Here is a list of all the postings Malcolm Frary has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New to Boat/Ship Modeling|
Looking at **LINK** I have to wonder if the kit makers knew about Norman shields. The Vikings and Anglo-Saxons were fond of circular shields, but the Normans tended to go for inverted teardrop shaped ones, or "kite shields".
When the Perkasa kits were first released, the only options were SLA and brushed motors, and were never satisfactory. They were waiting for lithium batteries and brushless motors. While the web is a great source of information, this is one of the areas where you need to consider the age of that information.
|Thread: speed controller and fuses|
What is "fail safe" with a rudder? If the battery supply drops the voltage to the rudder servo, all that usually happens is that it stops working. As long as there is a valid signal coming out of the receiver, the servo, with enough power, will do as it is told. Normally, a servo will not pull much more than 1/2 Amp, so should not normally be the first thing to suffer with falling supply voltage. A good servo, that is.
The control part of an ESC will normally take a very few mA to run itself, but if it is one using a relay for reverse, it is important to ensure that the relay only operates to reverse. The extra 100mA places a considerable drain on the RX battery if in use continuously for forward running. It might also have a noticeable effect on battery life in a BEC system. No specific experience with MFA ESCs, so just general thoughts.
|Thread: Nicad replacement|
Sure ts 200mAH? That is incredibly tiny.
|Thread: speed controller and fuses|
I can't think why MFA might say that a fuse rated higher than the ESC that it is associated with,either. A fuse that is too heavy is reliable, but no real use.
|Thread: Graupner Wiesel RC setup|
If you intend to protect the boat, you need a fuse between battery and ESC. That protects the boat against a broken ESC. The only sensible time to have fuses between ESC and motor is if more than one motor is fed by one ESC, and that is more for testing purposes than protection.
|Thread: r/c setup advice|
Opinions will dffer, but -
Motor - 540/1 or a geared 540 like this - **LINK** - and a coupler to connect the motor shaft to the prop shaft. You want thumping power, not a race motor. Depending on the motor chosen, you might need a suppressor kit.
ESC to control the motor, probably a Marine Viper 15
Something to power it all with, it is a tug with plenty of carrying ability, so a 12 volt NiMH pack (or a pair of 6 volt packs and a series Y lead) will do the job. A pack like that comes with a connector that matches the ESC, and is difficult to connect incorrectly. Will probably need ballast.
Something to control the rudder - a servo. Any "standard size" will do the job.
Something to plug the ESC and Servo into. Any full range entry level 2G4 radio that does not say "park flyer" on the label will do the job. You usually get a transmitter and matching receiver. Find your own transmitter batteries. Note that when plugging into a radio, the black wire ALWAYS goes to the pin on the outside edge of the board, And, as a reminder to myself, ON the pins, not between them.
Battery connector plugs into ESC battery connector. ESC motor leads connect to the motor terminals. ESC control lead plugs into the radio (probably channel 3). Servo plugs into channel 1. The radio is powered from the ESC, which also has an on/off switch.
Not in the boat, but generally dirt cheap, a Servo Tester. Every home should have one.
The radio will usually either come with instructions or have a manual available for download. It ill be written in Aeroplane terms, but will still be usable. Reputable ESCs come with a connection diagram.
|Thread: Weight distribution in an RC yacht hull|
Since it is a new build, this probably dosen't apply.
Several years ago I got a second hand Victoria at a B&B. Downloaded the instruction book and sorted the previous owners more obvious mistakes which were the probable reason for the boat being disposed of, then went sailing. The makers blurb claimed that a normal servo would work the sails. They lied. Sent off for a high torque one. Worked great, but soon showed up the wiring, which needed replacing.
Hi-torque servos need a good power supply, they do draw more current than a "normal" servo.
To get the required travel, the line was doubled back at the servo arm, when it was eventually replaced by a drum winch, I opted for a 4 turn one which wasn't noticably slower than a 2 turn, but had more travel than needed. I did the doubling on deck, which increased the torque at the sail boom. This allowed sailing in stronger winds, which resulted in new sails. The drum winch does let the batteries last longer, they are not constantly trying to correct for being pulled off point.
What Kip said in both his posts.
When arranging the line run(s) on a sail arm, it is best to arrange things so that when hauled in, the line passes as near as possible to the fixing screw of the servo arm from its last guide point. You get the best mechanical advantage when it is needed that way.
The new breed of drum winches are much easier to mount and rig. When mounting a sail arm, you need to remember that all of the forces from the sail contribute to a twisting effort at the servo mount, and nature is always looking for the weakest link. A drum servo just offers a pull in one direction. Also, they don't need anything like the same space to allow for the swing of the arm not hitting anything. Beware of mounting the switch anywhere where a slack line (from letting the sail out in light airs) can snag it. A yacht that has managed to switch itself off is a PITA.
The layout looks fine, if you are going for competitive racing, fine tuning the balance "might" make a difference, but sailing for pleasure, you will not notice any difference at all. Obviously, if there is another sailboat on the water, a race is happening. That is just the way that it is.
|Thread: ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROLLER|
The instructions are very good, but when going through them and doing the job, you need to have them open. ESCs, like most modern electronic devices, know when the instruction book is being read and followed. Doing exactly the same thing, but with the book open, seems to do the trick when the first time didn't.
Important 1st step on the curve - always switch the transmitter on first, and off last. With the instructions open.
Probably safe with the marine 10A, or for a modest extra outlay, the 15A version. Both offer exactly the same level of control. The really nice thing about electronicspeed controls using pulse switching is that what will control a big motor will do just as well with a small one. The downside of pulse switching is that the motors are liable to whine a bit. Personally, I quite like that as I know that something is happening when I move the stick.
|Thread: Sail Winch Woes|
It is likely to have started with either muck in the pot upsetting its snse of where it is, or gunge in the gear train, or both. No experience with this particular winch, but a stalled one can easily take out the output transistors, which usually live inside a chip. OTOH the slowing down bit suggests that the motor might have got tired.
A lot of patient stripping of the parts for cleaning and checking is likely needed (except the pot - sealed for life). Or call for assistance from someone who knows as suggested.
|Thread: Problem setting up receiver on RC boat|
Most radios that are intended for flight control have some sort of "failsafe" that turns the throttle to minimum in the event of signal loss. OK with a forward only ESC, but the same signal from the receiver that thell a forward only ESC to stop means "go full speed reverse" on an ESC with reverse.
2 fairly essential tools are a Y lead with a spare servo to see what the ESC is seeing, and a servo tester to offer known conditions without the uncertainty introduced by the radio. Both cheap.
In the past, simple radios just took instructions from the stick and passed the information on as a signal to tell the servo to mimic the stick position without messing about with it. Modern electronics has allowed all sorts of cleverness to creep in, which is not always helpful.. Unexpected facilities (like semi active failsafes that are only safe in the right circumstances) can appear as faults, especially if the instructions either pass over the details, or use terms that are misleading to the reader.
As Chas & Dave said, knowing the ESC make & model will help.
|Thread: Fairly new to boats.|
I don't know about your ducks, but the ones at Fairhaven usually seem to be laughing at something I've done with my boat. Not without reason, but then again.............
|Thread: Fairey Huntsman|
Some are the complete item with mains going in one end and a LiPo connection at the other. Some are just the clever bit that re-arranges a 12 volt supply to do a balance charge. Some are split because the technology for converting mains to a dumb 12 volts is well established and can be bought in bulk. The actual bit that connects between the 12 volt DC supply and the battery is very individual to each manufacturer. Not having to certify a mains unit cuts costs enormously. It gives the end user the choice of using your own 12 volt supply, be it a 12 volt battery, a car socket, or a mains driven power supply.
Could be a way of final charging from storage to full on the drive to pool. Depending on length of drive and size of battery and capabiliy of charger.
|Thread: Supper glue|
The use of any implement to hold a drop, transort and apply it works with almost any liquid adhesive, not just superglue.
|Thread: Jules Verne's "Nautilus"|
A quick goggle for "nautilus 20000 leagues" gave a stack of hits, including an "images" section, one of which led to this -
|Thread: Throttle Stick not working|
While messing with the wires to the new pots, there is a good chance of finding the broken wire.
When I was apprenticing, a wise elder told me "Get as technical as you like, young Malcolm, but look for th'brokken wire first.". A few weeks later, I could have added a rider to that wisdom - "Make sure the diagram is flat enough to see all the small, but important bits like the 1 second pulse supply." In the first case, he took pity on my grovelling, in the second, my grovelling over the diagram flattened out the fold that was hiding the important bit. Eventually. Could have been dumb luck, but all part of lifes learning curve.
|Thread: Graupner Wiesel RC setup|
"Real" enamel or acrylic? With old style enamel, you prepared the surface, painted it, let it dry and you could use it. With acrylic, you prepare, prime, prepare again, paint a few times, then you can apply a layer or two of protective laquer, then hope that that doesn't remove the paint.
Revell, being mainly a manufacturer of plastic kits, are very likely to have them in mind when producing paint.
Humbrol spent decades building a reputation for consistent high quality paint for modellers. Then they outsourced production abroad where it seems that employment was found for the colour blind. Having spent a few years simulaneously cutting production costs and destroying their good reputation, they are having an uphill struggle to get it back, probably not helped by regulations governing the formulas used.
|Thread: Throttle Stick not working|
When talking about 27MHz transmitters, it is as well to remember that they were, as complete units, very much interchangeable.as regards range, power and layout, if not internal components.
The only big difference with Futaba was their insistence that neutral was 1.25mS rather than 1.5 like the rest of the world, and they liked to reverse the servo f-r logic. So if a 27MHz transmitter in working condition that has been rendered surplus by somebody else moving to 2G4 might be an economic answer.
Want the latest issue of Model Boats? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!
Make sure you never miss out on the latest news, product reviews and competitions with our free RSS feed
We welcome well written contributions from Website members on almost any aspect of Model Boating with a particular emphasis on practical hints, tips, experience and builds.
In order to maintain a consistent standard and format, all suggestions should first be sent to me by Personal Message for approval in principle. Only a very limited amount of time is available for editing contributions into a suitable format for placing on the website so it is important that the material is well presented, lucid and free from obvious spelling errors. I think it goes without saying that contributions should be illustrated by appropriate photos. I shall be happy to give advice on this.
The Member Contribution area offers space for short informative mini articles which would not normally find a place in Model Boats magazine. It is an opportunity for Website Members to freely share their expertise and experience but I am afraid that virtue is its own reward as there is no budget to offer more material recompense!
I look forward to receiving your suggestions.
Colin Bishop - Website Editor