationary pins, widely available.  Some model/craft stores sell them with a plastic bead stuck to the blunt end.  Like telstar says, there is not always a need to pin throught the wood.

Most hardware stores sell modellers clamps in packs of several dozen per pound.  They call them "spring clothes pegs" but we know better.  It is easy to reshape the ends of the wooden ones to get the grip required.

Thread: Taycol Motors
08/09/2007 11:52:00

I had a long conversation with a guy in New Zealand on the old MB forum on this subject. 

Eventually he did a bit of surgery on the motor to separate the field winding terminals and the brush terminals so that he had four terminals.  He then fed the field winding through a bridge rectifier, + and - terminals feeding the winding, ~ connections across the brushes and the ESC output.  It worked, but in retrospect it would have been easier and cheaper to just go out and buy a modern motor.

He also had trouble supressing the motor, as motors from that era were not designed with radio control in mind.

Thread: Silent Power!
22/08/2007 11:09:00

You could have gained some play in the bearings.  I had a shaft that was noisy, and the bearings were OK but the steel shaft had worn.  As Charles says, alignment is important.

You could do worse than look at the how to pages on

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/

Silicone sealant is a good motor mount, but some brands give of acetic acid (vinegar smell) while curing, which is not good for any metal parts.  I have started using hot glur gun glue instead.  Non-corrosive and sets a lot quicker.

21/08/2007 16:00:00
I have replaced the plastic U/J part with silicone rubber tube over the splined fittings.  The first try worked loose too easily, but clamping it down with heatshrink tubing cured that problem.  The motor might benefit from mounting on rubber bushes.  I usually use the servo mout rubbers that I dont use for servos.
Thread: Differential Steering
12/08/2007 12:26:00
As far as the RX is concerned, the ESC is just another servo. In the elder days, a servowould work a controller via a linkage, the ESC avoids having the linkage and quite often issmaller than the servo in the first place. Nothing wrong with the switch arrangement apart from it being a lot less progressive than the full ESCs + mixer arrangement. A lot cheaper as well.
Mixers available from Action, Mtronics and several other manufacturers. Have a google for "RC mixers".
Thread: Radio mods
11/08/2007 23:16:00
Lindberg?
I've been running one of these with the same arrangement for about ten years. Zero deadband, but no worries. How often do you come to a dead stop and stay there?
I just use the trim as an engine rom telegraph.
Thread: Differential Steering
11/08/2007 23:09:00
You can hook two ESCs and a ruuder to a two cannel set using a mixer. This will give differential steering, only better, because it will be proportional. The rudder is optional in this case.
Thread: Ponds or Water suitable for model boats
11/08/2007 23:04:00
http://www.modelboatlakes.co.nr/
has a list contributed by people who admit to waters that they know. Not definitive, but not everybody has told yet.
Thread: Electrics?
11/08/2007 23:00:00
Go to a car accessory shop. Buy a blade type fuse mount and a selection of matching fuses, up to the max stated on the ESC and replace the melted blob. THe bayonet type fuse holders tend to get HOT and the plastic does melt. Been there, waited for the boat to drift in...
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