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Member postings for Dodgy Geezer

Here is a list of all the postings Dodgy Geezer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: what props
30/08/2017 12:48:13

If you're talking about the Aeronaut Victoria, the more normal prop is a 2 or 3 blade.

Of course, any prop CAN be used on a boat, and any given prop design can be optimised for a boat/motor combination - but you would usually think of a 2-3 blade, perhaps 40-50mm diameter prop for that. Purely on cost grounds. An 8-bladed prop is going to be unusual, and VERY costly...

Thread: Eezebilt PT Boat
29/08/2017 21:26:47

My, you can get a lot more detail on the boat at that scale!

Have you found the hull strong enough? I have never put a 1/16 ply skin on one of these boats, and am wondering how it turned out?

Thread: Home-made semi-automatic morse key
27/08/2017 08:43:09
Now that's something you don't get to see very often...

Isn't human ingenuity wonderful?
Thread: Leak at rudder tubes
24/08/2017 13:25:40

I find two common issues with rudder tubes - which does not mean that either of these are applicable in this situation, of course.

1 - the point where the tube exits is not a flat surface. Typically, if the 'V' of the hull flattens towards the transom, there is usually a slight 'V' at the point where the rudder is.

2 - the rudder tube is only secured at the base of the tube, while the tiller provides sideways forces at an inch or three above this. If there is a thick keel this can be OK - if not the base of the tube will tend to flex under load and eventually leak.

I usually address these issues by making a flat at the rudder exit and epoxying a washer in there, and providing support half-way up the tube. Easier to do if you're not using a made-up rudder with a screw fitting....

Thread: Running time of batteries
22/08/2017 07:30:46

There is quite a bit about the Volantex Blade on the Web - it seems to be quite a favourite boat. Here is an Australian experiencing what looks like the same problem that you did - **LINK**

Luckily spare shafts do not seem to be expensive - **LINK**

Here is a thread with some discussion of racing modifications to the Blade - **LINK**

21/08/2017 21:34:32

Well.... the documentation says:

"Maintenance

Always replace the flexshaft when it is damaged or shows visible wear or injury and property damage may result. Lubricating the flexshaft is vital to the life of the drivetrain. The lubricant also acts as a water seal, keeping water from entering the hull through the stuffing box. Lubricate the flexshaft, propeller shaft and all moving parts after every 2–3 hours of operation. Always replace any parts that show visible wear or damage.

1. Loosen the coupling between the motor and the flexshaft.

2. Loosen the setscrew from the flexshaft and remove the flexshaft from the back of the boat. Tip: Use paper or cloth to touch the flexshaft.

3. Remove the drive shaft by sliding it out of the stuffing box. Wipe lubricant and material from the flexshaft. Lubricate the full length of the flexshaft assembly up to the drive dog using marine grease.

4. Apply threadlock to the coupling setscrew. Threadlock will help prevent the flexshaft from loosening during use.

5. Carefully reinstall the drive shaft, ensuring that there is a 1–2mm gap between the prop strut and the drive dog to allow for flexshaft shrinkage under load."

and

Check lists

...

After Boating

.....

• Lubricate the flex shaft

Racing boats are high performance items, and operate at the limits of their material strength. They need looking after. Of course, with just a picture showing your propeller missing, I can't be exactly sure of what has happened. Your local club colleagues will be able to inspect the boat and be much more precise with their diagnosis...were you running with 2 or 3 cells?

 

 

 

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 21/08/2017 21:36:27

21/08/2017 21:19:03
It looks as if you have a broken propshaft. Did you read the maintenance directions regarding lubrication, and use of loctight on the grub screws?

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 21/08/2017 21:19:36

21/08/2017 19:09:10

In that case I hope the link I provided will be of use. It may not be for your precise model - I did not look too hard on the web for it, and I guess that there are manual downloads or help pages somewhere on the manufacturers web site - **LINK** but it's a manual for a similar boat in their range, so a lot of the advice - perhaps all of it - is going to be of value.

I might direct your attention specifically to the Safety and Maintenance pages, which should always be read and understood before operating a machine....

21/08/2017 14:49:57

This appears to be the manual for your boat. Is it? **LINK**

It contains the following paras:

"The included ESC features a ‘soft’ low voltage cutoff ( LVC ) that smoothly reduces power to the motor (regardless of the power level you have set with the throttle stick) to let you know the voltage of the battery is close to the 6.0V minimum.

However, even before this reduction in power , if you find that more than the typical amount of throttle/ power is required to cruise or climb you should land the model and disconnect the battery immediately to prevent over-discharge. And while it is possible to continue running the model after the soft LVC occurs, this is NOT recommended. Continued discharging can result in reaching the 5.0V ‘hard’ LVC which may cause permanent damage to the LiPo battery resulting in reduced power and flight duration during subsequent fights ( or failure of the battery entirely which is not covered under warranty). Also, it is not recommended that you run to the soft LVC every time you run. Instead you should be aware of the power level of the battery through out, and if at any time the boat begins to require more throttle/ power than typical to maintain speed you should let the boat run back and disconnect the LiPo battery immediately. Constantly discharging the battery to the soft LVC can still cause permanent damage to the battery so it’s best to use a timer or stop-watch to time the duration of your running and to stop flying at a reasonable time before the soft LVC is reached."

21/08/2017 13:31:16

To extend DM's comments a little more - this is a 'ready-to-run' racing boat, so it probably won't be pottering around the lake at all. Battery time calculations are never going to be precise to the minute, so the shop's estimate of 1/4 hour or 1/2 hour are, I think, well estimated with 12 minutes and 26 minutes to when you first feel loss of power.

You have already found out that if you leave a battery for a while it will recover slightly. Running at less than full power, as DM points out, will increase run time - sometimes quite substantially.

Racing boat clubs tend to have a 'rescue boat' ready to recover stranded boats - either a rowboat with a person in or a small model with a 'scoop' at the front.. You will also find that it is beneficial to run on the leeward side of the lake (with the wind blowing towards you) so that any time required to drift in is lowered.

A major use of power meters is to determine efficiency of the motor/prop combination you have in your boat. Since you have an RTR boat, all this will have been optimised by the manufacturer, so you don't really need to do it yourself. You would only really need a power meter if you were going to re-engine or re-prop the boat.

This is a good example of what I was saying earlier - the club people at the lakeside are the first people you should be getting advice from. They would see instantly that you had an RTR boat - we have been giving advice based on general hobby boats you build yourself...

21/08/2017 09:03:56

There are lots of instruction manuals on the web.

Here is a simple one - **LINK**

Here is a more complicated one **LINK**

20/08/2017 20:21:06

Being with a club helps - they should be the first people to turn to. We can only work at a distance, so we can easily miss something that might be apparent if we were on the spot.

1 - your shop seems to have given you quite accurate advice. You can never be precise to the second about when a battery will go. Note that as they wear they will hold power for a shorter and shorter time...

2 - you really have to look at your ESC manual. If you haven;t got one you can probably find one on the net.

3 - I don't know the device you have linked to - but I don't think it is a power meter. I think it is simply a volt meter, and will tell you what the voltage is for your battery. The power meters I linked to earlier will read volts and amps, display them with total watts, and store the maximum amp drain automatically during a run, so you can read out the peak and average power your boat drained from the battery after you have brought it in. Armed with this information you can calculate just how long a run you can get, and how much you can extend this if you cut back on the throttle a bit...

This is an example of one on Amazon...https://www.amazon.co.uk/T-Trees-Meter-Analyzer-Backlight-Precision/dp/B0177T09PC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503256919&sr=1-1&keywords=watt+meter

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 20/08/2017 20:22:52

Thread: Simple start.
20/08/2017 18:09:47
Posted by Brian Dickinson 1 on 19/08/2017 17:24:28:

Thank you for the advice. Will different makes of servo work with different make of receiver? I have not bought my radio yet

Brian

Short answer - yes. Servos should have 3 wires :

Red or light colour - DC+ (in the middle of the of the plug)

Black or dark colour - DC- (at one end of the plug)

Buff, White or neutral colour - Signal (at other end of plug)

The servo needs to be plugged in the right way round to make it work, but plugging it in the wrong way round should not damage anything. It just won't work that way around...

Thread: Running time of batteries
19/08/2017 21:32:05

if you have a 'smart' charger - say, the IMax - you can set it to discharge at a specified rate as well as charging. That will then tell you how long your battery will last with a specified drain.

You can also get a cheap Watt Meter, such as this: **LINK** which will tell you how much power your motor is using while it is on the water. Armed with those tools you should have a pretty clear idea of how long your batteries will run for.

The web is also full of simple little low battery warning circuits - eg - **LINK**

Thread: Victory Industries Vosper R.A.F. Crash Tender
15/08/2017 15:13:45

Mine measures at .050". Around 1.27mm. It will be an Imperial measurement. But these old plastic boats distort with age - so I can't be sure of your size. You are better off bringing the boat to the shop, finding the nearest size up, and then either sanding a little bit off the aerial or drilling the hole out to match...  Shame that these boats are so difficult to convert to radio control...

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 15/08/2017 15:20:08

15/08/2017 14:27:51

Rubber bands do stretch quite a lot! They usually come in assorted sizes, you need a pack which has a variety including 1" diameter to 1.5" diameter. That would be a band between 1.5" and 2.5" long when the band is squashed flat.  That should cost £1 or less.

The discrepancy in pulley sections is odd, but it is correct - I have both the Vosper Crash Tender and the Vosper triple-screw Express yacht in that series, and they both have the flat pulley on the prop-shaft. I might guess that this simply what could be obtained at that time...but it might also mean that alignment is not critical, allowing the prop-shaft to move backwards and forwards without the band coming off...

Rubber bands are square section. Use a square band - not a flat one, so that it can fit in the Mighty Midget drive pulley. Then run the boat for a bit while observing the drive to make sure that it stays on while running. With a cheap assortment pack you can chose the best size, and then buy a more expensive one at the best size if that is what you want...

 

 

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 15/08/2017 14:34:28

15/08/2017 11:33:55

Use a rubber band. As I recall from the 1960s, that's what was used then.

Thread: Simplas Marine Construction
15/08/2017 11:32:34

If you would like the plans to be remembered and available to people rather than forgotten, I have a web site where I publish plans of old model boats from manufacturers who have disappeared.

if you can scan it - even in sections - and send it to me, I can reassemble it and put it up on **LINK**

Thread: Leaking hull
14/08/2017 18:24:57

If you use a resin like Z-Poxy, which is intended for painting on, it should creep into the gaps in the seams and glue/seal them effectively. A coat inside and outside would certainly make the boat watertight...

Edited By Dodgy Geezer on 14/08/2017 18:25:17

14/08/2017 15:26:22

Gaps can be hard to spot, and may not be on a seam. Really, you are better off to find out precisely where the problem is before undertaking a large amount of work...

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