Member postings for Peter Sykes

Thanks for the further replies and advice, much appreciated.

I've got everything needed, apart from a set of decent needle files, from what I've got for working with timber, so I'll have a bash now.

Ray, I don't know if they are chrome or aluminium but I'm going to try that Guild Lane Silver Chrome paint that the former editor used.

Chris

Hi Chris,

I've built scale models for years and the best "metallic" Chrome / Silver / Aluminium paint I ever found is the ALCLAD range. VAllejo are really good as well. But whatever you choose make sure you clean off the plasticard with some IPA and prime it first..

Regards

Peter

A lot of the Glynn Guest plans use balsa as a construction material, with a lot of them available as free plans with Model Boats Magazine.

hi Richard,

Hi Richard,

I've never built off a plan. Just too lazy and don't really have the facilities to cut out the bits.

Regards

Peter

Hi Peter,

Long gone are the Keil Kraft days, but J Perkins are distributing some new kits with ply keel, bulkheads & deck with balsa sheeting to the sides and bottom, they are around £60 for the wood kit, I built their review model Riviera Launch they are quite sweet

Regards Ray

Thanks Ray,

I'll have a look at that.

I am still working on my OSA 1, which I started at the start of lockdown 1. I did finish a Fairey Huntsman but not been able sail it yet.

Tim

I do like that huntsman. You've made a cracking job of it. Reall first class.

Regards

Peter

Yes you will need a surface piercing prop, but try an X propfirst!

Ashley

Peter,

I'd prefer it if you were not to start selling items having only just joined the forum. We do of course welcome your participation in discussions and will be very happy to give you advice.

Thanks,

Colin

Thanks for the message Colin,

I actually joined 2017. But, I understand.

Regards

Peter

Edited By Colin Bishop on 01/02/2021 10:48:42

Peter. Is the prop going to sit on the waterline or be fully submerged? If it’s on the waterline ie level with the bottom lip of the stern, obviously(?) you will need a surface piercing prop, but if submerged, a normal X type two blade one.

Surface piercing ones can be larger than underwater ones as they are only half submerged.

X series props will drive almost anything, and are very cheap. A wattmeter is the thing to use when setting up, so you can see how much current is being drawn for whatever prop you have, and you can judge speed verses power consumption when juggling with sizes. AND you can keep the current draw within motor and esc specs. Buy a few (35, 40, 45) and try them out.

Probably you will have a dog-drive on the flexi, but X props can be converted by cutting off the end, filing out the threads and filing a slot for the dog. No doubt no one would recommend this, but it worked for me....

I like those club 500 boats. Straightforward, not too big, quite quick and robust. If or as and when I sell the Fantome I may buy one.

Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 01/02/2021 11:09:18

I guess I'll need a Surface Piercing prop Ashley.

I'd start with a Club 500, at least you can afford to loose it when it hits a solid object!

Seriously though using a Club 500 hull as a test bed for development ideas and modifications can be very useful while you build your main model, plus it can be on the water very quickly helping you learn racing techniques and be better prepared when the main model is ready to go.

Hi Richard,

This one is an Engineering exercise. Just to see if i can do it. I'm no planning to race it. Just to see if it'll work.