Water Cooling Intake Pipework.

The geometry of the system.

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Rick Devonshire07/02/2010 08:10:27
112 forum posts
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Having tried it in the past with less than satisfactory results I am about to install the water cooling intake pipes on my latest model ( a twin screw crash tender)and seek some advice on the following:-
1/ What diameter of pipe is it best to use for the intake?
 2/ How far back from the prop disk is it best to locate the intake end of the pipe?
3/ At what height with respect to the disk of the prop and on the rising or falling curve of the blade?
4/ What diameter of silicon tubing is it best to use to connect to the cooling coil round the motor?
(I would appreciate informatiom from those who have actually successfully installed this feature please).
Rick. 
The Fat Controller07/02/2010 10:02:37
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1876 forum posts
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Hi Rick
 
In answer to your main question.
 
The last time I installed a water cooling system I used 15mm copper pipe, the intake positioned 0.545mm from the top curve of the 80mm 4 bladed prop, the scoop was made from a 15mm end feed copper elbow (plumbing fitting) cut at a 110deg chord across the x axis.
The silicon tubing was difficult to find at 15mm i/d so I used 12mm soft copper tube and coiled this around the motor can.
 
Big in'it
 
Regarding your last point are you hinting that some members talk bo**ocks.
 
Paul
 
Rick Devonshire08/02/2010 17:24:59
112 forum posts
14 photos
Thanks Paul,
Your method is interesting, I expect you were scooping up quite a large quantity of water. I had never considered such a size of tubing.
Your is the only reply, does this mean very few have infact managed to get this method to work succsefully or has my last line miffed many of the usual contributers? eek! !!
Rick.
 
The Fat Controller08/02/2010 20:47:20
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1876 forum posts
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2 articles
Hi Rick
 
Have a look at Cornwall Model Boats
Its full of goodies that might help you decide.
 
Perhaps you did upset some folk after all.
 
Paul
Len Ochiltree09/02/2010 07:38:29
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458 forum posts
53 photos
Not me, I have never cooked a motor so have not needed a cooler.
 
   Cool  Len
michael kemish09/02/2010 08:04:15
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55 forum posts
6 photos
Hi, have you thought of using a water pump for the set-up?
I read somewhere that a windscreen washer pump can work, and also that a fuel pump off (I think) a model aeroplane can work.
I admit I hav'nt tried either, yet,
My Matilda may need cooling, I'll wait and see after sea trials.
I'd like to know how you go.
Mick
 
 
Rick Devonshire09/02/2010 11:18:10
112 forum posts
14 photos
Hi Michael,
Actually I am not too sure what to do. Westbourne Models, who supplied me with the motors, (Graupner Speed 600-Ecos) say I probably don't need water cooling as they are very efficient power units so I think initially I might just ensure plenty of ventilation in the motor area and see how things go.
I have the cooling coils to fit if necessary but would like some guidance on the location and shape of the pick-up scoops just in case. Corwall Model Boats sell a number of pickup alternatives and sizes of plastic tubing to link them up. It is  worth having a look at their web site mentioned above.
On the subject of fitting pumps I am trying to ensure the weight of the craft is kept in check to ensure a lively performance.
Rick.
 
 
 
 

Edited By Rick Devonshire on 09/02/2010 11:19:31

michael kemish10/02/2010 07:08:04
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55 forum posts
6 photos
Hi Rick,
I would tend to go with the experts who have been down this road before.
Like my work collegue said today, "Don't have a heart attack over things that might not happen!"
If the motors get hot, retro-fit cooling, (just another chaleng in scratch build!)
 If not, don't.
That's my theory.
Mick
 
Bob Abell10/02/2010 07:59:23
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1995 forum posts
596 photos
Hi Rick
 
Not one of my 15 powered models have water cooling....... Never had a problem with any of them
 
But my latest will probably be fitted with water coils..............big motors running on 24 v......Don`t fancy it though
 
Bob
Dave Milbourn10/02/2010 08:52:25
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214 forum posts
6 photos
Washer-pump motors are seldom rated for continuous running, chaps. You'd really need something like a peristaltic job, and they are EXPENSIVE. For instance, have a look here:
 
Glad to see you're having second thoughts about those aluminium paddles, Bob. I was beginning to have nightmares about 'em!
 
Rick - 3/16" bore flexible tubing should do the job of connecting the cooling coils to the inlet and outlet. You can obtain this size in a nice flexible rubber form from pond and aquarium suppliers. Keep the pipe from the cooling coil to the outlet as short as possible (best exit through the side of the hull, not the transom).
 
DM

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