Here is a list of all the postings Dodgy Geezer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Leaking hull|
First step is to find the leak. Try drying out the hull, puffing a bit of talcum powder in and looking to see where the leak develops first...
|Thread: servo control|
If it were this brand, there would be no problem - **LINK**
I wonder if you can buy the dual throttle separately? And yes - here you can - https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/253935/
Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 13/08/2017 08:40:07
|Thread: shark jaw bone|
There's one here: **LINK**
A common technique is to give a hull a resin coat - Z-Poxy is a well-regarded brand...
Is it already painted?
|Thread: Info on boat|
Google may help here : **LINK**
Is Precedent still alive as part of Balsacraft? If so, the company archives may be of use...
|Thread: Todays Boating|
Clicking in the link I provided will give you the same ones (from Wiki), only with a bigger and sharper image of the whole boat, I think....
Here is another, more detailed link... http://www.battleships-cruisers.co.uk/hms_sans_pareil.htm
And some deck plans... https://northstarmodels.com//wp-content/uploads/2016/02/is70085_Sans_Pareil-1.jpg
Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 07/08/2017 09:02:37
|Thread: Newbie What to get for out of the box boat|
If you have a club near you, talk to the modellers. You will find that they are an approachable bunch. Find one who runs a boat you like and talk to him about it.
You will probably find, as indicated above, that very few use a completely unmodified RTS boat, since commercial pressures always bring some limitations. Modellers often change the battery, to get better duration, then the radio to obtain better control, and finally the motor to get more speed...
|Thread: Todays Boating|
It's this one, isn't it..? **LINK**
|Thread: Eezebilt PT Boat|
I have fired one (with blanks) from the deck of a minesweeper at a pair of Meteors doing a dummy attack off Malta. Though I was only 16 at the time, I couldn't move it fast enough to track a subsonic jet....
Here's a picture of a Bofors on the back of a PT boat...
Is that seat on the Bofors facing the right way? Looks back-to-front to me...
|Thread: Vosper RAF Fire Boat RC Stuff|
A problem with different paints is that they can react with each other - sometimes a little while after painting - and you get a ruined finish. Because we don't know what paint is on your boat, we are cautious about advising any particular brand. You will need to test ANY paint you buy on the boat surface before doing a full paint job.
You haven't given us any pictures of the complete boat, so we can't estimate the best way to treat the deck. A common approach might be to sand it down, then to use one of the Halford's Car Paint aerosols to spray a primer, then a topcoat of your desired colour. But it would be useful to see things before giving any firm advice...
Put two bits of cord into holes on each side of the cardboard box, continue round underneath and come up the other side, and you have a useful set of handles to carry it to the lake.So long as it stays dry, it will do the job...
I'd be surprised if the servo was glued to the stern base. You would want to take it out for maintenance, and to use in other models. Check whether it is screwed to the keel in some way...
For an emergency, take a cardboard box about 18" long from the nearest supermarket and cut two opposite ends in a 'V' shape to match the hull at that point....
One of my links is to 'Phil's Workbench'. He is a professional railway modeller, who also does boats. Look at his home page. Here is the link to it **LINK**
Stands are many and various. You will have to make one to suit your boat. Many people make a framework out of plastic tubing - **LINK** I usually make mine out of wood.
The stages are:
1 - find a plank of wood, about 1/2" to 3/4" thick
2 - measure the angles at the bottom of your boat where the stand will go
3 - cut two pieces of wood to these angles
Note that a stand is not just for show - you will need to prepare the boat by the side of the lake. You do this on a stand, which should be high enough to keep the prop and rudder completely off the ground. That way, you can run the motor and check the rudder motion BEFORE putting the boat in the water. Afterwards is a less good idea....
For a 36" boat, I would guess that a rudder about 50mm long would be fine. The link I gave you earlier has some standard sizes, at around £6. If you phone these people and have a chat, I am sure they will advise you well - they are a reputable model boat company - **LINK** I would suggest the 'medium' one on that page...
Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 04/08/2017 12:38:54
I like the prop-shaft! How is the skeg connected to the tube?
The Crash Tender looks like an Aerokits model. They came in two different sizes - about 36" and 48", as I recall. Have we sorted out which size this is? Because the rudder sizes will be different. Though, as I understand it, he already has the original rudder blade....
Sizes do not have to be absolutely precise. To replace a 72mm X 52mm rudder, this should be fine - **LINK**
Um? Are you now saying that they are separate (which was what I originally thought)? That is what I meant when I said that the blade might have fallen out of the shaft. A picture of what you have would be useful. Here is a typical model boat rudder - **LINK**
Model boat rudders are usually a brass shaft, about 4mm wide, with a 1mm slot cut in one end. Into this slot, a bit of brass sheet is soldered. This unit is the shaft and blade.
At the other end of the shaft, there is a clamp with an arm on it. This is the tiller. You connect it to the rudder servo using a link.
The rudder shaft runs in a 'shaft tube'. This is a tube going through the bottom of the boat, and fastened securely to the hull so that no water can come in. It can either be bolted on, or glued - the important ting is that it is high enough to stop water seeping up it - so the top end should be above the waterline. This may help - **LINK**
Rudder blades for small boats can just be attached using soft solder. If yours has failed, you will probably see some solder remains on the shaft and the blade. Just reassemble, add a bit of flux and some more solder and heat over a gas ring to reattach.
If the boat is bigger, soft soldering may not be strong enough, and you should use 'hard', or 'silver' solder, with a bit more heat. Alternatively, you can pin the blade, as is done in the links I showed you.
Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 04/08/2017 10:47:28
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