|David Marks 1||01/03/2011 15:43:19|
|183 forum posts|
I would appreciate some help with the wiring of an Electronize Speed Controller - Type FR12X. I can understand the requirements to connect the Controller to both the Battery (2 X 6V) to be connected in Parallel and to the Motor. However, how do I connect the thin leads to the Receiver i.e. the White (Signal) lead, which has a plastic connector attached and the Red +ve and Black -ve leads which just have a single crimped metai connector
The receiver is a Futaba R152JE (2 channel) with three connections: Ch1, Ch2 and Batt.
Finally, how about the Antenna lead and should this be connected to a dedicated ariel? I have seen ariels advertised on model shop websites and also seen where modellers have made an ariel from a length of brass wire or piano wire. My model isa Springer Tug.
|Tony Burton||01/03/2011 19:07:51|
133 forum posts
the red black and white leads should be connected to a plug that woud push staight into your receiver. What you need to do is get an extension lead for your Futaba receiver and conect it to your speed controller wires
Hope this helps
I never use an arial I always lay the existing ariel up to the deck somewhere
|ashley needham||01/03/2011 21:42:44|
5012 forum posts
David. I have some boats where the receiver wire alone is run horizontally in the ship under the deck/whatever and this works fine, but others seem to require a seperate ariel, mine are about 9 inches long normally...so I cut off 9"or receiver wire to compensate and keep the overall length the same.
It does seem to depend on how high the wire is off the surface of the water and also how far you want to go. As to how high the ariel has to be I dont know..as i say all mine are roughly the same length, but i am thinking that they could be a bit shorter to the same effect...
For your tug I should think you could hide an ariel in one of the funnels assuming it has some or even in a lighting mast, or EVEN it may simply need a little bit vertically in the superstructure. Suck it and see..the receiver wire can be lead inside a thin plastic tube to keep it straight and then you can experiment.
Tony as above says he never uses a seperate ariel, and this works for him.. I dare say others use a mix of do and dont
|JC Uknz||22/03/2011 07:30:33|
141 forum posts
Strictly speaking you should hold your transmitter with its aerial vertical and the grey wire likewise and it could wind around a mast or fit into a slot in the mast. This is basic VHF. But if operating on a small pond currently my aerial is running along the deck horizontally below the bulwark. On a previous incarnation [ different superstructure on my versatile hull ] I had a scale whip aerial up from the bridge with a connector to the grey wire which stayed inside the superstructure. One other important point, you can increase the areail length but do not cut and reduce it to be 'neat'
|David Marks 1||29/03/2011 20:48:03|
|183 forum posts|
Thanks to everyone for the help with my original enquiry on 1 March.
My Springer Tug is far from finished but had a sucessful trial on the garden pond last week. I have also joined the local model boat club and attended their first sailing of the year on Sunday. The Springer went very well with no leaks, but I finally lost drive, which turned out to be a blown fuse protecting the speed controller.
I now have sufficient confidence in the build to enable me to screw down the deck, complete the building and then commence the painting.
I followed some articles by Dave Brumstead re. the Springer build and Dave based the superstructure on a model of a Motorflote. I obtained a copy of the Model Boats magazine which featured a build of a Motorflote and a free plan. In addition to the Springer, I now have a Motorflote under construction.
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