Pet niggles

Just a pet niggle of mine......

 

If the motor manufactures had any common sense, they would have made the motor base 1" wider..........Then we could reach the screws easily!

 

I would also like to see the shaft protrude at the back end..........Would be handy for ganging up?

 

What`s your pet niggle?

 

Bob

I have found this too Bob. Removing a motor becomes like a chinese puzzle where you have to think three moves ahead- especially in the confines of a smaller hull. I am going to have a go at making the mounts for my next boat to accommodate this and watercooling coil problems.

I see you got round it by making another wooden mount. Cunning!

 

Ian

Hey Guys,

 

 My first post on a modelling forum so please chastise where justified.

All motor bases unless flange mounted are no larger than the overall dia of motor.

Thats my experience with motors up to 3.3kv motors. No problem when fixing with 30mm bolts.

Have you considered using BA bolts cut to length, then mounted up through bed.

you will be able to tighten nuts much easier than using a screwdriver.

As stated granny and eggs spring to mind, but only trying to help.

 

Rob 

 

I got roud this problem with a flexible blade fitted to my scewdriver. It was from a multi-bladed screwdriver kit purchased in Maplins.

Rick.

Another niggle - I would like to see an earthing screw fitted to the commutator end of electric motors to save the unsightly blob of solder when fitting the capacitors.

 

 

It may seem a good idea, Robert, having BA nuts and bolts, but motors are usually fitted in the depths of the hull.

 

So fiddling down below is not convenient........We need clear, easy, vertical access

 

Bob

What is wrong with the solution displayed in the first post of this thread?     If the base is too small for you, bolt it onto a bigger piece of metal plate with countersunk bolts through the bottom and drill new mounting holes in it!

Bob

i always make my own motor mounts i just go to our local iron mongers and buy a cpl of off cutts for the price of a cuppa tea, then drill bend etc to fit, my last 4 mounts have cost me 50p and a little time.

See your point Bob. I thought perhaps epoxying the bolts in place, but then if for some reason you uprate the motor with a different frame size that would cause problems.

 

Rob 

I am afraid that Ron has it, making new mounts is the easiest way round it. if you have to go to the trouble of special mounting plates and wot not, you may just as well make a new mount in the first place. I must say that I normally use a clamp arrangement for my motors avoiding this problem. Oddly enough i had to remove the motor to fit water cooling on the Seahawk, wot used the standard mount and only just managed it by removing the motor first whith the front screws, ...HOWEVER..when replacing the motor i used cap head screws at the front and it was much easier to put back in. An allen key will hold a capped screw on its end , and the bend of the key means you can get to the screw directly underneath the shaft no probs.

 

Ashley

 

 

Well that just prooves the point I was making!

 

Why should we have to make our own mounts or even mess about with them?

 

Bob